• Some toppled maoi and top knots
      Rano RarakuAn maoi in progress, this one would have been 22 meters tall.A view of Ahu Tongariki from the volcanoAhu TongarikiEnjoying the polynesian beachAhu Nau NauMy wheelsThis is where I sat and watched the eclipse. All of my photos of the eclipse were too blurry!

      Easter Island part 2

      30 de septiembre de 2024, Chile ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

      Next I explored the southern side of the island where Rano Raraku is, the quarry on the side of a volcano where the maoi are made. If you've ever seen the iconic pictures of the head of a maoi sticking out of a lush green hill, this is where that was taken. There are still dozens of maoi that had been completed and abandoned on the side of the volcano, in addition to multiple partially completed maoi still carved into the rock. The largest maoi made was 22 meters tall, and is still attached to the volcano. Wandering around this quarry was truly a "pinch me" moment, I couldn't belive I was actually there.

      I also hired a car to visit some of the other famous sites on the south and east side of the island. First up I visited Ahu Tongariki for sunrise, the largest restored site on the island with 15 maoi. Ahu Tongariki is supposedly the place where the rapa nui people first touched ground when they discovered the island. Although all of the maoi were already toppled, this site experienced further destruction in 1960 from a large tsunami caused by the largest earthquake ever recorded on mainland Chile at 9.5 on the richter scale. The site was reconsrtucted with the aid if the Japanese to restore it to its original glory. Next up I visited Ahu Nau Nau, which is by the only sandy beach on the island and a beautiful spot to chill and enjoy the scenery. The maoi here are wearing top knots, which indicates that the ancestors represented here are from a more high ranking clan.

      Towards the end of my time on Rapa Nui I was lucky enough to see a solar eclipse. It was an annular eclipse, which means that the moon is a bit further away than it is during a total eclipse, and when the moon is directly in front of the sun you can still see a "ring of fire" around the moon. You can't look directly at this type of eclipse with the naked eye, so unlike when I saw an eclipse in Mexico, this time I remembered to buy some polarized eclipse glasses to watch it! I went over to the maoi just outside of town and watched the eclipse unfold with all of the locals, eclipse chasers and stray dogs!
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    • Moai head outside by hostel
      Chilling at the hostelA moai in townAn interesting cemeterySome good sav blanc by the seaAku AkiviLooking out to seaThe top knot factoryA moai head engulfed by the groundA restored stone house in OrongoA view from Orongo, with some petroglyphsRano Kau volcanoWatching a beautiful sunset from the hostelTurtles in the bayHorses chilling with the moai

      Easter Island part 1

      26 de septiembre de 2024, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      My next destination was Easter Island, a real bucket list item for me. Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as it is now called, is one of the most remote inhabited islands on Earth. It was inhabited by the Polynesians around 800 AD. After a 6 hour flight from Santiago I landed in a tiny airport in the small town of Hanga Roa. I was staying in an amazing hostel right by the sea, where I could sit outside and watch sunset. The town was small and chilled, with hardly any traffic and with original moai dotted around.

      Moai are the stone statues that Easter Island is famous for. There are 887 statues that were carved from 1100 to 1680. Each moai represents a deceased leader of a tribe on the island, and they were created as a form of ancestor worship. They typically face inland to symbolise that they watch over their tribe. One of the exceptions is the site of Ahu Akivi, where 7 moai face the sea, supposedly to help sailors navigate to the island. According to legend the Polynesian king dreamt of Rapa Nui, and sent scouts to look for it. When they found the island, 7 of the scouts stayed behind awaited the arrival of the king. The moai at Ahu Akivi are meant to respesnt these scouts. They also have an astrological purpose, as they exactly face sunset during spring equinox.

      Exploring the island is facinating as you see many moai in various states of repair. All of the moai had fallen down, and conservation efforts are gradually restoring many of them to their original glory. There are also other important archeological sites to see such as old villages made of stone, and the area where the top knots that some of the moai wear are quarried and carved.

      I also visited Orongo, an old village on the rim of the extinct Rano Kau volcano where the tangata manu, or bird man ritual took place. Leaders on the island would each sponsor a strong man to race to an island off the coast of Rapa Nui to collect an egg from a type of sea bird called a sooty tern, swim back with it and climb a sheer cliff with the egg still intact. The leader of the winner would then shave their hair and be declared tangata manu, a sacred person that lives in a ceremonial house, receives food and gifts, and doesn't have to do anything other than eat and sleep for the next year.

      Aside from visiting these interesting places, I enjoyed the town of Hanga Roa which included watching the turtles in the bay, watching sunset with the horses, stray dogs, and moai, and trying some of the excellent Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and incredibly fresh ceviche.
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    • Interesting rock formations in the Valley of the Moon, apparently they look like three praying women
      Some luna like landscapes in the Valley of the MoonVolcanoSunset pisco sours and snacksStray dogs being cared for in ChileSome of the cool street art in VicuñaPisco distilleryOne of the telescopes in the observatory, although not the one we usedA terrible photo of the stars, the camera can't even begin to capture the viewPisco Elqui

      Northern Chile

      18 de septiembre de 2024, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      I made it to San Pedro de Atacama in northern Chile just in time for Independence Day. The whole of September is a time for celebration in Chile with the streets being lined with flags, but on September the 18th there are parades, fireworks, and big parties in the street that go on all night! From San Pedro I went on a trip into the Atacama Desert to see Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon. The Valley of the Moon is a part of the Atacama Desert with unusual other worldly landscapes that have been formed by wind and water. We stopped to look at various interesting rocks and landscapes, and then found a beautiful place to watch the sun set while we had some pisco sours and snacks.

      With a lot of distance to cover in South America I had to press on, so I jumped on a 14 hour night bus over 1000 km to Vicuña, in Elqui Valley. Thankfully the busses in Chile are really nice. Elqui Valley is an excellent wine region, and claims to be the origin of Pisco, although that's hotly contested by Peru. Either way, I thought it was worth visiting a pisco distillery where I thought I was going to get drunk from the fumes of the warehouse! Then I had a tasting, but I still prefer to drink it as a part of a pisco sour! I then hopped on a bus and went to visit Pisco Elqui, a town deeper in the valley with more vinyards and distilleries around. However, due to the national holiday most things were still closed, so I just made do with wandering around the picturesque town and then found somewhere to drink some of the wine!

      Northern Chile is one of the best places in the world to go stargazing because of the clear skies, low humidity and low light pollution. So I headed off to an observatory 40 minutes into the mountains. Even without the telescope the view of the stars was the best I'd seen, I've never seen so many stars in the sky before, and there was a perfect view of the milky way. The astrologers used the 25 inch diameter telescope to show us venus, saturn and its moons, binary star systems millions of light years away, and nebula where stars are formed. They also pointed out features in the sky like constellations, distant galaxies, and the centre of our galaxy.

      The rest of my time in Vicuña was spent wandering the streets looking for cool street art! Vicuña was also the place where I experienced my third and strongest earthquake. I could hear it before I could feel it, before I realised what was happening I thought that large trucks were driving down the street, then suddenly it sounded and felt like a freight train was about to drive through the building. Freaked out I went outside to see what was going on just to see one other Chilean women disinterestedly glancing out of the window. After a few seconds the shaking lessened but I could still hear it passing through the valley, followed by every dog in the valley barking their heads off! When I looked it up it was apparently 5.2 on the richter scale, and in Chile anything less than 6 is considered a mere tremor. But it seemed pretty big to me!
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    • A disused railway heading from the mines to the sea, which is now in Chile.
      One of the many beautiful lakesVicuñasVicacha

      Southern Bolivia

      15 de septiembre de 2024, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ -2 °C

      Our ultimate destination at the end of the road trip was Chile, and we still had a long way to go to get there! So the day after the salt flat was spent driving, but luckily we were driving through some of the most beautiful scenery that I've seen. We made our way through desert and mountains, all at about 3600 to 4000 meters high, so it was absolutely freezing! Even so, we stopped frequently at the many lakes we passed, all covered with flamingoes. Each lake seemed to be a different colour, from blue, to green, to pink. We saw interesting rock formations, colourful mountains, volcanoes, and disused railways. We also saw some of the local wildlife such as alpacas, desert foxes, vicuñas, and vicachas, rabbit like rodents that hop about on their hind legs like kangaroos.

      After spending the night in a freezing hotel with only hot water bottles for heat, we got up before dawn to make our way to Chile. En route we stopped at some geysers, where steam was escaping from the ground at high pressure, or bubbling up through syrupy mud. They allowed you to get pretty close to them, which didn't seem too safe but that's Bolivia for you! I was quite glad when we left to go to our last stop in Bolivia, a hot spring. I didn't fancy getting out of the water into the freezing air, so I just dangled my legs in and enjoyed the sun and steam warming me up. Finally we headed to the border with Chile where we were heading onto San Pedro de Atacama.
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    • Train graveyard
      The flag island left by travellersFound a Welsh flag slightly worse for wearAmd then I found one in better condition!Trick photographyAnd our driver taking the photosThe salt hotel

      Salar de Uyuni

      14 de septiembre de 2024, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      After an overnight bus I ended up in the town of Uyuni in southern Bolivia. Uyuni is the access point to Salar de Uyuni, the worlds largest salt flat. In Uyuni I met up with 5 other travellers to tour this region of Bolivia for a couple of days in a 4X4. On the first morning we headed off, we stopped at a train graveyard. In the 19th century Uyuni was an important transport hub because of the mining industry, and many trains were imported from Britain. But the collapse of the mining industry in the 1940's led to the trains being abandoned here, where they still lie slowly crumbling away.

      Then we continued on into the salt flat. Every year the salt flat floods, which leads to a stunning mirror like effect. Most of the water had evaporated at the time we were there but it was still an incredible site, seeing the glass like effect as far as you could see. Then we kept driving for miles before stopping at a dry section of the salt flat. This part was even more interesting for me, where you could see the distinctive pattern of the dried up lake that stretched as far as you could see. Because the landscape is so flat with no reference points, the area is great for taking trick photos, so of course we spent ages posing for stupid photos that our driver directed us all for!

      Every now and then there is a small island in the salt. We climed one which was particularly beautiful because of the cactuses on the island, which appeared to glow in the setting sun. We continued driving before stopping to watch sunset, which was of course beautiful. Then we kept driving until we had exited the other side of the salt flat, where we stayed in a hotel made from salt!
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    • The witches market of central La PazCalle Jaen - a well preserved colonial streetLa Paz CathedralThe cemeteryA ride on the telefericosStray dogs are well taken care ofHaving my fortune read using coca leavesWitches market of El AltoThe colourful buses of La Paz

      La Paz

      8 de septiembre de 2024, Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Next up was La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. La Paz is located in a canyon 3600 - 4100 meters up. When navigating the steep streets I quickly learnt to take it slow like the locals do! La Paz was founded by the Spanish in 1548 so it has the usual collection of impressive colonial architecture including a metropolitan cathedral, churches, and plazas. But much more fascinating was the local indigenous culture which is still very strong in the area. It didn't take long for me to stumble across the witches market, where witch doctors sell various herbs and amulets as well as llama foetuses of various sizes for use in protection spells. This was a facinating place to explore, and nearby was one of the main tourist streets that was full of beautiful alpaca wool products that I unfortunately just didn't have the room for! Maybe next time...

      Exploring more of La Paz I visited the
      Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore (Ethnography Museum). Bolivia is a very varied country in geography, climate, and culture, which the museum have an good overview on with their extensive collection of ritual masks. Some were pretty freaky! Next I headed to Calle Jaen, or Jaen Street, which is a very well preserved colonial street from the 18th century. I also visited the huge cemetery, where people rent plots in the walls for loved ones coffins to be stored in, with well kept murals to honour them. The cemetery was beautiful set amongst the towering hills of the city and teleféricos hovering overhead. There were dozens of murals covering the unused walls which just added to the beauty of the area.

      As La Paz is so steep, the best way to get around is by the network of cablecars, the teleféricos. There is quite a strong socioeconomic divide between the more affluent central La Paz and the heights of El Alto at the top of the canyon. The teleférico has reduced the commute from El Alto to central La Paz from 1 hour to 10 minutes, which has benefited the residents of El Alto and reduced pollution in the city. The pollution was still pretty bad so I can only imagine what it was like before!

      I took a teleférico up to El Alto to check out the huge market up there. The market had everything you could imagine, including another extensive witches market with even more crazy produce! While there I had my fortune told using coca leaves. It cost about 10 bolivianos, which is about £1. I sat in a little shed while this witch doctor threw coca leaved around and interpreted my future from them. He didn't really say anything interesting, but for £1 I wasn't really expecting much!
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    • Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca
      A ruined chullpasPuno CathedralTrout from Lake TiticacaSunset at Lake TiticacaTemple of the Virgins of the SunIsla del SolIncan ruins on Island of the SunA sacraficial tableTerraced hills on Isla del SolTrout pens in the lake, lunch can't get fresher!Arriving back to CopacabanaCopacabana cathedralLocal band with some tunes

      Lake Titicaca

      4 de septiembre de 2024, Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      My final stop in Peru was Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is one of the highest great lakes in the world at 3813 metres above sea level. When I arrived in Puno I went to visit the nearby Sillustani, a pre-Incan cemetery. The tombs are tower like structures called chullpas, which house entire families.

      Saying goodbye to Peru I crossed the border to Copacabana in Bolivia. From Copacabana I visited Isla de la Luna and Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca. I sat on the roof of the boat as we headed off towards the islands, through the crystal clear water and past the beautiful terraced mountains.

      Isla de la Luna, or Moon Island, is a small island home to only around 80 people. On the island is the Temple of the Virgins of the Sun. Not much is known about the ruins, but they are assumed to be Incan, and a type of convent for women worshiping the sun. It was quite beautiful perched on the hill overlooking the lake.

      Isla del Sol, or Island of the Sun, according to Incan lore is the birthplace of the sun god, and of the first two Incan people. The island is home to over 80 Incan ruins from the 15th century. I explored the north side of the island where there were the ruins of a labyrinth like palance, and what is assumed to be a sacraficial table where animal and human sacrifices took place.

      Back in Copacabana I enjoyed the local scenery and watched the sun appear to disappear into the lake at sunset. You can understand how the Incans believed that that is where the sun is born! I also had some of the delicious lake trout, where you could get a huge plate of food for about £3. Then I wandered around the town where there was a lively band playing some awesome tunes!
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    • Sunrise on the Madre de Dios River
      Registering our entry into the Manu Reserve ZoneTurtles sunbathing on the logsCapybarasInteresting fungi on the night walkA foggy start on the riverHiking through the jungle to the ox-bow lakeEarly moring sun on the ox-bow lakeParakeets at the clay lickA wild peccaryGiant river ottersSunset on the ox-bow lakeA rare frogNavigating the river by night

      Amazon Rainforest 2

      29 de agosto de 2024, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Just as the sun was rising we left the lodge and continued down the Madre de Dios River until it met the Manu River, where we headed upstream. It was a long day on the boat with no stops, breakfast and lunch were both taken on the boat. After the little sleep we had the night before I really struggled to stay awake on this leg! However, I still managed to see capybaras, turtles, crocodiles, and countless birds including cormorants, herons, and kingfishers.

      The basin of the Manu River is a reserve zone with limited tourism allowed to preserve the pristine rainforest. We were staying for two nights in a lodge in this zone. At the lodge after a rest and dinner, we took a guided night walk, where we saw frogs, lizards, insects, spiders, and a tarantula. In the morning we headed out early to take a trip on an ox-bow lake where we were hoping to see some giant river otters. On that trip we didn't get to see them, I guess they were still sleeping in their nests. Still, the scenery was beautiful in the early morning light, and as the boat was being maneuvered by pole it was very peaceful. As always we also saw some many more interesting birds.

      In the afternoon we hiked to another clay lick, this time to try to see macaws! Macaws in the wild are very cautious of humans and also very intelligent, so you have to be very careful if you want to see them. As we got closer to the clay lick we could hear them calling, so we silently crept to the hideout. As we got there there was one red macaw up in a tree, but it quickly flew into the thick canopy. But we could still hear them in the trees above us, so we knew that we hadn't scared them away. We waited for two hours, but unfortunately we didn't see another macaw, although we did see parakeets which was still cool. We also saw a wild peccary, a type of wild pig, which was very lucky.

      After a break for lunch we headed back to the ox-bow lake for another chance at seeing the giant river otters, and this time we were much luckier and got to see a family playing on the shore. We stayed on the lake until sunset, seeing more birds such as hawks, eagles, and even an osprey flying with a fish.

      We hiked back to the river in the dark and saw some more interesting spikers and frogs, including one that even the guide was excited to see because it was rare. The next two days we had to repeat the long trip back to Madre de Dios River, and then to the boat port, seeing yet more caimans, birds, and capybaras. We almost saw a jaguar, one of the boat crew saw it but by the time he could point it out it had run off into the jungle! We also saw macaws flying overhead, always in pairs, and always distinctive by their constant cawing.
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    • Above the clouds
      A traditional andean town en route to the AmazonQuetzalToucanetCock of the RockCapuchin monkeysKing vulturesGreat potooEmerald tree boaLunch on the boatOur basic hide out for the nightTapirHiking through the Amazon at 3amOur guide leading the way

      Amazon Rainforest 1

      27 de agosto de 2024, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Despite being high up in the Andes, Cusco is a great place to see the Amazon from due to its proximity to Manu National Park, and that's where I was headed for a 7 day excursion. Leaving Cusco, you keep driving up and over the peaks of the Andes. You enter the park at around 4100 metres above sea level, then keep descending down through cloud forest and eventually rainforest until you are in the Amazon basin, at around 350 metres above sea level.

      Heading through the cloud forest we saw all sorts of interesting birds, such as hawks, toucanets, well camouflaged potoos, a quetzal, and the unique looking Cock of the Rocks, which is the national bird of Peru. We also saw many butterflies and some capuchin monkeys. As we reached the rainforest we also saw hummingbirds, toucans, vultures, and a beautiful Emerald Tree Boa.

      We spent a night in a lodge before heading off again to the boat dock, where we transferred to a lancha with all of our provisions for the next few days. We travelled down the Madre de Dios river, one of the many tributaries of the Amazon River. Passing beautiful scenery and many birds, we finally reached another lodge where we were welcomed by more monkeys.

      We weren't actually going to get to sleep at this comfortable looking lodge, we just stopped for dinner and a rest before hiking for an hour into the jungle at dusk. This night we were going to be staying in a simple lookout next to a clay lick. Many of the animals eat and lick areas of exposed clay in the jungle for the nutrients, and these can be excellent places to spot wilflife. At this particular clay lick we were hoping to spot tapirs. As the tapirs are very elusive and can take a long time to appear, if at all, we were going to take it in turn to keep watch while everyone else got some sleep. So we watched out over the clay and every 30 minutes woke up the next person along for their turn, not seeing much more than a deer for the first few hours. I had just finished my look-out shift when Alex, the guy next to me nudged me awake to alert that a tapir had finally appeared! I woke up the person Jess on my other side and so on. The tapir is an unusual animal with a stubby trunk, we were very lucky to see it! Having seen one we all went to sleep until 3:30 am, when we had to get up, pack our camp away and hike back to the lodge in the dark, with just enough time to have a shower before getting back in the boat for our long journey up the Manu River.
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    • Cusco Cathedral on the plaza de armasPlaza de ArmasIncan era aqueduct

      Cusco

      24 de agosto de 2024, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Finally I ended up back in Cusco. Cusco was the capital of the Incan empire until the 16th century Spanish conquest. There are still multiple Incan ruins in and around the city, but it is also a bustling city with both Spanish influences with the plaza de armas, cathedral and multiple churches other colonial buildings, as well as modern Andean culture, with a sea of low rise bulidings and streets lined with informal markets. The traffic was also horrendous and Cusco had to have the worst air pollution that I'd experienced in South America, but maybe that was just the altitude sickness speaking!

      It was a beautiful city to explore, with the mountains towering behind the impressive buildings, if a little challenging considering the altitude of 3,400 metres. To get by I just drank the coca and muñeca (a relative of mint) teas, I'm honestly not sure how useful they were for that but they were certainly useful with warming me up during the freezing evenings and nights!
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