Astorga

We got ourselves to the train station early. We had walked around with our backpacks and day bags, and I”m feeling that extra weight in my hips and knees. We both needed a day of rest and recovery.

We just had that strong feeling that it was time to get out of the city and return to the Camino in nature.

I fell asleep on the train immediately, lulled by the rocking and the fields of yellow something going by. We passed many industrial areas, and a wind turbine farm.

My thoughts and dreams turned to my home, my children and how they are (not?) getting along. To my suburban cats who have no predators but the risks of old age (Sophie) and extra flappy flaps (Maeven). To my fortunate and rich life with good friends, good health insurance and a wonderful family.

We passed through the towns along the Camino that take weeks for pilgrims on foot. Logroño, Burgos, Leon. Looking across the flat, dry Meseta, I feel lucky again that we are foregoing this Herculean marathon of walking to fast forward instead to Astorga, where we start the climb back into mountains and eventually into Galicia.

One of the places we are looking forward to is the Iron cross, where pilgrims ascend a very long and steep mountain, then symbolically set down a stone to represent laying down a burden. We both brought stones from home. And what those stones represent may change daily as we continue our Camino.

I am so grateful that I got to study Spanish at such an intense level. I don’t use it much in my daily life at home, but being emerged in it again opens up an inner cache of vocabulary, grammar (remember pluscuamperfecto de subjuntivo?), and dichos I didn’t know that I knew.

Now that we are a week in, with two weeks to go, it’s easier to shift into the rhythm of the day. wake up early (what? Lydia wake up early??) and have whatever breakfast we have set aside from the market before. Hopefully the laundry is dry. Our goal is set out in time to walk with the sunrise.

What I enjoy the most, tho, is monotasking. Being present. Talking with Paul about details of where we are and where we are going, or deeper topics of life, process and introspection. Pausing to listen to the sound of the birds, or the babbling brook, or to take a breather while other pilgrims with their full travel packs pass us.

Astorga turns out to be a beautiful little town with amazing palace and cathedral, nestled into the daily hustle of the community. I’m in awe and humbled.

Paul found us a lovely hotel that costs the same as 2 beds In a hostel. Clean, beautiful, with a little balcony looking over the square, where people are having dinner and connecting well into the evening. Watch the video with sound on.

The bathroom even has dual seating for the closest of couples. JK

Tomorrow we start our walk before the sunrise, and will see these buildings in their predawn glory. We have many hilly days ahead of us. And I’m grateful for it!Read more