Goyán

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul." - John Muir

Day 28 - A Balsa to Outskirts of Sarria - 17km (13.5 + 3.5) - approx 3.5hrs for initial walk

Today was a nature day and I was consumed with the views, the animals and plants I saw along the way.

I left in the dark today at 7:50 am and the first thing I heard was an owl hooting. So beautiful and so haunting. It reminded me that today is the last day before Sarria and that I should drink it all in.

I was worried about walking alone in the dark, as I knew I would be walking in the woods and going uphill. Figured maybe if I could see the hills it may be easier hahaha. As if! All that fear of walking alone in the dark faded fast. Like - within 50ft of my Albergue. I saw an open door on the left with pilgrims milling about. Curious as always, I had a peek. I had stumbled on Art’s Art Gallery. He had only opened a few minutes ago and already he had a full house. Art is an artist, originally from Scotland. That’s all I know - other than the fact that he has this amazing Camino gallery in the middle of bloody nowhere. I purchased a few postcards to send home since they are so unique. And I love supporting the artist himself. After I paid, he gave me a sello (stamp) in my credencial, and then drew an abstract picture for me in there too. As this credencial is on a glossy sort of paper, he was able to do the work with a metallic marker and a bit of paint. I had to wait while it dried, so I didn’t smear all over the place. While I waited, Art asked if he could do a blessing for us. There were 6 of us in the shop at the time and he spoke a blessing over us as pilgrims, to help us on our way. It was actually pretty emotional and I am not even very religious. It just seemed “right” at the time.

I knew I would regret not buying one of the larger prints so I asked if he had the one I was interested in. Luckily he did, so I got that too. I have been very good on this trip. This is the only the second item I have purchased en-route that isn’t food or a necessity for the journey. Just as I was leaving the shop, in walks Paula, from my first couple of days! It was so good to see her, and I am glad she continues on this route. She had at one point decided to go over to the Portuguese route, but then stayed here instead.

After leaving the shop, it was light enough that I didn’t have to worry about walking alone in the dark. Now all I had to worry about were the damned hills. And I was right to worry, as they were long and steep. I took it slowly and huffed and puffed my way up each one. I sat for a while at San Xil, with Paula and then went on ahead. I spent a lot of time looking at the stunning scenery, talking to horses, taking photos of fungi and slugs and generally just taking my time and drinking it all in. After today my Camino will change as there will be so many people leaving from Sarria that I just feel this may be my last change to enjoy the walk as it should be enjoyed.

Once I hit the straightaways (and could breath again!) I started to make up for lost time. The first 1.5km took me almost an hour. But the next 3 I did in the next hour, even with some uphills climbs (not as bad as the first half).

What goes up must come down….and down I went. And down, and down, and down. Some zig zagging was necessary so I didn’t blow my knees out. My calves were crying from the uphill, my knees were starting to sing from the steep downhill and my ankles joined in the chorus for good measure! Again, I made up a bit of time on the straightaways, so I didn’t do too badly. Paula had passed me ages ago on an uphill. But, at the end of this stage of very steep downhills, I caught up with her again. She still has bad knees from day 1, and is slow and careful on the Dow hills.

I stopped at another hippy dippy Albergue with Paula (looks like they sleep in a barn here…) for tea and biscuits, and a fresh apple form their orchards - it was crisp, sweet and perfect! When I looked at my Fitbit, it had taken me just under 2 hrs for 4.5km. Kinda sad, but, I made it!

I had arranged to meet Annette as Aguiada, as my path and hers (she went via Samos) merged at this point. So, I soon headed off again for the next 5 km which I walked mostly alone. I did walk a bit with a man named Harold whom I had met at the gallery and again at the hippy dippy Albergue. He has been travelling the world for 4 months and has two left to go…. Lucky bugger! Once I got to Aguiada, he continued in his way and I stopped to wait for Annette. I had gotten there at noon and she was due at 1pm. Her path was 6km longer than mine, but not as steep. As it turns out, she didn’t get there until almost 2:30! I was quite content to sit in the sun, read my book and play on my phone :-) After she had rested for a bit, we headed off for the last 5km into the city. I am staying just before the city at a campground, but she is in the city.

I had wanted to stay at this campground since I had seen someone else posting about it. I have a cool little camping cabin with kitchenette, bathroom and shower, dining area, sofa and a freaking double bed with real sheets!! What a treat! It is so nice and peaceful here. Especially as I am the only one in the whole campground!! As it happens, I ended up walking another 1.5 each way, to the supermarket. I wanted to cook for myself tonight. There was limited selection, so I got the fixings for poor pilgrims streak, egg and chips (and a Snickers ice cream to eat i
on the walk back!). Dinner wasn’t too bad either!! I also now have 4 hard boiled eggs to take along with me tomorrow and the next day. So, win win! I sat outside to eat my dinner but the sun was setting and my cool, private campground started to get eerie and creepy, so I came inside, locked the door and closed the blinds hahaha.

Fingers crossed for a good sleep and a quick walk tomorrow. Around 22km so I know I am going to be pooched by the time I get there!Read more