Hiszpania
Hornos el Viejo

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    • Dzień 72

      Hornos to La Platera

      20 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We have our very own era to admire every time we step out our front door!

      Choosing the tiny aldea of La Platera for our last four days of walking turned out to be a very lucky decision. When Pedro, the owner, opened the door to our casa rural, we noticed right away that the table in the living room was a trillo, a sled-shaped board with pieces of blade-shaped rocks embedded in rows to thresh the wheat. Pedro beckoned to us to follow him, and not ten steps from our front door, he gestured with his arm - and there was an era where the threshing took place. Pedro could tell we were really interested in the history of the place, so he stayed for an hour and a half, telling us that there were a “montón” of people living here when he met his wife here 36 years ago. Now there are two year-round residents left. “Una pena,” he said several times.
      He showed us how the threshing took place with a donkey pulling the trillo around and around over the wheat spread on the era. The era was located in a breezy spot so that after the threshing, if basketfuls of wheat were thrown in the air, the wind would blow away the chaff, allowing the heavier grains of wheat to fall to the ground. The families of the aldea were self-sufficient, he said, growing or raising all their own food. Now, all the young people want to live elsewhere and have paying jobs to buy their food. In an opinion we haven’t heard before, he said the formation of the park accelerated this trend because even if a young person wants to try to make a living here now, it is very difficult to get permission for land use from the park authorities.

      Our walk today took us past the neighboring aldea of Carrascal and by scattered cortijos. We saw olive tree after olive tree with no budding olives and with dying yellow leaves that we assume are showing the effects of heat and drought.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dzień 73

      La Platera: La Laguna

      21 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      We woke up this morning to drops of rain on the plants in the arbor, small puddles on the flagstones, and thick fog hiding the surrounding hills, but now, after a day of sunshine, everything is dried up again.

      Earlier this week, while combing through maps and tracks along the southern shore of the sprawling Embalse del Tranco that lies just below us, I kept finding references to a small lagoon. Pedro also mentioned this yesterday, saying that it was a source of salt, and that nearby was a particularly beautiful era whose floor was made with stones of various colors. This all sounded very intriguing, so we set out to explore that area this morning as soon as the fog lifted. When we reached the next aldea, El Carrascal, a dog followed us out of the village. We tried our hardest to get him to turn around and go home, but he insisted on staying with us throughout the entire day. It’s a good thing we were making a loop trip, or he would have ended up very far from home and very thirsty. The road along the edge of the embalse gave us colorful views, not only of the water, but also of forest glades followed by old olive groves with trees with very thick trunks. We found the lagoon, but were so distracted by our worries about the dog that we forgot to look for the era with the colored stones. On the way home, we decided to take a route for which we had no GPX track, but the trail showed clearly on the IGN map of Spain. It’s always a bit worrisome not to have a track to follow, but after a few wrong turns, we made it to an overlook with tremendous views of the entire area and felt quite happy that our adventure had turned out so well. In addition, our canine friend is now back in his home village. Whew!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dzień 74

      La Platera: Collado de Montero

      22 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      It’s cloudy today and every once in awhile, there are a few droplets that meander down from the sky, but there isn’t any outpouring of the kind that would nourish plants and animals. The frogs in the local water tank are happy, though.

      Our route today was in the best condition of all the dirt tracks we have walked in the last ten weeks. No ruts, no potholes, no excessive loose stones, no narrow sections - just a wide, well-graded track rising steadily from La Platera to the Collado de Montero. As such, it was a bit of a mystery. We kept asking each other why a track in such perfect condition was here. It didn’t lead anywhere important, so why was it so special that it even merited being here, much less being maintained in such stellar fashion? There was a barrier just beyond the village that could close off the track, but why? Ice or snow in the winter? Fire danger? On the way up it passed access roads into numerous olive groves, most so steep that the prints in the dirt were of tractors with tracks rather than tires. But orchard access wouldn’t account for such a fine track.

      At the pass, we could see lots of signs and thought maybe they would give us a clue. First set: trail markers, no clue. Second set: comunidad boundary markers, no clue. Third set (after another lockable barrier): a big sign with red letters announcing “Danger! Hunting Area”. Not the tame little black and white “coto privado“ signs you usually see. Aha!

      So we are guessing that either the Sociedad de Caza Arroyo Montero maintains the track to this high standard or they have a lot of influence on whatever other entity is responsible for the track. Either way, it provided a great route for us today!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
      Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 75

      La Platera: Hornos el Viejo

      23 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

      Today was the first day in 75 days of walking in Andalucia that we had to change course to step around a puddle! It rained all night long and well into the morning, by far the longest-lasting rain we’ve had. Out on our walk, we met two ladies in the neighboring village of Hornos el Viejo who, when we mentioned “mucha lluvia anoche”, went to great lengths to vehemently tell us how good it was that it had rained. I’m guessing they thought we were clueless tourists who didn’t want our walking spoiled and didn’t realize how desperate the residents are for rain.

      The rain brought us some new sights and sounds: snails crossing the road amidst green bursts of moss and an hours-long symphony of birdsong from every turn of the path. In spite of the clouds, we had good views of La Platera from various angles. Our house is just outside the village, set off by itself with a lovely arbor at the back, and of course, the era and the acequia. Like all the cortijos around here, it’s a very large house, built to accommodate multiple generations. I think there are 12 bedrooms in all. These days it is rented out as six separate units ranging from a studio to three bedrooms (but Pedro says we are the only people here since Easter). It’s been a privilege to stay here and soak up the history of a way of life that hardly exists anymore, and with the exclamation point of the rain, quite a fitting last day to our weeks in the Sierra de Segura.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
      Czytaj więcej

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