La Pola de Gordón

Last night I was like a 10-year-old trying to get to sleep on Christmas Eve. It just wouldn’t happen. I’m sure I got a few hours sleep though. After a cup of instant coffee (caffeine is the desired ingredient more than taste), at about seven I put my headlamp on and headed out. Sunrise is about 8 am now!

It was a great walking day, cloudy at the beginning and then cooler and breezy towards the end. Leaving big cities is usually not so much fun, but there is a dirt path along the river that took me from the parador all the way to the first town about 10 km out. I have seen one other pilgrim, but he was going to stop in the town before I did. Lots of other people out on the trail though, all wearing masks and all saying Buen Camino to me.

In the woods I found another great use for my mask. I put it on to keep the gnats out of my nose and mouth. Then when I got too hot, I would take it off and leave it off until a gnat either flew into my nose or my mouth. Then I would put the mask on and start the drill all over again.

I didn’t remember this stage as being so difficult. I knew it was about 38 km, with maybe 400 m of elevation gain. But I was dragging at the end, and then I realized that the last time I did this stage I was five years younger and I had been walking for three weeks.

I am walking through mining country and now that the coal industry isn’t totally shut down in Spain, the towns that are left behind are really suffering. So sad.

After a shower and clothes wash, I met up with Ender, the Salvador angel who started it all. The first time I walked there was very little marking, and he took care of that along with a guidebook. We had a good Camino Chet.

Tomorrow is the most beautiful mountain stage, I can’t wait and the weather looks good.Read more