Sobrán

Up at the monastery the previous evening the chapel had been packed for the Pilgrims Blessing. I think a few people were surprised that Vespers was said before the blessing and left early. The chapel was still reasonably full though.

It was a different story for the 07:30 Mass. The cloister was in darkness when we arrived and it was only from memory that we managed to find the chapel door. We were joined by one other person.

With 10 minutes to go the door opened and in we went. Two more men appeared and went through to the sacristy. Just as Mass was starting two ladies turned up. So that was 5 of us in the congregation. A marked downward trend from the night before. Lauds was sang and then Mass followed. These entries are supposed to be about the Camino so I'll leave my thoughts on it all at that.

Back up at the hotel the eccentricities of the day before continued. ( I dont think I've mentioned that my room had a large shower area with a floor that could be lifted up to reveal a sunken bath? A novel idea. I'd say the reason that it hasn't caught on is because it was almost impossible to get out of the bath after a soak. ) There's no chef so breakfast was a collection of cold offerings of various descriptions. Coffee came from a pod machine. I've never used one before so it was a struggle. The minimalist toast machine only had one job to do, but it didn't do it. Everything about the hotel looked fantastic, but wasn't functional. The staff were good though, so I was happy enough.

Fed and watered we wandered back down towards the monastery ready to begin what had been rated as some of the most scenic walking on any Camino. The Ruta do Pedra e do Aqua. The way of water and stone. The river falls from Armenteira down to Barrantes with a number of mill races and grinding stones that were used for the production of flower. With expectations high, we started.

It was hard going. Not particularly steep but endless tree roots were protruding waiting to trip the unwary. Or the less than fleet of foot. Then there were steep stone steps and slabs of downward sloping stone. Perhaps not unexpected given the name of the route. We'd chosen the path to the right. A Mexican lady had gone to the left. We were down at the river level, she was a good deal higher looking down through the trees to the water. In recent years I'd have to say that the bounce in my step has gone. I owe more to Brian from the Magic Roundabout these days than Zebedee.

I batted on but I can't say I'd enjoyed it that much. Too much at stake really. After 2k the river flattened out a good deal and the walking was easier. Another 6k later and Barrentes was reached. Not much more than a large cantina next to a busy road. My mind went back to a Peanuts cartoon. Charlie Brown and Lucy are running barefoot through the grass exclaiming how marvellous it feels. Snoopy is looking on nonplussed. "You soon get used to it". Maybe that was the problem. River walks like this are common in Cumbria and the Dales. Ah well.

From here on the path follows the Rio Umia and Rio Amelas. There was very little shade and the sun beat down. I was struck by the huge shoals of fish in the rivers. About the size of trout and all pointing upstream. I can only assume that whatever they were they were poor eating. If not you'd expect to see hombres casting nets.

Another thought came to me. Since we seemed to be walking by the side of endless rivers we'd seen precious few fountains. When I did find one the water was unusually heavily chlorinated.

Around 15k in we the path swung right onto a forrest path and up and away again. Mercifully short though. Then we entered an areas of vines. No shade whatsoever. I was begining to flag. As if on cue, I was caught by a Polish girl who decided to chat with me. Her excitement when I greeted her with Dzien dobry was short lived when all I could manage to go with that was Dziekuje. However, after finding that she'd been born in Warsaw I asked her where she was studying. "You won't know it, it's called wudge" ( I'm giving you the phonetic pronunciation here ). Ah ha! "That'll be spelt Lodz" says I. ( Łódź had I been writing it but, strange as this may seem, I didn't have a pen to hand ) I brought her to a standstill. We chatted on for a half hour and suddenly we were out of the heat and weaving our way through a small village. Kallina stopped to wait for her friend who was struggling on some way behind us. I pushed on reinvigorated. Maybe my middle name should be Tobias rather than Anthony.

Vilanova de Arousa was now in sight. A sparkling sea and a golden beach. Thankfully I didn't wander over the large road bridge but kept on around the coast until a footbridge came into view. It looked a lovely town but boy was it hot. Finding it impossible to follow Google maps directions to an open mercado I commandeered what appeared to be two young lads. On closer inspection, they were "hanging tuff" with a plethora of tattoos and ciggies on the go. Drenched in sweat and swaying slightly I had a stab at asking where I could get aqua fridgedo. Near enough. Never judge a book and all that jazz. They took me down a couple of streets to an open shop trying out their best Spanglish on the way.

Then, having done all Holy Mother Church had asked me to by walking into V.d.Arusa, I had them walk me to a taxi so I could ride out to my bed for the night. A place that looked like a small Scottish castle set in vast grounds. Old fashioned somewhat, but with large cool rooms and a bath. Sorted.

Executive Summary. Well, disappointing. Not a bad days walking but..... didn't live up to the hype. Also, about 15 degrees to hot today.Read more