Camino de Santiago

May – July 2023
  • Steve Broyles
Walking to find clarity, seeking the present. Read more
  • Steve Broyles

List of countries

  • France France
  • Spain Spain
  • United States United States
Categories
Hiking, Self discovery, Solo travel, Spirituality
  • 7.0kmiles traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight6,292kilometers
  • Walking508kilometers
  • Bus94kilometers
  • Train91kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 144footprints
  • 44days
  • 677photos
  • 166likes
  • Chilly Start

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Morning yoga is less easy when cool mists are blowing across my exposed lower back in downdog. 🥶

    Stretching the calves, especially my left, really isn't optional at this point so I may as well do my typical routine. Good for the body, good for the brain, good for my heart. (And good for mitigating said calf's unpleasant tendency to ache).

    We got our typical 7:20 start. It seems vaguely wired into our pattern regardless of waking time we seem to walk at 7:20.

    We took the short(er) easy(ier) route through San Xil. Cows. Mists. Verdant Chaos of trees and moss and berry vines. All illuminated by a shy sun that occasionally blasted gold across everything.
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  • Donativo Hippy Happy; Terra de Luz

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Without notice, another wonderful place popped up on my radar...

    Terra de Luz (Land of Light) was a happy, welcoming space with abundant plants, art, happy vibes, comfy spots, and delicious food.... And Coffee! www.wisdomoftheway.com

    All operated on the concept of "pay whatever you feel is appropriate, take just what you need."

    I wish that I could believe such a model could work off-Camino... But somehow such things often devolve into a tragedy of the commons.

    Here, however, it means abundance from all parties and everyone seems to flourish under the unspoken agreement. It is humanity operating at optimum.

    Lovely.

    *I left behind the walking sticks that I adopted gratis in Muria. I do not like them on flatter/firmer surfaces. Perhaps someone else will enjoy them.
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  • Anger at 11:30

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Over the past several weeks I have noticed a curious trend: at about 11:20-11:30 I find myself muttering (aloud and with complete sincerity)....

    "Fuck this. I don't want to walk anymore"

    The last few days it has been accompanied by a laugh as Bruce and I mock my daily morning petulance.

    Today I actually started laughing, turned to Bruce and said: "I bet it's 11:30."
    "You're sick of walking"
    Steve pulls up sleeve to show 11:23AM
    "Boom!"
    We both got a good laugh.

    I was still 100% the *fuck* over walking for 10 minutes. But it passes. Looking at flowers helps (today was magnolias).

    Ahh.... Camino Life. Good times.
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  • Pilgrim Diner

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The best part of travel is meeting good people and recognizing how much we all have in common despite geography and upbringing and age and demographics.

    People are people.
    Love thy neighbor is good advice.

    At dinner tonight we had South Africa, Holland, Germany, California, UK, GA.

    Canada came by for a glass of wine and so did Iceland. Spain, France, and Italy also said hello.
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  • Signs and Portomarin

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    While I am generally very happy with signage, this is not the 1st time we have seen signs that require some interpretation.

    I chose right because the guide app said Right. Vamos a ver.

    We have recently been appreciating hydrangeas. They do well here.

    Also the Church in Portomarin is imposingly prominent but not very fancy compared to many we have seen.
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  • There goes the lace loop
    A good soak brings ahhhhhhs

    2nd Shoe Failure

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Well.... Now both shoes have at least one failure. I'm sure that they'll make it another 79KM, but I'll be shoe-shopping soon.

    I'm not complaining. I have walked over 800KM in these with only 1 blister*. They're good shoes. I'll miss them.

    Shoes are quite the topic of conversation on The Camino. We all compare notes and are intimately familiar with just how our shoes need to be adjusted.

    One of the significant advances in foot comfort has been at least 1, sometimes 2, "sock stops" in which I remove shoes and socks, allowing everything a chance to dry out a little. I then re-powder my feet before setting out again (some folks prefer vaseline vs. powder). It feels so good to have a break and to start anew. On a really long day I might even don fresh socks. Luxurious! But requires added laundry.

    Among the amusing phenomena related to feet: any time we rest for more than a few minutes, upon walking again it really feels like "these aren't my feet anymore. I don't know how to use them at all"

    It takes at least 20 meters of mincing shuffle-step to start to loosen up the tight parts and then walk again. "Fun"

    River/pool soaks at the end of the day's walking are wonderful. Pure joy.

    *Clyde is doing pretty well. No infection, seems to be receding on his own. I won't miss him.
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  • Ponte Campaña from Gonzar pt 1

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    I should make an album of all the good doggies who have said hello.

    Today was a fairly easy 23km. We woke rough: some folks woke up to loud alarms before 5am (not that unusual) then spent *an hour* getting out of the room.

    It's hard to explain what an obnoxious breach of etiquette this is. Sleep is precious when one burns a few thousand calories each day and the norm is for quiet hours from 10pm to 6am. When folks wake before 6 the generally accepted thing to do is have your bag already packed and stealthily slip out of the room with minimal audio/light impact. You can arrange and adjust your gear in a hallway or common area.

    Today's folk must have packed and repacked their crinkly plastic, ripped open velcro, and zipped and unzipped every pocket. They dropped things, they conversed, the 4 of them made at least 10 trips to the bathroom and used their phone lights to illuminate as much as possible.

    All the while the rest of us did our best to pretend we would return to sleep for a few more moments. It didn't work.

    But!
    A little misty-morning yoga helped me restore some empathy and peace... Then the sun came out to make a beautiful morning.

    We strolled an hour, chatted with cows, and found a tasty coffee and an enormous tortilla. Then my shoe broke (see other post).

    We had some hills and got a sweeping panoramic view of the mist-filled valley to the South, the large moon to the West, a hazy sun to the East, and a golden pathway towards the North. Sometimes the hard climbs yield the greatest vistas.

    As we get deeper into Galicia, the typical grain storage (corn?) buildings are more frequent. They're elevated to protect from animals and water, and decorated ... Just to be beautiful.

    A dog said hi.

    Oaks shaded us.

    The Michael Jackson graffiti persists.

    And eventually we stopped for a 2nd breakfast that included amazing honey-drenched crepes. To. Die. For.
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  • Ponte Campaña from Gonzar pt 2

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After crepes we paused for a moment in Palas De Rei, bought delicious cherries at the farmer's market, and I managed to talk my way into a really cool stamp for my credencial.

    We pushed on through, enjoying sunny weather and smooth strolling until we arrived early to our lodging - near 1PM.

    Order of the day was relax, clean laundry, soak feet in the river, sip wine and chill in a hammock. Easy to enjoy.
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  • Coffee makes the next hill Better

    July 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    And while ~30 isn't big mileage for us at this point, I think that the accumulated wear and tear is adding up. My feet are a little sore, my left achilles straight up hates me, and my knees would prefer we avoid any additional downhill.

    ....and yet I find myself happy.

    In part it is surely the amazing view that I'm currently enjoying. Corn, eucalyptus, fallow fields, country manors, and a few stands of oaks present a vibrant mosaic across which fluffy clouds make sunshine spots dance and shadows drift.
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