Camino de Santiago

mai – juli 2023
  • Steve Broyles
Walking to find clarity, seeking the present. Les mer
  • Steve Broyles

Liste over land

  • Frankrike Frankrike
  • Spania Spania
  • Forente stater Forente stater
Kategorier
Fottur, Selvoppdagelse, Alenereise, Spiritualitet
  • 7,0kreiste miles
Transportmidler
  • Flyvning6 292kilometer
  • Går508kilometer
  • Buss94kilometer
  • Tog91kilometer
  • Fotturer-kilometer
  • Sykkel-kilometer
  • Motorsykkel-kilometer
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometer
  • Bil-kilometer
  • Campingvogn-kilometer
  • Campingvogn-kilometer
  • 4x4-kilometer
  • Svømming-kilometer
  • Padling/Roing-kilometer
  • Motorbåt-kilometer
  • Seiling-kilometer
  • Husbåt-kilometer
  • Ferge-kilometer
  • Cruisebåt-kilometer
  • Hest-kilometer
  • Skikjøring-kilometer
  • Haike-kilometer
  • Cable car-kilometer
  • Helikopter-kilometer
  • Barfot-kilometer
  • 144fotspor
  • 44dager
  • 677bilder
  • 166liker
  • Hospital de Grañón

    15. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Spending a night in a donation based, volunteer staffed hostel was a delightful contrast to the 4star experience of a few nights ago.

    I enjoy both, for very different reasons.

    Highlights include a family style dinner for about 40 people with pasta made by Italian cooks, salad made by Americans, a lentil/nettle stew made by Spaniards and French people, along with wine and bread. Conversation flowed in a mashup of European and hand-gestures and smiles.

    The Camino has a tradition of getting stamps in a "Credential": A paper passport. This Hospital (from the word hospitality) offers hugs instead... It had a distinctly sedate Burning Man feel to it in a nurturing inclusive way. The evening culminated in a candlelight ceremony in the choir section of the church (Cathedral? Big place for a town of 250 people) where we were seated in the hundreds-years-old choir stalls, sharing a bit of insight into our journeys. It was moving.

    I am glad that I stopped and feel richer for it.
    Les mer

  • Tosantos. Donativo

    16. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    I passed up the chance to play in a swimming pool, choosing instead to sleep on a thin mat on the floor again.

    I really enjoyed yesterday that much, and this type of experience is not available every stop.

    Also
    Today marks a year since my brother, Marty, died of a brain tumor and I feel conflicted about the relative merits of playing vs. being more spiritual. I am sure he would say "play!" but equally sure that my inner sense of self is clearly telling me that I feel less celebratory and more somber. I will celebrate him, plenty, but I haven't tapped into a feeling of joy enough to ignore the feeling of sadness. It all comes and goes in waves.

    That said, I did pause in a dappled-shade garden with geraniums on the wall and enjoyed a delicious glass of sangria. He would have liked that. I sure did! Low-80s temps, light breeze, an amazing watermelon... All things of which he and I are both quite fond.

    Besides the thoughts of him, today's 24km walk included: a beautiful cool morning with some pre-walk yoga (missed sunrise), passing from La Rioja into Castilla y León, rolling hills, a fresh-from-the-oven chocolate croissant, many wildflowers, too much near-the-highway, a great commencement speech in my ears ("This is Water" by Wallace), butterflies!, plenty of sunshine, some cool murals, ripe cherries plucked from a tree, several fun fountains, some kind and caring inquiries from fellow pilgrims who have heard me mention the significance of today, a visit to a 6th century hermitage bored into a mountain (renovated in the mid-1600s), and some pleasant conversations with new friends staying here.

    A fantastic day.
    It is warming up. I love it, so far.
    Les mer

  • Grief, Release.... Repeat

    17. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    For those following my emotional meanderings....

    We had a prayer after dinner at the donativo* which includes reading notes left by previous pilgrims who request prayer/support.....

    Tip: if you're dancing with emotional pain/grief, sitting through a dozen tales of woe and suffering is a great way to get some of your own juices flowing. Mine all tried to flow out my eyeballs.

    I wandered off to a wheat field, had a sobbing good cry, a few laughs when a kitten came to check on me**, then spent a moment thanking those who have been so amazingly supportive.... and slept soundly on a thin mat in a room of 10 people with one window.

    All in all, a very painfully good process.
    I do wish I had unpacked this ~11 months ago.... Glad to be doing it now.

    Best to you all!
    Thanks for the messages of support.

    *A donativo is a donation based (religiously subsidized) hostel that is very true to the origins of the pilgrimage aspect of The Camino.... No frills, community meals, simple. Inherently, they have religious overtones that do not mesh naturally with my own belief system, but stepping outside my views is important to me and I am learning a great deal.

    **The kitten came back to check on me this morning as I was getting ready to depart; brought me a mouse. It's gonna be a good day.
    Les mer

  • It's more bustling than this seems, I swear.

    Rain. Agés

    17. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌩️ 73 °F

    I'm sitting in a bustling bar where they serve the hipsteryist hamburgers I've seen since Oakland. Good beer, too.

    It is pouring Wolves and Tigers outside with violent blasts of lightning and thunder. Fabulous! But certainly deters my urge to explore. I may just brave it.... After 2 days of monk-style living I want something shallower.

    I'm feeling very aware of time-dilation. Can't quite wrap my head around the fact I left SFO just 18 days ago. It feels like so much more! And yet, that my life kind of crumbled out from under my feet about 3 months ago still feels recent. Strange. Let's not even unpack what happened a year ago. Time.... It is a slippery beast, that one.

    And so I sit, waiting for a break in this savage storm (no exaggeration, this is a doozy) and debating between a 2nd beer or getting soaked to see what else (and who) is out there.

    Among the fun aspects of this particular journey is how quickly people bond. An hour of chatting on the Camino, I know some people better than others with whom I've had casual connection for months, at home.
    Les mer

  • Agés from Tosantos

    17. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    The walk today turned unexpectedly sporty, but pretty.

    We strolled flat wheat fields until Villafranca then started climbing into pine hills with black flies and little breeze.

    It was pretty and challenging.

    The path eventually sloped back down into a cute church and then some fields full of enormous cows before we arrived to Agés... Just before a tremendous storm.

    I braved the tempest to find good food, beer and company (another post) then wrapped up the evening watching a stork and a church in late evening golden rain sparkled beauty.
    Les mer

  • Rest Day 2nd Breakfast

    19. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    My feet suggested I take a day off, so I am (this is the intention).

    I love the simplicity of this experience.

    So I walked a few meters and enjoyed my 1st breakfast of the day (a much better pan de chocolate* vs yesterday).... Then had the pleasure of meeting a fellow pilgrim, Ping, who took it upon herself to force me to take some pics of each other w/ the sights. A fine idea and fun, too. I like fun.

    She also told me about how I can stow my pack for the day while I explore, which is a tremendous improvement in my experience and I'm so grateful!

    And now we sit swapping travel stories under luscious green trees having churros for 2nd breakfast.

    Happiness abounds.

    *Local name for choco croissant is "Napolitano" often abbreviated to "un Nápo" and knowing this I get better vibes from the person behind the counter. I feel like I've levelled up my pastry game.
    Les mer

  • Narrow Rain Escape

    20. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    For about 5km I watched a storm brewing and fate was kind enough that I rolled into a town to eat just as a few drops started.

    10 minutes later it was pouring.

    I love it! Explosive rain is even more delightful sitting under an awning.Les mer

  • Rain Got Me

    20. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Bruce and I got caught just outside Hornillos Del Camino in my 1st real deluge on the trail and I gotta say.... Not a big fan of walking on open plains with lightning.

    I am a big fan of when the rain stops and the sparkling sunshine begins.

    If that's not a metaphor, then I'll just stop looking.
    Les mer