Camino de Santiago

Mai – Juli 2023
  • Steve Broyles
Walking to find clarity, seeking the present. Weiterlesen
  • Steve Broyles

Liste der Länder

  • Frankreich Frankreich
  • Spanien Spanien
  • Vereinigte Staaten von Amerika Vereinigte Staaten von Amerika
Kategorien
Wandern, Selbstfindung, Alleinreisen, Spiritualität
  • 7,0TMeilen gereist
Transportmittel
  • Flug6.292Kilometer
  • Gehen508Kilometer
  • Bus94Kilometer
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  • 144Footprints
  • 44Tage
  • 677Fotos
  • 166Gefällt mir
  • Rawr!Tasty Vegan fare at La Costa del Adobe

    El Burgo Ranero from Sahagún

    25. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Keeping it easy today.

    I think I'd have enjoyed another five km but the next town is nearly 13km away and temps are ramping up quickly. Better to be gentle than overdo it after a sick day.

    The Meseta continues to be .... Bland.
    The landscape was dominated by cornfields today.

    I had high hopes for finding a pool but it seems I misread the icons on the app.... Plenty of warm adobe but no splish-splash, alas.

    My feet and belly are feeling a million times better, and that's good enough.

    We didn't really plan to splurge but Bruce and I got a double room at a hotel instead of paying only slightly less for dormitory space at the albergue. I'm going to get spoiled if I keep doing this. I find it challenging to not 'splurge' less than the cost of a pint of beer at home to have a better sleep. Maybe I'm getting soft.
    Weiterlesen

  • Missing My Spearos

    26. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Craving some Coastal Foraging.

    Found crawdads in a fountain!

    But somehow it just ain't the same.

  • León has been lovely....

    27. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    ...so much that I haven't taken time to make a post. Which is too bad. So here's a quick photo dump.

    The Cathedral's stained glass amounts to nearly 1,800m2. That's nearly 1/2 an acre! And it is so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. The soaring roof was built so delicately that after a few hundred years a complete restoration was required .... That took 50 years.
    I have a hard time imagining buildings in those time-scales. León only had about 5,000 residents when this enormous gothic palace was built.

    Now, being inside those soaring arches, with the sun streaming in... I can see how people felt religious inspiration.

    We spent some time being amazed by the Gaudi museum (Casa Botines) as well.... I could write pages about his genius.

    The rest of the city is full of flowers, art, statues, friendly people, museums and delicious food. One day was not nearly enough!
    Weiterlesen

  • Cute little Coffee Pause

    28. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Domus Oncinae is an unexpected gem. We had a delightful stop with friendly people (se habla Ingles). I almost want to stay.... But we have only done 12km- less than 1/2 of our goal for the day.

    We are taking the "alternate" route after León which adds about 4km to the day, but so far has been relaxing and pretty. We are seeing raptors and hearing songbirds instead of hiking alongside a major highway with the melody of trucks whizzing by.Weiterlesen

  • Villavante from León; 1st Blister

    28. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    While walking today I realized I've walked more than 300 miles (500+ km) so far. If we include in-town, it's significantly more.

    That's a lot of steps. My phone says 41,000 today alone and that's pretty typical for a 32km (~20 miles) day.

    The landscape was attractive, gentle rolling hills with corn, beets (?), Wheat, a flowering plant we don't recognize, sunflowers, some tree farms, flax, and probably others that I've forgotten because my blood sugar is low and my head is half-baked from the heat and the remarkable paucity of shade.

    Right after lunch I discovered my first blister! I'm sad and annoyed by this... I've been successful thus far and don't know what factors contributed. Did I tie my shoe too loose/tight? Socks got too damp? A rock? Some dirt?

    Whatever happened, my left 2nd toe now has a little (pea sized) painful blister. Phooey.
    I'll decide later what to do to mitigate more problems; after a cool beverage.

    Despite each of us discovering blisters, the rising heat, and friendly company .... We opted to do another 10km after lunch in ~90 degree weather. They were 10 boring, but flat, km along first a straight paved road then a straight dirt road. Highlights include: León just after dawn; getting some adorable puppy skritches; watching an eagle eat a snake in a hayfield; watching a different raptor glide around a field, presumably hunting; enjoying a lunch of veggie burger w fries; cool breeze on sweaty bodies; several rivers; standing in the overspray of aomw corn irrigation; meeting some nice people along the way; and taking off my shoes. All in all, a very good day.

    We made it. Maybe we should have walked another mile to a cute b&b by the river but took the "good enough and here" option of a humble but clean Albergue. Adding "just one more mile" after 20 miles in the peak of afternoon heat.... Is a tough sell.

    Emotionally.... I am glad to say that I had a number of chances to check in with myself and feel great. I've shed some of the burdens with which I started this trip and the others feel much more manageable. Doing hard things every day is good therapy. Combining in the opportunity of 5-10hrs of moving meditation helps, too. Life is feeling good.

    I'm dang tired. Staying up till 11+ last night wasn't ideal training. Or maybe I shouldn't have had that penultimate glass of vino. We shall never know.
    Weiterlesen

  • Murias de Rechivaldo from Villavante

    29. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    A cool breeze blew all day, which kept off most of the heat but bedeviled my attempts at hiding from the sun under a straw hat.

    I didn't get much of a sunburn, maybe it's windburn? I'll be fine.

    The walk started hazy and cool enough to want a fleece. Delicious walking weather.

    We passed through fields and over some roadways to see Puente de Óbrigo... An enormous medieval bridge spanning what I assume were marshy riverside lands but are now drained fields with a cute town. Also enioyed a snacky chocolate croissant. Yum.

    The trail took us upward shortly afterwards, climbing gently but steadily up a few hundred feet to get our first glimpse of Astorga. Astorga is bigger and prettier than I expected. We had a good lunch and admired the cathedral but wanted to get a little out of town for better sleep (cities are loud) and pushed onward to a cute little spot with a charming lodging.

    I snoozed in a hammock (which is always my favorite thing), played with a dog (always my favorite thing), enjoyed an ice cold draft beer while swapping story with a fascinating international traveler (my favorite thing), and enjoyed live music while eating a healthy meal (my favorite).

    All in all.... The day finished strong.

    Also... Good doors today.
    Weiterlesen

  • My feet hurt

    29. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I default to writing about the 'good' of the experience. There are parts that are hard to enjoy.

    Easy example: it's 9:50pm and someone is using a weed whacker within earshot. A pox upon them and their descendants!!

    I've become somewhat of a connoisseur of 'good' bunk beds. This is not a skill/trait I thought I would develop at this stage of my life.

    My feet feel like someone is holding hot ants against them for about 1/2 the day, most days.

    I fart a lot. I think it's because most of my meals are low on fiber, and often I eat a meal then rest briefly and begin walking... So digestion is negatively affected. Toot!

    Wicked farmer's tan. ... And ankle socks, even better.

    Most mornings, someone wakes up at a very early hour and makes a ton of noise because they didn't pack their bags the night before. Then they usually use a bright light of some sort. And that's usually within a 1/2 hour of when I was going to wake anyway.... So might as well just stay awake.

    Blisters: Not fun. No stars. Do not recommend.

    Chafing happens. It is rarely comfortable. It is rarely predictable. It is insidious.

    My facial hair has run amok. Complete disaster. Hair on my head is [Miracle Max voice] only mostly dead [/Miracle Max voice].

    I have worn the same 3 shirts without pause since May 27th. They have been sorta cleaned most days. Thank the Lambs for Merino wool, it is good even when stinky.

    The next town is always further away than the guidebook/map says it will be. 100% of the time.

    Translating is mentally tiring sometimes.., there was a moment with a religious guy, and it pained me greatly but I just couldn't... If you ever use a translater : speak in brief phrases, not paragraphs. Trust me.

    Time zone woes make communication less convenient. Tho internet makes it so much eaaier than decades ago.

    Some people in shared rooms snore. Some snore A LOT. Some (like me) fart. Some do both.

    There is such a thing as "too much sun".

    Today I had to walk an hour before I could obtain coffee. (But there was a napolitana.. so... Not so bad).

    Sunset is late (after 10:30) and most albuerges lock the door at 10.

    Sometimes, due to being tired and having on a backpack, I do not stop to pet *some* dogs.

    Aside from all that.... Life is pretty good.
    Weiterlesen

  • Over The Hill; Acebo from Murias

    30. Juni 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    While sitting at lunch we decided .. "Why stop at 13 miles? It's only another 7 ish with a few hundred feet of elevation gain over the most rugged pass on the trail to get to the next lodging."

    Also, pool.

    And so we forged onward.

    In fairness, this morning was cold. Like.,. Low 40s cold. And we are higher elevation, so we didn't want to do the 5,000ft pass at dawn. And we felt strong. The walking was glorious all day. And ~20 miles isn't as intimidating as it once was.

    So, after enjoying one of the best salads I've ever had, a kombucha, then a coffee ... We continued.

    Along the way I said an easy but important goodbye; appreciated gorgeous mountain holly in bloom; absorbed an abundance of vitamin D; laughed often; limped occasionally; discussed world politics, relationships, the stock market, Kenyan quail markets, shoes (shoes are a frequent topic TBH), and food; awed and ooo'd over vistas; and stood for a long while watching a berry bush abuzz with a stunning diversity of pollinators.

    There were snacks.

    The physical component was tough but mostly due to foot pain, not so much due to fatigue.

    The weather gods blessed us with not just benevolence, but with excellence.

    And when we arrived, there was in fact a spectacular pool in which to swim.

    A great day.

    A delightful frenchman and his 3 sons shared dinner with me and with Bruce. I am reminded that I should learn some French, and glad that Marc spoke such good English.

    The night is wrapping to a close and tomorrow holds great promise.
    Weiterlesen