• Stuart Priest
  • Stuart Priest

Madagascar

A trip to the Central and Southern areas of Madagascar, focusing on the National Parks at Andasibe, Ranomafana and Isalo Read more
  • Trip start
    October 10, 2024

    A journey begins

    October 10, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    They say every Journey starts with the first step. My first step is into the car. Heading down to meet Larry and Eloise. This will be a long day but the rewards will be worth it

  • Au Bois Vert Lodge

    October 11, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    So after a very full and snug flight, we've finally made it to Antananarivo. Lovely little flat in a place called Au Bois Vert Lodge. Quick freshen up before Dinner then we will have a happy walk around tonight to see what's aroundRead more

  • Vakona Lodge

    Oct 13–15, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Through the hustle and bustle of Antananarivo and out into the rural areas. There was no shortage of sights and sounds to take in. From City to Village, everyone is busy. Passing terraced paddy fields as we wind our way towards Andasibe. We met our guide for this section, Dimasy, at the park gates. A short drive and we got to stretch our legs and take a hike through Villageois, a community owned reserve. Here we were lucky to see day gecko's, skinks, snakes and a small group of Indri. Further into the trail we had a group of Common Brown Lemurs run up to meet us, they sat mere inches from us expectantly waiting, we do not know what they were waiting for though.
    After checking into our Hotel and grabbing a snack we headed back out for a night walk. Here our first surprise was a Cat Tailed Dwarf Lemur walking the wire over the road. After this, with the sounds of frogs and crickets we explored the forest. Mouse Lemurs were our next discovery, small and grey brown and resembling a Furbee, we watched them licking the sap from trees. A number of juvenile Nose Horned Chameleons were see too. Then, within 10 feet of our pickup point we found a Mossy Leaf Tailed Gecko.
    After a beer to celebrate we retired for some much needed rest.
    Day 2 gave us 2 more hikes, in 2 different reserves. Today would be Lemur day it seemed. Firstly we came across another family of Indri, who treated us to a display of their territorial call, ear splitting and haunting but wonderful to witness. After leaving the Indri in peace we headed higher up the slopes and met a group of Diademed Sifaka that we watched feeding contentedly for a while. The morning walk was rounded off with a Grey Bamboo Lemur, barely glimpsed through the foliage.
    After Lunch we headed out once more, and this time had the incredible experience of hand feeding some Indri
    Read more

  • Antsirabe Royal Palace Hotel

    Oct 14–15, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A VERY long day in the bus today. We left Vakona Lodge and started the long journey towards Ranomafana. The condition of the roads and the amount of traffic meant it was impossible to reach Ranomafana in one day, so we will stay overnight in Antsirabe. The journey revealed the extent of the terraced farming, and the sheer number of people involved. All the labour is done by hand by people of all ages. It looks truly backbreaking work.
    We also passed dozens of the wood fired brick kilns, where all the hand made clay bricks are dried and hardened ready for sale
    Read more

  • Ranomafana National Park

    October 16, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After wanting to visit here since 2000, I'm pleased to say the park did not disappoint. These hikes are not for the faint hearted but I wouldn't have missed a second. Ranomafana National Park was established in 1991 and covers an area of 416 km2. It is relatively high elevation, with the park ranging from roughly 800m to 1200m above sea level. It is a very "up and down" park and takes it out of you, but the views! We saw 4 species of Lemur, the Red Fronted Brown Lemurs ( Eulemur rufifrons ), the Milne Edwards Sifaka ( Propithecus edwadsi ), the Greater Bamboo Lemur ( Prolemur sinus ) and the Golden Bamboo Lemur ( Hapalemur aureus ). There was also a Ring Tailed Mongoose ( Galidia elegant ) and the ICONIC Satanic Leaf Tailed Gecko ( Uroplatus phantasticus ).
    The breathtaking views, the endless variety of bugs and insects and the beautiful birds combine to make Ranomafana an incredible place to visit
    More pics to follow
    Read more

  • Ranomafana Night Walk

    October 16, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It's forbidden to be within the park at night, so Nocturnal Walks are done around the Park Boundary. We all met by the park gate and in the typical African fashion the night came upon us very quickly. Everybody was poised ready for the emergence of the Brown Mouse Lemur ( Microcebus Rufus ), a nocturnal species. They appeared on branches along the road side to lick sap from the trees. They were very timid but were incredible to observe. As the number of people built up around the Mouse Lemurs we decided to move on and look for Chameleons. We were not disappointed, with the first one spotted within 10 metres. This was an O'Shaughnessy Chameleon ( Calumma oshaughnessyi ), one of 13 we spotted that night. We also saw Blue Legged Chameleons ( Calumma crypticum ) and a Short Horned Chameleon ( Calumma brevicorne). The evening was rounded off with a Madagascan Bright Eyed Frog ( Boophis madagascariensis )Read more

  • Ranomafana Arboretum

    October 17, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A quick visit to a beautiful location. Established in 1984 by an American Botanist, this beautiful garden delivered in bunches. We were treated to Yellow Lipped Parsons Chameleons ( Calumma parsonni ), the largest species of Chameleon in the world. We also saw Greater Vasa Parrots ( Coracopsis Vasa ) fighting in a tree. Looking in the trees we also found 2 types of reed frog. We had the Betsileo Reed Frog ( Heterixalus Betsileo ) and the Starry Night Reed Frog ( Heterixalus alboguttatus )Read more

  • Anja Community Reserve

    October 18, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Between Ranomafana and Ranohira, we stopped off at the Anja Community Reserve. This is a community run reserve that has a large population of Ringtail Lemurs ( Lemur catta ). They are not tame but they are definitely tolerant of humans, resulting in ultra close encounters. We also got to see Oustalets Chameleons ( Furcifer oustaleti ) and an incredibly colourful locustRead more

  • Ranohira

    Oct 18–20, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Short stay in Ranohira. We arrived late after a mammoth drive, made worse by waiting in LONG lines for an ATM. The rooms are lovely, huge and cool which is nice. Outdoor showers are a feature of the room so I just had to test that out.Read more

  • Isalo National Park

    October 19, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Early start this morning to try and beat the heat. Our walk started with lots of action. Just a few minutes from the carpark we entered a picnic area and saw a troop of Ringtail Lemurs chasing away a Red Fronted Brown Lemurs. And if that wasn't good enough, just 10 metres away was a small group of Verrauxs Sifaka ( Propithecus verrauxi ), playing like naughty toddlers. We spent almost half an hour enjoying this spectacle before the Ring Tailed Lemurs once again chased away the Sifaka.
    After this we continued our journey up the hillside, stopping to admire the first waterfall, and the clear pool below. After this we continued up the steep sides of the canyon and reached the summit where we were treated to a 360°, panoramic vista that left us in awe
    The descent on the far side of this flat topped summit was treacherous, with the ground loose underfoot. It was truly worth it though when we reached the far side, beautiful waterfalls and two icy cold pools. I couldnt resist those cool waters and took a swim, allowing the waterfall to massage my tired shoulders - absolute bliss. After sun drying we started the hike back to the car. On the way we were shown a couple of Long Eared Owl Chicks, fluffy, tired and miserable seems to describe them best
    Read more

  • Zombitse Vohibasia National Park

    October 20, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Leaving Ranohira and heading towards Ifaty on the South West Coast, I begged Mamy to stop at Zombitse National Park as I had heard this was home to the Standings Day Gecko (Phelsuma standingi). When we got there it was one of the driest forests I had ever seen. Sandy soil, densely packed with desiccated trees and thorn scrub. It was almost impossible to stray from the path to explore the surrounding bush. Surprisingly there was a large number of Chameleons and Day Geckos, including the beautiful Standings. We also got to see night active Sportive Lemurs, blinking owlishly in the blinding sunlight. We only had the briefest hour before getting back in the bus, but we were not disappointed here. We carried on towards what would be our last new location of this trip, the seaside town of Ifaty on the Mozambique Channel. When we arrived at the Ifaty Beach Club Resort, we were greeted by two tame Vasa Parrots (Coracopsis nigra), a species that we had so far only seen in the distance whilst at the Ranomafana ArboretumRead more

  • Ifaty Beach Club Resort

    Oct 20–22, 2024 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Time for some rest and recuperation, and what a stunning place to do that. This resort is the definition of on the beach, with the warm, shallow waters of the Mozambique Channel running to the distant shores of mainland Africa. Here the food was good, the pools were cool and the beds were the size of a small country. Even with the relaxation time we still found the time to visit the local spiny forest. Here we were greeted by scores of Three Eyed Lizards (Chalaradon madagascariensis), Madagascan Collared Iguanas (Oplurus cyclura) and yet more Standings Day Geckos (Phelsuma standingi). We also got to see Hedgehog Tenrecs, not an actual hedgehog, but a unique species that has evolved to fill the same niche as hedgehogs do elsewhere in the world. This would be the spiritual end of our amazing trip, as we only have the long journey home after this. Madagascar has been all that I had hoped for, there were times that the poor roads and theRead more

    Trip end
    October 24, 2024