• Susan and Jim's Travels
  • Susan Halpin
  • Susan and Jim's Travels
  • Susan Halpin

Camino de Santiago

Et 61-dagers eventyr av Susan and Jim's Travels & Susan Les mer
  • Villava, just outside of Pamplona

    24. september 2022, Spania ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    A nice walk down the Rio Arga valley this afternoon, mostly no rain. We walked without raincoats until the sprinkles got heavy. Then as soon as we put on raincoats, the rain stopped and the sun would peak out.

    We had one last steep hill climb before descending to Villava, a suburb of Pamplona. We met a tiny French woman from Paris climbing the hill. She is 80 years old carrying her stuff in a reusable shopping bag and one hiking stick. She and her friend are walking to Logrono, at least a week away.

    We arrived at Pension Obel, which is right above Bar Obel!

    Two beers are being consumed, then a trip to the laundromat around the corner.
    Les mer

  • Pamplona

    25. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our first "rest day". We slept in until almost eight. A leasurely breakfast at a small cafe up the street from our Pension.

    Then a slow 3.6 km walk into Pamplona, crossing the Rio Arga on an ancient bridge. A short walk around the old city wall and through the gates. This weekends festival is still going on, mostly vendors tents, so many things to buy, so little room in Sue's pack.

    Now sitting in Bar del Castillo enjoying the beautiful weather and people watching....
    Les mer

  • Rest Day in Pamplona

    25. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We walked about 2.5 miles this morning from Villava to Pamplona & arrived around noon. There was a religious festival taking in the city place all weekend. By early afternoon the city was full of people, lots of families! There were several parades with bigger than life-size characters leading the parades. It was fun to watch the children enjoy the festivities. After checking in to our hotel we explored the old city. We walked around Taconera Gardens which is Pamplona's oldest park documented since the 16th century. The flowers are still beautiful around here. As we walked about we couldn't believe we ran into our Camino friends as the city was packed with lots of people for the festival. We ended our day eating dinner together. Even as we were walking back to the hotel & it was getting dark some families were still enjoying hanging out in the city.Les mer

  • Over Alto del Pardon, down to Uterga

    26. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We made it over the ridge, full of windmills, and down the other side. Lunch in Utera, with new friends Jim and Sandy, formerly of Boston. They sold their house and cars, and now travel permanently!

  • Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    26. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    3 things I learned from walking today:
    #1 uphills &;downhills are always easier when walking & talking to a friend.
    Today we enjoyed meeting Sandy & Jim who lived in Boston for 30 years & now travel the world. We also had a lovely dinner with them tonight. Today was our longest day in terms of miles walking -- 15 miles, but the walk didn't feel so long & was much easier as we chatted!

    #2 churches are beautiful and give me peace because they are so old & have withstood the test of time.
    We haven't been in many churches since we've been here because they haven't been open.
    I read that there aren't enough priests to cover the churches & many priests are responsible for taking care of dozens churches so they aren't open. However, today we were able to go inside 2 as we walked. Statues and words of wisdom, give me hope. I am hearing church bells ringing as I write this post.
    #3 The movie "The Way" was pretty accurate in how beautiful the Alto del Perdon is. We climbed up the top of a steep hill to see these unique metal sculptures.
    Les mer

  • Uterga to Puenta la Reina

    26. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Our longest walk yet today, 23.7 kilometers to Puete la Reina. Time went by so fast as we walked and talked with fellow Pilgrims Jim and Sandy. But we are tired now.

    We found another Fronton today.

    We also found several fields of dead black sunflowers, it took us a few minutes to realize what we were looking at!

    Waiting for a washing machine to finish while sit on the "Chilling Deck" of Albegue Puenta. Having a beer and wine, then dinner when clothes are dry.
    Les mer

  • Puenta la Reina to Mañeru

    27. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Early start today, breakfast at the albegue was coffee and toast. Nothing good open in town yet, so we just starting walking and ate yesterday's left over apples on the trail.

    First over the famous bridge, walking in a list mist, but no rain just damp. One steep climb before our stop.

    5 km to Mañeru, where we found a good bar with food and cafe con lèche. Mmmmm.......
    Les mer

  • Cirauqui, Lorca and Villatuerta

    27. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We have arrived in our destination for tonight, Villateurta, about 18km of walking. We passed through two more hilltop villages. The descent from Cirauqui was on an ancient Roman road and bridge over the stream in the valley.

    Before Lorca we walked under a canal, see photos.

    We walked with a very nice woman, Annabelle, from Majorca. There is a picture of her on a bridge with Sue. It was nice to be with her when Lorca sounded an emergency horn, followed by a PA announcement in Spanish. We asked if we need to take shelter! She laughed and said, "No they are just telling the town that the new Covid vaccines are available tomorrow". Whew!!!!

    Our albegue tonight is beautiful, newly renovated building in yet another hilltown, just opened last summer. Sue and I are relaxing in the common room with a bottle of vino Tonto and some snacks, while our laundry is in the washer.
    Les mer

  • Puerta la Reina to Villatuerta

    27. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I'm going to do this post backwards from where we are now to where we started this morning. We are in the coolest albergue tonight. Abergues are lodging that have large dorm-style rooms and also a few private rooms, often with shared bathrooms & showers. Kitchen and spaces to relax with others are also common.

    Albergues are fairly inexpensive & usually very basic. This albargue is lovely. Recently renovated & decorated very creatively. The owners shared their story with us. All of the furniture was left behind or purchased at used furniture places. Just feels welcoming, homey & comfortable after a tiring day.

    We met up with Jim & Sandy after lunch they walked with us our last 3 miles.

    Found out the berries we've been seeing along the road are actually the berries that Sambuca is made from. Also saw a huge field of asparagus!

    The soil through much of today's walk is very red and clay-like. There are lots of grapes going here. We're not into Rioja country yet though. Just as aside, the local wines are very good in this Navarre region. The are light & the alcohol content is much less than what we have when we buy red wines at home.

    Met Annabell formerly after we passed each other for the hundredth time over the past 3 days.

    We left before the sun was fully up at 8am this morning. Albergues tend to want their pilgrims out early so they can clean & prepare for the next wave of pilgrims that will be spending the night.
    Les mer

  • On the Old Camino

    28. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our Albegue host Jordi encouraged us to walk the Old Camino, through the hills above the valley. The route changed in the 1200,'s, when the Monastery on the hill complained to the King of Navette, too many Pilgrims we're walking to Santiago. The route was changed to the valley.

    This morning we hiked through the hills, past a boat load of sheep and great views.

    We took a short detour, half mile, Down to the valley route, tho visit the Irache Wine Fountain.

    It is 5 O'clock some where!

    Back up to the Old Camino, then on to our next stop. A short day today, only about 12 km I think, with the detour.
    Les mer

  • More Old Camino to Azqueta

    28. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After our stop at the Blacksmith shop, we hiked back up to the Old Camino and hiked 3 or 4 kilometers until the turnoff from Azqueta, our stop for today.

    It is a very tiny town, only one Alberque, and it is the only place in town that serves dinner too. We had a quick lunch at the bar/cafe, then check-in at La Perla Negra ( no sign of Captain Jack Sparrow yet.

    The last two days we have been steady approaching a pyramid shaped hill. As we got closer, we has it has a castle on top and we began to fear our village was up there. Fortunately, we are at the bottom of the big hill.
    Les mer

  • Azqueta to Los Arcos

    29. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We had a great breakfast at La Perla Negra ( never saw Jack Sparrow), granola, yogurt, fresh fruit, cheese, plus the usual toast and jam. Plus big coffee mugs, instead of tiny espresso cups. And Helena encouraged us to put apples and bananas in our pockets.

    Weather is wet, but not bad. Heavy mist early this morning . Followed by occasional light drizzle, but no heavy rain!

    Another shorter day of walking, little more than 14 km to Los Arcos. Just one village other village, a 2km climb to Villamayor de Montjardin at the base of the big hill. There was a Fronton there!

    Then a 12 km walk through an isolated valley with hay fields, vineyards, olive groves, and asparagus fields. There were signs of wild fires from August here, about 1.5 miles of hillside were black trees with no undergrowth!

    We made it to Los Arcos for lunchtime!
    Les mer

  • Walking Through the Fields to Los Arcos

    29. september 2022, Spania ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    One of our first stops on our drizzly, 14km walk this morning was a little town Villamayor de Monjardin. There was a church with a big steeple bell. It reminded me that we learned from other pilgrims that the bells we are hearing from the churches along the Camino are not real bells. They are recorded bell chimes that are sent out over a loud speaker....kind of disappointing! I didn't want to believe that is was true, but this morning when the bells rang & I watched, there was no movement at all by the bells. Our walk was pretty uneventful, lots of brown pastures. We did see hills that had been burned by the forest fires this summer.

    The highlight of the day was running into Patsy & Kevin. They were the first friends we made on this adventure back when we all were in Paris waiting to board the TGV. It has been 3 days since we have crossed paths with them and we rjust happened to run into each other as they were ending their day in Los Arcos. They are also staying at the same hotel we are tonight.
    Les mer

  • 10k to Viana

    30. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A long climb over a high ridge west of Torres del Rio, then a long descent into a valley, a second ridge, and down to Viana. Rain, then sunshine, now back to clouds.

    Found Café LaRua and having a late lunch.Les mer

  • Rainbow Connection Los Arcos to Logrono

    30. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    There is an upside to a day of drizzling rain, RAINBOWS! We saw many rainbows today on this leg of the Camino.

    We also saw many vistas thar reminded me of patchwork quilts, with crops of grapes, olives, asparagus and I'm not sure what else. We also saw a different variety of grape growing that is a bushier and the grapes are tiny.

    Happy we are in an AC Marriott for the next 2 nights. No walking tomorrow!We'll have tomorrow to explore the city of Logrono.
    Les mer

  • Logroño

    30. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Not much to report of the end of our day.

    While eating at Café La Rua, the skies opened up. It started raining Gatos y Perros! We were exhausted. So the last 4+ miles of our 17 mile walk, became a bus ride into the city.

    But we made it to Logroño. We have left the Navarre region (no more Frontons) and have entered the Rioja region.

    We are recovering with a Rioja prescription medication.

    Tomorrow is a day off in Logroño.
    Les mer

  • Logroño walkabout

    1. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Just a few shots during our day off in Logroño today, mostly "Old City" around the Cathedral and inside the church.

    We found St Patrick's Pub earlier today, then found it again later on. We are now having a spiritual experience here across the plaza from the Cathedral doors!

    Sláinte

    Adding the bells of the Cathedral during our dinner. It made dinner conversation tough

    !
    Les mer

  • 2 Nights in a Mariott in Logrono

    1. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    What a treat it has been to be in a nice hotel for the past 2 nights! Today we took a break from walking the Camino. I feel like a new person. We have clean laundry & are rested. We did do a lot of walking today exploring the old part of the city of Logrono. The weather was perfect, sunny & mid 70s. We were outside walking all day. There were lots of children out with their parents. Parents were socialing with their friends & the kids were entertaing themselves playing card games or chasing pigeons. One of the highlights in the old city was visiting the Cathedral of Santa M de LA Rondanda. We got smoothies, gelato, beer and ate a delicious dinner out on the city Square tonight. There are many tourists here, it's going to be a hopping Sat night!

    All day long we kept bumping into Camino friends we have walked with or eaten with. We all forget each other's names, but there is a real sense of community.
    Les mer