This morning we walked around the ottoman era city of Berat, which is a UNESCO heritage site. It's a jumble of ottoman houses in a river valley overlooked by a citadel which has Illyrian foundations, Roman bits, mediaeval churches and Ottoman walls and mosques - a right jumble - plus its still lived in. The earliest church dates to the thirteenth century and the citadel includes a huge Roman cistern and tunnel down to the river to provide fresh water. One of the churches is now a museum of icons dating from 15C to last century.Read more