• Catalhuyuk

    19 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We woke up this morning to grey skies and light rain. The rain had stopped by the time we said goodbye to our lovely hotel but it was still dull.
    We had a 4 hr drive to Konya stopping on the way at a large well preserved caravanseray dating from the Seljuk period about 1200 ad.
    The final archaeological site of Catalhuyuk was supposed to be a highlight of the tour. It is the earliest known town settlement dating from 8000bc until 6200bc. It is thought to have between 5000 and 8000 inhabitants at its height who lived in mud brick houses with no streets between them. They accessed their homes through holes in the roof and ladders.
    It was a great disappointment. Apparently the earliest, largest and most significant of the 2 mounds excavated has been closed to visitors for 2 years as its protective roof is considered unsafe. Meanwhile they have built a fancy big visitor centre and are constructing expensive raised walk ways. The mound we were able to visit was small as they have only uncovered 10% of it and was very unclear in the remains. Most of the wall paintings have been removed to Ankara museum (where we saw them) leaving only sandbags to protect the mud brick walls. It was such a sad end to a fascinating archaeological trip.
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  • Frescoes in Goreme open air museum

    18 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    We came to Cappadocia several years ago. It was April and it snowed heavily. When we visited the open air museum it was just raining but very cold so seeing it again today in blazing sunshine was a treat.
    The open air museum is a natural valley eroded by the weather which was used by the first monks in the 4c ad. They carved monasteries and churches in the soft rock and lived there. In the 8-9 centuries they painted the walls with geometric patterns then from 10c painted figures on the walls. Finally in the 11c they plastered the walls and covered them with frescoes illustrating bible scenes.
    We visited 6 churches covering the different styles. You are not allowed to take any photos inside so these are examples downloaded from the Internet.

    St Basil - painted panels including saints George and Theodore who look very similar

    Elmali (apple)church - has patches of the 10c geometric painting and many frescoes from 11c

    Yilani (snake) church - painted panels

    Karanlic (dark) church - walls covered in frescoes on a navy background, fabulous scenes very well preserved

    Carikli (sandal) church - similar to dark church but less well preserved

    Tokal(buckle) church - the largest and most richly decorated with more detailed frescoes. They are currently being cleaned and restored and it was interesting to watch.

    A very rewarding morning despite the huge crowds from all nationalities.
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  • Urgup

    17 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Our mini bus has fantastic wi-fi!. It hasn't been working till now but they fixed yesterday so now we have good Internet access while we are travelling, and I was able to upload up the blog pictures for the last few days as we were going along.

    The rest of the group are going on a bus tour around cappadocia today but having done that before we have opted out. The hotel here is really good, very smart and it has a pool, so we will have a rest day. Maybe just a little walk around the town of Urgup.

    It is a boutique cave hotel created out of caves that people and their animals used to live in. Each room has been individually converted to beautiful suites and they are all different. Ours has a sitting room with 2 divan sofas, a hamam with marble slab for your massage, a bathroom with jacuzzi bath and a big bedroom. Quite palatial! The pool is lovely and we spent the morning lying in the sun and swimming.
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  • Ozkonak underground city

    16 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Pretty much everywhere in Cappadocia, because of the deep layers of volcanic ash now turned to stone, all the houses and villages have dug huge complicated rooms, corridors and houses underground. The one we went to is quite small but still interesting. (Last time we were here we went to one much bigger and more complicated). They served as somewhere to hide if they were attacked, as well as storage space for food.Meer informatie

  • Hattusa

    15 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Hattusa is one of the highlights of the trip for us. We know of it as the capital of the Hittite empire from around 1700 BC to 1200BC when it was destroyed and the Hittites "disappeared ". But we have now learned that it was much more than that and the Hittites didn't disappear but moved south towards Syria and were no longer significant.
    Hattusa was the capital for a tribe called the Hattians who were indigenous in Anatolia before the Hittites moved in ( probably from central Asia) and took over. They were fierce warriors ( eg. Fighting Ramses to a draw at Kadesh) and built their capital with strong defensive walls. But they adopted the gods and practices of those that conquered or allied with and ended up with a pantheon of hundreds of gods.
    The site was both wonderful and disappointing. Wonderful in the size, location and scale of the place but disappointing in that most of the sculptures and carvings have been removed to museums.
    We toured the site in the minibus as its so vast stopping at temples (of which the are 32), gates (we visited 3) and the Royal acropolis. The site has a small museum but the best bits are in Ankara that we saw yesterday.
    We spent the night in a simple rural hotel with a view over the site.
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  • Ankara museum

    14 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We spent the morning in the Ankara museum. Its quite a small museum in a beautiful 15th c ottoman Palace and, like all the museums we've been to here, is well thought out and presented. It contains a lot of the artifacts from the places we visited before, along with a wealth of Hittite material from sites we will visit tomorrow.

    After that, a drive to the site of Gordion, a phrygian city at its heights in about 800 BC. The city is named for king Gordius, and surrounded by huge tumuli, one of which the King's. His son was king Midas, of the turning everything to gold fame. In addition, its the city where Alexander the great cut the famous knot defending the city using his sword.

    The Gordius tumulus is open to the public we went in saw the huge wooden burial chamber in side, made of whole cypress trees,,! The local museum, also small but beautifully presented , contains all of the grave goods, but his body which was found in place during the excavation in now missing. Also, there is a pebble mosaic, from the 9th c BC, said to be the oldest ever found.
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  • Gaziantep

    12 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    From Sanliurfa we took our bus to the banks of the Euphrates and a hours river trip before having lunch. On the river trip we could see the remains of a seljuk and roman fort dating to the first century AD. When the dam was built many villages and towns were flooded, in particular the town of Zeugma, from which spectacular mosaics were saved and which are now in the museum in Gaziantep and we will see tomorrow. Some however were in an roman villa above the water level and are still in situ.

    Along the drive we passed through great fields of tobacco and cotton, and vast plantations of pistachio trees. This area is renowned for its pistachios and when we go for a walk through the grand bazaar tomorrow we plan to buy some, along with some baklava, another speciality of the city.
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  • Sanliurfa museum

    11 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    This morning we were supposed to take a trip to a town called Harran, but we opted out. The sites in the town were damaged in the earthquake and are either rebuild anew, or levelled and built over. Half of our group went anyway, but we had a pleasant morning in our room reading and doing crosswords, which seemed a nice relaxation after all our recent site visits. When they came back we all went out for lunch at local restaurant with some really good turkish food, followed by the city museum.

    This museum is only 9 years old, and is excellent, but absolutely HUGE. Amongst other things it contains the finds from the excavations at Gobekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe so there was lots to see and really we could have stayed all day, but we needed to also visit the mosaic museum.

    The mosaic museum is based around the mosaics found from a roman Palace dating from the 1st and 2nd centuries A D, . The mosaics are still shown in place where they found. They are exquisite, and made from very small and fine tessera, and show animals, birds and scenes from mythology.

    Finally we went to see the cave where Abraham was supposed to have been born and the pool where he was thrown into the fire and saved by God by creating the pool of water.
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  • Sanliurfa

    10 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Two incredible neolithic sites today,

    We started off by going to Gobekli tepe, and on the way seeing the massive Ataturk dam on the river Euphrates . The archaeological site was excavated from 1995 until today and remains one of the earliest human constructions, dating from 9500 BC to around 8000 BC. It consists of a number of circular structures cut into the bedrock and containing rings of stone columns inscribed with animals, birds and human figures. The columns were T-shaped. This area is in the heart of the fertile crescent so central to development of early civilisation. The main site seems to have been used as a meeting or religious site, and some residential sites have been found around it, but it's not known if they represent a domestic settlement or just for guardians of the site. We should see many of the artifacts on our museum visit tomorrow. While we were there , there was a team from the Discovery Channel filming for a programme to be broadcast next year - we'll have to look out for it! Work continues!

    The second site at Karahan tepe was only discovered recently with excavations starting 5 years ago. It's a bit later than Gobekli tepe, from 8500 BC. It is more clearly a settlement site with domestic tools and artifacts - all stone, both these sites predate ceramics and metals. There are also many columns in the circular areas, some T-shaped, but also many phallus-shaped. We were able to meet and discuss with the site director some of his interpretations about the site which was really interesting. Looking down from the top of the tel, it was easy to see other rings and marks in the surrounding land so I think they will be working there for many years to come. We weren't allowed to take pictures of some of the site because it hasn't been published yet.
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  • Earthquake and wildlife

    10 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    This whole area was one of the worst affect by the big earthquake of last year, along with northern Syria. Over 100,000 people were killed and millions left homeless. A lot of work has been done to start to recover but many people are still living in temporary portcabin-like homes. In the cities there are many city blocks where the ruins have been razed down but which are still heaps of rubble, and some high-rise buildings still have the top floors open and ruined. However there is lots of new construction going on. But the most noticeable fact is that many high rise buildings DID survive - those that complied with the regulations for earthquake proofing.

    As we drive through the countryside and hills we see bits of local wildlife. Yesterday we stopped by the side of the road to watch a family of gazelle - a adult male and female and a couple of kids. Today we saw some desert foxes. Very handsome!
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  • Adiyaman and Mount Nimrud

    9 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Another early start to get an internal turkish flight from Istanbul to Adiyaman, way down in the south east part of the country, then a long winding journey by bus over the mountains to Mount Nimrud, to see the colossal heads we put in the photo of this blog trip. We stopped on the way to see a really nice small roman bridge over the river, and climbed up the mountain (2,200 metres high). It was a tough, rough climb, the guide book say takes 20 to 30 mins, we did it in about an hour!

    The top of the mountain is a huge tumulus of King Antiochus, who surrounded it with huge statues of gods and himself, although over the years the statues have fallen and now only the heads stick up.
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  • Istanbul

    8 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We were woken during the night by a massive thunderstorm with lighting so bright you could see it despite the heavy curtains and closed eyelids, and with a tremendous downpour of rain, and great claps of thunder that seemed to shake the whole city. So no surprise that we got wet in our travels around the city this morning.

    We started with a visit to the old city walls, built up from roman times to byzantine and ottoman times, followed by a wonderful church dating to the 13th century and completely covered by magnificent mosaics and frescoes. We've been there a couple of times before but that doesn't matter, it's still breathtaking.

    One of the most popular sites in the city is the huge cistern, where roman and byzantine aquaducts bring fresh water into the city and its stored in underground reservoirs. After lunch we spent a couple of hours in the archaeological museum, stopping, now in hot sunshine, to buy a bag of hot roasted chestnuts on our way back to the hotel.
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  • Arrival in Istanbul

    7 september 2024, Turkije ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Long day - taxi at 3 a.m., but trip itself was uneventful. We arrived at the brand new Istanbul Airport which is wonderful, quiet peaceful and efficient, we were out with our bags in no time at all. After checking in to the hotel we walked to the spice market which is just down the street in the centre of the city, and afterwards went for an early dinner at a restaurant we know next to the aghia Sofia mosque ( it used to a cathedral, then a museum and then a mosque) . The setting for the restaurant is wonderful - down inside a medieval water cistern and every time before we have loved it. Since then its been done up and seems now to cater to Japanese and Chinese tour groups. The food is still great but the prices are stunningly and eye-wateringly expensive. Ah well , , , times change! At least on our walk back we bought our first batch of baklava. Still good!Meer informatie

  • Madrid

    19 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We left Merida at midday to get the train to Madrid. But as with the journey coming out, the first half was a replacement bus. It was perfectly comfortable and connected easily with the train. Then a short walk to our hotel. The timings were such that there wasn't a train that would arrive for today's flight so we had to stay tonight around the train station and then get a taxi to the airport in the morning. Annoying, but manageable!Meer informatie

  • Last day in Merida

    18 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Until today, the weather has been rather disappointing. A warm 20c to 24c but mostly cloudy with occasional flashes of sunshine. But today the sky was blue and the sun shone all day and we spent much of the afternoon on the roof terrace.
    But not before our last bits of sightseeing. A 20 min walk takes you to another Roman Bridge ( over a tributary of the Guadiana) from which you can see the remains of an enormous aqueduct that brought water to the city from 10km away. Whilst not as wonderfully preserved as the one in Segovia, it is still a very impressive sight - and nearly every tower had a storks nest on top.
    The last two sites on our list were a HUGE, over 400m long and over 100 m wide, circus used for chariot races, and the Basilica of Santa Eulalia - a martyr in Roman times and the patron saint of Merida. Dating from just 20 or 30 AD, the circus was Impressive from its size, certainly by far the biggest I've seen , it took me nearly an hour to walk around it. The basilica was small and unremarkable, with Roman remains in the under crypt, but with visigoth foundations dating to 5th c AD. They used a convenient roman temple as an portico.

    Tomorrow afternoon we return to Madrid ready for our flight home on Monday.
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  • A day of museums

    17 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This morning we spent in the museum of Roman art. Its a very modern building and is huge, on four floors, and while it was being built they found a roman villa and cemetery underneath. The museum is very easy to get around but for a new museum the information on the exhibits is strangely lacking, often telling you very little, even to the dates.

    On to a much smaller museum of visigoth merida. So small i don't know why they didn't just put it all in one room of the other museum.
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