Tanzania
Rukwa

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    • Day 475

      Kitchen garden

      February 14, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      The smoke blackened room used as a kitchen is so uninviting that food is prepared on open fires outside.
      Susanna is seen here boiling beans whilst Anastasia is butchering some fish on the old bed springs serving as a kitchen table.
      In Africa, all sorts of hangers-on gravitate to the kitchens when food is available and this mother with her two offspring are enjoying their victuals provided by the monks meagre food allowance. Apparently our host Bro Gasper keeps some of the allocation to fuel his 4WD so that he can visit his mates in Sumbawanga. This has caused tensions with the German architects from supertecture who are actually doing the building work and feel that the addition of vegetables would give them a better balance diet and who believe that occasional fruits would not be a luxury: especially since their contract with Mvimba Monastery stipulates that they should be fed.
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    • Day 451

      Mvimba monastery school

      January 21, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Well, after my relaxing morning I discovered that Bro Gasper was not there, but another bus ride away in Kipili. I also found that Bro Clement was in fact the headmaster of a school of 700, including a hundred orphans who boarded. Before catching the bus at 11:30 he gave me a tour of his school.
      I didn't ask about the Chinese writing on the wall adjacent to the playing fields, except to discover it was the translation of the Latin beside it, but I am intrigued and will investigate.
      The government is trying hard to encourage people to switch from cooking fuels, from charcoal to gas. These three bean cookers caught my eye as the gas conversion (look at the window) reminded me of the bunsen burners in school biology labs.
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    • Day 481

      Big House

      February 20, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Since my host has spent the last 4 weeks away from the site I have not progressed far in helping sort out the project management, so I hitched a ride with the Abbot back to the main monastery so make a report.
      As one might expect, the monastery is populated with monk eys. There are only a few priests and many Brothers all of whom are generous in their welcome and hospitality.
      This place is a model of how the Kipili site should be, with agriculture, animal husbandry, workshops and vocational training facilities as well as monastic buildings. Why it isn't has been revealed to me, obliquely.
      It seems that Bro Gasper used to be the Procurator, (the equivalent of an Operations Manager,) here until a year ago. Then his inability to handle money in a transparent way provoked the Abbot into sending him to Kipili. Since he has no talent for management and feels he has been demoted, he avoids the place as much as possible. The Germans have noticed as well as me! Now they are stuck because they do not know what to do with him, and the African culture in a Benedictine environment does not allow anyone to make suggestions to the Abbot who is assumed to know everything about everything.
      My documents about improving processes has therefore been referred back to Bro Gasper for action, which nobody expects to eventuate.
      Since the handling of the money entrusted to him has been used in a way that I can only describe as dishonest, in Australia it would be illegal and the Charities Trust would investigate, I would have thought the Abbot would attend to the spiritual side - the immoral behaviour - without delay. But this is Africa; and the Catholic Church has survived for this long with a practical attitude to peccadilloes. And maybe the Abbot is doing something in a round-a-bout way, who knows?
      Benedictine communities belong to Congregations, which start with one Abbey grow by spawning off-shoots. This one belongs to a German Congregation, the Missionary Benedictines of St Ottilien, founded in 1884 which has spread into 55 Houses around the world . The procurator from HQ, one Fr Anastasius, has just been to audit the activities here and left rolling his eyes. For example, an African is responsible for looking after his family, and if he has money in his hand is expected to share some of it. The idea that the money is not his is beyond anyones's comprehension: I see the cash, its in your hand, therefore you have money, therefore you share it. Just because you joined another group does not relieve you of your duty so be sanguine. Some Brothers with less intellectually developed notions even question why they can't have a young girl to look after them.
      It all sounds as if stories of the Medieval Church had come to life and I anticipate a large meal with choice wines at the home of a Tanzanian Prince Bishop. Well, maybe I'm just having funny dreams after an unrestricted diet of beans, ugali and rice.
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    • Day 484

      Roadside halt to be.

      February 23, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      On the way back to the airport at Mbeya I Stopped at Sumbawanga, where Mvimba have a house and the secondary school, (see photos from 20th Jan). This time in true cargo cult style, the brothers offered a good meal, wine and free lodging as I was travelling with the German moneybags who had to placated with rich offerings so that he would keep returning.

      One of the projects dear to the heart of the Bro Superior - Nicholas, the bloke in charge - is the construction of a truck stop / service area on the main road heading East. We spent an hour and a half getting there, subjected most of the journey to an excited expose of his concept. In summary, he wants to build a super-loo, (sic), surrounded by a restaurant, motel, rest area, car wash, market and a secondary school for girls with babies. The multi-story loo, though a little potty for some, will be a wind powered, content rich and flush-full of various stimulating and attractive designs to tickle the imagination (at least); thereby drawing visitors to the edifice like flies to its contents.

      Attached to the complex is a large agricultural expanse. Capitalising on the output of the former to feed the crops, the range and variety of plants will extend beyond the existing sunflowers and maize to include school dinners and a tree plantation - and raw materials for the superloo.

      It all seems so obvious when explained like that; cause, effect and solution all in one facility. Hopefully it will be equally compelling to the 2 buses and 3 cars per hour that use the road currently.

      We had fun in the group flying the German's drone around to measure the perimeter so that the architects could mull over Design focussed on Award Winning Colonic Vacation. Someone parked their wheelbarrow out along the road but I could not see any Irishmen so I left it. It was full of holes anyway.

      After flight above ground we decided to walk through the ground as the morning rain had loosened the surface nicely and we favoured enhancing by tactile stimulation the architects Vision. Perhaps studying the output of a Great Artist like Twoloos Lautrac might have been more productive, but instead we walked barefoot a couple of km, squidging warm, soggy mud and something else through our toes, down to the shallow lake where we lunched and had a siesta on an artificial hill above the primal ooze.
      Work on site has commenced but not very advanced yet, so instead of a visual of the above, be amazed at the at the guards' houses and marvel at the cattle. (Ah! Thats where the 'something else' came from.)

      Now don't poo-poo the concept too quickly. This is a country where only 30.2 % of households have, (to use the Governments words,) "improved toilet facilities", ie running water. It may be a novelty but it also fulfils a necessary utility. Remember the words of the sage: "If you can do do do."
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    • Day 464

      Low point of my trip

      February 3, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      From being under the high point of Africa, Mt Kilimanjaro, I am now at Kipili beside the low point. The Great Rift Valley here is submerged by Lake Tanganyika, (named from Tanganika, "the great lake spreading out like a plain",) whose bottom in this southern basin lies 642 meters below sea level; a depth of 1470 m. About 18% of the world’s unfrozen surface freshwater is held in it.

      The area first came to the attention of Europeans when the famous Welsh actor, Richard Burton stumbled upon it with his fellow thespian, Richard Speke, whilst making "Mountains of the Moon". More recently, you might have seen a Monty Python version called "Pole to Pole" where a slightly stunned Michael Palin sails the length of the lake on the ferry, MV Liemba. Rumour has it that David Livingstone was also on location here, but I can find no mention of any film of that in IMDb.

      The scenery is as pleasant as you would expect; but doesn't reveal it's uniqueness, so here are some "fun facts" for the next Trivial Pursuits game in your local pub.
      ⦁ It is the longest fresh water lake in the world and the second deepest after lake Baikal in Russia.
      [depth = 1433 m / 4700 ft; length = 677 km / 420 miles; width = 50 km/ 31 miles]
      ⦁ its somewhere between 9 to 12 million years old, though some claim the bottom waters may be over 20 million
      ⦁ the Rift Valley here has formed three basins without any drainage: the contents either evaporates or overflows
      ⦁ the lake surface may have fluctuated up to 300 meters lower at than it is today: with the high evaporation rate it rarely overflowed into the 320 km Lukuga tributary of the Congo River and the sea. On average water remains in the lake for 440 years.
      ⦁ Tanzania’s second largest river, the 475 km Malagarasi River, is older than the lake. It used to flow directly into the Congo River from the East but now is captured by the lake.
      ⦁ Life has not yet been found in the bottom 1200 meters of the lake as it is too high in hydrogen sulphide or too low in oxygen. But I'm haven't found anybody who has looked.
      ⦁ Unusually, the water in the lower depths is only 3° C colder than the 25° C surface temperature. Nobody knows why.
      ⦁ Winds can stir things up a bit, even causing 6m waves during storms; which helps stop bilharzia snails spreading but doesn't mix the layers of water up very much.
      ⦁ The nutrient carried into the lake is negligible; fish rely on algae fed by nutrients rising from the bottom.
      ⦁ There are over 350 species of fish, 95 % endemic, (4 predatory and 2 types of sardine,) as well as indigenous snails, shrimps and crabs. The lake's incredible diversity makes it an important resource for the study of speciation in evolution.
      ⦁ The locals say that the crocodiles - freshies not salties luckily - and hippos generally don't cause a problem except perhaps at dawn and dusk.
      ⦁ All the usual invasive plants, such as lantana, duckweed and the toon tree, can be found choking the shoreline. Surely some, like the coffee senna, the castor oil plant and my favourite, the Nile Cabbage could be harvested?
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    • Day 467

      What Stanley really said.

      February 6, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      The press are quick to spot a good line and render it more immediately resonant to local audiences. So it is with Henry Morton Stanley's famous quote of which Dr. Livingstone was the recipient.

      In fact he said, "Father Schynse, I presume” when his Emin Pasha Relief Expedition stopped in the neighbourhood of Bukumbi Mission in September 1889 to pick up linen, shoes and donkeys from the priests. Lacks impact though, since nobody has any idea of who Fr. Auguste Schynse was, hence the alteration.

      Bukumbi belonged to the Missionaries of Our Lady of Africa of Algeria better known as the "Pères Blancs" or "White Fathers", founded to feed and indoctrinate the many Arab orphans left after the Algerian famine of 1867. Unusually their vows insisted that they dressed like locals and ate the local cuisine.

      In 1878 ten missionaries left Algiers to convert the Arabs and negroes of Central Africa. A couple of previous attempts had ended in the guides massacring the caravans, but this time they got through, establishing posts at Lakes Victoria Nyanza and here by Lake Tanganyika. Unlike other missionaries who did everything they could to stop the valuable slave trade across Lake T and soon got forced out, the White Fathers bought as many as they could; and released them. Whether manumission was conditional on submission to the Pope I leave for you to decide.
      This ruin by Kipili was one of their centres as far as I can tell. It was closed over 50 years ago and abandoned. The local Bishop who owns the land wants to make it a tourist attraction but I think it is too far gone as nobody has even weeded the place since the priests left.

      More trivia to amuse and divert you.
      · the Pere Blancs are not a religious order according to Vatican rules. Individuals can own their own property; but they may use or dispose of it only at the direction of the superiors.
      · in their Rule, each house must contain not less than three members, which means you need many brothers to set up strings of missions across Africa.
      · they never changed from wearing Algerian Arab clothing: white gandoura, (cassock,) and burnous, (mantle).
      · rosary and cross are worn around the neck in imitation of the mesbaha of the marabouts.
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    • Day 455

      Typical Insectgram post

      January 25, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Ah! Protein!

      If I understood correctly this is called kumbi-kumbi.

      Imagine cooking a bean in its skin; and then sloughing off the skin and drying it a little. That is what it tasted like. Nothing much at all.Read more

    • Day 477

      Sisters

      February 16, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      About a kilometre away from the monks, three jolly Benedictine sisters have created a self-contained but still decrepit House and warmly welcome visitors.
      The big attraction at the moment is the huddle of 1 week old puppies with whom the cat has fraternal feelings. They keep pigs, chickens and a bowl of pigeons for nourishment and to sell the eggs. Behind the birds a mosquito net has been hung over the dog basket.
      One of the visitors is a German lady who has been trying to establish a micro-bank in a nearby town. She has returned because the capital her church had collected mysteriously disappeared. The ladies who received the funds used them as intended and paid back the loans, but the manager of the funds cannot explain where the money has gone. Africa!
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    • Day 481

      Head office

      February 20, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      The grounds cover an area of rich agricultural land about 3 by 4 km square. About 60% I would guess lies fallow for lack of manpower - and equipment.
      They have all the usual farm animals and also a crumbly cat. One Brother has started a salami factory leisurely extruding some tasty beef. They use pre-mixed German sausage spices so could do with a bit of spicing up! (Garlic, pepper etc)
      The new church is the Abbot's pride and joy. Just love the scaffolding.
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    • Day 483

      Centre for advancing backwards

      February 22, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Look up from the Monastery towards the hill in the distance: then gaze down in silent contemplation of the buildings from the site of a future meditation centre.
      The Man himself: Pambo Abbot of Mvimba glows brightly as he poses with an insouciant yet debon air on top of his rock on which he too wishes to build a church.
      The landscape up here is a primary pebble-dash, though the pebbles are quite large. In fact, with a little application it could be turned into an African mega-zen garden - eminently suitable for a retreat centre.
      Of course, there is no money for a project like this and the reason the Abbot is with us is to butter-up the German representative of supertecture who has been visiting and who is to be cajoled into finding donations. The monks descriptions of their ideas end up sounding like an advert for a French Village de Vacances, where impoverished street kids can bask in the healthy air, absorbing the peacefulness of the unspoilt countryside. I keep my mouth shut about the cost of getting to the place which would eliminate 99% of poor Tanzanian children since I know this is benevolence on display and really, they just want a church to brag about.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Rukwa Region, Rukwa, Mkoa wa Rukwa

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