Walking the Via de La Plata from Seville to Santiago Compostela 1000kms our biggest challenge yet Read more

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  • 12days
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  • Day 1

    Seville to Guillena

    March 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The day dawned beautiful. Bright blue skies, perfect walking weather.

    There are two options for day one, walk along the river to Santiponce or go by road via Camas. We decided to stick with the roads rather than risk getting caught by flooding along the river. As it turned out a wise move. Road walking is hard going but we made good time and dry shoes!

    Santiponce has a wealth of Roman antiquities and we visited the Monastery

    The Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo, founded in 1301 by Alonso Pérez de Guzmán and María Alonso Coronel on a site near the ruins of Itálica where, according to tradition, Saint Isidore of Seville was buried.

    In 1432, the Hieronymite Order replaced the Cistercians, carrying out a profound reform of the Monastery, which was reflected in the concept of monastic life and substantially in its decoration. In the mid-16th century, a reformist religious movement emerged in Seville, in which the friars of this Monastery participated. This led to the imprisonment of several monks and the flight of others from Spain, among them Casiodoro de Reina, author of the first translation of the Bible into Castilian, known as the Bear Bible.

    In this unique fortress monastery, with a double church, the Gothic style juxtaposes clear influences from Languedoc and Mudejar, in which the Almohad tradition is evident. In contrast to the Cistercian austerity, the Hieronymite monastery is decorated with mural paintings that possibly form one of the most remarkable collections in all of Spain. The monastery was expanded and enriched over the centuries, eventually boasting a tower, a bell gable, five cloisters, and, alongside the monastic quarters, the procurator's office, the inn, and the agricultural facilities typical of these institutions that sought to be self-sufficient. The medieval core's buildings are arranged around the Cloister of the Dead: churches, refectory, sacristy, chapter house, etc

    Archaeological Site of Italica

    The Roman city of Italica , located in present-day Santiponce , was founded by Publius Cornelius Scipio "The African" in 206 BC, in the context of the Second Punic War , he defeated the Carthaginians at the Battle of Ilipa and established a detachment of legionaries on the Cerro de San Antonio.

    It was the birthplace of the emperors Trajan, the first Roman emperor born in a province, and Hadrian , and during his reign (117-138 AD) it acquired the status of a colony, thus becoming administratively equivalent to a metropolis.

    Also the amphitheater which we couldn’t actually get into but could look over.

    After Santiponce you then go off road which felt so good until we hit the flooded spots. Mud and water. We managed to navigate round most of it by going up along the field edges, a bit soft in places but better than getting really wet feet. We encountered one walker who thought he’d be ok, all I can say is he was a muddy mess!!

    Lots of wild flowers and a field of cattle and a few donkeys, and two huge dogs which were fortunately behind a tall fence

    We are now in the town of Guillena having walked around 25 kms, the route was 21 but obviously the wandering around adds to the total.
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  • Day 2

    Guillena to Castilblanco

    March 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After what I can only call a rubbish nights sleep the day didn’t get any better. I managed to not tighten up the valve on my water bladder, filling my whole rucksack with water before we had even left the accommodation! Luckily all my clothes are in waterproof bags but stuff that wasn’t was soaked as was the back and straps of my bag. I was not happy!!

    The river crossing was too high today to ford so we had to go via the road until turning off up a really muddy track, not helped by overnight rain. I’m happy to say this didn’t last all day and we slowly climbed out and into the Cortijo del Chaparral meadows with grit pathways. It was such a relief to be sure footed again.

    The wildflowers today have been amazing and the terrain slowly ascending, we thought we may get wet at one point but it brightened which was a bonus. Saw some crazy cattle, brown heads and legs and what looked like white shirts and some fearsome horns.

    We met a few fellow walkers today, two who we came across yesterday. One in particular, Ben, kindly adjusted my rucksack straps for me, taking some of the shoulder strain off. So happy for that.

    Tomorrow walk to Almaden del La Plata (28 kms) will be fun - the forecast is for 55mm of rain ……
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  • Day 3

    Sitting tight

    March 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We have been advised that it is not possible to walk to Almaden de La Plata today due to severe flooding - waist height apparently. So we are sat in the warm and dry and will be collected by taxi laterRead more

  • Day 3

    Castilblanco to Almaden de la Plata

    March 17 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    29kms by car - No walking today. The hotel owner kindly took us by car to Almaden and got us checked in early to our hotel. It sort of feels like cheating but the fog/rain along the route was so thick and the park under water it made sense to stay safe. At the end of the day as another walker said “it’s YOUR Camino and you do what is best for you.”

    We managed to get out for a brief walk round, spotting nesting storks on the church towers, certainly a safe from predators spot. Back at the hotel we had just got in before the heavens opened again.

    Tomorrow walk is a long one 34.4kms - with several stream crossings which flood. We are awaiting confirmation of the situation but the forecast is currently 95% rain from now to 7am tomorrow - fun times
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  • Day 4

    Almaden to Monesterio

    March 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Today’s walk was going to be 34.4 kms but the power of nature determined otherwise.

    Our day started most enjoyable. Walking along through the Sierra Norte, jumping over or through the streams and culverts. Chatting to the animals. You would not believe how far in advance we could smell the billy goats, what a stinky lot. Cute lambs, donkeys, mules, ponies and horses. It was a delight. Until …… we came to a crossing that had us at the point of what the hell do we do now? We walked along the bank a bit but decided if we were going to cross then the concrete bridge was better than an uncertain river bed even if it looked shorter. Shoes and socks
    off, trouser legs off. Peter stepped in first it was immediately at his thighs, I hesitated then thought well it’s now or never. With walking poles we had some stability but the water pressure was immense. What felt like a lifetime was over quickly but I was shaking and so thankful not to have slipped in. We dried up and were just leaving when a young Canadian woman came along. We managed to talk her across but she said she
    wasn’t sure what she would have done had we not been there. Go deed for the day. The rest of the walk was reasonably uneventful until we reach El Real de La Jara. We had planned a coffee stop before continuing on to Monesterio when we met a German walker who had just been turned back by the police. Apparently they were not letting anyone walk on the Camino due to severe flooding so told him to get a taxi to Monesterio. We went in search of a taxi with him, ending up in a bar where one of the customers kindly called us a car. So our long walking day turned out to be cut short again. But we are safe and dry.
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  • Day 4

    When life gives you lemons

    March 18 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    You go out for lunch. As our walking day was cut short we decided to find somewhere good to eat. After wandering around for a bit we did a Google search and found Los Templarios - reviews looked good so we thought we’d give it a try.

    We were not disappointed. Smartly dressed waiters, classic ambience, but relaxed atmosphere. The menu was extensive and in Spanish, thank you Google translate. We decided what we would have with the help of some suggestions by our waiter. He chose well.

    Firstly a glass of Rioja along with fresh bread and a fruity olive oil, a platter of Iberico charcuterie. Followed by two dishes which we shared - carrillera Iberica al vino (pigs cheeks in a thick wine gravy and Pluma Iberica (pork shoulder grilled pink) with home cooked potatoes crisps, both were just so so tender. Next up came pudding - deep fried white chocolate fritters with caramel crisp ice cream and a cinnamon brioche with white chocolate ice cream. Then coffee just to finish this all off.

    A most enjoyable lunch for a very reasonable €85.90
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  • Day 5

    Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

    March 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    20 kms and it was dry all day!

    A day where we sort of walked where we were supposed to!

    After checking various places online last evening we discovered a detour in case the river crossing deemed to be impossible. It would take no longer but did involve a fair bit of road walking.

    Firstly we enjoyed the gravel/sandy farm tracks, spotting our first Iberico pigs - sows actually, who were happily rooting around but came to a call. Mostly the tracks were water/mud free with the odd exception but easy enough to cross over. Though once we left the borders of Monesterio we came to a more open terrain, less well maintained but passable.

    Lots of wildflowers today and oh so many huge brown slugs, they really are disgustingly gross. Many tadpoles in the ditches, if they all make maturity the frog population will be huge. We also spotted a few puff ball mushrooms and several hairy caterpillars. Birds of prey much in evidence too.

    We met some Dutch walkers that confirmed the river crossing was not an option so took the detour. It was a very quiet road, hardly any traffic but hard on the feet.

    There seems to be a lot of solar panels in this area, great areas just covered in them. Im guessing the land has no agricultural use or panels are more lucrative.

    Arriving in Fuente de Cantos we found a bar for a quick refresher and a sit down before hunting out our hotel.

    Once checked in we decided to head straight for lunch which they served from 1:40 - a good idea as no sooner were we seated than it seemed the whole world arrived. We enjoyed the menu of the day which was €12 each and we had
    Bread, glass of red wine, tuna salad, salmon (me), cuttlefish (him), cheesecake and coffee. I can understand why they were so busy.

    Whilst having lunch we watched the weather forecast which made for grim viewing. The whole of southern Spain has been hit by storm Laurence and hard on its tail is storm Martin. Looks like we will be walking wet for the foreseeable after tomorrow. Great as we will be walking in the Barros, which translates to MUD.
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  • Day 6

    Fuente de Cantos to Zafra

    March 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    24.2 kms + 2.2kms to avoid flooded stream

    It’s been dry today after a crazy night of rain and gale force winds. I really thought we were in for a rough day but by the time we had had breakfast the skies had cleared.

    The first part of today’s walk wasn’t too bad a bit wet in places but not as bad as it could have been. After we had reached Calzadilla de Los Barros we had to divert towards the main road for a while to avoid a swollen stream, the back on the VDLP for the remainder of the day. It was wet in places again but so much easier underfoot than tarmac!

    I think we are certainly getting used to the backpack weight, still not fun but not as bad as I thought it might be.

    On arrival in Zafra we headed straight to the hotel, showered and got to a late lunch. The hotel restaurant has a very good menu so we decided to eat in. We were not disappointed. The waiter was very attentive and Peter asked him for his recommendations and he basically chose our meal for us. It was so good. All courses were shared . The starter was a vegetable purée with roasted globe artichokes and Padron peppers drizzled with olive oil, served with fresh bread. Next we had Corbina fish which translates to sea bass or trout in a puréed sauce and tomatoes, again so good. Then we had a fillet of beef with roasted potatoes which was served in a dome of smoke, the taste was amazing, the steak melted in your mouth. A very good bottle of local red and a large bottle of water to drink. Walking really does make you thirsty. Next up was orange cake and coffee to finish. And the price …. €76
    We are now relaxing having repacked our bags for the morning and hoping that the forecast changes for tomorrow
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  • Day 7

    Zafra to Villafrance De los Barros

    March 21 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    21 kms - the day of orchids

    Today has been interesting. The forecast yesterday said rain all day and very strong winds. We woke to dry and windy. Fine with that. After a reasonable breakfast we finally worked our way out of Zafra. Signs were non existent at points and we had to rely on the written word. It was a considerable climb out of the town and a very sharp down (14%) on the other side. The Camino took us along through olive groves and almond orchards. The track mainly dry with the odd slippery patch and wet spots. Low grey clouds and very strong winds but no rain.
    Today was a feast for the eyes on the orchid front. So many different varieties. We passed a shepherd with his flock at one point through the orchards. So lovely to see this tradition of man and beast’s wandering together.
    We were about an hour and a half away from Villafranca when the rain came. Our new rain ponchos had their first outing. What I liked was the long sleeves and the long front. The rucksack gusset worked up to a point but as my bag is quite tall and the wind strong the fabric barely covered my behind so I got a bit damp. But the bag and contents was dry which I guess is more important.
    The wind was so strong at points I could feel the wind lifting me sideways.. no mean feat with a 10kg bag on my considerable frame!!
    We ended the day reaching our hotel at 1:30 and have enjoyed a good lunch.

    Time now to relax as we are too far out of town in this weather to go for a wander
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