Leaving Viluppuram

What a total immersion in India that isn’t catering to western tourists.

Last night I picked up a couple feet of tuberose garland at a flower stall because the bit we had before was dried out and I missed the heavenly scent. The woman sweeping the courtyard saw me carrying it out to the rickshaw and gestured that she’d put it in my hair for me, which is what women here do. I was so moved! She pulled clips and bobby pins out of nowhere to attach the garland to my hair. ☺️

Edited to add - breakfast chai at a tea stand. I think we are the only white people within miles. Fried savory fritter and savory “donut” called Vada with onion, cilantro and ginger in the dough.Read more