• Durgapur and a neat older hotel

    19 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Last night we stayed in Durgapur, a city on the Damodar river, a quite large river. Our hotel was called The Damodar Retreat. I would guess that it might have been built in the 30s - some details really reminded me of the Bastyr University building back home. We had room service dinner for the first time on this trip. We thought we were the only ones staying here, but we saw a cup of coffee being taken to another room this morning so we guessed there was one other person. We were thinking of “The Shining” last night for sure!

    We skipped the pool because it didn’t appear to have any sort of circulation system working, though the water was clear…

    Durgapur has the dirtiest air that we’ve experienced so far. Dusty and smoky. Despite the floor looking clean, when we walked barefoot in our room our feet got filthy. Durgapur is called “The steel capital of East India”, and heading out of town we saw black smoke coming out of stacks. And for the first time we saw cooling towers for nuclear plants! Three of them.
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  • Lunch at Salbon Dhaba in Sundara

    18 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 108 °F

    Day 10!! Can you believe it?! Look at how far we’ve come! Today we entered the state of West Bengal, the fifth out of six that we will drive through (Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal and Sikkim)

    We had another AMAZING lunch stop. It’s interesting to experience the differences in food and drink as we have come further north. Food has become spicier. Naan has appeared on the menus and porotta, my favorite bread offering, has disappeared. At least where we’ve been eating.

    We ordered basmati veg thali, which was a platter with rice and small bowls of various dishes and accompaniments. And paneer masala and a stuffed flat bread called Masala Kulcha. And the owner suggested that we try the signature drink of the area, Burhani, which is good for digestion. It seems to be a type of lassi or at least related, with yogurt, mint, chilis, salt and other spices. It was like nothing I’ve tasted before!

    And the bill totaled about $5 US.

    I forgot to mention last night - when we visited the hotel’s bar/lounge last night for a beer (Kingfisher Strong, maybe the best beer I’ve ever had because we were SO hot and tired), we were quickly shuffled into a little side room to have our beers. We thought that was a little weird, and I wondered if they don’t allow women to mix with strange men when drinking. Sure enough, soon another group of three with one woman were led into the room with us. We asked them if we were there because we were women and they confirmed my suspicion.
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  • Hottest day yet ends with a lovely hotel

    17 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    It was a serious scorcher today. From around noon or 1pm to about 4 or so it was just brutal on the road. Even “Spicy” our rickshaw was complaining a bit and needed a break in the shade to cool down for a bit mid-afternoon.

    Riding in the open-sided rickshaw means that we always have a breeze that at least dries us off even if the air is hot. But when we stop, yikes! We ended our day at our last beach stop. And it was SO hot and SO humid my shirt was soon soaked. Our hotel room has stellar AC. What a relief.

    We finally passed by a stand that sold the decorative pompom and tinsel tassels that I’ve been dying for that we see on trucks. So we blinged up Spicy a bit. The pompoms are put on trucks to ward off the evil eye and protect from harm. That works for me!

    We ended our day with a fantastic dinner that included local crab with marsala sauce. We had the crab dish and prawns and our bill totally about $10. Unbelievable! We met a friendly young electrical engineer who is staying here for work. He sat with us at dinner and we asked him all sorts of questions.

    I’ll add photos of the hotel and beach to this post in the morning when it’s light out.
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  • The Konark Sun Temple

    17 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    It’s hard to believe that this is day 9 of 14 of the Rickshaw Run!!

    Our end spot yesterday was a bit off track because we ended up deciding to visit the Konark Sun Temple this morning. I believe it’s the first UNESCO World Heritage site that we’ve ever visited! It was a very hot, crowded place, but once again we lucked out with a wonderful legit guide who saw us in the crowd and offered to guide us through.

    This Hindu temple was built in the 12th century, and the largest structure was actually later demolished by Muslims. All of the stone (guide said sedimentary stone) surfaces are intricately carved. There are 24 wheels, each with 8 spokes, and our guide explained that represents how the day is divided into 8 3-hour sections. at least in some of the wheels. He also showed us how you can tell time by where the shadow of the central stone hits in the circle.

    We felt badly that we were constantly saying “No” to people asking for photos/selfies with is, but we were afraid if we said yes to one person, we’d be there ALL day, and the guide confirmed that.

    Last night we stayed at a resort with lovely gardens that I found ahead on Expedia. The first two times we reserved hotel rooms via Expedia it worked like a charm. This time not so much. I reserved a “Deluxe Cottage with garden view” that was $84 - the most we’ve spent on lodging. But they put us in a 4th floor room that had seen better days, and said that the “garden view” was looking down out of the window. Luckily Eric had the patience to keep pushing, and they moved us to a lovely garden cottage. It really is amazing how well we can get along even with a massive language barrier.

    Now we are heading to stay tonight at the coast near Balasore, our last time on the coast before we head inland.
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  • Chhatrapur Fire Station visit!

    16 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 97 °F

    We were driving down the highway and noticed a fire station on the side of the highway! So hopped off and went back to take a look.

    Oh my gosh! We were treated like visiting dignitaries! The assistant chief took us to his office and we had quite the chat! The fire service looks like it’s culture is more like the military, and the firefighters live at the station.

    Eric now has a new Indian firefighter brother. We have his phone number if we have any troubles in this state (Odisha). He presented his contact info to us in the front of a beautiful hard-cover planner/diary. Incredible!
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  • Haritha hotel and beach in daylight

    16 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    This was the most welcoming hotel we have stayed at so far on our trip, and we hate to leave!

    The manager/owner was a Microsoft employee before he started leasing this property. It was originally build and run by the government to promote tourism, and it was a very popular destination, but it was damaged by a typhoon in 2019 and not repaired. This man has been fixing it back up, but he said people don’t realize it’s up and running again.

    We had morning chai (aka masala tea) and went for a quick walk to the water. After we loaded up we had a tour of the neighboring lighthouse!

    We are heading on a side loop into the Eastern Ghats and then to a larger city for the night. We figured we need to make an average of ~200km a day from here on out!
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  • Haritha Beach Resort adventure

    15 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 99 °F

    We appear to be halfway to Gangtok! Timewise and mileage-wise! We know that as we get towards the end it will get steeper and slower, so we are tending to get distance in now.

    Today we were mostly on a limited-access highway, so we stopped for a breakfast snack with coffee and we stopped for lunch, but it felt like we didn’t have a lot of direct human interaction today. That is the downside of making good time on the highway.

    But at the end of our breakfast stop we had to do dozens of iterations of selfies with the people there. And a cute young man with light-colored eyes showed up and everyone was so excited to get a picture of me with him because "our eyes matched”! I love that!

    We have learned to look for “family restaurant” for a meal if we want an air conditioning break at lunchtime to escape the 100°+ heat. We found a nice one today, and the served “mocktails”, which we’ve encountered in other restaurants. Eric had a lovely paper umbrella in his.

    We decided to push a little farther than our originally planned stopping point because we saw a beach resort that was a comfortable ways further. The crazy thing was, Google sent us on a route into the neighboring town onto dead-end roads that was the most remote-seeming place we’ve encountered so far. We finally reached a point where we could go no further, and a young woman who knew some English was summoned to direct us back out. I’m still picturing the chicken and it’s baby chicks wandering around where we stopped! Meanwhile, a couple dozen people or more had collected around us, and we had about a dozen children running after us as we headed out. Our second Google-led attempt ended at a dead end, also, but we could see the lighthouse by the resort. Two young men hopped in our rickshaw and told us where to go. It was an AMAZING experience!!!

    We drive into the resort area and immediately see the rickshaw of our friends Brian and Tom! We had no idea that we would all end up at the same place tonight! And later two more rickshaws arrived, full of kids (I’m pretty sure they are our kids’ age) from the UK. We chatted over beers, and they are all delightful. BUT, we are slightly worried that they may pull some prank with our rickshaws…I’ll report back.

    I’ll have to post again in the morning with pictures of this most interesting resort. It’s hard to guess when it was built. It sounds like we are all the first foreigners that have stayed here, and they were so delighted we were here!
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  • Rajamahendravaram & friends from home!

    14 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    We’ve seen quite a bit of road improvements happening along our journey so far, and what’s amazing is that everyone can still drive through the area as fancier roadways are being built. We felt like we were 4-wheeling a couple times today.

    It felt like we were traveling through some very rural areas today. We kept seeing youth riding around waving blue flags with a man’s face on it, and I was a little worried about that was happening. Turns out it is the birthday today (4/14) of Bhimrao Ramji Ambedkar, the man who led the committee that drafted the Indian Constitution. He was a politician and social reformer. Evidently today is referred to as Equality Day in some parts of India.

    We saw more shrimp farming, and beautiful fields of a grain that we also saw harvested and drying on tarps. We passed through an area late in the day where bricks were being made and fired out in the open with smoldering fires.

    And at the end of the day we ended up at a lovely hotel and who should we run into but our buddies Tom and Brian of team FOFO - Falls On Face Often. Brian and Eric work together as paramedics in Shoreline and worked out doing this event together after I told them about a related event called the Mongol Rally.
    We had a blast catching up with them over dinner and drinks at the hotel bar. We stayed up later than normal, so we’ll see if we keep to our string of early starts! 😄
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  • Lunch at Vihari Family Restaurant

    14 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    We are traveling in an area where we just may be the only foreigners to pass through and stop in a looong time. We stopped for snacks and water at a roadside stand and chatted with a man who is a shrimp farming technologist whose English is very good. He told us that the coast is a center for shrimp aquaculture. He also recommended a restaurant with AC for lunch that was only 10km further down the road the way we are going, so we decided to stop for a real lunch instead of snacking.

    Holy cow.

    We were the first foreigners to ever eat at this restaurant, and we were treated so kindly, and like royalty. Another customer ended up sitting with us to eat, and eventually the host sat with us to! Many selfies were taken, and Eric left a great Google review for them. And in the end they wouldn’t even let us pay!! 🥲❤️
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  • Onward, day 6!

    14 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Sometimes it’s hard to get going quickly because we meet such friendly people!

    Also, someone was staying at this resort who had armed guards. Friendly armed guards, thank goodness.

  • Chirala and wading in the Bay of Bengal

    13 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    We had a shorter day of driving so that we could stay in a nice resort hotel at the beach. It is a lovely contrast to where we stayed a couple nights ago!

    Along our way today we bought mangos from a roadside stand in an area where there were dozens of roadside mango sellers, each with hundreds of mangos stacked in neat pyramids on their tables. There were huge mango trees growing in orchards on either side of the road. We bought 4 mangos for about $1!

    We saw herds of buffalos a couple times today, and an area of flooded man-made ponds that we think were for farming shrimp.

    By the way, our room for tonight is about $60. The bottom-of-the-barrel room we had a couple nights ago was about $13. Really good sit-down meals have run us about $12-13 for both of us. Our chia teas cost about 55-60 cents. It’s hard to wrap my head around the cheap prices! Interestingly, fuel seems to be about equivalent in price to home.
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  • Quick pit stop @ Bajaj dealer in Kavali

    13 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    Topped up our engine oil - 500 ml plus extra to take with us (in a used water bottle!) - no charge!! ❤️🇮🇳❤️

  • Nellore

    13 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Now we are in the state of Andhra Pradesh and traveling near and along the coast of the Bay of Bengal. Arabic food for dinner last night, Indian this morning! Vada for breakfast again today! Heading north paralleling the coast today to stay at the beach tonight!! 🌊Leia mais

  • Shore temple, and the Bay of Bengal!

    12 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    We just wanted to see the beach briefly, and headed for the Shore Temple to see what that’s all about. We were lucky enough to score a guide who told us all about it and explained the main Hindu gods and their wives. When we returned to the parking lot there were three more rickshaws from the rickshaw run park next to us!

    Our guide also took us to a couple other places in town, including a quick trip to the beach. The water felt like the perfect warm temperature! Mahabalipuram is the stone carving capital of India, and I’m sorry I didn’t get any shots of the roadside stands with huge carvings.
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  • Leaving Viluppuram

    12 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    What a total immersion in India that isn’t catering to western tourists.

    Last night I picked up a couple feet of tuberose garland at a flower stall because the bit we had before was dried out and I missed the heavenly scent. The woman sweeping the courtyard saw me carrying it out to the rickshaw and gestured that she’d put it in my hair for me, which is what women here do. I was so moved! She pulled clips and bobby pins out of nowhere to attach the garland to my hair. ☺️

    Edited to add - breakfast chai at a tea stand. I think we are the only white people within miles. Fried savory fritter and savory “donut” called Vada with onion, cilantro and ginger in the dough.
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  • 3-star hotel does not mean fancy

    11 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We planned on staying at a fairly nice hotel tonight in Viluppuram, but it was already full when we got here and trying to find another in the chaos of the city was going to be a challenge. So we ended up at a very neglected “3-Star” (on Google) hotel that at least had a good-sized parking lot and is a bit off the noisy main road. And has AC. This area has lots of mosquitoes, including in our room, so we picked up some mosquito room spray and a citronella diffuser at a local store. Don’t worry, we are taking our malaria pills daily! In this city there are sewer/runoff trenches running under the sidewalk, with gaps here and there. Must be mosquito heaven. 😬

    We made great time today (300+ km) and hope to get an early start and a truly “luxurious” hotel for tomorrow night. I’ll add more photos from this afternoon when I have a better cell signal or WiFi.
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  • “Eat Ride Repeat”

    11 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    Lunch break in Rasipuram at Classic Rider Cafe. Their motto “Eat Ride Repeat” fits us for sure. Checked the oil this morning (it looks great), met the cutest gal working at a petrol station (she was all smiles until the photo!), saw what looked like sandstone hills you’d see in Utah, and seeing lots of beautiful Hindu temples. I’m eating a paneer burger for lunch, which is deep-fried paneer (cheese) on a bun. And a honey date milkshake. 😋Leia mais

  • Early morning in Tiruppur

    11 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Coming in from a search for coffee (this hotel doesn’t have tea/coffee in the room) we noticed a honeybee hive hanging from the eave of our hotel!!

  • Anaimalai Tiger Preserve

    10 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Leaving Munnar we went higher into the mountains to the ultimate elevation of a little over 6000 feet and then dropped down into the dessert side of the mountains. The road went through this tiger reserve. We made it through alive! 😜 🛺💨🐅Leia mais

  • From Munnar to Tiruppur, Tamil Nadu

    10 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ 🌙 91 °F

    We didn’t make a lot of miles today because of going 15kph and slower through the winding roads of the mountains, and 30kph driving through the tiger reserve. But once we got out into flat territory we were making 60kph+. So it seems like we will be able to make much better progress when we are on flatter ground. AND if we can stop being distracted by cool things. It is REALLY hard to blast through places. We will wish we could take 2 months rather than 2 weeks.

    We left the state of Kerala and have entered the state of Tamil Nadu. Checking into our hotel (Hotel Home) in Tiruppur felt a bit like we were trying to enter a new country. Luckily we passed muster. The bathroom in our room has mothballs sitting in the sink drain and floor drain. Not my favorite aroma…

    Pardon my boldness, but I have to share that I encountered my first two squatty potties today! First since visiting Japan in 1999. One time it was a pay toilet at a tourist rest area in the mountains. We paid the equivalent of about 2.5-cents to use the toilet.

    We had the best chai tea of our trip so far today at two different places. I’m sharing the video of chai tea being readied to serve.

    At the base of the mountains we passed through an agricultural area where I recognized corn, coconut trees, banana trees and maybe papayas trees, and off in the distance in all directions are wind turbines maybe half the height or less of those we see at home. Very cool!
    Passing through the town of Udumalaipetti we stopped for delicious mushroom pastries and hot, sweet lemon tea to die for. The food!! ❤️

    As we returned to the road we ended up behind a truck carrying a bunch of people including youth playing drums. They saw us and went crazy! We felt like we were being led in a parade!
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  • Hotel C7 in Munnar

    10 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Our hotel is up a side road off of the main highway, and our room looks out to absolutely gorgeous rolling hills of tea bushes. The texture/pattern is mesmerizing, and the lighting at sunset was surreal!

    This hotel looks lovely on the whole and “has character”. It kind of looks like it was built in the 80s. It’s cool enough here that there is no AC. Eric characterized the bed last night this way - “This bed is so hard that when my heart beats it makes my head shake.” That still makes me giggle. It really wasn’t bad at all for sleeping.

    The tea kettle in our room has a basket in the top for loose tea and the kettle periodically percolates after it’s reached temperature rather than just shut off. And we've discovered that rolls of TP in India are very small, quite a contrast to our jumbo Costco rolls at home!

    Breakfast of coffee, pastries and dragonfruit, then we pack up and go!
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  • Dinner at Hotel Saravana Bhavan

    9 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Oh man. The food so far! In India “hotel” means restaurant. This is a bustling big room with a huge noisy kitchen and lots of employees. The trick for us on this trip will be at least partly mastering eating with our right hand and no utensils with even a shred of grace.

    Our meals tonight were presented on a tray lined with banana leaves to use as the plate. Three of the condiments in little indents were called chutneys the white one being coconut chutney. Delicious! Not the “chutney” we think of!

    I ordered masala paneer with parotta. Eric ordered mushroom manchurian with rotti. The cool thing is we’d just watched a man making parotta at a stand outside, so I’m sharing that video here.
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  • Driving to Munnar

    9 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    What a gorgeous drive we had today up into the mountains. We even visited a roadside “Honey Museum” and learned a bit about the local honeybee, which is smaller than the bees we get for our hives. We met a beekeeper who maintains 700 hives!!

    We are spending the night in the city of Munnar. It’s incredibly lush, and the temperature is perfect - a wonderful change from the heat of the past few days. Rolling mountainsides in Munnar are covered with manicured tea bushes.

    I wish I had a video of all the surprised looks and friendly smiles and hellos that we constantly experienced, and I mean constantly! A young man even gave us advice on a safer route to take from here to avoid a more crime-prone area. He is also a motorcycle enthusiast, so I foresee Eric going on a trip with him around India sometime in the future….😊
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  • We’re off! Lunch stop - chicken biryani

    9 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 93 °F

    Both the chicken and the egg were included! Brewed coffee with sugar and milk that almost tastes like crème brûlée. 😋

  • Visit with local friends

    8 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    We got to take our rickshaw out today to test drive from 10 to 4, so we drove back towards the airport to visit a lovely couple who we met back home when they were visiting their daughter and her family in Lake Forest Park this winter. We were treated to a delicious home-cooked meal!

    This trip was a great test of Eric’s driving skills in a busier urban environment, and he loved it! I’m sharing photos of what we saw along the way, and of their absolutely beautiful garden.
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  • End of Day Two in Cochi

    7 de abril de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Most importantly I have to say that the rickshaw assignment gods looked favorably upon us and Eric and I were lucky to get one of the handful of rickshaws with 4-stroke engines. Most are 2-stroke. But ours did die when the fuel gauge read half-full, leaving us dead in the water in the middle of town. **If you know of our last trips to Utah in our beloved Landcruiser, you’ll see why we knew we could do THIS trip** We received kind help from locals, got a, uh, rickshaw-for-hire ride to a shop to get two 5-liter petrol containers (that look more like heavy-duty cooking oil jugs) and to the petrol station to get one filled up. 2.5 liters of petrol filled up the rickshaw tank that is supposed to have a 5-gallon capacity (in other words, apparently it wasn’t out of gas when it was dying) and it purred like a kitten. Hurray! We’ll see what happens on that front.

    Rickshaws had to be returned by 4pm. Where they are all parked is right next to the waterfront, so we had a lovely stroll on the promenade. We then attended an amazing local classical dance performance that is like musical storytelling that originated in the 17th century and involves elaborate costumes and makeup. For the hour prior to the performance the actors put their makeup on onstage. Fascinating!

    Unfortunately we had to sneak out of the performance to get to the mandatory team meeting. It was a humor-filled welcome/introduction/let’s go over the loose guidelines talk, and my biggest take away was that right at the beginning he said there are 20 women and 169 men taking part in this event. 🤣
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