• Pastry Tour of Copenhagen

    October 29, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We left the apartment quite early this morning to head back over to Christianshavn to meet up with Simon, our guide from yesterday. Today we did a morning pastry tour with him that went for two hours and took us all over the city, a distance of about 7 kms all up. We got to sample a diverse array of traditional Danish delights from five top-rated bakeries. Our first stop was at a bakery called Emmerys, which is part of a chain of bakeries, but of a high standard. Here we tried a Tebirkes, which is pastry with a marzipan centre that gets quite caramelised when baked, topped with a lot of poppy seeds. It was very nice, which surprised me, as I am not a fan of marzipan. We then made our way into the city centre, past the Danish Parliament and Old Stock Exchange, and over several bridges and canals.

    Our second stop was at a local bakery in the centre of Copenhagen called Holm. It was one of the independent bakeries that was able to pivot and survive when the new style of bakery chains emerged in the early 1980’s. Here we had a Kanelsnegl, which is a cinnamon roll or bun, and it was delicious. We next headed for the central food market where we went to Skt. Peders Bageri, which Simon thought was the best bakery in Copenhagen. Here where we tried their Spandauer, a pastry with custard in the middle. This was delicious, the custard was full of flecks of vanilla bean and the pastry crisp.

    We then did a very big walk of about 3kms along a large lake (Sortedams Se) to the very upmarket suburb of Osterbro, where we visited a Dutch bakery that was established in 1876 called REINH van HAUEN. Here we tasted quite a traditional Danish with custard and raspberry jam. I took a bite and was taken back to our kitchen in Glen Waverley as a 15 year old, helping dad make Danish pastries on a Saturday morning. This was my favourite one. Our last stop was a few hundred meters along the road at Hart, which was established by the pastry chef from NOMA. Here we had the cardamon croissant. It was a thoroughly delightful and delicious way to spend the morning. In addition to learning about the evolution of Danish pastries we got to see areas of Copenhagen that we may have otherwise missed.
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