• Danielle and Co travels
  • Danielle and Co travels

Europe 2024

Heading off with my BFF to Scotland and then meeting Ian in France to make some wonderful memories. もっと詳しく
  • Christianshavn, the Old and the New

    2024年10月28日, デンマーク ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today Ian booked us into a walking tour of Christianshavn. We met our guide Simon at the allotted time, to discover we were the only ones on the tour. Simon is very passionate about Copenhagen and its history. He is a lawyer currently between gigs and recently started up the company “Lost With a Local” with three friends. He also does a pastry tour of Copenhagen which we decided to book in to for tomorrow.

    We started off hearing about the history of Denmark and the ‘standout’ Danish King, Christian IV, who was responsible for building up Denmark into a powerhouse of influence and wealth. He reigned Denmark and Norway for 59 years, the longest in Scandinavian history, and is remembered as one of the most popular, ambitious and proactive Danish-Norwegian kings, having initiated many reforms and projects. Christian IV obtained a level of stability and wealth that was virtually unmatched elsewhere in Europe at the time. He had a number of new fortresses built under the direction of Dutch engineers. The Royal Dani-Norwegian Navy grew from twenty two vessels in 1596 to sixty by 1610. He also encouraged overseas trade, founded a number of merchant cities, supported the building of factories, and oversaw a large number of buildings built in the Dutch Renaissance style.

    Following this introduction, we wandered around the old part of Christianshavn, along canals and down narrow streets as Simon pointed out the architecture of various periods, and where the integrity of the building had been maintained even when the building was updated. We briefly visited the Church of Our Saviour, a baroque church, most famous for the external staircase that can be climbed to the top, offering extensive views over central Copenhagen. It is also known for its carillon (a musical instrument that consists of a set of at least 23 bells that have been precisely tuned to produce the notes of a western scale), which plays melodies every hour from 8am to midnight.

    We then walked through Christiania, the famous Freetown of Copenhagen. Christiania was founded in 1971 when a group of squatters cut a hole in the fence to the disused military barracks in Bådmandsgade. Soon the area was known for Pusher Street, where you could buy hash and pot, but no hard drugs, from various stalls. Simon said it was tolerated by the authorities because the barracks were contaminated, and they couldn’t be bothered cleaning it up. To this day, many of the original settlers still live in the collectively controlled village, and the area has a clear 70’s feel to it. Many of the people living in Christiania built their homes themselves, giving the area an interesting architectural feel. There are also a number of eco-restaurants, workshops, galleries and music venues.

    Christiania existed under special conditions for 40 years, with constant conflicts and clashes between the local residents and the Danish state. After many years of uncertainty about its future, an agreement was reached in 2011, which meant that on 1 July 2012 the Foundation Freetown Christiania was formed. This now owns the entire part of Christiania located outside the protected ramparts and leases buildings and land on the ramparts, which are still owned by the state. Up until quite recently (April 2024), the area around Pusher Street was controlled by organised criminal groups. Earlier this year, after a number of violent incidents, the police, together with the support of the people of Christiania, removed this criminal element. It is a really funky area with lots of urban art and other art around the grounds. About 900 people call Christiania home.

    We left Christiania and made our way through some newer parts of Christianshavn down to the new Opera building. We had seen it on the canal cruise, and from the other side of the harbour, but did not really appreciate the size and magnitude of the building until we were standing right in front of it. It is very impressive indeed.

    We parted company with Simon and headed back over to a restaurant he recommended for a late lunch. We shared two Smørrebrød, a herring with mustard sauce, a boiled egg and capers, and a fried fish with shrimp and a rémoulade. Both were delicious, but we both preferred the herring. Ian had dill schnapps and a beer with lunch, and I had a glass of Chablis. We then shared pancakes with apple compote, toasted almonds and cream, and a golden delicious schnapps and coffee. After lunch we popped into Hart, a bakery opened by the pastry chef from Noma, and grabbed a few treats for tonight. We ended up walking nearly 13kms today, which isn’t too shabby! At night we again had a light meal and an early night as tomorrow is going to be another big day.
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  • Pastry Tour of Copenhagen

    2024年10月29日, デンマーク ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We left the apartment quite early this morning to head back over to Christianshavn to meet up with Simon, our guide from yesterday. Today we did a morning pastry tour with him that went for two hours and took us all over the city, a distance of about 7 kms all up. We got to sample a diverse array of traditional Danish delights from five top-rated bakeries. Our first stop was at a bakery called Emmerys, which is part of a chain of bakeries, but of a high standard. Here we tried a Tebirkes, which is pastry with a marzipan centre that gets quite caramelised when baked, topped with a lot of poppy seeds. It was very nice, which surprised me, as I am not a fan of marzipan. We then made our way into the city centre, past the Danish Parliament and Old Stock Exchange, and over several bridges and canals.

    Our second stop was at a local bakery in the centre of Copenhagen called Holm. It was one of the independent bakeries that was able to pivot and survive when the new style of bakery chains emerged in the early 1980’s. Here we had a Kanelsnegl, which is a cinnamon roll or bun, and it was delicious. We next headed for the central food market where we went to Skt. Peders Bageri, which Simon thought was the best bakery in Copenhagen. Here where we tried their Spandauer, a pastry with custard in the middle. This was delicious, the custard was full of flecks of vanilla bean and the pastry crisp.

    We then did a very big walk of about 3kms along a large lake (Sortedams Se) to the very upmarket suburb of Osterbro, where we visited a Dutch bakery that was established in 1876 called REINH van HAUEN. Here we tasted quite a traditional Danish with custard and raspberry jam. I took a bite and was taken back to our kitchen in Glen Waverley as a 15 year old, helping dad make Danish pastries on a Saturday morning. This was my favourite one. Our last stop was a few hundred meters along the road at Hart, which was established by the pastry chef from NOMA. Here we had the cardamon croissant. It was a thoroughly delightful and delicious way to spend the morning. In addition to learning about the evolution of Danish pastries we got to see areas of Copenhagen that we may have otherwise missed.
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  • Some Danish Culture

    2024年10月29日, デンマーク ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    When the pastry tour concluded and we bid Simon farewell, we decided to make our way back towards our place. The weather was still holding but rain was threatening. We noticed what we thought was a park ahead, but it turned out to be a cemetery, one of the most beautiful cemeteries we had ever seen. It was called Holmens Kirkegård and it was full of beautiful trees (and gravestones).

    We then walked through another park called Osterbro Anlæg towards SMK, the National Gallery of Denmark. We got tickets and spent the next couple of hours looking through their collections. This gallery has the nation’s collection of art, comprising of more than 200,000 pieces. Spanning more than seven hundred years, the collection tells the story of how Denmark has changed through the ages. Initially a major political power, Denmark later transitioned from being an absolute monarchy into a small national state, ultimately becoming a modern democracy.

    We started with their French collection with art from 1900 to 1930, which included works by Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, André Derain and Modigliani. In this collection you can see very different works by the same artists. Many of the artists tried out different expressions and techniques. Common to the very diverse works is that they attracted much attention in their time for their contributions to how modern art ought to be. This collection is largely due to Johannes Rump, an engineer and art collector, who during the 1910’s and 1920’s gathered one of the finest collections of works by Matisse, that he donated to the museum in 1928.

    We then wandered through the Danish and Nordic art collection 1750 - 1900, which has around 400 paintings. There are works by Nicolai Ablildgaard, C.W. Eckersberg, Jens Joel, L.A. Ring, P.S. Krøyer, Christen Købke and Vilhelm Hammershøi.

    The European Art Collection 1300 - 1800, contains works from the Middle Ages through to the Enlightenment period, including paintings by Andrea Mantegna, Tiziano Vecellio, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Peter Paul Ruebens and Rembrandt van Rijn.
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  • Against All Odds

    2024年10月29日, デンマーク ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We also went to the temporary exhibition, Against All Odds, Historical Women and New Algorithms. This exhibition tells the stories of twenty-four Nordic women artists who achieved great success in the years 1870-1910, but have since more or less disappeared from history. It explores how we can reinscribe women artists in art history and whether new technology can be used to write history in completely new ways.

    These twenty-four Nordic women artists had one thing in common, they left their Nordic home countries to pursue their artistic ambitions abroad in places such as Germany, Italy, France and Greece. There, they met other women in the same situation, forming networks that cut across national borders. The international networks became a crucial source of support for them in the face of a lack of recognition from institutions in their homelands - a cosmopolitan alternative to the national scenes at a time when women had limited opportunities. Access to education and work was limited, the Nordic art academies were reserved for men and exhibition opportunities were scarce. The research underpinning this exhibition shows that women were systematically written out of history throughout the early twentieth century due to the resistance towards women’s liberation. The twenty-four artists featured in the exhibition achieved success in their own time against all odds.

    After this exhibition we were ready to head back into town for some lunch. We got outside and found it was lightly raining. We decided to look for a restaurant close to the apartment. We walked through the King’s Garden and once in the neighbourhood found a lovely looking restaurant called Møntergard. When we got inside we realised it was a bit more upmarket than we thought, but hey we are on holidays and we are here to enjoy life which includes local nice food! We both had the Smørrebrød again, Ian had the roast beef and I went for the Herring with mustard sauce and a poached egg. Ian went for a schnapps which was recommended by the waiter as a good pairing with the roast beef and I had a glass of Albariño. The lunch was really good and had we more time in Copenhagen we would have tried more of their extensive menu. We went home for a bit of downtime before our final dinner tonight, as we have been on the go for the last few days.
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  • Last hurrah

    2024年10月29日, デンマーク ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    For our final dinner in Copenhagen we booked into a restaurant called Levi, located just a few doors down from the apartment. It looked nice and I had read a number of very good reviews. Its menu was a fusion of Japanese and Italian cuisine, and it did not disappoint.

    We were looked after by a wonderful young man, Christian, who was the consummate professional and knew a lot about wine. We decided to choose all our dishes for sharing and, instead of a bottle of wine, we ordered by the glass, as they had a really good range to choose from. As an aperitif I had a Matcha Pisco Sour and Ian had a Manzanilla sherry. We followed that with rosé champagne for me and an Alvarinho for Ian. They both went perfectly with the sashimi we started with. Next we had lardo toast, which is pork on really crisp crackers with a Japanese sauce - yum.

    Next we had Gyoza filled with salsiccia (an Italian sausage) and prawn. With this course, I chose a dry crisp Riesling and Ian had a natural Beaujolais. This was followed by Wagyu skewers with chives and Satsuma, that looks and tastes a bit like sesame seeds. For this course I had a glass of Nebbiolo from Piedmont which went very well with our next course of Risotto with truffle, salsiccia and parmigiana. This was rich and creamy and delicious.

    We shared both desserts. I chose a silky smooth pistachio gelato with olive oil and salt, and Ian chose hazelnuts with lemon sorbet. With dessert, I had a Loire Valley sticky and Ian had a Grappa. The desserts were absolutely sublime. It was a wonderful last meal and a really fabulous evening.
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  • Our Helsinki Hideout

    2024年10月30日, フィンランド ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    This is our Helsinki home for the next few days. It is a lovely apartment in the Design District, and very centrally located for the main attractions. There are also many great restaurants, bars and art and craft studios in the area. We went to our favourite restaurant, Hills Dumplings - inspired by the dumpling restaurants in Box Hill in Melbourne - for dinner, and then had an early night.もっと詳しく

  • Hey (Hello) Helsinki

    2024年10月31日, フィンランド ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    This was our first full day in Helsinki and, as no rain was predicted until till this evening, we thought we would just walk around the city and make the most of a rain free day. It was very chilly but we had sunshine and a blue sky. We walked along Esplanade Park to Market Square, where a few stalls were being set up, so we headed to Senate Square and the Helsinki Cathedral. We popped into the (Lutheran) Cathedral, which is quite austere compared to a Catholic one. We then walked back down to the waterfront market where I bought a headband to keep my ears warm, as my little beanie wasn’t cutting the mustard. After, we wandered around for a bit and took some snaps across the harbour.

    Next, we passed the Presidential Palace, with only one guard in sight. Nearby was the Uspenski Cathedral, which is a Greek Orthodox cathedral built in 1868, and is the largest Greek Orthodox Church in both Northern and Western Europe. We then headed into the city, past Senate Square. We found a lovely café so we stopped in for a coffee. While I was ordering, I noticed some oval pastries on the counter. I asked what they were and was told they were Karelian pastries, which are rye pastry filled with rice pudding and baked. They are normally served with egg butter, but they hadn’t made the topping yet so we had them without. They are quite plain tasting, but I enjoyed it with my coffee.

    We continued our walk past the central train station and up to Eduskuntatalo, which is the Finnish Parliament House. We then walked across the road to Kansalaistori, a modern public square with the Sibelius Academy, the ultramodern Oodi building (Helsinki’s Central Library) and Kiasma, which is the Museum of Contemporary Art.

    We then crossed the road in search of another new museum Ian was interested in called Amos Rex, a privately run art gallery. As the weather is looking pretty wet and cold tomorrow we were scoping out possible “indoor” activities. We are also interested in revisiting the Design Museum, which is only about 200 metres from our apartment.

    We spent the next couple of hours shopping, eating lunch, admiring the architecture and discovering what we have in our neighbourhood. As part of the shopping we went Marimekko, and Ian bought me a lovely dress and a woollen headband, which are early birthday presents.
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  • It’s Raining, It’s Pouring (Part 1)

    2024年11月1日, フィンランド ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    The weather bureau turned out to be very accurate. It was forecast to rain for most of the day and, rain it did. We decided it would be a good opportunity to see a few museums, so that’s what we did, along with everyone else in Helsinki!

    We went to Kiasma first, which is the Museum of Contemporary Art. On arrival, after securing a locker and taking off the many layers of clothing, we went to get tickets and discovered that entry was free as it was the first Friday of the month. That explained the big crowds.

    We started with the temporary exhibition, Feels Like Home. It tackled the pressing issue of what makes people feel a sense of belonging to a community or a place. How is the sense of belonging reflected in our identity, our relationship with other people and more broadly in society? The exhibition was made up of works from a range of mediums including installations, videos, paintings, photographs and sculptures.

    There were works made of pieces of fabric and textiles placed throughout the exhibition which can be picked up by the museum guards at any time and carried around the galleries. These were created by Essi Kausalainen in collaboration with the customer service team, and are based on the personal experiences of the guards’ encounters in the museum space. They are the ones who spend the most time with the artworks and the visitors. Sadly, we didn’t see any guards “performing “.

    There were several videos in the exhibition, but I found one particularly emotional, interesting, confronting and compelling. It depicted the love story of two long-haired trans men. Over the course of one year, the artist couple documented their relationship from their first encounter to milestones such as meeting each other’s parents for the first time. The emotional moments recorded in the photos and chat messages tell a transatlantic story of two people falling in love and finding a connection. It is also a story about trans masculinity. The relationship acquires new depth after Z Walsh undergoes gender reassignment surgery. The work celebrates queer and trans love through the entanglement of art and life, and was done so well in a 13 minute video. The art gallery itself is a beautiful modern building.
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  • It’s still raining!

    2024年11月1日, フィンランド ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After we finished at Kiasma, we headed across the road to Amos Rex, a private museum set up by a wealthy businessman. Being private, there was is no free entry! The museum was named after the publisher and arts patron Amos Anderson. It was located at a nearby site from 1965 to 2017, and the new museum opened in 2018 in a subterranean building under the Lasipalatsi plaza, with some parts of the ‘roof’ poking through. It is a very impressive space.

    The current exhibition was one by Palestinian-Danish artist Larissa Sansour. The past, the present and possible futures meet in this darkly expressive exhibition, which seeks to make a space for new ways of thinking about contested geographies and histories. Sansour’s video works and installations interweave contemporary politics with imagined realities, using the narrative methods of sci-fi, documentary and opera. The works deal with topics such as the Palestinian people’s loss of their land or the threat of ecological catastrophe, and develop into studies of grief, memory, and inherited trauma.

    The trajectory of the exhibition guided us through the seven works on display, all based on large video installations. The narrative progressed from the deep burden of trauma to the exhilaration of a moon landing. In the first exhibition hall there was a sculptural work, Monument for Lost Time, a large gaping black hole. This was a companion to “In Vitro”, a video piece set in the aftermath of an ecological disaster. Both works embody the core of the exhibition: - unfathomable trauma of loss that burrows into the cells of our bodies, and our corresponding longing for wholeness.

    Next there was an Arabic-language opera piece, As If No Misfortune Had Occurred in the Night, which revolves around the grief of a mother. There was also an installation of bronze sculptures titled “Archaeology in Absentia”, as well as a sci-fi video trilogy: - (1) In the Future They Ate from the Finest Porcelain, (2) Nation Estate and, (3) A Space Exodus. They all deal with the power exerted by history writing and the formation of identities. The final video, A Space Exodus, the oldest work in the exhibition, references Stanley Kubrick’s film 2001: A Space Odyssey. In it, a spaceship carries Sansour through space to the surface of the moon.

    All the works by Larissa Sansour, were provocative and moving and quite emotionally draining. Her works are derived from her lived experience and heritage, which she addresses using diverse experimental narrative means. She was born in East Jerusalem and grew up in the town of Bethlehem. Sansour’s works create a distance to talk about the complexities of the conflict in Palestine that has gone on for a century.

    We finished our visit with a walk through part of Amos Anderson’s private collection, which he donated to the museum.
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  • Gothic Modern at the Ateneum

    2024年11月1日, フィンランド ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    After having a bite to eat we headed to our third Art museum of the day. We went to the Ateneum - Helsinki’s main art gallery - to see the Gothic Modern exhibition. The place was packed. “Why?”, you may ask. The rain obviously brought people indoors but, like Kiasma, it was also free on the first Friday of the month.

    We decided to tackle the Gothic Modern exhibition first and then have a look at the permanent exhibition. It was so crowded it was a bit overwhelming to start with, but once we found our groove we were able to weave in and out of the crowds. It was an excellent exhibition, very extensive and contained quite a few works by Edvard Munch, a favourite of mine, and also a Van Gogh.

    “Gothic Modern - From Darkness to Light” presents a new approach to modern art. The exhibition focuses on the untold story of how some artists from the late 19th to early 20th centuries reimagined and recreated the Gothic. It was broken up into several areas: - “Journeys to the Gothic” focused on the turn of the 20th century, which was characterised by rapid change, technological development, societal transformation, the collapse of empires and outbreak of wars, very much like our current time. Artists turned towards medieval and German art to find ways to articulate their experiences. The exhibition takes you on a journey along the threshold of past and present, examining ideas of individual, gender and transnational community, entwined with the dark, the emotive and the uncanny. These issues were the subject of intense deliberation a hundred years ago, and they have not lost any of their relevance in the contemporary world.

    Dance of Death (Danse Macabre or Totentanz) is one of the central iconographies that modern artists adapted from Medieval and early Renaissance traditions. The theme presents an allegorical ‘dance’ of the living with death portrayed as a skeleton figure. In Gothic imagery, the skeletons guide the living to a dance with a grip that is at times forceful, and at times gentle. Horror and loneliness are more prominent in modern interpretations, but they often also reflect a sense of dark humour and become a lens on the underside of modern social realities.
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  • Last full day in Helsinki

    2024年11月2日, フィンランド ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We woke to a very chilly morning after some sleet and snow overnight, but at least the rain had stopped and the sun was shining. We headed out to get some breakfast, and finally found a place that was open a few blocks away. It was a coffee shop we had been to in Copenhagen called Espresso House. Here we had a cinnamon bun and a hot chocolate.

    We then decided to walk down to the waterfront to check out the markets again, where there were a few more stalls set up today. I ended up buying a crocheted hat/beanie. It was made by a nice young unemployed guy called Daniel who had taught himself to crochet and does his own designs. The one I got is inspired by a Gregorian pattern he liked.

    We then headed back into town because I wanted to get a couple of things from Stockmans (Helsinki’s equivalent to Myer). After this, we headed to the Helsinki Design Museum for a look at their current exhibition called “FIX: Care and Repair”. This focuses on repair and maintenance of everyday objects while also exploring how the passage of time affects architecture and design. Objects and buildings undergo constant change. They age, get dirty and break. Maintaining and repairing things are active practices that reflect our prevailing values. What objects and things do we invest time and money in caring for? What is left out the scope of care?

    Maintenance-related work often takes place out of sight. The FIX exhibition places everyday tasks at the centre of attention. It features selected examples from the fields of architecture and design, along with four newly commissioned contemporary art installations. Visitors are invited to contemplate questions of repair, cleaning and upkeep, and to participate in events woven around the exhibition.

    We also walked around the Museum’s permanent exhibition, which looks at the history and evolution of design and industrial arts in Finland. It is just part of their total collection of 75,000 objects, 45,000 drawings, 125,000 images, and a data bank containing information on over 1,000 designers. The Finns are very proud of their design ethic and heritage.

    For our last dinner in Helsinki, we went to a local bar and restaurant called “The Cock”, where we had a great night. The food and wine were excellent and they had a DJ playing tunes from the 80’s and 90’s, along with some modern stuff. When we left the restaurant it was 0 degrees, so we headed straight back to the apartment, which was only about a 300 metre walk.
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  • Farewell Helsinki

    2024年11月3日, フィンランド ⋅ 🌫 1 °C

    As our plane didn’t leave till 23:50 tonight, we booked our apartment for an additional night so that we had somewhere to hangout and take a late shower. We booked an Uber for the early evening and so had the day to do some further sightseeing, although rain and sleet was predicted from 10 am till 5 pm. We ended up visiting the Helsinki Fire Museum which was located in a lovely old building (1891) just across the road from us. It was interesting enough, with a lot of displays and pictures, but not really my thing.

    We then went to PurPur (means purple in Finnish) Georgian restaurant also just down the street from us. It is beautifully decorated, very warm and comfortable. They are trying a new thing of having a buffet banquet on Sundays, and this was their second week. There were a couple of other tables of customers but not as many as we expected given that many restaurants close on Sunday.

    The banquet was a good option for us as we had the opportunity to try a fairly broad range of their dishes. We had small blinis with pickles, onion, honey, sour cream and white fish roe. We also tried beetroot salad, Georgian salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, herbs, suluguni cheese and nut dressing), Phkali which is a tasty vegetable paste with walnuts, fried mushrooms and onions with sour cream and sulugni cheese, and Hachapuri bread. For mains there was vegetable stew of aubergines, capsicum, potatoes and onion, lamb meatballs, and a Georgian style potato hash with Kupati sausage. For dessert there was baklava, berries and something they called lemon pudding. It looked like cream but was so much more - it was bloody delicious. I think overall I preferred the starters to the mains but it all was very good, and we will go back there next time we are in Helsinki.

    We came back to the apartment to relax for a while before doing the last pack of this trip. It started snowing lightly for a few minutes, before returning to sleet and rain. Our Uber picked us up at the allotted time and had us to the airport in under 30 minutes. There had been more snowfall inland as the pictures show. We are now settled in the Finnair Business Lounge waiting for our flight we should be boarding in about 90 minutes.
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  • We are coming home

    2024年11月4日, シンガポール ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We finally got away just after 1am. We were delayed because a number of connecting flights were running late. As there was quite a bit of snow and ice, the plane had to go through a de-icing process before we could take off. When we were finally up and away, they wanted to feed us a meal. I chose the two cold dishes of an egg salad and a plate of fresh fruit. They absolutely hit the spot and were delicious and light. Ian had a pasta dish that he also enjoyed and I think he weakened and had the chocolate dessert with a berry compote.

    It was then time to get into my PJs and hit the hay. I find the beds on Finnair very comfortable, so I slept for about 9 hours. Ian even got a half decent sleep of about 5 to 6 hours, which is saying something. When I got up we had less than 3 hours until we arrived in Singapore. I passed the time watching some shows, then we were served breakfast. I had waffles and Ian had oven roasted salmon and, before too long, we were making our final approach into Singapore. I love watching the landings and take offs on the video screen.

    We landed and found our way to the Qantas Lounge, where we had a few hours (about 4 ) to kill before our final leg. The last flight was very smooth and we arrived ahead of schedule. We were back home just after 11am. We have had a wonderful holiday but it is nice to be home.
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    旅行の終了
    2024年11月5日