Saint-Privat d'Allier to Saugues

That was even colder!

We left around the same time and had only 20km to go, but a few downs, then big ups and big downs; 886m high to 967, down to 606, up to 1090 and down to 963. Seriously, why not just put a relatively flat tunnel through?

It did not rain at all, but it did snow on and off, and there was a freezing gale on the exposed sections. We missed a few panoramas, I expect, but the small amount of snow did make everything look festive, and there was no mud on the coldest bits. We also passed an amazing rock formation that literally bulged out over the road and had stainless steel anchor bolts for free-climbers. No-one climbing, but scary to imagine. It was shortly after we crossed the Eiffel Bridge - an iron bridge designed by the man who went vertical as well.

We arrived in Saugues around 2:15 again. We found the (very good) hotel on the main street, and asked about the bag perhaps being delivered. The Thai manageress became quite teary at the idea of being outside without proper cold-weather gear and wanted to know all the details. When we went out to buy gloves and a beanie (Saugues is just big enough to have shops other than the bakery and garage) she was on the phone to Air France and its baggage agent for us, but I expect she was given the same programmed apologies and complete washing of hands plus disinterest. Air France is more appalling every day...

To help us remember things, I will add the memorable things about each hotel as we go. Today's (for Hotel la Terrasse, Saugues) are 1. Thai manageress tearing up and attacking Air France 2. Big, quiet room with view over Main Street. 3 Wonderful dinner - mushroom soup, salmon penne (+truffle) and pear tart. The chef is the Thai manageress. There is a Michelin sign outside....4 Fantastic bed - big, right hardness. 5 Slept like logs until an equipment serviceman from Oz called at 4:37am

30,450 steps, 24.0km (perhaps we had a few side trips, and I put the phone in a pocket on the backpack shoulder-strap , but it seems too high...) and 135 flightsRead more