Altopascio to San Miniato

We left the bags and keys in the room, as instructed, and went to breakfast at 7:30 in a modern-looking cafe up the road. It had everything, and they knew why we were there, but it was a bit intimidating: getting your own breakfast is fine, or ordering normally item by item, but this was an unsettling hybrid where we not sure how it worked.

Started walking at 8am, when it was cool (8 deg) but no clouds. a long day - 30kms or so. Through the town, then a section on the original paved track (c 600 years old), and rough to walk on like the old samurai trail in Japan - the Old Tokaido Road. Some walking on roads, but mostly dirt tracks, which was a relief after yesterday's roads. Bought some bread at a bakery in a little town, and reached the Cappiano Bridge round 11:30...just on 15 km. The history is a bit overwhelming at times, as there are chronicles recording that people have walked on, lived at and fought over the trails and buildings we walked on or passed for over 1,000 years, and sometimes 2,000+.

Around midday we were walking along a bank beside the Arno river and it was almost perfect. Easy walking, great views, farmland on one side, olives and trees on the other, lovely temperature, and then church bells at midday. we went up a slow rise to Fucecchio, where we had lunch (carbohydrates, Al) looking out over Tuscany. It was another 8 or 9 km to San Miniato: through the town, across a river, along a small levee bank for ages, across fields, then into town and up the hill to the town, and out to the hotel, which is at the end of a ridge. We arrived around 3;30 with a French lady in tow. She had also booked in here after all the hostels she had rung were closed, and we told her this hotel was at least open.

It is a lovely hotel. They froze Pandora's ice, we have a fridge, nice room, and breakfast in the hotel... but dinner at a restaurant.

Showered, relaxed (we had done 32km so far), then walked into town. It is amazing, and the guide books say it is just one of many amazing little towns we will see in the next while. It was a fortress because of its commanding position, and the headquarters for the church (more important than Florence for a time) so a grand cathedral and views on every side.

Dinner was very good. It was in a packed, noisy restaurant, but the food was good. More carb loading (bruschetta and salamis/spaghetti + chicken and chips/hamburger and salad, plus hazelnut pannacotta and lemon sorbet).

A big day. 44,187 steps/35.6 km. and 45 floors climbed. We both have tired feet, but nothing really sore, and injury-free (bar Anne's occasional scratches). Tomorrow is a respectable 24kms or so. 372 of them to Rome.Read more