Siena to Buonconvento

A big day: 32+ km, although on unsealed trails, and mostly flat.

We set out just after 8am and wandered through the tourists and school children, down the hill, out the huge, stone gate (Porta Romana) and into the Tuscan landscape. There was a cloud haze to start with (not clouds as such, and not overcast) but that lifted as the day grew warm to be just scattered clouds.

We were on a footpath for several km, and then a wide, unsealed trail that wound its way over and around hills, past heavily furrowed paddocks, through fields of green (lucerne?) and past farmhouses and distant villas, with a few short stretches beside and then crossing main roads. Slowly up and down, along and around for hours, and always with a wonderful but hazy landscape in the background

There was a cool breeze, but the sun was coming through the thinning clouds, so it was T-shirt weather from mid-morning on. Never more than 18 deg, though.

We passed quite a few (okay, 6) pilgrims in our nearly eight hour walk: three French, and three Australian. The first Frenchman we have seen regularly since Lucca, but the others were new. All were headed to Rome, and one maybe on to Jerusalem, if he felt it was safe.

The first and only real break was lunch at around 1:45pm. We came down a slow hill into a small village with a cafe that sold bread and cheese, which we ate under some trees in a small park across the street. We had done 26.8km or so, and had only 5 km to go to Buonconvento. 4.65 kph seemed a decent average speed with the odd break for photos, but it was a good track and lovely day.

Buonconvento ("happy place") is a tiny, old village. We walked in at 3:35pm, wandered through the huge wooden doors (from 1379) at the entrance of the town, down the central street, looked at the small church (first built 1103), then further down the street to our hotel, which is a new, brick building. Perhaps as a result, our room is spacious and fine. A fridge, and tea downstairs.

32.4km in 7.5hrs, including breaks for photos and lunch... we were quite pleased, because we did not feel hurried or overly tired. We both, though, have a blister.

Dinner is to be in a restaurant up the road, we were told. We asked for a map and the hotel man laughed: the place is so small that there are none. We are to walk 200m back down the main road to the town's three restaurants, and go to the one called "Roma".

I was disappointed it was to be another restaurant, rather than a more friendly, shared hotel dinner. Big mistake. It was amazing. The menu was on a QR code in the room, and seemed over-the-top in every sense, but that was still underselling it. Lard crouton with cannellini beans and black cabbage, Tuscan chicken liver crostini, pork fillet with honey and crunchy vegetables, Chianina beef stew with chianti on white cannellini bean cream, salads, salt- crusted baked potatoes, apple cake and walnut cake. Huge thumbs up (except Anne and Suzie do better cakes).

41,715 steps, 33.4 km and 46 flights. From Buonconvento, it is 255 km to Rome. Tomorrow is a shorter walk (21km) to San Quirico D’Orcia ( with a long climb at the end…) and the forecast is much like today’s.Read more