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- Dag 1
- mandag 26. juni 2023 11:55
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Høyde: 377 ft
CanadaGrange Park43°38’47” N 79°23’28” W
Toronto
26. juni 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The flight from Heathrow was smooth and trouble free. We arrived in Toronto to a sweltering hot summer day. The journey from Lester Pearson Airport took approximately 40 minutes to our downtown hotel and we learned a lot from our garrulous taxi driver, even if he couldn’t find the Hyatt we were booked into! Having seen no rain at home for some weeks, our first full day in Canada has broken the duck! Today was our only possibility to explore the city of Toronto and so we decided to take the Hop on Hop off bus to achieve our goal. As we have found in the past, they can be a bit hit and miss. This one was more miss than hit, but did the job, albeit in a rather ramshackle manner.
Toronto was founded by the French, as a trading post, on the shore of Lake Ontario, one of the five Great Lakes that straddle the American and Canadian border. The French were eventually driven out by the British in 1759. Great Britain retained control of British Canada following the loss of America after the Wars of Independence and named this rather parochial settlement Fort York, as it’s capital of Upper Canada. Initially it was predominantly a military garrison and was burned to the ground twice during its first 100 years, once by American raiders and secondly by Irish immigrants who became far too fond of the whisky produced in the ‘Distillery District’ with inevitable results! As a consequence, what you see now, is a flamboyant modern city full of glass and steel skyscrapers. There are pockets of tradition interspersed and particularly as you head up towards Yorkville, one of its prosperous and upper class residential areas, but there is little that dates prior to the Victorian era. It’s most famous piece of architecture is the CN Tower that gracefully tops everything else. Until 2010 it was the worlds tallest freestanding structure and on a good day affords fantastic views in all directions. We gave it a miss as the visibility was so poor. Casa Lama, the mansion on the hill, built by a self made man as a gift for his wife, is a rather bizarre attraction and there is the unusual Bata Shoe museum with a stiletto entrance to its shoe box shape, the attractive Royal Ontario Art Gallery, the Ontario Museum (a great mix of old and new) and the 1890s pink sandstone edifice of the Ontario Legislative Assembly. Theatre-land and culture are strong here and throughout trees and small parks are plentiful. The waterfront has been drastically remodelled, in common with many throughout the world, and gives easy access to Lake Ontario. Ferries ply backwards and forwards to the many small islands off shore. Again, we decided against as the weather had closed in, but I’m sure on a fine day the views back to the city on the lake would be spectacular.
It is difficult to sum up my feelings in one short day trip. The whole city is an immense building site making getting around difficult and perhaps giving Toronto a more negative vibe that it probably deserves. I suspect in five years time my thoughts would be different and I can see, as Mike and Mary will attest, this is an attractive liveable city.Les mer
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- Dag 17
- tirsdag 10. mars 2020 04:04
- 🌙 7 °C
- Høyde: 748 ft
IndiaJethuwāl Distributary31°39’13” N 74°51’47” E
The Golden Finale
10. mars 2020, India ⋅ 🌙 7 °C
We began our final day with a demonstration. No, not of the floral variety, but a ‘how to tie a turban’ dem from Jessie. Tony was volunteered and ended up with a very chic scarlet turban for our daytime temple visit. Between 5 and 7 metres of cotton fabric are used in every turban and to tie one is something of an art form. I had no idea there were so many versions, but I now know how individual a turban can be and some aficionados use considerably more fabric. It is mainly a male head dress, but some women also choose to wear it. Jessie was sporting a natty orange version today, as this is a celebratory colour for Sikhs and today is the Indian ‘Holi’ Colour Festival. As you may have noticed from last nights photographs of the little boys, it is customary to throw powdered paint at people in celebration. I had been warned to take something ‘disposable’ to wear in case of disaster! As a result this morning’s visit to the Golden Temple was particularly special and ultra busy. Everyone was out in their best clothes and there were some fabulous outfits on show. Indians are not frightened of colour and wear it with aplomb. We followed our route of last night and by day the contrast between the surrounding streets and the immediate Temple vicinity was even more marked. At least the rats had gone to bed! It seems incredible that the Temple is kept in such an immaculate state and yet all around people live in filth, throw rubbish everywhere and seem oblivious to the fact that they are existing in a health and hygiene nightmare. There seems to be little desire to clean anything up and it wouldn’t take much. They must have a very strong immune system. If you ask anyone about it the response is always ‘This is India’ with a shrug of the shoulders. The words convenient excuse come to mind? Sudhir, our guide feels that education is the key and it will gradually improve, but it could be generations.
By daylight the Golden Temple sparkled in the sun and there were people massed everywhere. The scene was a glorious riot of colour. Jessie took us on a tour of the kitchen, where up to
100,000 meals were to be served today, all prepared and served by volunteers. This is double the normal because of the Holi Festival. It is a very slick and organised system and no one is refused sustenance. There are four enormous halls where the people sit in rows on the floor and are served rice, chapati, dhal, a vegetable dish and water. A small amount only on a stainless steel divided platter. It dawned on me that this is less of a meal and more of a communion, which Jessie confirmed. We moved on to the kitchens, where the making of chapatis was in full swing. The dough is produced by a massive machine and volunteers shape and roll them out. This was our chance to get involved and so we did! I sat with one of my group on my right and two Indian ladies to my left. We all knew how to handle a rolling pin regardless of creed or nationality and I was pleased to have made a contribution. The chapatis were cooked over a huge griddle before heading out to feed the ‘five thousand’. Then there was the washing up! Oh my God, the racket, as the platters crashed against one another in the two 200ft long water troughs and thence into racks. Men washed up in one trough and women in the other. I was slightly concerned at how often the water was changed, but as we were not eating, let it pass!
We slowly made our way out of the kitchens, past people industriously chopping garlic, onions and multiple vegetables, into the sunlight to walk around the sacred pool one last time. To our amazement all age groups wanted to have their photographs taken with us and it was a slow but friendly path to the exit gate. On our way back to collect our shoes we came across three young guys covered head to toe in Holi powder paint. We laughed with them and took a photo, at which point Lesley and I were ‘attacked’; Lesley coming off a little worse than me, but it wasn’t disastrous, just fun. It has been a real honour to have visited the Golden Temple another of India’s world class monuments and a fitting finale.
Our day concluded with a visit to the Summer Palace of the last Maharajah of the Punjab, Ranjit Singh (all Sikhs have Singh in their surname). This is the man who paid for the 24 carat gold coating of the Golden Temple and the original owner of the Koihnoor diamond. The enormous diamond was originally set in the bejewelled Peacock Throne made for Shah Jahan in 1628, before being pillaged to Persia and passing through countless hands before being secured by the Maharajah as a spoil of war. There is some controversy here as to how it then came into the hands of Queen Victoria, but it is at least displayed for all to see in the Imperial Crown. . The summer palace and garden need a considerable amount of restoration, which is now being undertaken. Local lads were playing cricket on a dirt pitch - no wonder they can handle spin. You will see this everywhere and cricket is undoubtedly the national game. On our way back to the coach we came across an Indian version of a pop up lolly shop, if you can call it that and stopped to watch. A large block of ice is shaved on very sharp embedded blade, moulded into the lolly shape and then natural flavourings of lime, lemon and orange poured over it in syrup form. Ingenious and the equivalent of 20pence.
And so, inevitably we headed back to the hotel to commence the big pack up for the long journey home. It is hard to sum up the last two and a half weeks in mere words. Our group have been friendly and great fun and we have enjoyed sharing this experience together. The organisation has been faultless. India is a culture shock to the westerner and you need to observe, accept and not judge its centuries old traditions. It is a land of immense contrasts in every respect, with an ethos all of its own. Ninety five percent of marriages are still arranged, the caste system is still all encompassing and as a western woman it is hard to handle the inequality between the sexes. A woman still cannot attend her husband’s funeral. The senses are assaulted on every level. It is colourful, challenging, full of beauty, artistry, squalor and at times overwhelming. I can honestly say, this trip has been a risk worth taking: we have stayed well and loved every minute of it. I am so grateful to have had the chance to have just touched the surface of this fascinating country. There is seriously nowhere like India! Thank you Lesley for coming with me. Something so beautiful is always better shared.Les mer
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- Dag 16
- mandag 9. mars 2020 16:03
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Høyde: 741 ft
- IndiaGolden Temple31°37’13” N 74°52’35” E
Amritsar and the Golden Temple
9. mars 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Here we are after two and half glorious weeks in India at our final port of call, Amritsar. Our day started early, yet again, and we caught the 5.30 am train from Chandigarh to Amritsar, which is a 4 hr journey. Drinks and snacks are constantly offered, from tea and coffee, cold omelettes, vegetable patties, biscuits and crisps. Note that British Rail cannot manage a drinks trolly! I have to say I avoided everything bar the crisps, as they were outside my ‘safe’ category, but they were available. We alighted on to a heaving platform at Amritsar and slowly made our way out of the station accompanied by a couple of cows strolling along amidst the crowd. No one took a blind bit of notice, even when one of them anointed the platform in their honour!
The evening saw us depart for the evening ceremony at the Golden Temple. Amritsar is the centre of The Sikh religion which is approximately 500 years old and believes in equality between genders, kindness and charity to all and welcomes everyone, regardless of religion, to their holy temple. We travelled as far as possible by coach and then by mad rickshaw, to within walking distance. The streets are dark and thronged with people, particularly bearing in mind it is the Holi Festival tomorrow, so all Sikhs that can, wish to worship at the temple. It is unsurprisingly an enormous complex and you enter the inner sanctum through a arched gateway, barefoot and modestly covered, including the head for both men and women, via a shallow foot bath.The archway is deep and stepped and when you arrive at the top of the steps there before you glitters the 24 carat golden temple in its sacred pool. It is a quite unbelievable sight, especially lit up at night. ‘Jessie’ our guide (name too long and complicated to pronounce!) explained all that was going to happen and some of us stood in the holy water, whilst taking in the sight of the faithful at worship, some prostrate, others immersing themselves in the pool. There were beautifully decorated prayer rooms all around the waters edge, where elders were reading aloud from the holy scripture and the white marble that is everywhere underfoot is cool to the feet. On Jessies’s instruction we headed to the temple itself, to witness the parade of the original holy scripture (Sri-Gur Granth Sahib) to its place of rest for the night, (it is a four poster bed!) amidst much chanting and veneration. The temple itself is even more beautiful in reality than from photographs, the interior heavily decorated with gold and painted surfaces, golden doors, jewel coloured carpets and stunning chandeliers, over two floors. Again, to our surprise, we were allowed full access. The Sikh religion is certainly inclusive. To our amazement, once the Holy Book was put to bed for the night, out came the Brasso! I should explain that there are brass vessels, railings and handrails everywhere and volunteers set to with a will to clean any brass in sight. This is apparently a nightly task, as is the brushing and beating of the carpets. By the time we came to exit the temple complex and reclaim our shoes, pilgrims were bedding down for the night, in alcoves and anywhere they could find, directly on to the marble floor with a thin blanket covering. This is perfectly acceptable and they must be a hardy breed, as it cannot be comfortable. We returned to our hotel elated at having witnessed such a ceremony and with the prospect of more to come tomorrow.
Today was Lesley’s birthday and it was certainly a day with a difference. We had a glass of something sparkling ( not the best in truth) and had our photograph taken to mark the occasion
(again not the best, but at our age when is it !?).Les mer
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- Dag 15
- søndag 8. mars 2020 17:17
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Høyde: 4 685 ft
- IndiaKandaghat30°57’56” N 77°6’27” E
The Milton Keynes of India!
8. mars 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Hari drove us back down to Chandigarh with his usual panache. We were now able to see the road and the surrounding countryside, which time and weather had denied us on our way up to Shimla. There are large sections of road undergoing reconstruction as I explained before. It was a real pickle, in part no road to speak of at all, traffic everywhere, dogs, pigs, cows and people and a policemen with a whistle attempting to direct operations! At one point, to our horror, a car came hurtling towards us going the the wrong way down the supposed road. Our driver deftly avoided the problem with an explosive ‘idiot’, but to be fair it isn’t the only time such a occurrence has happened! Only in India- this is not the place for a fly drive, unless one has cast iron nerves and lightning reflexes. Even on arriving In Chandigarh, where the roads are wide, tree lined avenues, the chaos remained. I would say the main roads were probably at least three lanes, but nothing is marked and the traffic is just a free for all. I found ‘eyes wide shut’ to be a useful aid!
Chandigarh is a new city, built as the capital of the Punjab, when the existing capital Lahore was annexed to Pakistan. Pandit Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister after independence, commissioned the city to be purpose built along modern lines. After a couple of false starts the Swiss/French architect Le Corbusier was appointed. He was famous during the post war period as part of the ‘brutalist’ group of architects responsible for the clean, modern, concrete lines of the 50s & 60s. Hence our guide’s likening Chandigarh to an Indian Milton Keynes. There are roundabouts galore and the city is built along a grid system and divided into sectors. No building is more than three storeys high and there is lots of green space, with walks, outdoor gyms etc and each sector has its own market. It was a new way of looking at communal living and certainly it would seem to have been a great success and adapted to the Indian way of life.
Our first port of call was The Chandigarh Rose Garden. It covers some 40 acres, has 32,000 plants and 825 species of rose. It was busy with people out enjoying the green space and roses, which were just coming into bloom. It was good to wander having been in a car for the last three hours or so.
Our final stop of the day was exceptional. You may remember Monty Don stopping here on his ‘80 Gardens around the World’ whistle stop tour. It is a Rock Garden created by Nek Chand, which he calls a Fantasy and I wouldn’t disagree. In the early 1950s he was seconded to Chandigarh to work on the city project. A huge dump site of discarded materials existed where the garden now stands. From 1957 to 1975 Nek would secretly spend his spare time in the evenings and nights creating sculptures from the leftovers and hiding them amongst the foliage. He created over 2000! They are now displayed to tremendous effect in the garden. In 1975 his secret life was discovered and the powers that be were initially not pleased and Nek was banned from the site. It was only later that the authorities realised what they had in the man and his creations and asked him to build a garden here.
Nek created a ‘rock’ garden for Chandigarh, the like of which you will have never seen in your life.
We had a first class young guide to show us around and explain the thoughts behind what we were seeing. The garden is created entirely out of recycled building materials, from concrete to coloured wires to plug sockets. A narrow path for the visitor to follow, weaves in and out of incredible features. Jaws dropped, I can assure you. The planting is almost entirely natural and minimal and redefines what a garden can be and my photos will give you a taste of what I mean. All I can say is we were totally bowled over and I declare Nek Chand to be a genius!Les mer
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- Dag 15
- søndag 8. mars 2020 04:06
- ☀️ 7 °C
- Høyde: 6 969 ft
- IndiaShimla31°6’12” N 77°9’18” E
The Toy Train
8. mars 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C
Our prayers have been answered! The day dawned bright and clear, with scarcely a cloud in sight.
Once luggage and breakfast had been dealt with, everyone rushed outside with their cameras to capture the views that had proved so elusive yesterday. Here at last were the snow covered peaks of the Lower Himalaya that we had come to see. The views were indeed worth the journey required to get here. We departed Shimla in style from the World Heritage Shimla Station, on the world famous Toy Train. This was the brain child of the then Viceroy, Lord Curzon who felt it would be an immense logistical bonus to link his Summer Capital with the plains of Delhi and so the construction of the narrow gauge Khalkha-Shimla Railway began in January 1891. The plans had been laid as far back as 1847, but had stalled until Lord Curzon’s intervention. As you can imagine this was a hugely difficult line to build, due to its length (95.5 kms) altitude and terrain. The climate of course did not help. The line passes through 102 tunnels, 988 bridges,, including a spectacular gallery bridge No 541 near Kanoh and 917 curves, some as steep as 48 degrees. This is a masterpiece of Victorian engineering - yet another! They did, of course, have plentiful labour available, but also the vision and drive to complete the task. It was opened for passengers on November 9th 1903 by Lord Curzon himself.
Shimla Station sits at 6811 ft above sea level and is a beautiful, small, still largely Victorian building. The Indian Railway is as far as I can see a well run, staffed and efficient organisation, much as our own railway would have been originally. Generations of families still continue to work for Indian Railways and their dedication makes the difference. The Diesel engine and the couplings were being carefully checked over as we arrived on the platform to board. Originally, the train would have been pulled by a steam locomotive and occasionally still is, but only for more important types than us (Michael Portillo and his film crew for example!). However, we pulled out of the station on time, watched by the monkeys sitting on the iron railings. They had been very entertaining.
So began what has to be the most stunning rail journey of my life. The scenery has to be seen to be believed, with towering mountains, deep valleys, and verdant forests of pine and rhododendron, just coming into bloom. We were plunged into tunnels and emerged into bright sunlight and the ever spectacular landscape all around us. The train stops at little stations with intriguing names such as Summerhill and TaraDevi. Along the platform comes the ‘tea boy’ with paper cups tucked in his top pocket and his pre made large kettle of tea. You can buy a cup through the window for 10 rupees (about 8p). As you descend to the plains the countryside becomes noticeably drier, the pines and rhododendrons disappear to be replaced by warmer climate loving varieties and the odd cactus. What was a surprise was the constant high level of population in a landscape I would have expected to be largely devoid of people. Farming is the main occupation and here it is hay making time. I could see farmers high on the steepest of slopes wielding a scythe. The mountainsides looked almost patchwork in effect as they were clearly cut one way and then another according to the terrain. As we neared Kandaghat our destination, we passed over the Kanoh bridge and then the train curves away to the left enabling you to crane your neck out of a window and see the incredible viaduct you have just passed over. It is almost Roman in its construction and elegance, being constructed entirely in stone.
Finally, we reluctantly disembarked at Kandaghat to meet up with our drivers once more. We walked down a long ramp to the road below to await the convoy of 10 white Toyotas, who had made the journey from Shimla by road as we were on the train. They appeared round the bend, only to be stopped in their tracks by a large cow, who settled in the middle of the road and until she decided to move nothing could be done. According to Hari, if you are unfortunate enough to hit one, it is an instant jail sentence. To quote him “ This is India and everything is possible!”.Les mer
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- Dag 14
- lørdag 7. mars 2020 12:11
- ❄️ 4 °C
- Høyde: 7 070 ft
- IndiaBoileauganj31°6’11” N 77°8’28” E
Shimla
7. mars 2020, India ⋅ ❄️ 4 °C
The prediction was correct and there was a three hour delay on our flight to Chandigarh yesterday morning, which of course threw all the timings out. Lunch became high tea and our journey in a fleet of cars to Shimla had to be undertaken after dark. ‘Hari’ was our driver. A lovely young chap with pretensions to Formula One. He would be a shoe in. It rained hard for the full three and a half hours, but the pace never slackened, overtaking was commonplace, blind corner or not, as the road twisted and turned its way upward into the Himalayan foothills. I had been disappointed that we couldn’t enjoy the views, but before we had reached half way, I was relieved I couldn’t see the sheer drops, that I suspect were there from the twinkling lights below! We arrived here at the Oberon Cecil at 9.15pm and Hari was delighted to be the first car here and fifteen minutes ahead of schedule.
We became further aware of our geographical location this morning when it snowed during breakfast! It was freezing. The snow turned to rain and the mist and cloud rolled in and out, obscuring the fabulous views for which Shimla is famous.
The town is perched high on the mountainside and the air has that undoubted alpine quality, clean and crisp. It was the summer capital of The British Raj from May to October during its rule in India. It would take 45 days to make the perilous journey by horse, mule, cart and carriage from Calcutta staying at staging posts on the way. With the Viceroy and his officials, their families and the attending army would come all the paperwork necessary to run the Indian sub-continent. The East India company found this strategic village as it was then, in the 1830s, by assisting the local Maharajah to fight off the Nepalese. They realised what a superb trading position this was and gradually inveigled the Maharajah to grant them land to set up a Trading Post. It’s proximity to the Silk Route was a huge incentive and advantage. The British followed on and built their summer residences here over the next decade. I have been looking forward to exploring the old town I had read so much about. It is not what I expected. A Scottish architect by the name of Henry Irving designed the main buildings and our first visit was to The Viceroy’s Lodge. I did not expect grim and dour Scottish Baronial architecture, both in and out. This is repeated in all the major buildings, including the Town Hall and the Gaiety Theatre, the latter having welcomed some incredibly famous stars over the last 150 years. Our tour of the former Viceroy’s Lodge proved very interesting however, and gave a strong flavour of how life was lived out here in strict Victorian times. The meetings leading up to India’s independence after the Second World War were held in the library and a solution eventually found, which resulted in partition and the formation of the Muslim state of Pakistan. This is still a contentious issue today, together with the status of Kashmir. We saw documentIon, photographs and the room in which the treaty was signed before being formalised in Delhi. The building became the summer home of the Indian President after independence and is now a research college for post graduate students.
The Mall is the Main Street and the buildings reflect mock Tudor frontages. There is a bandstand and both a Presbyterian and Anglican Church. At the end of the Mall is Scandal Point, so named after the young couple who met here secretly. The Viceroy at the time was Lord Curzon and his daughter Alexandra fell in love with the local Maharajah and he with her. Marrying was of course out of the question, on both sides at that time and their only option was to elope, hence the scandal. Sadly, it did not end happily. They were found and separated; Alexandra was sent back to England in disgrace and never married. The Maharajah was presented with a suitable bride, but apparently never forgot the love of his life.
The British are famous for creating a home from home wherever they find themselves and on thinking about it, Queen Victoria had purchased Balmoral around this time and all thing Scottish and Baronial were very fashionable. It seems to me that the British establishment set out to create a Scottish Highland retreat in the foothills of the Himalayas, complete with names such as Craig Dhu and the like . It is quite extraordinary.
Unfortunately, the weather did not improve during the day and we were glad to retire to the warmth of the Oberoi Cecil. Tomorrow we are due to leave on the Toy Train back to Chandigarh. It is apparently a hard ride, but worth it for the views. I can only hope the weather clears a little so some of the journey is visible. I have purchased a set of thermals. It is amazing what you can find in unexpected places!
PS. We have come across several of these signs on our travels ‘The English Wine Shop’ and been perplexed, as we don’t produce much wine, let alone enough to export to India in bulk. Hari explained today, that it is a euphemism for a whiskey shop, which is very popular here. No doubt a hang over from the days of the Raj.Les mer
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- Dag 12
- torsdag 5. mars 2020 09:21
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Høyde: 827 ft
- IndiaChandni Chowk28°39’7” N 77°13’46” E
Delhi
5. mars 2020, India ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Nowhere showcases the vast contrast that India represents more than its capital Delhi. Kolkata (Calcutta) was India’s capital city during the years of British rule, until King George V and Queen Mary visited and the Delhi Durbar was held in their honour. Every Maharajah in the country attended and the King/Emperor announced that the capital city was to be Delhi in the future. It is regarded as one of the best ever kept secrets in India, as it came as a complete surprise. All I can say is it would not happen today!! The British then set about creating New Delhi as a suitable seat of power for the sub-continent and invited the young architect Edwin Lutyens, together with Herbert Baker to design the new city. There are wide tree lined avenues and grand governmental buildings, including the seat of Parliament and the Viceroy’s residence of some 360 rooms, now the Presidential Estate. The architecture is a clever blend of Imperial with Indian influences and the whole effect is impressive and yet familiar to the British eye. The Presidential garden is open to the public for one month of the year and we were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time. It is very parks and gardens, with lots of water, but an amazing riot of colour in true Indian style. There are wonderful roses, stocks, freesias, sweet peas, giant dahlias, hollyhocks, violas, tulips, antirrhinum, in fact all sorts of ‘English’ flowers that were astounding to see in an Indian setting, plus beautiful sub-continental counterparts, all of huge proportions!. It is the best garden we have seen thus far, but then perhaps it should be!
A pilgrimage to Raj Ghat, Mahatma Ghandi’s cremation site was de rigeur. It is movingly and simply marked with a low table of black marble, flowers and the eternal flame, surrounded by immaculate lawns and gardens. Obviously, it is a place of supreme importance to Indian citizens and there were many paying their respects to the Father of the Nation.
Old Delhi is not so comfortable to the western eye, but must be seen to appreciate the vast differences both across the country and this city of 22 million. We took a rickshaw ride through the alleys and could only pity the wiry ‘driver’ entrusted with pedalling Lesley and I through the area. It is dark, filthy and teeming with people, dogs, scooters and the occasional cow! In short it is a city within a city, with a life of its own. Amazingly, normal life of a sort is lived amongst these backstreets. Electrical cables are festooned like garlands overhead and the sky only just visible through them. There are shops of every description; fruit and vegetable carts, street food being cooked and eaten, flower sellers and the beautiful sari shops set amidst the grime and squalor. People appear cheerful despite the wretched conditions and I suspect would not take the prospect of change easily. I sense a deep tradition throughout India and an equally deep resistance to ‘improvement’.
Lunch was taken in an atmospheric Indian ‘Bazaar’ restaurant in the old quarter. It boasted a four poster bed converted into a table and chairs, a vintage car and a collectible juke box to name but a few decorative features!
The afternoon saw us visit Hunnaman’s tomb, a precursor to the Taj Mahal built some hundred years earlier. It is an impressive piece of Mughal architecture, without coming close to the Taj of course, but you can see the origin of design.
The day finished with a visit to the Sunder Nursery close by. This is in fact a garden of some 30 acres, which had fallen into disrepair. A huge amount of restoration has been undertaken, largely financed by The Aga Khan Foundation. There is still work to do, but it is looking beautiful and a great green space for the population to enjoy, which they clearly do.
As you can tell this was a long day, but it did give us an overview of this complex and fascinating city and it is fair to say everyone was tired on finally returning to our hotel around 6pm, but it is amazing what a restorative G&T can do! It was time to pack up once more and be ready to move on. Some friends are heading home at the end of a spectacular two weeks, but some of us are heading to the summer capital of the British Raj, Shimla. Tomorrow will be a long travelling day and we expect delays due to a storm of biblical proportions during the evening. We have witnessed a touch of the Monsoon according to Sudhir our guide. I will be back in touch from Shimla.Les mer
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- Dag 11
- onsdag 4. mars 2020 06:30
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Høyde: 535 ft
- IndiaNagla Dhīmar27°10’22” N 78°2’32” E
The Taj Mahal
4. mars 2020, India ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Yet again, the alarm went off at 5o’clock for the obligatory visit to the Taj Mahal at sunrise and for once I get it. To come all this way and not see the eighth wonder of the world at the optimum time seems churlish. Perhaps I should explain a little about how this great mausoleum came into being, before going into raptures over its magnificence. In 1630 the Emperor Shah Jahan’s favourite wife died in childbirth at 39 years old and so desolate was he at her death, that he decided to build a tomb worthy of her memory, on the opposite bank of the river Yamuna facing the Agra Fort palace. This incredible feat involved bringing white marble from over 200 miles away and in total took one hundred thousand men twenty two years to construct. The mausoleum is set in a Paradise Garden, which is always rectangular and divided into four sections. Four ‘rivers’ which are usually rills/channels divide the Garden into four sections that represent the essentials of life; water, honey, milk and wine. Water, flowering plants, grass and trees are present in a variety of designs and it is no different in this case.
Shah Jahan designed the site in the Persian style of architecture, where balance and symmetry are supreme and this is one of reasons why the Taj Mahal is so pleasing to the eye. Everything is
perfectly balanced right to left and the perspective is so clever. All has been cleverly considered. Pre sunrise the building seems almost ethereal floating in the early morning mist.
You enter by the West Gate, which is a mix of sandstone and marble and a small foretaste of what is to come. Walking through the gate you are suddenly face to face with the Taj Mahal itself and it is breathtaking, stopping you in your tracks. As we were early, it was not too busy, but you still run the gauntlet of the ‘selfi’ snappers, who for some reason seem to think that they have a greater right than anyone else to pout and pose in prime positions- enough said, or I could be on a crusade! Approaching the mausoleum, you are struck by the peace of the scene and as you climb the steps to the entrance terrace you have the first opportunity to view the detail of the building itself. The white marble is stunningly decorated with carved cartouches of flowers, as we have seen before, and inlaid semi precious stone creating flower garlands within the marble. The artistry is mind blowing. To the left is a mosque built in the style of the west gate and to the right is an identical building, which serves no purpose, but to create the desired symmetry. Visitors are required to cover their shoes with paper ‘galoshes’ to protect the interior and understandably no photography is permitted. The interior is simple and yet not. It is octagonal in shape and the walls display a carved frieze of flowers, with large niches set into the walls, whilst above us soars a glorious white marble dome. A marble lace fretwork trellis surrounds the tomb. There are two arched openings perfectly aligned East and West as are all the entrances on the site. Again, there are stunning inlaid flowers on the surround and the tiny tomb itself. Shah Jahan’s wife was obviously petite in stature. Then appears the surprise. To the left, alongside her casket is a much larger version. Here lies the Shah himself, which was apparently not originally the plan. Obviously, it messes with the symmetry, but I guess we’ll forgive him, if he will forgive himself!
On returning to the outside, although cloudy, the sun is now up. The colours are sharper and clearer and the water glistens pure turquoise. I gather if you see the sun rise without the cloud cover, the effect on the building is even more startling.
I find it hard to put into words the effect this incredible mausoleum creates. It has to be the most magnificent and romantic gesture ever made by a loving husband to his wife. The feeling builds as you approach the Taj itself, but it is when inside that you really understand what this is all about.
There is a spiritual quality here that enfolds you as you enter the door. You can almost touch it and the Taj Mahal is undoubtedly a much deserved wonder of the world.
So what happened to the Emperor Shah Jahan following the death of his wife. Well, one can imagine that this building project consumed him for the next twenty two years and of course he had a country, court and family to occupy him. Succession is the normal situation i.e. the crown goes to the eldest son of the first wife. In Shah Jahan’s case this did not prove straightforward. The eldest son was a poet and there was concern as to his ability to hold the empire together, the second son had no interest in ruling, but was happy to remain a general in the army. The third son, Orensay, was a different creature completely. A strong army general and leader, he and others were concerned as to the state of the empire, should either of the other two brothers succeed their father. A deputation approached the Emperor with the idea of Orensay being declared his heir. Shah Jahan was sympathetic, but determined to stick with tradition. Orensay took matters into his own hands and in classical despot style, killed his brothers and imprisoned his father in the Palace under house arrest, wresting power for himself. Shah Jahan lived out the rest of his days, unable to visit his wife’s tomb and only able to view it from the terrace of the palace, from across the river Yamuna. At least his son allowed him to rest in peace, alongside his beloved wife.Les mer
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- Dag 10
- tirsdag 3. mars 2020 09:20
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Høyde: 564 ft
- IndiaBāgchi27°9’32” N 78°1’30” E
Road to Agra
3. mars 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Yet another bright (?!) and early start. The canters delivered us to the local railway station at Sawai
Madhopur Jn - rather apt we thought. The enormous train arrived on time (British Rail eat your heart out) , our reserved seats were ready and waiting and I’m tapping away to you seated in comfort, lots of leg room with the Rajasthan countryside flicking past at a rate of knots. We ate our packed breakfast on the way and I think of Michael Portillo and his various Indian train journeys! After two and a half hours we arrived at Bharatpur our destination and were met by our driver and the coach, who had departed the night before with our luggage to make the train journey easier. Incidentally ‘pur’ means city. We travelled for about an hour to Fatehpur Sikri another world heritage site. Here we hit traffic. There had been a Sufi Muslim festival further north and coach loads of pilgrims were returning to Delhi and were of the same mind as us, stopping off at Fatehpur Sikri. You have never seen anything like it. Dozens of coaches loaded to the gunnels with people and luggage, clothes hanging over and out of the windows. There were cooking pots, brilliantly coloured toy horses, children’s bikes and toys, bags of presumably more clothes, all precariously resting in the shallow luggage rack on top and amongst it all more people, with not a seat belt in sight!
When we eventually made it to Fatehpur Sikri we found an ancient city built entirely of local red sandstone and in an amazing state of preservation. The Mogul Emperor Akbar 111 built this city in the 1570s. He considered this a lucky site, as it was here that it was predicted that he would be blessed with a long awaited son and he was. Akbar spent nine years building the city and only held court there for twelve years before abandoning it for Agra, due to a lack of water. There was no evidence of a lack of water today, as the gardens were immaculate, full of brightly coloured flowers and you could have played bowls on the lawns. It was a huge and complex city, beautifully carved on many surfaces and apparently painted and hung with lavish textiles everywhere. One can only imagine the hustle and bustle of the court in its heyday. The Emperor himself was Muslim, but designed the buildings in a mix of Mogul and Hindu architecture and regularly held public audiences with the Hindu population, as he wished to appear a benevolent potentate.
After lunch our destination was Agra, with the plan to visit the Agra Fort another Mogul palace complex built over 90 years from 1565 by the the same Emperor and his successors.
It is all world heritage sites today! This is an equally spectacular building on a similar scale. There are a lot of similarities to the Amber Fort at Jaipur, as it was modelled on the Agra Fort. The details are quite incredible. Again water effects were centre stage; water being hauled from the nearby river by a system of water wheels, men and buffalo 24 hours a day.! The water was held in a huge reservoir high in the roof, before being released by little by little to feed all the rills, pools and fountains. Unfortunately, this is not recoverable, but it is clear what a fantastic effect all this water would have had. The palace ceilings were originally intricately painted and the pattern then given to the carpet makers and an identical carpet made for the floor in each room . This was the ultimate in interior design here in the 1600s. Richly embroidered fabrics covered doorways and were hung about the walls. Can you imagine how opulent it would all have been?
After an exhausting day we have finally arrived at our Agra hotel and I finally have a decent internet connection, hence I can upload the latest postings. If I am out of touch for a few days this will be the reason why!
One interesting coincidence today at the Agra Fort. We were waiting to enter and I glanced left and there was a friend from my Flower Club. I knew she was coming to India around the same time, but how about same time, same place ?! The old adage ‘it is a small world’ fits!!Les mer
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- Dag 8
- søndag 1. mars 2020 18:13
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Høyde: 863 ft
- IndiaKhilchīpur26°3’4” N 76°24’18” E
Ranthambhore National Park
1. mars 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We arrived at Sawai Villas, our hotel for the next two nights, after a four hour journey from Jaipur.
It was an interesting drive out into the countryside of Rajasthan. The hinterland surrounding Jaipur is surprisingly green and clearly very fertile. Small farms abound and three main crops of wheat, potatoes and guava are grown. Parts of the state are desert, but not here. The population appear in better health and there is evidence of much new building, which is encouraging. There are plenty of ruins also!
Our hotel is less than a year old and fabulous. We were greeted with sitar music, a garland each and a floor petal picture of welcome in the foyer. The rooms are beautiful and boast an indoor and outdoor shower, all arranged in blocks around a glorious landscaped pool.
Lunch was accompanied by lychee and lemongrass tea (delicious) and Lesley has set off to visit the old Rathnambhore fort set high above the park, dating from the 9th century and another world heritage site. Sadly, I have had to miss out, as I know the operated knee will not cope with the 300 steps up and down. I await her return with bated breath and will pass on her thoughts and here they are: there were indeed 300 steps, lots of very inquisitive Langur monkeys, temples, ruined palaces and fabulous views of the surrounding park.
The 5 o’clock rising this morning was unwelcome, but normal for this kind of activity and we were off on our first game drive of the day just after six, before the sun was up. We were driven in ‘canters’ large open top shake, rattle and roll conveyances that afford a good view but minimal comfort! The morning drive was on route 4 out of 5 different routes. Your route is prescribed by the park authorities, and it was up hill and down dale, through the forest and around a beautiful lake. Initially all was very quiet- can’t say I’m surprised, even the animals had more sense than to be up. As the morning progressed so did the variety of wildlife. Crocodiles appeared to bask on the lake shore, deer, both Spotted and Sambhar, large antelope ‘Bluebul’, mongoose and the bird life was prodigious; too many to mention. We were back at the hotel in time for a late breakfast, a few hours rest, lunch and then off again, this time on route 3. This was a stunning landscape and the romantic side of India, as you would imagine it, in your dreams. There were classically beautiful ruins scattered along the route, often sited by one of the many picturesque lakes, crags rise above you and when you stop the silence and peace is absolute, only broken by the sound of the birds and wildlife. This is Kipling’s India; an experience to be savoured and a reminder that this entire area was once the hunting estate of the Maharajah of Jaipur. Deer were everywhere, langurs cavorting around in family groups and peacocks with their mournful cry. A hare appeared out of nowhere, a solitary wild boar snuffling about at the waters edge and more glorious birds. Lesley and I were in our element. Of course the major reason people throng to Ranthambhore is the prospect of seeing its most famous resident and top predator. There are some 45 tigers in the park, plus cubs and we realised that the chances of seeing one would be slim. They are elusive creatures, but our guide did say that we were travelling through the territory of a mother and two cubs. At the very end of the drive we passed a park jeep who told Surinder that a tiger was in the forest a short distance ahead. Our driver put his foot down and if there had been a roof on our vehicle, heads would have hit it! We arrived at the resting place of the tiger together with the world and his wife and initially it was difficult to pick her out amongst the bush, but there she sat staring at us, less than 15ft away. It was a quite unbelievable moment and one I shall never forget. She was incredibly well camouflaged, her stripes blending in with the dappled sunlight filtering through the trees. The attendant crowd watched in awe. I can only liken it to an audience with a Maharajah in full jewelled regalia. Eventually, she yawned in boredom, stood up and with a flick of her tail stalked off into the thick bush, clearly tired of this mass of excited humans. Photographs came out with only a degree of clarity. The best in our group was from a lady who had bought a new 1Phone with its updated camera. Lesley and I count ourselves as unbelievably fortunate to be able to see a wild tiger in all her majesty and our visit to Ranthambhore was complete.Les mer
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- Dag 7
- lørdag 29. februar 2020 08:00
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Høyde: 1 398 ft
- IndiaMaota Lake26°58’48” N 75°51’8” E
The Amber Fort
29. februar 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
It was an early start this morning as Sudhir, our local guide, wanted to beat the crowds to the Amber Fort. You can see the outline of the building perched on the mountain top, high above the Pink City, but it is not until you get up there that the sheer scale of the ancient city is apparent.
This was the original capital of the Maharajas of Jaipur until the court outgrew the site and
Sawai Jai Singh 11 decided to built a new city in 1727 on the plain and Jaipur was born.
The coach could only take us so far and we disembarked to the sound of a snake charmer’s call and there was a cobra transfixed in its basket. Thankfully, it scarcely moved! Here we could view the palace complex over the lake, sitting on its mountain top. It is surrounded by a sixteen kilometre wall for protection, which together with the water and sheer cliffs would have proven pretty effective I should think. Transport for the final section is by jeep and at one time used to be by elephant, but not any longer. Health and safety has apparently reared its head even here, which is hard to believe.
We rocketed up the final narrow track, hanging on for dear life, to arrive at the Amber Fort. Through the main gate is a huge courtyard and elephants were here giving rides to those who would do so. We progressed up the steps to the upper courtyard and the Palace itself. Before entering the palace we explored the Hall of Public Audience, where the Maharajah met his subjects and officials to deal with any problems that had arisen. The facade of the Palace itself is beautifully decorated with hand painting and we progressed through to the inner courtyard where sits the Hall of Private Audience where visiting ambassadors and high ranking officials and friends were received. This is one of the major attractions of the Fort. It is known as Sheesh Mahal or Glass Palace and is constructed of white marble. The walls and ceilings are covered with intricate patterns inset with glass, appearing silvery from a distance. There are superb cartouche carvings of plants at intervals and the whole effect is spellbinding. The Maharajah had up to twelve wives at any one time, clearly a busy fellow; each wife having her own apartment in the wives quarter. They could only view the outside world in the form of the courtyard through the latticed wall high up on the upper walkway and numbers 1,2 and 3 wives were expected to be at their allotted windows to welcome their husband home at the appropriate time!!
The view of the surrounding lake from this high up was glorious, as was the inner courtyard garden that we could now look down upon. It was very similar to an English knot garden, with the addition of fountains and running water, alas no longer working.
We departed for our lunch stop as the crowds were beginning to build and we forgave Sudhir’s insistence on an early start. The hotel we stopped at for lunch was opposite another beautiful lake on the outskirts of Jaipur and we had a very good view of the now abandoned summer palace, sitting in the middle of the lake. One can only imagine what it must have been like in it’s heyday.
The afternoon was devoted to shopping of one sort and another; block printed fabrics, stunning carpets and jewellery. For a group of mainly ladies this was a popular and interesting couple of hours. The techniques involved with all three were demonstrated and fascinating.
And so we have come to the end of our first week in Jaipur and we move on tomorrow to Ranthambhore National Park. A total contrast, but it will be good to see the rural side of Rajasthan.Les mer
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- Dag 6
- fredag 28. februar 2020 16:11
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Høyde: 1 260 ft
- IndiaBandh26°59’34” N 75°53’8” E
Elephantastic
28. februar 2020, India ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
Lesley and I have had a complete change of scene today, by visiting an Elephant sanctuary.
It is set just outside Jaipur and a driver took us and brought us back. We passed right through the middle of the old city, which was thronged with people and vehicles in every direction. Progress was slow, but it did enable us to gaze with fascination on everyday Indian life. By the end of the day there is rubbish everywhere. No one seems to think it would be a good idea to tidy up or take it home, but apparently it is collected from the streets overnight. We found this hard to believe, but it was in fact the case as we saw this morning. Please don’t run away with the idea that it was pristine first thing, just a slight improvement!
We encountered several weddings and when I asked whether it was usual to have weddings midweek, our driver replied that there was no particular day, but that the couple would consult an astrologer who would advise as to the most auspicious day for their union. This is clearly a good day for many.
On arriving at the sanctuary we were warmly welcomed and introduced to five female Asian elephants. We were to look after Simpha. She is forty six years old and brought up by the family who runs the farm. They have twenty four elephants at the moment, some are theirs and others have been rescued and they have taken them in. We started by getting up close and personal! Elephants have poor eyesight and can only see 20-25 yards ahead, but their hearing and sense of smell is acute. We were encouraged to stroke and talk to her, which would enable her to get to know us. Her mahout told us that by the end of the afternoon she would be our true friend and if we were to return five years later, she would know us. Elephants are very intelligent animals and have a prodigious memory. It was then feeding time and we fed her sugar cane. You have to place the cane on to the tip of her trunk with the word ‘lei’ which means ‘take it’. She will then carefully manipulate it to the right angle before putting it in her mouth and crunching away.
If you are a bit slow with delivery, she will let you know with a rumble! Feeding time over, it was time to paint her with vegetable paints. She stood very still and let us do this and we painted a flower garland down her trunk. It was no Leonardo, but sufficed. Then came bath time - yes, here is where we get soaked we thought. We had taken a change of clothes just in case, but it was not needed. A hose was produced and her first requirement was a drink and what a drink. You pour the water into the end of her trunk and it disappears miraculously upwards. I guess when full, she pulls her trunk away and shoots the water into her mouth. The trunk holds about 10 litres of water and we did this at least 10 times - some drink! We then hosed her down and scrubbed where we could reach. A large bowl of water sat in front of her and we kept expecting her to spray us any time, but Simpha was a complete lady and behaved impeccably. Once clean we took her for a walk . She needs to walk a minimum of 15kms daily, but we only did 2! It was then time to say goodbye to our new friend, thank the staff and return to our hotel.
It was a fascinating insight into the world of the Asian elephant. We learned a lot and consider it a real privilege to have spent some time with Simpha, one of the iconic animals of India.
As a postscript, tonight, a wedding procession passed our hotel and we rushed out to look. The bridegroom was in the middle of the throng beautifully dressed and mounted on an equally fabulously dressed white horse. It I’d customary for him to approach the bride’s family in such a fashion on the big day. It was a joyous end to a special day.Les mer
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- Dag 5
- torsdag 27. februar 2020 11:57
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Høyde: 1 447 ft
- IndiaAshok Nagar26°54’38” N 75°48’43” E
WAFA
27. februar 2020, India ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
It has been the opening day of the World Flower Show today and by the time we left at 6pm we were flowered out! The show is set in and around the Diggi Palace in a smart suburb of Jaipur.
Well, smart by Indian standards that is. It was beautifully set out, air conditioned in the halls, the sun shone and the temperature was steady at a pleasant 75 degrees. We were surrounded by bright jewel like colours in flowers, fabrics, furniture, signs and the Indians themselves of course, flitting about like brightly coloured butterflies. It was something of a gathering of the flowery clans, in that I saw lots of people I knew, both from the UK and across the world.
The competition was of a high standard and there was lots to admire and examine. As ever, there was the usual discussion over incomprehensible judging decisions and there was a large Indian Bazaar set out full of tempting things to buy. Perhaps luckily, I had forgotten to top up my purse from the safe, with a consequence that my buying power was severely restricted. Some of my readers might consider that a good thing!
I could wax lyrical about this flower and that, my design and technique favourites and so forth, but rather than take things too far for the uninitiated, I will include a few photos instead.Les mer
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- Dag 3
- tirsdag 25. februar 2020
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Høyde: 1 467 ft
- IndiaJaipur26°55’22” N 75°48’17” E
Trumpism even here!
25. februar 2020, India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Yesterday was a somewhat more civilised start at 9.30am and we headed for The Albert Hall Museum, built in 1887 again to commemorate the visit of the Prince of Wales. We were surprised that this did not refer to his father, but then remembered that King Edward was in fact named after his father, but took the name Edward on ascending to the throne. The museum is a magnificent structure on approach, a fanciful mix of marble and sandstone, with cupolas, minarets and arches, layered like a wedding cake. Sadly, it was not possible to enter as had been planned by the company two years ago, as the building was unexpectedly closed, in case President Trump or his delegation happened to drop by! So trumped in more ways than one!! This caused some consternation amongst the guides, as you can imagine and we waited whilst alternative arrangements were made. Eventually it was decided to move on to our second port of call Sisodia Rani Ka Bagh, which basically means the orchard or gardens of Queen Sisodia. She was the wife of the First Maharajah of Jaipur, who built the original city and whilst he was at it created a summer palace and paradise garden for his favourite wife, in the hills outside the city, for her relaxation and contemplation. Some wives have all the luck! It is a beautiful setting, again incongruously surrounded by rubble and rubbish and at its peak must have been spectacular with its lawns and rills and fountains. As is the custom with a Paradise Garden, it is divided into four sections divided by the waterways and plated with palms, roses and frangipani. Gardeners were working, weeding and mowing the lawns. It is clearly irrigated, as it is surprisingly green, however sadly the attempts to restore the water system have not been successful, as the palace itself would have to be dug up to achieve it. Lunch followed at a polo club. India of course introduced polo to the British in the time of the Raj.
After lunch we visited ‘The Jantar Mantar’ a nineteenth century astrological park also built by The First Maharajah, Jai Singh 11. He had a ferocious interest in astronomy and the park is quite something in its scientific detail, particularly bearing in mind how early it was constructed. It is now a world heritage site and quite unique.
The day finished with a visit to a local ‘bazaar’. This is basically the high street of shopping. The roads are rutted and crammed; crossing them means taking your life in your hands. The advice of our guide is that you step off and keep going and the traffic will stop. It’s a concept that requires a degree of faith and a lot of courage. We are getting used to it. The shops are little shacks selling everything from shoes to jewellery to household goods to clothing. You never pay the price asked. The plan is to suggest below half and negotiate from there. It was hilarious. We were looking for some fabric for Lesley’s daughter and in truth could not really see what she needed. You are enticed into the shop and all sorts of cloths are brought out and then the bargaining begins. As we did not find the ideal piece, we were not bothered and shopkeepers chased us down the street reducing the price as we went. Harrods it isn’t, but I think we have the hang of it fo another time!
Today has been our quiet day (yes, it was certainly needed). We had a walk up the road to the nearest ATM, which I had been to the other day and I took a couple of others on this occasion. It is hard to explain what it is like around our very grand Haveli. The street it is on is manic and a mecca for all things auto; tyres, mechanical parts, lubes, and exhausts to name but a few. It’s rather a shame it could not be clothing from our point of view! What pavement there is is strewn with men sitting, sorting out cars and generally going about their business - very slowly from what we could see. We were of intense interest to them and are in general it seems. I have lost count of the number of times we have been stopped and asked for a photograph with a local. Yes, us, two old girls of dubious attraction these days. Wonders will never cease.
The sides of the road are dusty and covered in piles of rubble, motor bikes, cars, trucks, discarded
motor parts and general detritus. The traffic streams past, horns ever honking, in a seemingly never ending stream. You walk on the edge of the road because there is nowhere else to go and keep your wits about you believe me. We made it to the ATM and back in one piece and in the middle of all this chaos if a simple arch with a small sign stating Alsisar Haveli. It is not an auspicious entrance and you could have no idea of the grandeur that lies through that arch.
We managed to have a relaxing massage in the spa this afternoon and visited an enormous Hindu temple this evening at sunset for its end of day service, which was an interesting experience, surrounded by the faithful and it seemed a suitable finish to a peaceful day.Les mer
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- Dag 2
- mandag 24. februar 2020 00:00
- 🌙 16 °C
- Høyde: 1 434 ft
- IndiaRambagh26°54’18” N 75°48’48” E
First Impressions
24. februar 2020, India ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
I have long held the ambition to visit India and in particular Rajasthan and have to keep pinching myself to believe that Lesley and I are actually here. It’s quite difficult to know where to begin after our first day, so I guess the beginning is the place to start! We arrived here in Jaipur late last night after a long and tiring journey. Our hotel, Alsisar Haveli, is a converted Maharaja’s palace and as exotic and ornate as you might imagine. There are some 35 such establishments in Jaipur as the old ruling families find ways to diversify and keep their ancestral homes alive.
Despite only a few hours sleep, we were up and out by 7.30 am to catch the flower market at its peak. On the way, we stopped to view the Palace of the Winds, a world famous pink sandstone edifice, which to my surprise is beside a busy road. Sadly, it is only a facade for a more mundane building and has some 350 screened windows, for the ladies of the family to look out on the the scene below in privacy! The flower market is held within the walls of the old city and we entered through one of the main gates, the East or Sun Gate. There is a west gate known as the Moon gate and many other smaller entrances beside. The flower market was a complete assault on the senses; perfume, colour, people, monkeys, noise and surrounding ramshackle buildings, all in one glorious kaleidoscope. The flowers are mainly in head form, for making into garlands as offerings at the many temples. We watched both ladies and men making them up deftly and with a great eye for colour. It was almost more than our tired brains could assimilate, but what a beginning.
We wandered on to the fruit and vegetable market, which was equally fantastic. The produce, both fruit, vegetables and flowers are gathered in the early hours of the morning 365 days a year and brought in daily for the public to buy. The selection and quality is astonishing. Ladies wander by with enormous bundles balanced on their heads (great posture), men are chattering incessantly (well they would), handcarts full of wares push past and a barber is wet shaving a client on the side of the path and so it goes on. Everything you could imagine and more.
From there we walked the streets to meet our coach. You are accosted by a jumble of smart buildings, temples, telephone wires, ruins, sacred cows and the odd pig. Scooters whip past you with whole families piled on top. Chaotic would not be too extreme, but it is also lively, friendly and not at all intimidating.
Our next stop was the Citi Palace, home of the last ruling Maharaja of Jaipur. The first Maharajah built the old city as his new capital between 1727-48. The family still live in the adjoining Moon Palace, but the head of the family can no longer call himself Maharaja according to modern Indian law. The palace is out of this world architecturally and decoratively. Like all of the old city it is painted saffron pink, hence the moniker ‘Pink City’. This came about due to the visit in 1867 of the then Prince of Wales, the future Edward V11. A ‘Durbar’ (Council meeting) was held to decide how best to welcome the Prince with suitable aplomb and the decision taken to paint the whole of the city pink. It certainly created the desired impression and it has been this way ever since. When Edward ascended to the throne, the Maharaja was invited to the coronation and set off to attend with his large retinue and two huge silver flagons of Ganges water. These were specially transported, for the Maharaja’s drinking water as he flatly refused to contemplate drinking ‘Thames water’! These are the largest silver vessels in the world made from one single sheet of metal, with no joins. They are on display in glass cases and the thought of moving them anywhere is quite mindboggling.
We wandered around this huge exalted complex and found ourselves in the Peacock courtyard.
It is very beautiful and has four superb peacock doorways to depict the four seasons and has to be seen to be believed. Having admired the textile museum, which was crammed full of glorious costumes and locally made fabric, we went to met our coach and were driven through teeming ever narrower streets until arriving quite unexpectedly at Samode Haveli for lunch. This is an oasis of calm and tranquility hidden, in plain sight, in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the old city. Here are beautiful gardens full of flowers and plants. There is a luxurious swimming pool and outdoor lounging courtyards full of running water, fountains and greenery. This is another Maharajas palace full of heavily decorated rooms and now operating as a hotel.
Lunch was really good and my preconceived notions of Indian cuisine are changing rapidly!
After lunch we were taken by tuk tuk across town to the site of the filming of the Exotic Marigold Hotel Series. We careered down backstreets with all of life being lived out in the street. It was a barmy, white knuckle, but exhilarating ride. The traffic is utterly mad. They come from all directions, weaving in and out like lunatics, horns blaring and how there are not constant collisions I’ll never know. I suspect viewed from above it would like a intricately choreographed group dance! As a driver you certainly need incredible reflexes. The owner of the Haveli used in the filming is a very tall, retired, distinguished Indian Army Brigadier. He and his wife were charming and very hospitable, conversing all the time in perfect English with little accent and it brought our first day in India to a lively and modern close. A slice of India both ancient and modern has been offered up and absorbed with fascination. We headed back to the tuk tuks to retrace ours steps back to the coach and ultimately our hotel. It has been a mind blowing day and my mind is reeling, but in a thoroughly good way. Roll on tomorrow!Les mer
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- Dag 25
- mandag 23. september 2019
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Høyde: 72 ft
Forente staterEl Paseo Plaza de la Guerra34°25’13” N 119°42’10” W
Santa Barbara
23. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
It is winding down time, as our California journey draws to a close and we are trying not to rush about too much and take things easier.
The final day in Cambria was spent exploring the little town, walking the beach (great driftwood - if only!), watching the antics of the harbour seals, visiting a really good Friday farmers market and walking to the Sea Chest, the seafood restaurant not far from our hotel. The sunset was again world class and our time in this beautiful neck of the woods was regrettably finished.
Saturday was for moving on to our final port of call, Santa Barbara. It was about a two and a half hour drive through miles of market garden crops, before hitting the more barren mountainous slopes guarding the coast. We stopped at a little town called Solvang, commonly billed as the Danish capital of America. We had not planned a visit, but knew it was on our way and had heard people discussing it. The buildings are constructed in Danish style and national dress is prominent, plus food and drink redolent of Denmark. There is King Frederick Street and a replica of the Little Mermaid on her rock in Copenhagen Square. Peter’s main concern was to find a Danish Pastry shop which we did pretty quickly. The major problem was to choose one from the many varieties on offer. There was of course lager galore, people in Viking helmets, entertainment, including axe throwing(!) and a parade later in the afternoon. As you can imagine the small town was heaving. It was a good break, but we escaped before the promised parade shut the town down. I do find it a strange concept that American citizens several generations later, need to recreate a country most cannot remember, or have ever visited. There are other examples up and down the country and in conversation, almost the first thing an American will ask you is, ‘where do you come from’? Of course, a large proportion of the population came here to escape tyranny and in particular religious persecution and so often emigrated as whole villages. Everyone is an immigrant of one type or another and roots are important. Consequently, nationalities hold on to their old way of life, whilst adapting to modern America, which one often forgets is a very young country.
We arrived in Santa Barbara mid afternoon and the temperature had climbed to the high eighties. It is a much larger town/ small city and dubbed California’s Riviera. It was one of the early towns founded by the Spanish and has a ‘mission’ complex and Presidio which were headquarters of the church and the ruling military respectively. It is shielded inland by the Santa Ynez Mountain Range and still has a very distinctive old Spanish feel. In 1925 the town was virtually destroyed by a strong earthquake and the decision taken to rebuild it exactly as it had been. The Old Courthouse is the oldest building still standing, dating from 1786. It remains the working court for the area and is beautifully decorated with murals and original brightly coloured tiles. It was open today and has a viewing tower, from which one can see all over the surrounding area. Again this is a very green city, with lots of trees, particularly palms and the Harbour and Fisherman’s Wharf are very attractive, sitting on its gently curved bay. This is still a working fishing port and you can buy fish and seafood direct from the boats if there at the correct time. Trails lead all over the town and surrounding country and I can see, like Cambria, this is also a lovely spot to live. It has character and community and interestingly is a totally non smoking town in any public building or on the street. I have yet to see anyone smoking or vaping. Incidentally, vaping is heavily criticised here in the US and is considered as dangerous as smoking itself.
Tomorrow is our final day and we plan to spend it on the Old Trolley Bus Tour, which has been highly recommended. Again it can be hopped on or off and I suspect we will learn a lot. We hope to take a closer look at the Old Mission (well rebuilt, as the original was destroyed in the earthquake) as we gather it is obligatory to do so! It will then be time to repack the suitcases for the last time and head home on Tuesday.
So, what is our overall impression of the snapshot of California we have taken over the last four weeks. We have driven close on 2000 miles and seen some incredible scenery, which to be fair is our main interest. Death Valley, Yosemite, Napa Valley, the Big Sur and Monterey Peninsula Coast are all world class. We have loved some of the smaller towns and perhaps the only slight question mark would be the large conurbations, of which San Francisco and Las Vegas were the largest we visited and really that is due to the throng of people and traffic. The extreme corporate ethos and wall to wall concrete we could probably live without, but it it has been fascinating to explore. The people of America remain as friendly, well mannered and helpful as we have always found them to be. If you are stuck and unsure what to do next, there will always be someone who will come to your aid unbidden. We can learn a lot from that approach and I will endeavour to follow it as my California lesson learned!
Au revoir everyone and see you soon.Les mer
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- Dag 21
- torsdag 19. september 2019
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterMoonstone Beach35°34’33” N 121°6’48” W
Hearst Castle
19. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
William Randolph Hearst, the media magnate, was born into money. His senator father George had made a fortune in mining and he bought the property that the family always knew as ‘the ranch’ in 1865. They glamped on the hilltop every summer for many years and adored the ranch, gradually increasing it’s size to 250,000 acres. Willie’s mother Phoebe, was a strong and influential figure on her son and society in general, being an educator and strong believer in women’s rights. She took her young son on two Grand Tours to Europe, which had a lasting effect on him and kick started the collecting bug, something that never left him. Hearst was 56 when his mother died and he inherited the ranch, along with the family businesses and fortune, which he had added to considerably with his media empire. By then he was married and had five sons and decided that he would employ his mother’s favourite architect Julia Morgan to build a ‘simple holiday home’ in his favourite spot in the world, high on the hill outside San Simeon. This collaboration continued for 28 years, until Williams’s death and that holiday home evolved into a four storey opulent retreat, one of the most extravagant homes in the world. The main house, or Casa Grande, is based on a Rhonda cathedral and consists of over a hundred rooms, There are three guest ‘cottages’, an incredible ‘Neptune’ pool, indoor Roman pool tiled with over 3million blue and 24 carat gold Murano mosaics, specially commissioned. Italianate gardens, a mile long pergola covered in vines, fruit trees and last but not least the largest private zoo in the world. The access road twists and turns as it climbs towards the castle giving tantalising glimpses of what is to come. Julia Morgan was Hearst’s Svengali, designing this Mediterranean Revival estate and filling it with art and antiques from Hearst’s vast collection. There are beautiful medieval Spanish and Italian ceilings bought, dismantled and incorporated into every room in the house. Tapestries and art work of incredible provenance decorate the walls. Persian carpets are laid on sprung wooden floors. The furniture is a mix of the ancient and modern comfort. Beds are exquisite examples of antiquity with modern springing and mattresses. Doors are carved, painted and studded and in the magnificent library, almost incidentally, there are 450 superb examples of Greek urns, painted to depict the everyday life of Ancient Greece. There are Egyptian statues of the Gods, Italian statuary, alabaster and jade statuettes converted into lamps, Gregorian chants on vellum made into lampshades and I could go on and on. When William Hearst died at 88 years old, only 10% of his vast collection had been incorporated into the ranch. He had seven other homes and there is a huge repository in New York a block long and 4 storeys high filled with artefacts of all types. Collecting on this scale is almost impossible to comprehend, although wealthy individuals have embarked on such schemes before and since.
We were not sure quite what to expect when we arrived at the visitor centre today. We had a tour of the Grand Rooms booked for the morning and the Upstairs Suites this afternoon. In between we admired the gardens and grabbed some lunch. I knew this was an extraordinary estate, but in truth had not fully comprehended the scale of it. The great, the good and the not so good were invited and entertained lavishly, the heydays being the 20s and 30s. You are conducted on a tour by very knowledgeable guides and room after fabulous room unfolds before your eyes. Bearing in mind prohibition, the drinks cellar and butlers pantry are locked away behind bank vault doors!
I am sorry if this dialogue is somewhat muddled, but my mind is still in a whirl, full of gorgeous vistas and impressions and I cannot begin to try and explain the overall effect, except to say it is quite unbelievable. I think one of the most interesting aspects is that Hearst and Morgan took artefacts from all over the Mediterranean and of differing periods, plus huge pieces of architecture and blended it so superbly into a homogenous whole. This really should not be the case, but somehow it works and it has been a real lesson in creativity and the power of what unlimited funds can do.
The ranch is still a working ranch owned by the Hearst Corporation. The house and gardens and tracts of coast have been donated to the State of California for public access, because it was latterly seen as a white elephant in business terms, without the driving force of its creator. William Randolph Hearst and Julia Morgan always felt they were creating a museum of Renaissance and Gothic treasures and would no doubt be delighted that over a million visitors a year now enter its portals. Hearst felt that as many Americans would never be able to visit Europe for themselves to see such magnificence, he would bring it to them and boy has he ever! Hearst worked and played hard all his life, existing on little sleep and his ‘simple ranch holiday home’ must surely be the legacy to end all legacies.
Hopefully some photos to follow when possible!Les mer
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- Dag 20
- onsdag 18. september 2019
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterMoonstone Beach35°34’33” N 121°6’48” W
The Big Sur
18. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Our day started in Carmel, just down the road from Monterey, before we tackled our long drive. It is heavily talked up as a beautiful unspoiled town, that had the temerity to elect Clint Eastwood as its Mayor some years ago. Like a lot of the Monterey area, it has some lovely properties (at a price of course) and upmarket shops galore, which probably reflect its inhabitants. We walked down to the beach which is truly glorious; white, white sand, blue, blue sea, vegetation to the beach edge and not a hint of commercialism in sight. That has been left for downtown, cleverly and artfully done, but somehow soul less. We were disappointed and didn’t stay long.
The Big Sur is the regional name for the spectacular ninety miles of cliffs and crashing seas along the California coast between Monterey and San Simeon in the south. The coastline is jagged and dramatic and either collected into States parks of one form or another or in private hands. Yet again it is a drive to savour. The sea is blue and sparkling in the sunshine, mountains flow down to the sea, redwoods tower above you in the southern most groves of the trees long coastal chain and the Rte 1 road hugs the shoreline with gritty determination, sometimes at sea level, other times clinging to the rock face several hundred feet high. All the books tell you to take your time and spend days exploring, hiking, nude sunbathing(well of course!), swimming in rivers and the rest of it. All very well if you have days to spare and can yomp for California, some of us have to be more circumspect and a day is all you have. We had to avoid the hikes, both on the time front and the risk of further damage to my knee, but decided we would use the many Vista pull offs to good effect. Travelling north to south, made it easy as we were on the correct side of the road to facilitate this and the views just opened up in front of us all the way down. It was absolutely stunning.
Yet another drive of your life!
The road was completed in 1937 and took eighteen years to build. Prior to this, the inhabitants of the Big Sur had to be almost entirely self sufficient, by farming, raising cattle and trapping sea otters for their fur. The only connection with the outside world was the occasional call of the steamship line to Monterey, or a nearly impassable trail over the mountains to the Salinas Valley. This was spectacular wilderness country and in truth still is. Despite the improved transport links, fewer people live here today (approximately 1000), than in 1900. Most of the ranches remain the the hands of the original pioneer homestead families and they have successfully fought off obtrusive development and government plans to allow offshore drilling. Climatic conditions are harsh, hot, cold, windy and the Flora colonising the cliff tops and mountain sides have to be tough and well adapted to survive. Growing wild was pampas grass and fennel, erica ceanothus and mesembryanthemum flowering bright pink all over the salt sprayed cliff tops. I gather in the spring there are wildflowers everywhere, but the fog which drifts on to the coast is more prevalent. You can’t have everything!
As you reach San Simeon the mountains retreat and the road flattens out. Our final stop was at the Elephant Seal Colony at Piedras Blancas.
The boardwalk overlooks the beach and there spreadeagled on the sand are these huge torpedo like creatures snoozing. Every now and then, one of them flips sand over its skin ( think sunscreen for the uninitiated!). We watched them for a couple of minutes and then Peter said “is this it - all they do”. ‘Well yes, at the moment’. I replied. “Ok, we’re off”, came the retort. I get it, they’re probably an acquired taste.
We arrived here in Cambria around 4pm. The Fog Catcher (yep, unusual name for a hotel) is right on the beach and our room overlooks it.
The sunset over the ocean was breathtaking. This small town is as genuine as Carmel was not. It is quiet and completely different from anywhere else we have been, but then they have all been different! We are booked to visit Hearst Castle tomorrow, but otherwise I sense chill time is coming. Not before time do I hear you say?
I’m going to upload this footprint without photos, as the internet is weak here - must be the sea breezes!
I’ll try to add some pics later.Les mer
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- Dag 19
- tirsdag 17. september 2019
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Høyde: 105 ft
- Forente staterAguajito Creek36°35’31” N 121°52’35” W
The Monterey Peninsula
17. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
The small town of Monterey claims to be and probably is the most historic settlement in California, named by the Spanish explorer Sebastian Vizcaino in 1602. It was the capital of the enormous California Alta mission when under Spanish rule. It gradually lost its prominence once California was taken back by the United States in 1849 and the Gold Rush saw the meteoric rise of San Francisco thereafter. There are several buildings reflecting Monterey’s colonial past standing unassumingly in the downtown district. Surprisingly, Robert Louis Stevenson lived here for a while, writing for the local newspaper and apparently started to write Treasure Island in his lodgings, basing Spyglass Hill on Point Lobos just south of here. Another author heavily associated with Monterey is John Steinbeck. During World War 11 Monterey was the sardine capital of the western world catching and canning 200,000 tonnes a year. By the time Steinbeck’s famous novel Cannery Row was published in 1945 the sardines were overfished and all in a can. The canneries were abandoned, falling into disrepair. In recent times the old factories have been cleverly remodelled into shops, museums, restaurants and a world class Aquarium. Having explored the historic downtown we arrived at the Aquarium supposedly for a quick look. It was fascinating and beautifully curated; in fact it was difficult to tear ourselves away. The star of the show for me were the sea otters, gorgeous creatures that they are. As luck would have it Emily FaceTimed at that moment and I was able to show them to Rafe (another fan) and we oohed and aahed together. At one point he said “Grandma, get the sea otter to come to your phone, so I can see him better!” I was just about to tell him it was not possible, when one of them did just that and rollicked about in front of us. Oh wow! The Aquarium is primarily about conservation and covers all aspects of sea and coastal life quite brilliantly and I would recommend a visit to anyone in the area.
Knowing we only had one day to cover Monterey and it’s Peninsula we tore ourselves away and headed out to drive the shoreline. It was a beautiful clear sunny day and I cannot tell you what an amazing coastline this is. The ocean is a clear green/blue, the surf dramatic as it crashes on to the rocks, the beaches heavenly and the native gnarled cypress trees that grow right down to the shore in parts, paint stunning vistas in all directions. The peninsula is home to several fabulous golf courses, including the world famous Pebble Beach, host to the US Open on many occasions. Fantastic homes in the multi millionaire bracket hug the coast and are continuing to be constructed. We stopped at Cypress Point overlook and there sat a perfect cottage (well, a big very well appointed cottage!) with its own private cove. It would do for me and just to add to the perfection of the scene, I looked out to sea and just off the beach was a wild sea otter playing in the surf. My cup runneth over. We continued on to the Pebble Beach Golf Club and stopped for a look round. What a place. Peter thinks the next golfing away day should be here!! It has to be one of the most beautiful courses in the world. We arrived back at our hotel in time for a quick change for dinner at The Sardine Factory. Humm, I can hear you thinking. This is one of the canning factories, put to new use. The restaurant has been here for 50 years and what a revelation it turned out to be. I had heard of it via Rick Stein’s recent road trip down the California Coast to Mexico and booked it from home on the internet. It looks nothing from the outside, but inside is a palace, consisting of five different themed dining rooms, each one a tour de force. We were in a circular conservatory of vast proportions. The food was of course of similar standard and artistically presented. We had to start with the smoked sardines of course, went on to the Sand Dabs (local specialty) and finished with chocolate coated ice cream Bon-Bon’s, served over smoking dry ice and accompanied by chopped hazelnuts and caramel sauce; pure theatre. Thank you Rick. A perfect end to a perfect day!Les mer
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- Dag 17
- søndag 15. september 2019
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterFisherman's Wharf37°48’25” N 122°24’46” W
All Around San Fran
15. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
This has been our final day in San Francisco and we attempted to cover just a few high points of the city. A difficult feat, when in truth you would need to be here a month to come close. Getting around is reasonably easy, as there are a multitude of public transport options. We started off with a trolley bus to market street, which is the main commercial street, walked two blocks north to Union Square. Here you have Saks Fifth Avenue on one side, Macy’s opposite, Tiffany’s to the left and The Francis Hotel on the only side left. Window shopping is by far the best option! We picked up a bus to the Golden Gate Park. This a huge green space bigger than and based on Central Park in New York. This part of the city was originally sand dunes, before being reclaimed and stabilised with natural flora. With in its bounds are the California Academy of Science, the deYoung Museum, a Bison paddock, yes with real bison in it, a large Kew style conservatory, the Botanic Gardens the Japanese Tea Gardens. We neither had the time or energy to explore all, but did our best to cover a small section! Being garden lovers, I suppose it was inevitable that we would eventually gravitate towards the Japanese Tea Garden. It is a legacy from the Midwinter Fair of 1894. It was beautifully landscaped by the Hagiwara family, who looked after the garden until the advent of World War 11, when like all Japanese Americans they were interned and after the war the city would not let them return. Fortunately, their beautiful creation has continued to be be nurtured and has matured into the largest such garden outside of Japan.
Tired out, we caught the Big Red Bus back towards Fisherman’s Wharf via downtown. ‘Oh look’ says Peter ‘a shop called Good Vibrations-
after the blog!’ ‘Not a total surprise’ says I, ‘this is California and being a Beach Boys fan, I named it after one of their songs that would set the scene’. It was only as we drew closer that I thought the window display seemed rather odd and on closer examination the wording over the door became readable. Here was the San Francisco Museum of Vibrators! You will probably not be surprised to hear that we did not jump off the bus to investigate further. A final supper at Scoma (very good seafood restaurant in the fishing marina) beckoned and somehow seemed more appealing. A quirky place San Fran, as stated in an earlier episode!!Les mer
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- Dag 16
- lørdag 14. september 2019
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterFisherman's Wharf37°48’25” N 122°24’46” W
Alcatraz
14. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
A mile out into San Francisco Bay lies a rocky outcrop known the world over as Alcatraz Island. It has a long and notorious history and began life as a civil war fort in the 1850s, built by the US Army as part of its western defence plan against Confederate raiders. By the 1900s the civil war was long gone and it’s defences had become obsolete, so it was decommissioned, but Alcatraz has been a prison since those early days both for Confederate soldiers, Yankee deserters and Native American warriors captured during the the various Indian Wars. It was not until the Great Depression of the 1930s that the Department of Justice took over responsibility for Alcatraz, opening it as a Federal Penitentiary
In 1934. Of the 1545 men who did time on Alcatraz, only a handful were notorious, among them Al ‘Scarface’ Capone, George ‘Machine Gun’ Kelly, Alvin ‘Creepy’ Karpis and Robert Stroud ‘ the Birdman of Alcatraz’. The vast majority of the inmates had been escape risks and troublemakers in other prison populations. Possibly because of its isolation, few visitors and secrecy, Alcatraz earned the reputation of being tough and with miserable living conditions. Certainly the routine was hard and the building stark and bleak, this being a maximum security facility, but it was clean and the food good. Only 14 prisoners ever attempted to escape and none succeeded. Prisoners arrived in chains and were issued with a blue uniform after showering and taken to their 9’ by 5’ cell. On the bed were the rules and regulations of the prison and
No 5 stated “You are entitled to food, clothing, shelter and medical attention. Anything else you get is a privilege.” This was the reality of life within the toughest of US Penitentiary, Alcatraz Island.
The island is now a National Park and managed accordingly. There are over a million visitors annually. Your journey begins at Pier 33 along with a boat full of visitors and the journey across the bay takes approximately 10 minutes. The crossing is choppy, currents vicious, the water cold and the island is foreboding on approach. The concrete cell block sits high on the citadel of the island with a variety of facilities placed around it. There are electrical sheds, the guardhouse, military chapel, a morgue, a lighthouse, the warden’s house, a general store and officers club, barracks and apartments for the guards and their families and perhaps most surprising of all gardens, planted by the families who lived here in a tight, small, village like community. Most of these are now in quite a dilapidated condition and as you make your way up the long steep walk to the cell block, it is hard to imagine children playing and normal life continuing around this Penitentiary, so far removed from everyday living. As part of your visit you are given an audio guide which is first class in the picture it paints of life here and the inmates incarcerated within.
I was reminded of our visit to Robyn Island off Cape Town, although there the conditions were undoubtedly harsher, but the principle is the same. In each cell is a lavatory, a rudimentary bed, blankets and pillow, a metal stool attached to the wall and a similar small ledge like table.
No personal belongings were allowed unless you complied and behaved, when some privileges were then introduced. Two communal showers were allowed per week and meals were taken leg shackled in the dining room, where you had 20 minutes to eat your meal. The wind whistles through the building at all times and bad behaviour resulted in solitary confinement or even locking up in one of the six hell holes permanently in the dark. It is chilling, but men found ways to survive and cope. Surprisingly, bridge was a popular occupation and those men allowed to do so, would spend hours outside in the cold quadrangle playing.
In many ways, I think one of the most difficult aspects of being imprisoned here would have been the close proximity to one of the liveliest and attractive cities in the USA. The views across to the mainland, the Golden Gate Bridge and Bay Bridge are beautiful and it is said that on New Years Eve after lights out at 9.30, the inmates could hear the revelry onshore, voices and laughter carried out on the wind, only reminding them of their isolation. The prison was closed in 1963 by the then Attorney General Robert F Kennedy, due to increasing costs and maintenance. This was a fascinating visit, well worth making and we arrived back on the Wharf perhaps rather more thoughtful than we had left. In search of a restorative cup of coffee we came across the latest dog episode. A seemingly normal couple pushing a largish brown bull dog type dog in a candy pink pushchair, with matching harness and frilly headpiece. If I had had the nerve, I would have asked if I could have taken a photograph, but feared I would have been unable to keep a straight face!Les mer
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- Dag 15
- fredag 13. september 2019 20:54
- 🌙 24 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterFisherman's Wharf37°48’25” N 122°24’46” W
San Francisco an Overview
13. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
Rome is built on seven hills, goodness knows how many make up San Francisco and they are seriously steep. In particular The Lombard St crooked street of Steve McQueen car chase fame! We have had the bad luck to be here in the week that the cable cars are out of commission for an overhaul, so sadly no cable car ride. As a consequence we took the Big Bus tour to give us an overview of the city, which did the job, but was excruciatingly hot (in the 90s today) on the top deck and filled with really irritating people who seemed unable to sit still for more than five minutes at a time. I know, I’m being unreasonable, but every time I had a photo opportunity some sweet soul jumped up in front of me, but some photos did come out as you will see. At the end of the three hour trip it was back to the hotel for a cool down. It is apparently going to be much cooler tomorrow.
The San Franciscans are very proud of their home as a city of charm and culture. They are not wrong. It is quirky and In general I like it. Like all big cities there are parts that are less than salubrious and they clearly have a huge homeless problem, particularly in certain areas. Fisherman’s Wharf is rather too like an upmarket Gt Yarmouth for my taste, but the seafood is divine.
The architecture around the city is outstanding from all eras and the buildings sit juxtaposed to one another with great effect. There are still some pre Earthquake and lots from the twenties and thirties. Downtown and the Financial District are ultra modern and there is the largest China Town here in the USA. Haight-Ashbury is as attractive and bohemian as you would imagine the home of flower power and the hippie culture to be. This a very green city. Trees line the streets and there are parks everywhere. The Golden Gate Park is larger than Central Park in New York. There is an very classical Opera House, Ballet Theatre and a brand new Symphony Hall built in the shape of a Grand Piano, key windows and all. As you approach the Golden Gate Bridge, the breeze picks up and the temperature drops. Once on the bridge itself, you need to hold on to your hat and anything else that may be taken by the wind. It is as spectacular a structure close to and from a distance, in its rust coloured glory. (Apparently, this colour is called international orange?! ). I can see why it has become iconic. The views are magnificent and on a majestic scale; looking back towards city, the Wharfs and out to the open ocean. A plethora of little sailing boats cut backwards and forwards, together with larger sea going vessels on their way to goodness knows where. The Bay is made up of a variety of microclimates due to the interaction of the landforms and the sea and whilst it was 80 degrees on the Golden Gate Bridge, it was 93 on the Wharfs and 105 in East Bay. It has a reputation here, similar to the UK, in that you could experience all four seasons in one day. At the moment though it is definitely Indian Summer and this is normal apparently. You are unlikely to suffer the sea fog that can blight the earlier summer months. Having said that we haven’t lost the chance!
There is much talk of this being the most expensive city to live in, rental and real estate wise. Rents are high and some of the beautiful houses change hands for millions it is true, but the same could be said of Chelsea and Knightsbridge. I suspect it is like many a prosperous city (and it is riding a techno bubble at the moment), it is the place to be and the law of supply and demand rules.Les mer
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- Dag 14
- torsdag 12. september 2019
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Høyde: 43 ft
- Forente staterFisherman's Wharf37°48’25” N 122°24’46” W
San Francisco
12. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
It is not far from the Napa Valley to San Francisco, but it could be a different universe. On a good day it might only take you just over an hour, traffic being the deciding factor. It was a two hour drive today and we were scarcely out of the Napa Valley before the clear blue of the vast tracts of ocean that make up the Bay area came into view. This is a city in an extraordinary setting. Three lanes of traffic became five and six, vast petrochemical plants lined the waterfront at one point and signs indicated names that belong in fiction, newsreels and on the movies: Berkeley, Oakland, San Jose, Haight-Ashbury (of flower power and hippie fame) Stanford and Sausilito. This is the home of Levi’s, Twitter, the genesis of the United Nations and Silicon Valley, a little to the south. The city itself is only 47 square miles, but the suburban sprawl extends all around the Bay Area. Tantalising glimpses of the famous Golden Gate Bridge glittered in the distance reminding me of the explosion of the population from 1848 onwards with the beginning of the California Gold Rush. Within a year fifty thousand pioneers arrived (the 49ers) and transformed a muddy village to a thriving supply and transit boomtown. As most of you will know a massive earthquake wiped out three quarters of the city in 1906 and the city has risen like a Phoenix from the ashes, bigger and better than before.
We are staying in the Fisherman’s Wharf Area, which we walked round this afternoon. A good lunch was taken at Boudains, founded by Isadore Boudin, a master baker who arrived here from Burgundy in 1849, hoping to make it rich off Gold Rush miners. He perfected the modern Sourdough loaf and the original starter yeast-bacteria culture developed during the Gold Rush is still being used. We had been warned that the Bay Area would be cool in comparison to the Napa Valley. It was eighty in the shade and thronged with people. We retreated back to the cool of the hotel and an iced drink. This evening we ventured out in search of supper. This a fish and seafood lovers paradise and restaurants line the wharfs. We were spoilt for choice and chose one almost on the eeny meeny miney mo method. It didn’t look that encouraging from the outside, although the menu looked promising (in particular the truffled halibut). We were directed upstairs in the elevator and stepping out was a surprise. Here was a well set out room with panoramic views over the marina and the Golden Gate Bridge. As we ate a flaming sun set behind the bridge, turning the sky crimson with the bridge silhouetted against it. It was quite a first night and the halibut was delicious!Les mer
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- Dag 12
- tirsdag 10. september 2019
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Høyde: 46 ft
- Forente staterNapa Creek38°18’19” N 122°16’59” W
The Wine Train
10. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The Wine Train is a relaxed, elegant day out. It is all very civilised and well organised. Several routes are run every day and passengers gather
In large meeting room reminiscent of a sofa clad departure lounge. You are shown to your carriage according to your destination. The carriages are Pullman types mostly built around 1915. They have been lovingly and lavishly restored using mahogany panelling, brass accents, velveteen armchairs and the tables are beautifully laid ready for lunch. The train gently travels north through the Napa Valley, which in common with all the wine growing valleys we have seen all over the world, is hemmed in with mountain ranges, which together with the soil and climate help create the perfect conditions for growing grapes and making wine. Wineries line the train track and vines stretch as far as the eye can see. Probably the two most well known names here are Robert Mondavi and Grgich Hills and it was to the latter that the Wine Train delivered us. The first two courses were served before we arrived and the food was delicious. How the chefs produce food of that calibre on the move and in such cramped conditions is beyond me. A lively knowledgeable lady called Toni showed us around the winery, combining process with tasting in an action packed hour. We were lucky enough to have a fun and friendly group which added to the experience and the tasting continued on the return, together with the final two courses of our lunch. It was a fun day.
Miljenko (Mike)Grgich is 96 years old and still checks on his operations daily. He came from Croatia as a young man, with a wine background and bringing with him the Zinfandel grape. Robert Mondavi employed Mike as a young winemaker and then he moved to the Montelena winery. It was whilst he was with Montelena that he created the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that beat the French at their own game, in the Paris Blind tasting competition in 1976 and put Napa Valley on the serious wine producing map. He later set up his own winery with his friend Austin Hills (of the Hills coffee family) and has been there ever since with continuing success. We tasted five wines. The Fume’ Blanc was great, Chardonnay iffy to me, but I’m no Chardonnay lover, Zinfandel yuk (horrible aftertaste on the tongue), good Merlot and a reserve Chardonnay, that has similarly won multiple awards and even I admit was really good.
We plan to visit one or two other wineries tomorrow. Interestingly, there is quite a high charge at all the wineries for a tasting. There was talk today about the decrease in visitors to the wineries and all sorts of theories put forward as to why. In all the countries where we have visited wineries only once was a small charge made ( Cloudy Bay in New Zealand) and yet this was not mentioned as a possible cause. The minimum charge is $25 and can rise to $45. I would think this must be having an effect.
This morning, after some housekeeping (haircut & the laundromat!), we set off for the Hess winery in the hills above Napa. This was recommended as an excellent winery, with lunch, a wine tasting and an interesting modern art collection to view. It was a glorious day and a beautiful drive up into the hills. On arrival, the winery was superbly set in gardens with modern sculpture dotted around; very much to our taste. However, on enquiry no lunch, despite the recommendation and information on the website, consequently no tasting, as we needed the food first. I do feel these wineries are missing a trick. The food doesn’t have to be in the Heston Blumenthal bracket, something a lot simpler would suffice and I feel it would attract and hold people. As a consequence, we ducked the wine tasting and went to view the modern art collection. Some was interesting and fabulous, some Peter felt he could have knocked off between main course and desert!
To my total surprise in one gallery was an exhibition by the British Landscape artist Andy Goldsworth. Andy is much admired by me and others within the floral art world, due to his inspirational use of natural objects in his work. Born in Cheshire and now residing in Dumfries and Galloway, he was the last artist I would have expected to view in California. His pieces had clearly been executed in residence and were for me the stars of the show, although there were some fine pieces by Francis Bacon not to be ignored.
We rather gave up on the wine tasting after that, as having rediscovered Wholefoods ( superb grocery store) and having devoured lunch we decided to peruse the very good outlet mall and stock up on some essentials. There was no jumping in and out of itinerant cars, but a certain waving about of the ubiquitous credit card.
I must include a poster that I took a photograph of before leaving Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite. California has a reputation of being a bit ‘out there and alternative’ in the rest of the US and this may partly explain why!Les mer
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- Dag 11
- mandag 9. september 2019 18:36
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Høyde: 46 ft
- Forente staterNapa Creek38°17’55” N 122°17’1” W
The Napa Valley
9. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Yesterday, we travelled up from Yosemite to the Napa Valley; a long but uneventful drive. You could say we have moved from the spiritual to the spirit! Today we have explored the town of Napa itself, which is classic middle America, well presented, leafy and clean. It is only about an hour from San Francisco and consequently is a favourite for weekends. Two valleys lay side by side, Napa and Sonoma, both famous for their wines and there are certainly plenty of wineries to chose from. One interesting thing we have noticed since arriving here, is the proliferation of microbreweries and the production of local good quality beers, or so Peter tells me. This would have been unheard of thirty years ago when we first came to America. A gassy lager was the best you could hope for and now there are beer flights to accompany the wine version. We had supper tonight at the Stone Brewery, a large converted warehouse on the river, very atmospheric and with more draught beers on offer than you could shake a stick at.
Our day tomorrow consists of a trip on the Napa Wine Train. A vintage well appointed train which serves a gourmet lunch whilst cruising the valley. We are to stop at one of the oldest wineries for a tour and a tasting. I’ll let you know how it goes.
There was one incident of mirth worth mentioning this morning. We parked our car in a designated car park to go and investigate a couple of restaurants. On returning to the car Peter was ahead of me and I hopped into the car as usual and went to put my seat belt on. It took me a second or two to twig that my maps were not in the side pocket and the water bottles in the central console weren’t familiar. I looked up to find no Peter in the driver’s seat and realised that I had jumped into the wrong car! They were both dark grey identical SUVs - an easy mistake I keep telling myself. I’m simply relieved the car’s owner wasn’t in situ and embarrassing explanations could be avoided. My bad luck was that the identikit model had been left unlocked. I was out of there in no time and dashed to our own to find PL in fits of laughter as you can imagine. I will endeavour to behave tomorrow!Les mer
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- Dag 7
- torsdag 5. september 2019
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Høyde: 5 180 ft
- Forente staterFish Camp37°28’23” N 119°38’7” W
Yosemite
5. september 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
The 5.45am rising was less than welcome as you can imagine. It was dark for God’s sake, but like a lot of things you have to make a special effort for, boy was it worth it. Amanda was our guide; a great all American girl, born, raised and now working in Yosemite. As she said, not a bad place for your back yard!
The word Yosemite means Grizzly Bear in Native American and was appropriated by the first white men (of the Mariposa Battalion) to discover the valley in 1851 when hunting for Chief Tenaya and his warriors who had been attacking settlers and had retreated into the valley. Shortly afterwards two pioneers arrived, Galen Clark and John Muir who were to be instrumental in the saving of the area for the nation. In 1864 Abraham Lincoln signed the first bill of protection and the land became the property of California State for the use of the population and to conserve its natural beauty. Galen Clark was appointed its first guardian and he, together with John Muir and a small band of believers battled to keep developers from the valley and its surrounds, in particular the giant Sequoias at Mariposa Grove. Things were desperate by the early 1900s and in 1903 John Muir invited Theodore Roosevelt to visit the area and the two camped together on what is now known as Roosevelt Meadow, as Muir tried to convince the President that this valley, the Mariposa Grove and the surrounding wilderness must be saved for the nation. Roosevelt returned to Washington and shortly afterwards Yosemite became federal land and together with Yellowstone became the first National Parks. There are now some 400, both big and small and it has to be one of the best decisions ever to be taken by a democratic government.
We were at our first post of call, Glacier Point by 8am and we were far from alone! From this famous vantage point one can see over a quarter of the Park and you don’t know which way to look, the view is so spectacular. Looking down, the valley floor is a mile beneath you. There were Pika’s feeding on the berries in the low bushes all around. They are cute, rather fat squirrel look a likes, that only live at very high altitude. I was thrilled to see two in the flesh and one little devil even posed for us on top of a rock. I think he had done this before!
We moved on to the famous entrance to Yosemite Valley, which incorporates, Bridal Veil Falls, Half Dome and El Capitan to name but three. The weather was perfect for photography and we gazed in wonder at the sight before us.
Dragging us away was Amanda’s job and the next stop was the trailhead for Bridal Veil Falls. It is about a half mile hike to the base of the falls and quite something to stand under this huge plume of water permanently cascading over the cliffs to hit the rocks some 600ft below. Where the sun hits the water, you can often see multiple rainbows as Peter and I had the previous day on our way in. On our return to the parking lot, I stopped to read an information board and Peter stood to one side wool gathering. Up stride three guys and head straight for him : ‘cuse me buddy, but which fork is the way to the falls.’ PL looked rather like a rabbit caught in headlights; directions hardly being his thing. “Oh er, left I think......yes definitely left!” ‘Gee thanks Bud” and off they go. He looks at me agonised and says “that is right isn’t it, why on earth did they come to me?! Goodness knows. It’s this noticeability, even when standing still!
There are many waterfalls in the valley, Yosemite Falls having the longest drop of 2,400ft to the valley floor.
Sentinel Bridge is another beautiful viewpoint, with the crystal clear River Merced running beneath and Half Dome as a backdrop and reflected in the mirrored surface of the river. A tiny wooden chapel stands by a meadow with the 3000ft sheer granite cliffs of El Capitan glowering down over it. The massive granite cliff face of El Capitan is so high, that two and a half Empire State Buildings could be stacked against the cliff face. It is just over 3000ft high and its surface is unbelievably smooth and polished, again due to glaciation. This is a Mecca for rock climbers both in the US and all over the world. They will tell you here that Yosemite began the sport of rock climbing. (Scotland may beg to differ!). Hundreds of climbers attempt this huge wall every year, some taking several days to achieve their dream and camping on temporary bivouac ledges they fasten to the rock face. The thought made my blood run cold; attempting to climb it is bad enough, but imagine rolling over in the night up there!! Free style solo climbing has become the latest challenge. Alex Honnold has climbed El Capitan twice with no aids, ropes or safety equipment. His first successful attempt took him 4 hours and the second 1hour 58mins! The rumour is that he is due back here this month to try and break his own record. Mad or what! We stood at the base of the cliff looking up and the climbers were tiny coloured specks, if you could even see them at all.
Our day finished at Mariposa Grove, the home of the giant Sequoias, the largest living thing on the planet. These trees are very picky in their habitat, refusing to grow below 5000 ft above sea level and needing a watershed beneath them also. A mature specimen can grow up to 300ft tall, have a trunk 25ft thick and drink 1000 gallons of water a day. They can live for up to 2000 years and one particularly large and ancient tree in the Grove was a sapling when Julius Caesar was emperor in Ancient Rome. They are majestic and walking through the Grove is like being in Nature’s Cathedral.
As you can gather it has been a fabulous day and we count ourselves so lucky to have made it here. These places of natural beauty and wilderness are essential for the soul. I will conclude by quoting John Muir on Yosemite “ It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter”. Amen to that.Les mer
ReisendeHi Dulcie. This is the first time I have caught up on here! Loved reading your blogs and feel we could have done with you all those years ago that we visited these places! Certainly bringing back some memories. Glad you having a good time. I didn't cope too well in Yosemite. Got a migraine in Las Vegas and remember Nick telling me that I wasn't getting the full effect of Death Valley with the air con set to arctic!!
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