The Little Karoo
13. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika
Swellendam, Western Cape, South Africa
Thursday, January 14, 2016
We awoke to a familiar sound this morning, the pit patter of rain on the patio! The locals are ecstatic, as the whole of South Africa is in the grip of a drought after the winter rains failed.
It was a travelling day in any case, as we had 225kms to cover through the Little Karoo to Oudtshoorn the ostrich capital of the world. Rte 62 is the inland mountain equivalent of the garden route and tends to be overlooked as a consequence. It is takes you through dramatic passes and valleys, through small non tourist dorps (towns) and villages and gives one the opportunity to see South Africa behind closed doors. Our journey today did all of that, plus the chance to view the Little Karoo first hand. This is an area of arid semi desert, in contrast with oases of fertile green valleys. The landscape is majestic and awe inspiring as the road rises and falls through a series of badlands where the colours seem almost sepia like. It is clothed in low fynbos of yet a different mix. When you stop and look closely it is a different story, plants are beautifully adapted to their habitat and there are flowers, but subtle and often strange looking. In the spring this region is a riot of brilliant colour for a few weeks, when everything flowers at once with the spring rains.
There were a couple of interesting places en route that will hold in the mind. Firstly, Barrydale, a small but charming town through Tradouw's Pass, with a character that makes you feel that it could be named after Barry on the Eggheads. We dropped into the best organised small supermarket I think I have ever come across and this was only reinforced by the fact that they sold oasis. I did a double take. You can scarcely buy it in the UK, let alone in the back end of South Africa! For those of you who have no clue what I am talking about - it is floral foam used for flower arranging. On advice we stopped at Diesel and Creamery, a converted garage and gas station whose decor is 1950s kitsch and quirky. They serve the best milk shakes in the world. There were Butterick sewing patterns framed on the back of the 'senhoritas' doors, a pair of stilettos in the corner as an adornment and a vintage bra hanging by the wash basin. I dread to think what artefacts were in the 'senhors' and as Peter didn't require the convenience, I didn't find out!
Secondly, in the middle of nowhere, with no settlement in site, loomed a low white building by the side of the road. Plastered on the side in bold lettering were the words 'RONNIES SEX SHOP'. I kid you not. There is photographic evidence. Peter screamed to a halt; he claims to take a photo?! There were several cars parked outside and it was only later that we found out that it is in fact a pub and the unusual name is to attract the curious customer. Sheer genius!
We arrived here in Oudtshoorn about 3pm and are staying at a small boutique hotel called The Rosenhof. Pure Victoriana, antique furniture and all. This is of course very much in keeping with the boom time of Oudtshoorn, when Victorian fashion was desperate for the very best ostrich feathers and the land and climate are perfect for their rearing. By the 1880s hundreds of thousands of kilograms of feathers were being exported for vast sums and serious fortunes were made. We will investigate this further tomorrow.
As a postscript, Peter, on prowling the room, (as is his habit), has come across this curious plugged in device that appears to have no purpose. 'What do think this is?' says he? 'Do you think we are being spied on?'
'Well' says I 'if that is the case they are going to be seriously disappointed!'
And on that note I'll say Nite Nite!!Les mer
Swellendam
13. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika
Swellendam, Western Cape, South Africa
Wednesday, January 13, 2016
Today has been a moving day so not too much to report.
'Martin' was in full cry at breakfast, minus 'Ann', who was not feeling too well apparently. Probably just couldn't stand the thought of a few more tales, which she has no doubt heard countless times before. He is great sportsman, as you might expect and has over the years become friendly and played with a number of international players (unnamed of course, as were the sports). He has been having a little trouble at work though, as one of his co workers hasn't spoken to him for 3 months (hardly surprising) and so he requested a meeting with said worker and their line manager to thrash it out. Various nebulous reasons were put forward, but as Martin said " such nonsense is not going to get me down, having been with Special Branch in Islamabad being stoned and spat on !!!” After a slice of Sheila's excellent carrot cake, we were almost sorry to move on and couldn't decide whether he has led a very full life or is something of a Walter Mitty character. I leave you to work that out for yourselves!
The scenery on the journey to Swellendam was different once more. We were travelling away from the coast to the base of the Overberg Mountains. The countryside is majestic and agricultural, with wide open fields as far as the eye can see, backed by craggy peaks in the distance. There were some livestock and rather like New Zealand, farms are isolated and vast. We saw cranes and birds of prey enroute, arriving in Swellendam mid afternoon. It is small, unspoiled and a bit of a one horse town and was originally an administration centre and stopping off point logistically for the Dutch East India Co. It is surrounded by beautiful countryside however, although we will probably have little time to see too much, as it is a one night stop.
However, the surprise package was our Guest House, Rothman Manor. A pure Cape Dutch Manor House complete with thatched roof and a garden to die for. I will include some pics. The suite is superbly appointed even to having a modern four poster bed. Nina, who showed us to our room, suggested we have a look round and discover the surprise at the bottom of the garden. No, not fairies, but zebra and springbok! There is a very deep haha separating the garden from the wild patch (plus an electric fence I should add) and there they were cropping the grass quietly. Now I believe we are in Africa.
Just out of interest the second surprise package came in the shape of a restaurant named Field & Fork this evening. A very old old building lit by candlelight ( a big help at our age of course!) It was fabulous and by far the best meal we have had. The chef is a 24yr old young lady who could hold her head up anywhere and we were still nowhere near the £40 mark.Les mer
Hermanus
12. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika
Hermanus, Hermanus, South Africa
Tuesday, January 12, 2016
We arrived here yesterday afternoon after another beautiful drive from Franschoek, which we were sorry to leave. Hermanus sits on rocky cliffs to the northern end of Walker Bay, with the Overberg Mountains behind. This area is known as the whale coast, as during the winter months ie June to December large numbers of whales congregate to calve and raise their young in the sheltered waters here. They are so plentiful and come in so close to shore that they can be observed from the cliffs and thousands gather to watch the spectacle. There are also many trips out to view them from a boat and even now off season you can take a trip to see the sea life around Dyer Island. Here are large numbers of seals and penguins, plus large white sharks which prey on them. The stretch of sea between Dyer Island and the mainland in known as shark alley. Interesting .........but I think we'll pass!
We are staying at a Guest House called Oceans Eleven, which is very comfortable and our room looks out right over the Bay. If it were the right time of year one could theoretically lay in bed and whale watch from there! Guest houses are interesting places, usually for the abundant opportunity to people watch and the little gems they produce. We hadn't been here 5 mins before a Martin Bryce character strode into view and we have been avid observers ever since. (Richard Briers played Martin in 'Ever Decreasing Circles' for those of you who have no idea what I am talking about). 'Martin' is English of course and felt it necessary to give those of us unfortunate enough to be in reception at the time a blow by blow account of his day. This mornings breakfast produced another couple of bon mots. He had to tell all of the run he and 'Angela' (make that Ann) had had first thing this morning, which he had let her win. 'It's a question of the tortoise and the snail!'......Bless him! He was quiet only when eating and the classic was ......'let me tell you I have a very valuable collection of vinyls!' Right....and moving swiftly on....Can't wait for the next encounter, but a cliff walk awaits and we had better get going.
The coastal cliff path is approximately 5kms long and is a lovely walk, however much of it you tackle. The views of the rocky coastline and Walker Bay are unsurpassed. As you will see from the photos the specially adapted coastal fynbos is fascinating. There are so many different species clinging to the salt laden cliff top, a habitat you would think any plant would struggle with. Because of the conditions and the wind the vegetation tends to be low and some sections are more like a natural rock garden. Our hotel sits about half way along the path, so we decided to walk one half to the New Harbour and back again. Yet again we were in luck and saw two hyraxes; one basking in a rock and the other hopped across our path.
This is all part of the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and after lunch we visited the mountain section which is just out of town. Here are larger plant specimens more suited to a mountainside. There were the proteas of all types, larger Ericas and many more plants I couldn't name. It has been a fascinating flora orientated day and the knee has held up to its longest walk to date, with the brace of course. We are heading back to the New Harbour this evening for a seafood supper, hopefully on some of the enormous crayfish we saw landed this morning.Les mer
The Wine Tram
10. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ 23 °C
Cape Winelands, Western Cape, South Africa
Sunday, January 10, 2016
We awoke feeing slightly punch drunk this morning after our marathon effort yesterday. No, we were not hungover as you only take little sips on the tastings! Mind you, that's more than can be said for a couple of guys at breakfast who looked decidedly seedy and struggled to eat anything to the clear annoyance of their wives! Sympathy was not obvious.
At 11.30 we joined the wine tram that visits a variety of wineries around Franschoek. It's rather like a hop on hop off bus, with the advantage that you can indulge in yet more tastings without worrying about driving. We felt tasted out in truth after yesterday and so stopped only twice. Firstly, at La Brie, a small boutique winery. This was one of the original nine farms granted to the Huguenots in the 1650s and the wine maker was a lady. The wines were lovely; soft and elegant and it was really interesting to witness a small production farm as opposed to a huge multimillion rand operation.
We rejoined the tram and were instantly caught up with a wedding party who were in high spirits and likely to be higher before the day was over I suspect! The bride was Australian and the groom South African and we were seriously impressed that they were all up for the wine tram today. They were great fun and had had a marvellous wedding at one of the wineries yesterday. This is extremely popular and a lot less costly than England, Australia and the USA apparently.
Our second port of call was at Dieu Donne, a winery set high above the valley and the highest altitude for growing vines in the area. We were booked at their renowned restaurant Roca for lunch. We were shown to our table on a wide shady terrace with commanding views over the surrounding countryside. It was stunning. The wind has dropped a little today and the temperature has risen accordingly. It was 41 degrees in the shade, exceptional even for here apparently. Lunch was very good, accompanied by even more of the grape! I hardened my heart and had the Springbok. Well, you have to try the local specialities. It was delicious. I had hovered over ostrich, but kept seeing those long eyelashes and couldn't do it. I'm determined to try it before we leave, when I can pluck up the courage! Yet another wine tasting followed and a couple of cracking wines emerged. By then, we had had enough and decamped back to Mont Rochelle to chill out and enjoy the facilities. I think we have earned a break. All this wine tasting is mentally and physically exhausting! Peter thinks he is in danger of getting repetitive wine glass lifting strain injury!!Les mer
The Wine Tour
9. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ 20 °C
Franschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa
Saturday, January 9, 2016
I'm not quite sure where to begin today. It's been such a full day my mind is in something of a whirl. We have had the company of a wine expert by the name of Pietman Retief. An engaging, generous and knowledgeable personality, he has lived all his life in and around Stellenbosch and spent his working years in the wine industry. We have touched every possible aspect of life in South Africa, as well as wine and it has been fascinating.
We began high above Franschoek looking down on the valley settled in the mid 1600s by his French Hugenot ancestors, some nine generations ago, when wild animals roamed the area and life was far tougher than it is now. Dutch settlers were already here and initially nine French families were granted land to make their own. Their farms were unsurprisingly named after their home areas ie Champagne, Versailles, Grand Provence etc. Dutch farms were interestingly named more for the families experiences and emotions ie Great Expectations, Hard Journey etc etc. The land was granted by the then Dutch governor, with the purpose of farmers producing food, to be supplied to the many visiting ships on their way to the East from Europe. Viewed from on high it is a beautiful valley surrounded by the Franschoek mountains in which at least two pairs of leopards still roam.
Descending to the valley floor we viewed the elegant, marble, Hugenot monument in Franschoek whilst the history discussion continued. Having ascertained that we were interested in art and gardens, and politics, Pietman endeavoured to include lots of interesting asides as well as the study of the grape!
We started at Haute Cabriere one of the best makers of South African bubbly. The brand name is Pierre Jourdan and the Belle Rose pink champagne was particularly fine. Grand Provence was next on our list, where the art work, in particular the sculpture, rivalled the bottle. There were lovely gardens set out with sculpture and ceramics, plus two stunning galleries. This was followed by Ricketty Bridge, more for the tremendous amount of restoration the current owners have put into the farm. I should add that these establishments are usually graced by the most superb thatched Cape Dutch Manor Houses, of the type you instantly think of in relation to the winelands of South Africa. La Motte was another huge property with the most fantastic artworks and the red wines were stupendous.
We gradually made our way towards Stellenbosch and had lunch at the University Botanic Gardens, which were another find. On the way is a vintage motor car museum. Johannes Rupert of La Motte fame has over 350 vintage cars as an added interest and I can think of several friends who would be keen to stop here. Stellenbosch itself is the second oldest settlement in the cape and our guide was justifiably proud of his picturesque home town. It has retained most of its original buildings and even the village green. On the way out of town back towards Franschoek Pietman drove us through the Ida Valley to visit the Rustenberg winery, which he thought we would like to see, for the proprietor's wife's English garden as much as the farm. The garden was a revelation, with so many plants thronging the herbaceous borders, both English and South African natives. All around the area you will find oaks, not as strong or as large as their English cousins, due to the climate, but impressive never the less. Twelve thousand saplings were planted in these valleys in the 18th century, many of which are still growing. The Graf estate was next on the list and as Aly remarked to me, this is pure theatre. Over 30million pounds of Graf diamond money has been lavished on restoring this run down farm. What you see now is quite incredible, for its taste, scale and beauty and that's without the wine! Again, the artworks are out of this world and we were quite spellbound. Tokara was our last winery and once more the art was fantastic. The wine production section was state of the art and you might be interested to know that they have an annual competition for local artists to create a painting, simply using the contents of a bottle of red wine, The results had to be seen to be believed.
Approaching Franschoek, we turned off the main road for a final time and tucked in the middle of the countryside is a small prison called Drakenstein. This was where Nelson Mandella was held for the final 18months of his imprisonment. It was from these gates that he made the last 100 yds of his long walk to freedom, greeted by thousands and watched by people on TV all over the world. It is one of the iconic images in time and I suspect we can all remember where we were when we saw it.
What a day.
There are some 80 wineries around Franschoek and approaching 200 in the Stellenbosch area. Millions of pounds have been poured into this area over the last 20 years, mainly by outside investors and this is continuing. The likes of Richard Branson and an Indian Multimillionaire called Singh are the new kids on the block. The investment is huge. One can only hope it will not be overdone.
Our day finished back at La Motte, where we managed to have another shot at their wines accompanied by dinner. It was a tasting menu accompanied by the appropriate wines and it seemed a fitting end to a fabulous day.Les mer
Franschoek
8. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Friday, January 8, 2016
Today has been relatively quiet and a travelling day, so we finally took our little Hyundai out for a spin. We were sad to say goodbye to More Quarters who had made us so comfortable, but the onward journey to Franschoek more than made up for it. It takes about one and a half hours to make the drive at a gentle pace and once you turn off the N2 it is a very pretty run. The Franschoek mountains gradually loom into view and the surroundings become more undulating and the odd vine appears. Once through Stellenbosch, an attractive university town, you turn right heading up and over the Helshoogte Pass. The scenery is dramatic with marvellous views down into the valleys and wineries start to pop up all over the place. In some respects we were reminded of Marlborough in New Zealand, but the landscape is more rugged and extreme.
We arrived in the charming town of Franschoek just before 1o'clk, in time to wander down its Main Street lined with small boutique type shops and traditional Cape Dutch buildings. This is the sort of settlement that you think of when contemplating the winelands of South Africa.
In Afrikaans the word Franschoek means 'French Corner' and as the name suggests was once a French enclave, when over 300 years ago a group of Huguenot settlers arrived fleeing religious persecution. It is this influence combined with the larger Dutch speaking community that has given the area such colour and unsurprisingly a taste for fine wine and food.
It is a bright and sunny day, but continues to be blustery with the Cape Doctor blowing. After an excellent lunch at an artisan bakery we drove out of town to find our hotel for the night, Mont Rochelle. Now this establishment came highly recommended via Richard and Alyson, so we expected it to be good, but oh boy is it ever! I think we'll have a job to top this. Set on a hill just out of the town with beautiful mountain views sits the white painted thatched former estate house. On first view it appears modest, but on entering its portals the impression quickly fades. It is all gloriously put together and following registration, which is undertaken on the verandah to the accompaniment of a glass of champagne, we were shown to the Vineyard wing. It was an OMG moment to be honest, to match Palazzo Avino in Ravello. These are rooms with a view. A huge lounge in modern style, an equally spectacular bedroom and a bathroom the size of our kitchen with an oval bath. Be still my beating heart - blow the wine tasting, I could sit in that bath sipping something interesting from the fridge (all complimentary) and gazing out of the glass walls overlooking the private garden with plunge pool and the mountains. I took advantage of the gym this afternoon and we ate at Miko, the flagship restaurant this evening. All excellent apart from the fact that the red wine was too cold. The Maitre D tried to say that they keep all the Reds at the temp needed for the Pinot Noir, which is slightly cooler. Try taking a few bottles out late afternoon then - go on be honest, am I getting too picky?!
Incidentally, the champagne offered is produced locally and was served at Nelson Mandela's inauguration as President. It was subsequently served at Barack Obama's also, because he was so impressed with it. I could see why.
Wine Tasting tomorrow leaving at 9.30am. Help! I suspect we will need a bit more breakfast than muesli on this occasion.
TTFN.Les mer
The Cape of Good Hope
7. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Thursday, January 7, 2016
Unbelievably, this is our final day in CapeTown. It is without doubt a magnificent city, with an enviable lifestyle and climate. We have loved it and would return in the blink of an eye.
The Cape Doctor set in last night. This is a strong, dry, south easterly wind that blows through the city, removing any pollution and humidity to the ocean. Boy does it gust and rattle the hinges, but it is warm, which is a blessing.
It has been a long, but great day. We set off to drive the Atlantic coast via Camps Bay, Hout Bay and Chapman's Peak to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. It is a spectacular drive hugging the shoreline most of the way. The mountains descend almost to the ocean and the vistas of coastline and blue green ocean are spellbinding. The further south one drives, the more rugged the scenery. Outcrops of rock and a multi coloured tapestry of fynbos dominate the landscape. The fynbos vegetation is perfectly adapted to the environment and subtle, but taken as a whole quite beautiful. One enters another section of the Table Mountain National Park approaching the end of the Cape Peninsula. There are two major sites to visit, Cape Point and The Cape of Good Hope itself. Here is the most south westerly point of the continent of Africa and the popularly perceived meeting of two major oceans, the Indian and Atlantic. This is in fact not the case, as here meet two contrasting currents, the cold West Coast Benguela current and the warm East Coast Angulhas current. The actual geographical meeting point of the oceans is in fact further up the coast at Cape Angulhas. The Cape of Good Hope is surprisingly low key, a fantastic shoreline and promontory, but little else. Cape Point is the more lauded of the two, as there is a lighthouse you can climb up to on the 200 ft cliffs looking out over the wild ocean. You take a funicular railway to the base of the lighthouse and climb from there. There were signs warning one to beware of the baboons, but we didn't see any until driving away and there sat one by the side of the road like a little old man hoping for a lift! What we did see however, were a pair of fabulous albatross, riding the winds and skimming just above the waves in effortless style. What a treat.
The homeward drive up the east coast of the peninsula, took us to Simonstown, named for an early Dutch governor Simon van der Stel who was determined to leave his mark, naming Constantia for his daughter and Stellenbosch again for himself. Clearly a man with a large ego!
Simonstown has a distinct English feel and retains some unique old buildings. It has been and is a large naval base for the Royal Navy and since 1957 the South African Navy. On the harbour is the statue of a Gt Dane called 'Able Seaman Just Nuisance'. The only dog to have been enlisted by the Royal Navy, as a moral booster during the Second World War. He adopted the Naval Shore establishment and its sailors, riding the local train to Cape Town and accompanying the drunken sailors back to base. When the rail company threatened to have him put down if his fare wasn't paid, the Navy enlisted him, hence entitling him to free rail travel!
Just up the coast is Boulder's Beach, a stunningly beautiful white sand beach full of.....well huge boulders! Here is a 2000 strong African (jackass) Penguin colony. This was established by two breeding pairs in 1982 and has grown ever since. There is a board walk to follow, which allows one to view the little chaps very closely without disturbing their antics. They were simply charming, full of fun and perfectly turned out for a night on the town! Rafe would have loved them.
We arrived back in Cape Town in the late afternoon having had a superb final day in the Western Cape. It was by necessity a whistle stop tour, but one that will be long remembered.
We dined at another marvellous eatery called 95Keerom this evening. Great setting, food and wine, again for less than £30. What more can I say?Les mer
Table Mountain
6. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Wednesday, January 6, 2016
It was an early start this morning to get to the cable car and up the mountain to beat the crowds. It worked brilliantly. We were in the gondola just before nine and on top of Table Mountain a little after the hour. Yes, us, but boy was it worth it.
Cape Town's iconic landmark was created some 540 million years ago when during an uplifting period these rocks were squeezed upwards between two tectonic plates in the earth's crust. It's north face overlooks the city centre and is flanked by the formations of Lion's Head and Signal Hill to the west and Devil's Peak to the East. A series of gable like mountains known as the Twelve Apostles march away to the south. You can walk (if you can call it that!) to the top in about 2hrs and as we rose ever steadily upwards in our gondola we saw several fit, hardy souls on the trail. The whole area is a National Park and is covered in fynbos clinging to every ledge, nook and cranny. Plants are incredible how they can survive in the most inauspicious circumstances ie tremendous temperature range, high winds and thin, acid, almost non existent soils. Incidentally, fynbos consists of a vast number of low scrubby plants of the Erica or heather family, Restionacaea grasses, and Protea or leucadendron families, bulbs, daisies and pelargoniums. The gondola rotates through 360 degrees on its journey, giving one a fantastic view over the city and the approaching mountain, which is surprisingly heavily jointed and cracked vertically and horizontally when viewed close up. I saw my first wild flowering King Protea on the way up. The Western Cape, a small flora area, has over 2,500 species of plants in comparison to the UKs 1500 or so.
Once on the top the views are as spectacular as you might expect in all directions. The surface is rocky and uneven; the result of wind and water erosion, it is however, a microcosm of plants and animals and simply fascinating to study. To our delight we had hardly taken 20 steps from the cable car when a hyrax darted across our path. They look like outsize fluffy guinea pigs and are known locally as dassies, however, their closest relative is the elephant. They are shy creatures and so we were very lucky to see one. We took a short guided walk, which was very informative and then walked the perimeter of the 'Table Top' which is large. A large flock of tiny sunbirds flitted in and amongst the vegetation feeding on nectar from the flowers. They are clearly used to the public watching and photographing them going about their business, as they were completely unfazed by our presence. The temperature has dropped slightly today to more manageable numbers, which helped us, because there is no natural shade.
We were down at the bottom by midday and took the red tourist bus around Camps Bay and the western beaches before heading back into the city, stopping off at the Waterfront for some lunch at the Food Market. This is an old warehouse filled with a myriad of great local food outlets. We made our selection and sat down by a TV to catch up on the cricket. The change in the weather had brought a little luck for South Africa and England had lost five wickets at this point, so game on, but probably still a draw in the offing. We got chatting to a charming local young couple who live in the Garden District where we are staying. We whiled away an interesting half hour putting the world to rights, before parting and heading back to the bus stop to pick up our blue bus back to More Quarters.
On the way through a really lovely artisan craft warehouse. I spotted an unusual stall that make items from used tea bags, yes you heard me correctly first time! A driftwood Christmas tree was beautifully decorated with charming tea bag decorations. You might know the tree would catch my eye. Underneath was a quote from Eleanor Roosevelt which you will see in the photo section. How true- it made me smile!Les mer
Cape Town in Bloom
5. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Tuesday, January 5, 2016
The oracle here thought that today's cricket would be attritional (and of course he was right), so we decided to attack our list and head for Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens this morning. It has been another scorchingly hot day, with not a cloud in the sky.
The site is huge in acreage, although only a small part is actually laid out as a garden. The land extends right up the eastern slopes of Table Mountain and if you feel so inclined you can climb up Skeleton Ravine and walk to the Table Mountain cable car to descend.
The land was purchased by Cecil Rhodes in 1895 for £9000 to protect the area from urban developers and when he died in 1902, the estate was left to the Nation. In 1913 Kirstenbosch became a botanical garden dedicated to the cultivation and study of the indigenous plants of South Africa. Messrs Pearson and Mathews, a Cambridge botanist and Kew trainee were the first Director and Curator who were responsible for much of the layout and they adhered to the stunning natural setting they were presented with. It is absolutely spectacular, but with a very different feel to the likes of Kew, less manicured, wilder and free as befits the landscape and the country come to that! It was fascinating for me to see all the fabulous exotic species I can use at home at a price, growing in their natural environment. The agapanthus are at their very best as is the indigo bush and the watsonias. Streptocarpus are growing as ground cover under the trees when we struggle to keep them as a houseplant! Too much water is their nemesis, which is probably why most of us kill them with kindness. All sorts of hanging basket annuals romp away here all year in their natural environment. King Proteas are for sale on the side of the roads for pence! I understand the real time to see maximum colour is the 2/3rd week of September, but it was still pretty amazing now.
We took the shuttle tour as we knew there would be no chance of covering it all on foot in such heat. It was undoubtedly the right decision as the guide was a mine of information that we would have never picked up alone. I sat next to him with a bird's eye view. Howard was a real character, with a thick South African accent. When In passing I mentioned how hot it was, he grinned and said he came from the desert of the Little Karoo, where 55 degrees was not unheard of, so whilst it was warm, he wasn't breaking sweat-and he was't! “Have a look in the conservatory if you want a feel of what I am used to” he said. We already had and lasted 5 minutes before having to seek shade outside to cool off, relatively speaking. This was a terrific visit for me particularly and I'll include some photos to give you a feel.
We stepped back in time this afternoon, by having afternoon tea at The Mt Nelson Hotel. We have had afternoon tea in some pretty wonderful venues, so they had something to live up to! The building and decor is lovely, albeit very traditional and old school. We sat on the classic colonial verandah, complete with potted ferns, by the open door overlooking beautiful gardens. The tea was lovely, with a true South African flavour that you would hope for and expect. Two points they need to note however, from the home of the afternoon tea, never make tea in front of the guest with off the boil water and sweetened whipped cream doesn't cut the mustard on the scones. I spared the management my thoughts and we had a relaxing delightful high tea and certainly will not want anything more today, except perhaps a nice G&T later on and on that note I think I will go and mix one. Cheers!Les mer
Robbyn Island and the Waterfront
4. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Monday, January 4, 2016
Today we have taken a break from Newlands and visited Robbyn Island the site of Nelson Mandela's incarceration for 27 years. The ferry leaves from the Waterfront, which was once the Victorian docks for the city of Cape Town. In common with many such sites around the world, the area has been renovated and rejuvenated into a modern conglomeration of flats, offices, shops and restaurants. Situated on the harbour, it is an attractive addition and draws many visitors.
Luckily for us it was another sweltering day and the wind minimal, so the crossing was calm. It takes about 40 minutes. There were seals, penguins, sea birds and best of all, whales feeding in the harbour. Don't ask me to name the type, as one blow hole and tail flip looks very much like another, but it was an unexpected thrill to see them. As you approach the island it looks bleak and windswept, which is not far from the truth, although there are more buildings and trees than you might expect. Originally the only vegetation was fynbos, the low scrubby plants indigenous to South Africa, until the British introduced trees from Australia in the 1890s. It was not a good move , as the eucalyptus was one and they have proliferated. Each tree drinks 300litres of fresh water a day, with the result that there is no longer any fresh water to be found on the Island and it all has to be brought from the mainland. Robbyn Island is small, just 5 miles by 3 and has been used for holding political prisoners of one type and another since the days of the Dutch in 1662. It has also housed a leprosy and smallpox isolation camp over the years and there is a very poignant cemetery.
The tour is well managed, and in two stages. Firstly, you are driven around the island by bus with a guide pointing out the main features and delving into it's history and geography. We were lucky enough to be allocated two superb guides, Yaseem for the bus commentary and Suzu for the prison itself. I should point out that all the guides have at some time been prisoners here themselves and so their narrative is very personal and from the heart. The prison block is as you would imagine on the outside, plain and unadorned, but it doesn't prepare you for the sheer bleakness of the interior. Grey concrete as far as the eye can see, with bars instead of windows. There was no glass, therefore it could be stiflingly hot or extremely cold, particularly at night. There was no heating, only cold water to wash in, a slopping out system that had to be seen to be believed and no books, letters or visits. The leading political prisoners were held in tiny single cells, with no creature comforts. There is just a stool, a metal dish and cup, the slopp bucket and a hessian rug to sleep on - no blankets. The days were spent in the lime quarry, which we saw and was blinding in the sun. No dark glasses were allowed and men often suffered with the equivalent of snow blindness. At the end of the day they would have to attempt to wash off the lime sticking to their skin with cold water, whatever the time of year. Nelson Mandela worked in that quarry for 13 years. Both guides stressed that he was an exceptional human being, a natural leader of men and started to compile 'The Long Walk to Freedom' in the exercise courtyard in the corner known as Nelson Mandela's garden. This was in the 70s when international pressure had ensured that conditions were improved, educational materials allowed, letters and visits. Hot showers were also then installed and flush toilets.
It is hard to believe that men were tortured and treated so harshly in our lifetime for their political beliefs. It was an absolutely inspirational visit. Nelson Mandela's mantra on his eventual release in 1991 was that the peoples of South Africa must sit around a table and discuss the way forward for all its citizens. There must be hope, tolerance, forgiveness and reconciliation and our guides put over that sentiment with conviction.
I would not say this is a visit of joy, but it is of necessity and we felt privileged and grateful to have experienced it through the eyes of men who had first hand knowledge of the regime. The thought of Robbyn Island will forever put shivers up my spine.Les mer
NewlandsAgain
3. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
I know I said I would have nothing to say, but I can't not comment on the fabulous days cricket we watched today. It is still scorchingly hot, but we managed to switch seats to two in the shade, which enabled us to stay outside all day. This is really for the cricket aficionados - what a day!
Ben Stokes and Jonny Bairstow set off like rockets from the get go and piled on over 300 runs in half a day. As you will know from the scorecard Stokes scored 258, the fastest double hundred by an Englishman and the 2nd fastest double hundred of all time. Bairstow hit 150 and their 6th wicket partnership of 399 was a world record. They were scintillating and I don't suppose we will ever see the like again. How lucky were we?
This evening we ate at Paranga in Camps Bay watching a spectacular sunset over the sea. Warm and balmy it was the perfect end to a once in a lifetime day.Les mer
Cape Town Beginnings
2. januar 2016, Sør-Afrika ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Saturday, January 2, 2016
Well readers, here we are in Africa, after an uneventful flight from the UK. It feels different the minute you step off the plane. I can't explain why, but you get the sense of a steaming melting pot just over the hill. However, we started off with a slight brouhaha, in that as I passed through the body scanner at Heathrow, it went bananas. Thankfully, all was relatively quiet, it being New Year's Eve and most people having somewhere else to be. It took me a minute to realise that the dreaded knee brace was the culprit! Following the full body search of me and said brace, in a locked room with a witness, all was fine - interesting start!!
I think every other person on the plane was a 'blood & custard' type and for the uninitiated amongst you, this is the slang term for MCC members, due to the virulent tie that is a required item of apparel. Peter's was duly packed and is on display today. We have bumped into most of our fellow passengers here at Newlands of course!
The drive from the airport passes a very large township which immediately brings home the journey that this young country has yet to make. Our driver informed us that the government is building a huge amount of new starter homes a year, ownership of which are offered for a very small price, but the occupants have to remain residents for 10 years before they can sell.
It is a start, but my goodness it will take a while.
We are staying in the garden district of Capetown in a very smart apartment attached to The Cape Cadogan Hotel. The staff couldn't be more helpful, even to point of running us to and from the Test Match today, which was unexpected. The hotel is in the foothills of Table Mountain, which towers above us as we walk down the street. At night it is floodlit and appears like a ghostly apparition above you. Magnificent sight would be an understatement, with or without its cloud tablecloth. Great restaurants abound. We visited one called Societi Bistro last night, which was jammed. We had a superb meal, including a bottle of very good local wine for less than £30 for the two of us!
Today, as you will have gathered we are at the Cricket. Peter bought tickets through the MCC, so we have seats in the Pavilion. They are very good, directly on the walkway where the England team come out. They look so young, no more than babes some of them. I could have tucked a couple under my arm and put them down for a nap. It is absolutely sizzling, 29 degrees C and we are in full sun, so its half an hour in our seats and half an hour in the pavillion itself. As the afternoon heat built to some astronomical temperature we have managed to find a couple of seats inside (air conditioned) and are watching through the plate glass windows. The match is tight. Not a lot in the wicket for the bowlers and it must surely be hard and hot work for the South Africans in the field today. They need to be young and fit, that's for sure. Hence, I am tapping away to you all from Newlands itself. It is a beautiful ground, green and verdant with Table Mountain as a backdrop. There surely can't be a finer ground anywhere in the world. It is situated just out of the city in Claremont, which incidentally is where my Gt Uncle lived - no wonder he loved it so. As we found in Australia, everyone here is very friendly and keen to chat. I guess it is the sporting brotherhood. A great yell goes up and Joe Root is out for 50. He comes striding up the stairs past me, muttering to himself in disgust and the colour of a Belisha beacon. 'Poor boy' says I, 'rubbish' shot back Peter 'he should be disgusted, it's a flat wicket and it was a soft dismissal!' I think I'll just pop round and see whether he would like a cup of tea and a motherly hug in his iced bath! In truth, he would probably prefer that from some lissom young thing 40 years younger!!
And so here endeth the first South African epistle. Tomorrow is planned to be more of the same, so we'll speak again when I have something different to tell you. Think of us in the clear blue skies and sizzling temperatures of a South African summer. It's tough, I can tell you!Les mer
South Africa Bound
31. desember 2015, England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
This is our second long awaited trip, following the NZ/Oz sojourn and in common with the latter there will no doubt be a hint of the Grape Escape involved! We leave the UK to spend New Year's Eve in the air en route to Cape Town and the Test Match starting on the 2nd. That's a shock for you all I'm sure. If the MCC had got wind of our intentions I'm sure they would have cancelled the tour, after our wonderful record of encouragement for the last Ashes tour!
The next month will be spent winding our way through the beauty spots of this fabulous country, which I will endeavour to give you a flavour of through my diary notes. My fascination with South Africa began with my Great Uncle Rob, who wrote our family equivalent of Alistair Cooke's 'Letter from America', only make that South Africa. He and his family settled and lived in Cape Town from the beginning of the Second World War having been moved from Egypt where he worked for a major oil company. He had a fabulous turn of phrase and his letters were eagerly awaited by my teenage self. To have the opportunity to visit some of the places he so beautifully described is very special, so watch this space.
We return home on the 2nd February, always providing we are not eaten by anything major. Keep your fingers crossed for us!Les mer
Finale
18. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
Why is it that holidays pass at the speed of light ? Something to do with the enjoyment factor I suspect, but all too quickly we woke up on our final day and the journey home had to be contemplated.
We decided to treat ourselves for our final evening by dining at Rossellini's, the Michelin starred restaurant at Palazzo Avino. It was to be our personal Ruby Wedding Dinner for the two of us and it was certainly special. There are two options here, you can dine inside or outside on the terrace. As it was a lovely evening we chose the latter and the view to die for, plus the sunset. I'm not sure which was the more memorable the setting or the food. I guess the chef would require me to say the food and I could not deny him that honour, because he and his staff certainly deserved the accolade.
Ravello and Palazzo Avino are places that are certain to hold in life's memory bank and I thank the hand of fate that pushed us in their direction. We spent the final day visiting the gardens of Villa Rufolo, (which whilst good were not a patch on Villa Cimbrione), indulging in a little light shopping and having lunch at our favourite garden cafe. Before we could blink, it was time to depart for Napoli airport and the homeward journey. Dinner on this occasion consisted of a packet of breadsticks that happened to be abandoned on the floor of the car - unopened I hasten to add. How the mighty are fallen, but then we could scarcely complain, following the 10 days it had been our privilege to experience. Until the next time!Les mer
Amalfi
15. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Amalfi is a small port about 5 miles virtually vertically downwards from Ravello and was the settlement that put this coast on the map so to speak. It was certainly around in the time of Tiberius and hit its's wealthy peak C11 -C13th. Seagoing merchant ships brought all sorts of spices and fascinating cargo from the East and the small town flourished, several of it's more wealthy merchant families founding Ravello towards the end of this period.
We caught the local bus and so had a good opportunity to look at the heavily terraced land that swoops down to the sea. Every inch is carefully cultivated for agriculture. There are lots of market garden crops, vines and above all lemons. The Amalfi Coast is famous for the production of a large oval lemon that proved vital to the seamen of old in the prevention of scurvy. The lemon ice cream and sorbet is to be recommended, plus the limoncello that is made in abundance.
Amalfi is tiny and clings to the steep hillside seemingly like a limpet. The buildings are multicoloured and it was heaving with cars, bikes, dogs, cats and humanity when we arrived. On the seafront there is a small roundabout that was choked with every kind of vehicle you could imagine. People shouted, horns blared, arms were waved and in the middle of it all stood a very well turned out policeman watching it all pass him by! You knew you were in Italy. The narrow Main Street climbs steeply up from the sea and there are no shortage of temptations in the many shops and restaurants with their wares spilling out on to the pavement. There were two main attractions we found (apart from the gelato that is!), the magnificent Duomo and the paper shop and I don't mean for the purchase of The Times or its Italian equivalent.
The Duomo is approached up a long flight of steep steps and is two for the price of one in reality. There is a very old simple plain basilica, which is now used as a museum and showcase for the many beautiful artefacts in the churches possession. You then descend down to the crypt, the like of which I have never seen in my life. There is not a square inch that is not decorated. The walls and floor with many coloured marbles, all inlaid and worked into intricate patterns and the ceiling painted. You then ascend to the 'new' Gothic Cathedral which is more of the same. In truth, a bit much for me, but you cannot help but admire the artistry involved in it's creation.
The older parts have clear Byzantine and Moorish influences and the portico reminded me strongly of The Mesquita in Córdoba. I will include some pictures to give you a flavour. Peter says he's Duomo'd out and I may struggle to drag him to another in the near future, but you have to 'gather ye rosebuds while ye may!'.
The valley behind The Amalfi mountains has been renowned for hand made paper making from medieval times and this is a skill that is still perpetuated today. The idea came from the East centuries ago and we wandered around a fascinating museum and shop displaying all sorts of wares connected with paper. Some of the paper was so fine, you would be frightened to show it a ball point pen, let alone mess up a note! The thought of screwing it up and starting again would be out of the question. Eventually we found our way back to the bus and ascended to the relative calm of Ravello, a jewell in anyone's crown.Les mer
Pompeii
14. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Today has been all about once more taking a step backwards into Ancient Roman Culture. Having previously visited Hadrian's Imperial Villa at Tivoili, we did have an idea what to expect and of course Pompeii is well known the world over, as the city that perished in the Vesuvius eruption of AD 79, but the sheer scale of it is overwhelming. We did not manage to visit it all or Herculaneum, it's smaller cousin similarly destroyed the other side of the volcano. One of us did feel that wandering about more ruins in the heat, this time with the world and his wife for company could only be stomached in two hour bursts!! For those of you who have not been able to visit, it is absolutely fascinating. The work that has been accomplished over the years is tremendous, but it is still a gigantic archaeological excavation to be honest. Pompeii and the majority of its occupants were buried over a two day period in a 6 mtr layer of red hot ash, pumice and cinder, spewed out by the volcano in a series of enormous eruptions, beginning first thing one morning, accompanied by earthquakes and lightening. The poor inhabitants must have justifiably thought the end of the world was nigh and most, understandably, attempted to take shelter in their homes, not realising that what they really needed to do was flee whilst they had the chance. The sky turned black and the terrified inhabitants huddled in their houses waiting for the eruption to pass and hoping to survive the debris field raining down on them. What we of course know today, is that there was worse to come. The enormous mushroom cloud that rose some 20,000 ft into the sky eventually fell back to earth and scorched down the sides of Vesuvius at speeds of 65mph. Known as a pyroclastic flow, it incinerated everything in its path, both animal and human. It was this that destroyed Herculaneum, which up to now had avoided the majority of the searingly hot debris and it was then buried by a thick layer of scalding mud. Anyone who had survived in either town so far, stood not a chance. The site was abandoned for many years following the disaster and it was not until Hadrian's reign that an attempt was begun to recover the position. Clearly, archaeologists have discovered a vast amount about the lives of Roman citizens from Pompeii, as here, unlike other places, life stopped dead on that fateful morning, with the detritus of everyday life in place. What does seem haunting is that Pompeii's remains are surrounded by modern day Napoili. The juxtaposition between the fate of these ancient Romans and the Napolese going about their everyday business is poignant to say the least.
We returned to Palazzo Avino for a late lunch pleased to have had the chance to experience Pompeii firsthand, but somewhat chastened. Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed my pear, Gorgonzola, rocket and walnut salad, with honey dressing, it was in my mind that all those centuries ago the townspeople of Pompeii did not get beyond breakfast.Les mer
Villa Cimbrione
13. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
Today we wandered along through Ravello's narrow streets, stopping regularly to gaze at the spectacular views eventually reaching the Villa Cimbrione. This is an old estate perched on the cliff top that was rescued from dereliction in the early 1900s by Lord Grimthorpe from Yorkshire. He came to this part of Italy in an attempt to recover from a serious depression following the early death of his wife, and fell in love with Ravello. As a consequence he purchased and restored Villa Cimbrione, creating a fabulous garden, heavily influenced by English designers such as Peto, Lutyens and Jekyll. Lord Grimthorpe was involved with the Bloomsbury Group, many of whom came here to stay and Vita Sackville-West organised much of the planting. It is a glorious garden, with amazing sea views throughout. I am sure it would be only too easy to recover from anything here. Lord Grimthorpe loved it so much, he left instructions that his ashes be interred at the base of a small temple overlooking the sea and Amalfi. I can think of worse places to rest in peace!Les mer
Ravello
12. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 24 °C
Yesterday, we moved on alone for the second section of our trip. We travelled by car from Frascati to Ravello on the Amalfi Coast. It is a 3 hour drive, mainly on the A1 which is the motorway running from Milano down to the Sicily ferry. The scenery gradually changes, becoming flatter, as one moves further south. We passed Monte Casino, immediately recognisable perched on its craggy hilltop. Basking gently in the sun, one could only imagine the vicious battle that raged here some 70 years ago. Just past this point we turned off the motorway and tracked through the outskirts of Napoli, which is as manic as you would think. Mountains reared up ahead of us and it gradually dawned that we would have to climb up and over them to reach our destination. Our young driver, with typical Italian flair, handled it all with impressive sang froid, meeting large vehicles and reversing back down steep gradients where necessary. As we climbed, the views became ever more stunning. We stopped at the top of the pass to look out over Napoli, the sea and of course Mt Vesuvius. It was quite a sight laid out at our feet. Continuing on our way we now descended the other side . Views of the Mediterranean came into view and we gradually approached our destination, Ravello, a small town perched high above the Azure blue sea. We are staying at the Palazzo Avino which is as gorgeous as we had hoped, with more spectacular views from every part of the hotel out over the mountainous coastline and the sea. It is undoubtedly the spot to relax after a busy week and we have spent today exploring Ravello on foot. It has an atmosphere all of its own and is pretty special to be honest. There is a Duomo of course, with a pair of carved marble Urns from the 2nd century AD. Peter remarked that he didn't think he had ever touched anything that old and yes, incredibly you could do just that! There was a pulpit and Amphora from the C7th, with clear Byzantine influences. It is a simple but very beautiful cathedral rather like the little village itself.Les mer
Giardini della Landriana
11. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 21 °C
Amazingly, today is our final garden day and as a contrast to gardens of the past, we drove out to visit Giardini della Landriana which occupies 25 acres and was bought by the Taverna family as bare land surrounding the house in 1954, with no garden what so ever. Lavinia Taverna has been the driving force in creating the beautiful garden you now see, together with input from the English Landscape Architect Russell Page. It is a clever mix of Italian formality and exuberant English planting style, with plants from all over the world living harmoniously side by side to glorious effect. A man made lake was dug out which Russell Page advised should not be too large and apparently every time he came to visit, it seemed to be larger! Lavinia clearly knew her own mind and whilst she was willing to listen to his advice, it was not followed slavishly, if her gut instinct told her otherwise. Formal and informal rooms open and close as you wander through the garden and the combinations of plants are inspiring. It is of course much easier to create a series of strong gardens within a garden when you have the space to play with. A recurring theme is the restriction of the species planted together in any one space, which adds to the rhythm of the garden. There is a long walk of olives trees under planted with pink shrub roses and edged with a pretty variegated hebe. Standing tall and spaced out at the back of the border are statuesque hydrangeas and clothing the wall behind a glorious wisteria . On the other side of the wide pathway is a clipped grey foliage hedge. It is a sight to behold, even though the roses were not quite at their best. Another week of this weather will see a cloud of pink blooms nestling under the grey/ green olive. The old fashioned Rose garden runs gently down the valley and was at its fragrant and stunning best and so cleverly under planted with undemanding, but attractive ground cover. The lake is ringed with flowering yellow flag iris and gradually the new leaves of the lotus are emerging from the water and will eventually completely cover the surface. It was beautiful today. A long white planted double border walk runs back up the garden from the lake, punctuated with the tall dark green cypress for strength and stability, which is so effective. There is a a moorish influenced water lily pond formally edged with liriope and terracotta pots of clipped box and yew. One of the cleverest rooms was pure Russell Page with a nod to Lavinia. A hedged room planted with Orange trees and under planted with a mix of red leaved, lime, apricot and lilac and purple flowers. There were two small ponds full of croaking toads and it was glorious to behold. I should mention that all is peaceful apart from the birdsong. We were accompanied by a cuckoo all around the garden, a bird we rarely hear now in England and the tap, tap tap of a woodpecker. This was a so different yet again to anything we have seen this week and a miracle of clever ideas and a testament to how quickly a garden will establish in such conditions. A lovely Mediterranean salad lunch was taken outside and we took our leave with some regret.
Our final afternoon was spent in Frascati at the Aldo Brandini villa and garden and here once more (if it that was possible ) was something else completely different. The words 'a gentle faded splendour' come to mind. Its situation high above the town of Frascati is fabulous, looking right out over the town and Roman plain with The Vatican and St Peter's dome on the horizon. The estate is still in the Aldo Brandini family and one can visit the grounds under one's own steam. It is quite a climb to the several different levels and there is a great deal of work to be done both to the planting and the structure, but this was obviously a tour de force in it's day. Facing the villa is what has been described as a water theatre and there is a balcony at the top of the house where the family and their guests would assemble to watch the show. A cascade runs down the slope between two pagodas and over the edge to drop in a curtain to the pool below. In an amphitheatre underneath are giant tableaux of the gods with their own fountains and centrally placed is Atlas with the world on his shoulders. This giant globe revolved due to careful application of the force of the water. A faded refection of it's former glory, this was in some ways quite sad to see, but perhaps a fitting reminder of how quickly man's achievements can fade into obscurity at the flick of a hand and the turning off of a historic switch of one type or another.
At this point there was only one thing to do - that's right find the nearest gelatoria! The final dinner at Villa Grazzioli was memorable, again for the sumptuousness of our splendid faded surroundings and the amusing attention of the ever present Claudio, who gives meaning to the phrase 'the charming Italian!' He was sorely tried this weekend I suspect, having being charged with keeping happy a tricky group of English guests who were irritated at being supplanted elsewhere, 55 toga loving swedes and to add insult to injury an family of Chinese who appeared to order the entire A la Carte menu and insist on photographing the arrival of every dish with great enthusiasm. It made for fascinating entertainment.
We have had a wonderful week, in great company and seen gardens that will for ever hold in the mind as some of the most beautiful examples of man's ingenuity in conjunction with the natural world. Thank you Lesley, John, Linda, Pat and Jane for making our Ruby Wedding week everything we could have hoped for.Les mer
Ninfa
10. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 19 °C
Today is our Ruby Wedding Anniversary and we can think of no finer place to be on such an occasion than Ninfa. This is the garden we had been waiting to see more than any other and it certainly did not disappoint.
The land surrounding Ninfa was given to yet another Pope in the 1100s and a small medieval village was built here. It became very wealthy for its time, because of the tax it could generate, in order to use the road that bypassed the swamp land blocking the route South (the Appian Way). The Caetani family purchased the area in the late Middle Ages and it has remained in their hands to the present day. The village was destroyed during one of the many skirmishes that brewed at the time and the family could never afford to rebuild it. Instead, some 100 years ago they decided to create a garden in this perfect microclimate.
It is billed as an English garden and the most romantic garden in the world and I wouldn’t argue with that! . There is no house here to marvel at, just a garden, but what a garden, planted around the ruins of the village of Ninfa. A series of tall slim Italian cypresses mark what was the Main Street and give solid green height and structure to the garden. A small river and a series of streams run through its sheltered site and wherever you look are seemingly unplanned vistas that just delight the eye to such an extent, there is very little talking, because most of us were quite overcome. We arrived at what is arguably the best time of year, as the wisteria, peonies, late spring flowers and of course the roses are in full bloom. I have never seen such roses. They cascade over the ruins with such vigour, a mass of flower and beauty. The perfume that hangs in the air is fabulous, not just from the roses, but also flowering stephanotis, and the orange blossom on the trees. There are many rare plants here to be exclaimed over that have been brought from around the world and are able to survive in the perfect conditions to be found here. Frosts are unheard of, due to the proximity to the sea and the protection from the surrounding mountain range. The soil is very fertile and there is plenty of water and the humidity high. The ideal gardening conditions and plants grow unbelievably quickly - I am so jealous!
We emerged after two and a half hours exalted and yet somewhat subdued, almost as if one had been granted a papal audience. To have the chance to view such perfection is rare and to be savoured.
Speaking of the Pope we moved on to have a picnic lunch and gelato by the shores of Lake Albani. A beautiful spot, but heaving with half of the inhabitants of Rome, or so it seemed and then moved on to have a look at the summer Papal residence at Castel Gandolpho. Sadly, his holiness was apparently tied up with Raoul Castro, trying to effect Cuba's return to the free world. Such a shame he couldn't have put it off until tomorrow to greet us on our special day - but I suppose we cannot be too disappointed as for one thing we're not Catholic and secondly we had had our miracle for the day!
As a postscript the only issue has been the cancellation of our stay at the second hotel the Palazzo Grazioli, which has been a disappointment. We have been accommodated nearby, but not with such style. However, we have taken our meals in fine fashion at the Grazioli, which if anything has made the comparison worse, but tonight certainly proved a treat. On arrival, we had prosecco and canapés in the garden with the rest of the garden gang to celebrate our Anniversary and watched the sunset over Rome from the balcony. We remarked to Claudio, the head waiter, that we were pleased to escape yet another rowdy party at our hotel and he rolled his eyes in true Italian fashion and said they were in the middle of a Toga party in the hotel and the evening could prove interesting and how right he was. It emerged that the participants were 55 Swedish software engineers, of both genders I may add, who came dressed for the part and following dinner congregated in the bar next to room where we were eating and in the salon for a thumping disco. We had to keep making excuses to nip out and view the sights and what sights they were! I can assure you that the toga is not for everyone. On the young and nubile with gladiator sandals and dressed hair a toga is more than acceptable, on the more senior members of the party, perhaps not so. The sight of two guys propped up at the bar with the requisite toga, fake gold laurel leaves on their heads, one with a tee shirt underneath (just in case!) and the other with coconut matting on display was more than I could stand. On glancing downward in an attempt to hide my hysteria, what should I encounter but formal black shoes and toning socks. Hysteria threatened to bubble over and I retreated back to our table in double quick time. It does beg the question, what on earth are 55 Swedish software experts are doing here in Tivoili dressing up as Romans? Don't answer that, I'm sure we can all supply an answer!!Les mer
Villa L'Adriana & Villa D'Este
9. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 21 °C
We have stepped back in time today to a garden of antiquity, with a visit to Villa L'Adriana, which was the vision of the Emperor Hadrian, who was also it's chief architect and designer, on top of running the Roman Empire! The Villa is situated just outside Tivoili, in the hills outside Rome and became his country palace. Construction took close on 20 years and started in 117BC and on its completion resembled a small city, with over 1000 people serving the Emperor when he was in residence. No expense was spared and the latest cutting edge technology of the day was employed, plus selecting the finest coloured marbles, mosaics and frescos for decoration. The terme or spas had underfloor heating and the villa was surrounded by beautiful formal gardens. This is the place where, water was first used as a element of design in the western world and this site became for later generations, a must visit point of inspiration and an essential of the Grand Tour. The villa fell into abandon at the fall of the Roman Empire when it was sacked and looted by the Barbarians. Some 200 years later Pierro Ligorio came here and took away the idea of water to be reworked and improved upon at Vllla d'Este, the garden of which he designed close by. Nowadays, the Villa grounds have returned to nature and are surrounded by a grove of olives interspersed by wild flowers, which were in full bloom. It is a magnificent sight and gives the ruins a quite unique feel, which somehow feels right. There has been a substantial amount of archeology and restoration over the years, but money or the lack of it is a constant problem. Our guide Barbara brought it all to life for us so well and under her careful guidance the villa and Hadrian's world blossomed before our eyes. Here is a garden with a difference. Fascinating and requiring vision as it is viewed today, but not to be missed if you are in the vicinity.
After lunch we travelled into Tivoili itself, to find the famous garden of Cardinal d'Este, who commissioned Pietro Ligorio to design the garden to his newly completed villa in Tivoli. The d'Este's were another powerful family with aspirations to the papacy, which the Cardinal narrowly missed three times. This garden was undoubtedly planned as an entertainment and awe inspiring backdrop to its owners powers of persuasion. It descends through three levels from the villa itself, with the technical artistry increasing in intensity with the descent. The sheer amount of water used here has to be seen to be believed and it was all achieved through gravity, water pressure and hydraulics. There is not a pump in sight. This would be a fantastic achievement now, let alone in the mid C15th when the garden was constructed. As with many of these fabulous gardens, there has been a period of abandonment, and it has been the task of our present age to restore and reclaim for posterity. What is interesting is that modern minds and techniques have been defeated by some features, in particular the owl fountain, which originally featured bronze branches and little birds that would sing, until the appearance of a fearsome owl when the birds would be silenced in fear and all this is achieved through the application of water in the correct manner! There is a 'herbaceous border' of 100 small fountains and sculptures that would initially have displayed terracotta tablets on which Ovid's famous poem Metamorphosis were carved. The dragon fountain that was built overnight to honour a visit of the then Pope to Villa d'Este, no doubt in the hope of improving the Cardinal's chances of being his successor! This fountain propels a jet of water over 100 ft high only to fall back into a dragon infested pool. The dragon was the the family symbol of the visiting Pope, but sadly the gesture failed to produce the required result! One cannot forget the grotto waterfall that Monty Don stood behind in his programme Gardens of the World, or the organ fountain that plays a madrigal at appointed times again purely through the power of water. The finale of the show is a huge waterfall and fountain complex, which is quite remarkable. Originally, the planting in the Garden would have been formal and Italian. In the current version there are more plants and flowers, which add to our enjoyment today but would not have been the intention all those years ago when shade, greenery, texture, symmetry, classical statuary and sheer artistry ruled the day.Les mer
Villa Farnese
8. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 19 °C
This for me was the visit that I knew least about and I think we can safely say Peter had never heard of! As with the day before, we travelled for an hour or so before arriving in the tiny hamlet dominated by the Villa Farnese. Build by the Farnese family in the C16th, initially as a fortress, it was redesigned as a summer Palazzo by one of it's number who hit the heights of power and wealth as Pope Paul 3rd. His grandson Alexander carried on with the redeveloping and the papacy and I think it is fair to say that's the Farnese family were influential all over Europe for some 100 years having married into other similar dynasties. On approach you see an immense square golden building, symmetrical and relatively simple in design. Typically, it is set on the summit of a hill with commanding views over the spectacular countryside, hence controlling all 'traffic' for miles around. I'm not quite sure what we were expecting, but we were stunned on having passed through an exquisitely frescoed entrance/ guard hall to find that this rectangular building was in fact constructed around a circular courtyard. There are 5 storeys, the ground and first floor being the main family and guest living quarters. These two floors are accessed from a colonnaded circular corridor open to the central courtyard and they are totally covered in the most amazing frescos, still in fantastic condition considering their age and the fact that they are open to the elements, albeit sheltered. We passed through a series of fantastic rooms that yet again were painted in the most incredible style, gilded and with every illusory effect known to the world of art. I have seen some beautiful buildings but nothing quite like this for the sheer artistry of the decoration. One can only imagine what the end result looked like when it was finally completed after 15 years, with it's furniture and rugs and tapestries in place. One would have been left in no doubt as to the wealth and power of the Farnese family, which was of course the whole purpose of the exercise.
School is coming to its year end here in Italy and so we had to run the gauntlet of various groups of schoolchildren on school trips. They were largely wildly disinterested and full of fun and chatter. I don't think I ever saw one of them look up at the sensationally painted ceilings that adorn every room. The old adage came to mind 'Education is wasted on the young!'
Finally we emerged into the sunshine and the garden, which was of course to us of particular interest. The garden was designed by the same architect involved at Villa Lante and you can see the similarities. Walls covered in wisteria and banksia lutea roses in full bloom. A vision of lilac and lemon, with a fragrance to knock you out. We progressed through the manicured woodland, full of camellias and azaleas again in full bloom, wild irises of deep purple and white Arum italicum pictum in swathes through the trees. It is silent apart from birdsong and you truly feel you are in an earthly paradise. The idea was to aid contemplation and meditation, helpful of course to a family heavily engaged in the papacy and international diplomacy! The path winds up through the woodland and suddenly out of the trees looms a fountain and rilled slope leading up the a fabulous formal garden and the pleasure palace ((Palazzo Piacere - sounds so much better in Italian!) as it was known. This is some distance away from the main palazzo and perhaps one does not need too much imagination to guess what type of pleasure was involved here. The idea of celibacy and the Catholic Church had not yet come to the fore! Interestingly, Prince Charles stayed here on a visit to Rome and one could imagine he was most appreciative of the setting! Italian formal gardens are all about shade, texture of the greenery, clipped box hedges, statuary and water and by and large colour is absent. Beautiful fountains are surrounded by what appears to be monochrome Persian carpets constructed from pebbles set in concrete or the equivalent of the day, to emulate mosaic. The structure of the garden needs considerable restoration to be seen at its best, but it does not require much imagination to visualise how this estate must have looked in it's heyday. Here, yet again, the owner displays the family wealth and culture so that visitors would have been under no illusion as to the status of their hosts.Les mer
Villa Lante & the Sacred Wood of Bomarzo
7. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 20 °C
We travelled for an hour and a half through exquisite countryside before arriving at Villa Lante around 10 o’clock. Our guide this morning is called Luca and he was able to explain the origins of the garden and its structure. It was built in the 1500s by two of the bishops of Viterbo, Cardinals Gambini and Montalcino, in the days when being a high ranking man of God was often purchased by a noble family for a son and the display of wealth and power was an essential part of the job. Keeping power within the family was all and creating a fabulous garden was very much the latest fashion and an essential for entertaining. Everything is symmetry, order and classically green, with little colour, not necessarily wanted in a climate of such heat. Water and cool contemplative areas were the object here and spectacularly achieved both for the cardinals enjoyment and their guests over the years. The inclusion of water into a garden of the High Renaissance period, said it all, the mechanics being extremely expensive to build and maintain.
Here is a family of power and wealth and it is on display for all to see. Keeping up with the Jones’ has always been a factor in society it seems, even for men of the church!
There are two reception orangeries lavishly decorated in fabulous trompe l'oeil scenes. The illusion they create has to be seen to be believed. The house is not open normally, because the government is struggling to maintain these immense properties and cannot afford to pay the custodians that would be necessary. Pictures on display show an interior as spectacular as their loggias. The garden rises in man made terraces from the house, with beautiful natural greenery and a great deal of clipped box and yew partares, plus the myriad of fountains, pools and rills built to compliment it. The garden is incredible now, let alone in the C15th when it was constructed. The whole estate is surrounded by hectares of woodland. This was a summer retreat for the cardinals and a hunting lodge par excellence!
We moved on to the Sacred Wood of Bomarzo, constructed in the C16th by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini as a memorial to his wife after her death. He either shared a fantastic sense of humour with his Guila or they had a very strange relationship indeed! I suggested to Peter that he might like to consider such a scheme for me in South Wootton. His response was - 'when would you like me to start?' Seriously, the wild natural 'sacred grove' was all the rage at the time and is populated by dozens of huge sculptures of truly gigantic scale, carved from the local stone. They are both fanciful and terrible and it is a fabulous woodland walk with a difference. The garden fell into disrepair for 300 years before being rediscovered and lovingly restored by a local art lover in 1953.
It has certainly been a day of two halves. You could not have envisaged two more contrasting gardens and the day was concluded with a gorgeous long late lunch at the sort of local restaurant you dream of. Mama does all the cooking, the pasta is freshly made daily and the vegetables grown by Papa. We sat outside under an awning, the sun shone and life was good.Les mer
Orvieto
6. mai 2015, Italia ⋅ 22 °C
We arrived here in Orivieto mid afternoon, after an early start from Heathrow this morning. The Hotel Piccolomini is typically Italian and very comfortable. We are here for three nights to see the gardens North of Rome. The town is on the border of the Lazio and Umbria regions where Medieval hill top towns abound, of which Orivieto is one. The historic town is built on the cliff top and accessed by lifts set into the rock face from the car parks below. We are on the third floor of the hotel and the view out of the window is again typical of the higgledy piggedly skyline so prevalent in this part of the world. This evening's sunset from the ramparts was glorious with swifts cavorting about the skies calling as they go. Now, all is quiet and still and it is almost as if you have stepped back 500 years.Les mer
The Green Green Grass of Home
8. februar 2014, England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C
Norfolk, United Kingdom
Saturday, February 8, 2014
Two weeks have passed since we arrived back and Greenhurst welcomed us home. Our last day in Hong Kong did not quite go to plan, as I pulled my back re packing a suitcase and ended up flat on my back for the day, resting and icing it alternately! Oh well, I guess I should be glad it happened right at the end rather than in the middle of a moving phase of the trip. A very efficient Chinese doctor, by the name of Dr Sunny Lau called and prescribed the ice etc and some heavy painkillers, which did get me home. As a consequence, I couldn't manage the trip to Sha Tin and have to rely on Peter's fulsome description. " it was really interesting". So there you have it, colourful in the extreme and for a fuller picture you'll have use your imaginations and look at the photos!!
It was a very good view of the waterfront from the hotel bedroom window, that much I can tell you.
The previous evening Peter and I had gone down to the hotel bar for a drink late on. One of the walls was completely glass, overlooking a very busy street. We perched on our bar stools watching Hong Kong going about it's business. It was a Saturday evening so business was heavy. The cars were either Mercedes, BMWs, Porches or taxis! Not a lot of variety, but plenty of wealth on display. On the other side of the road was a highly decorated Chinese building, which at first we took to be a restaurant, from the myriad of people in and out, of all ages, style and gender. Cars were double and triple parked or simply abandoned. Eventually, their owners would appear, either clutching a slip of paper or laden with carrier bags full of parcels to pack into the cars, with the assistance of smartly turned out staff. We were intrigued. As time went on we realised this could not be a restaurant, with an extensive take out menu! Occasionally, we caught glimpses of the interior as the doors flew open and we could see folk sitting around tables and gradually gained the impression that they were not eating. Finally, curiosity killed the cat, so to speak. I asked the barman what was going on. He beamed and said simply, "It is a Mah Jong house" and everything instantly fell into place. Of course it was and we were doubly intrigued. What wouldn't we have given to be a fly on the wall in there. I tell you what, there were a lot of taxi drivers who had told the little woman they were working tonight and were doing nothing of the kind!! I hope she was sharp enough to have grabbed the housekeeping before he disappeared for his shift, otherwise Sunday lunch could be scanty!
The journey back to Heathrow was comfortable and uneventful, I'm relieved to say and we landed just before 3pm to a cold, wet, grey London. Oh it was good to be back - not! However, we had one little ray of sunshine (well, two really). Who should come toddling towards us in the arrivals hall with a big beam? Yes, you've guessed it - our beloved Grandson Rafe. A sight for sore eyes after 3 months, oh, and his mother looked pretty good also! It was a lovely surprise, as we had no idea Emily had such a treat up her sleeve.
So, here we are, back to the green green grass of home and contemplating the last three months. What have we learned ? Well, we can survive one another's undiluted company for 3 months and have returned still speaking, which is a plus. We love travelling, which is probably no surprise, as we have covered a great deal of the US in a similar fashion. We are definitely spoiled for flying coach any time soon. (Help!) However, possibly the most instructive point to come out of this trip in an oblique way, is the value of being able to step outside of your life for a period of time. It makes you think, evaluate what you have and consider the future. I'm aware you could attempt the same in a beach hut at Old Hunstanton, whilst carefully wrapped in thermals, but it would be without the mind stretching vistas and personally I need warmth to think effectively. (well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!).Les mer
Now is the Time to Say Goodbye!
24. januar 2014, Australia ⋅ 24 °C
Palm Cove, Queensland, Australia
Friday, January 24, 2014
Now is the time to yield a sigh!! - to quote Peter Cook and Dudley Moore.
In our case and at this point, a truer phrase was never spoken.
It scarcely seems possible that our 3 month Grape Escape is nearly at an end, it has all gone so quickly. Tomorrow, we fly back to Hong Kong for two nights, on the first leg of our homeward journey. We are going to spend our final day at Sha Tin races, which will I hope be a fitting conclusion to Peter's retirement trip. When I think back to our outward stay at the beginning of November, it does seem a long time ago and of course such a lot of water has flown under the proverbial bridge since then.
We have had a quiet last couple of days savouring the warm weather and the beauty of North Queensland. Supper tonight was a final visit to Vivos, our favourite dining spot at Palm Cove and a glass of Villa Maria Sauvignon sits at my elbow as I write this last Australian episode. Nadal has just beaten Federer in the Australian Open semi final (sorry Lesley) and would you believe England have finally won a cricket match down under, in the latest ODI. Wonders will never cease! Thank goodness we were not relying on the cricket to be the highlight of our trip.
Talking of highlights, it is almost impossible to isolate one or two from this journey, because there have been so many and I am deliberately not going to try. All I can say, is that a year ago when planning this Antipodean Adventure, I don't think either of us could have imagined just how spectacular it would be. We are simply so grateful to have had the opportunity to make the journey and to have been able to share it with you all at home.
My nightly appointment with the IPad is soon to be over. I will pen you one further edition from Hong Kong and my book will then be closed. What will I do with my evenings?!?Les mer
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