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gru 2015 – lut 2016

Out Of South Africa

34-dniowa przygoda według The Travel Bug Czytaj więcej
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    31 grudnia 2015

    South Africa Bound

    31 grudnia 2015, Anglia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    This is our second long awaited trip, following the NZ/Oz sojourn and in common with the latter there will no doubt be a hint of the Grape Escape involved! We leave the UK to spend New Year's Eve in the air en route to Cape Town and the Test Match starting on the 2nd. That's a shock for you all I'm sure. If the MCC had got wind of our intentions I'm sure they would have cancelled the tour, after our wonderful record of encouragement for the last Ashes tour!
    The next month will be spent winding our way through the beauty spots of this fabulous country, which I will endeavour to give you a flavour of through my diary notes. My fascination with South Africa began with my Great Uncle Rob, who wrote our family equivalent of Alistair Cooke's 'Letter from America', only make that South Africa. He and his family settled and lived in Cape Town from the beginning of the Second World War having been moved from Egypt where he worked for a major oil company. He had a fabulous turn of phrase and his letters were eagerly awaited by my teenage self. To have the opportunity to visit some of the places he so beautifully described is very special, so watch this space.
    We return home on the 2nd February, always providing we are not eaten by anything major. Keep your fingers crossed for us!
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  • Cape Town Beginnings

    2 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Saturday, January 2, 2016

    Well readers, here we are in Africa, after an uneventful flight from the UK. It feels different the minute you step off the plane. I can't explain why, but you get the sense of a steaming melting pot just over the hill. However, we started off with a slight brouhaha, in that as I passed through the body scanner at Heathrow, it went bananas. Thankfully, all was relatively quiet, it being New Year's Eve and most people having somewhere else to be. It took me a minute to realise that the dreaded knee brace was the culprit! Following the full body search of me and said brace, in a locked room with a witness, all was fine - interesting start!!
    I think every other person on the plane was a 'blood & custard' type and for the uninitiated amongst you, this is the slang term for MCC members, due to the virulent tie that is a required item of apparel. Peter's was duly packed and is on display today. We have bumped into most of our fellow passengers here at Newlands of course!
    The drive from the airport passes a very large township which immediately brings home the journey that this young country has yet to make. Our driver informed us that the government is building a huge amount of new starter homes a year, ownership of which are offered for a very small price, but the occupants have to remain residents for 10 years before they can sell.
    It is a start, but my goodness it will take a while.
    We are staying in the garden district of Capetown in a very smart apartment attached to The Cape Cadogan Hotel. The staff couldn't be more helpful, even to point of running us to and from the Test Match today, which was unexpected. The hotel is in the foothills of Table Mountain, which towers above us as we walk down the street. At night it is floodlit and appears like a ghostly apparition above you. Magnificent sight would be an understatement, with or without its cloud tablecloth. Great restaurants abound. We visited one called Societi Bistro last night, which was jammed. We had a superb meal, including a bottle of very good local wine for less than £30 for the two of us!
    Today, as you will have gathered we are at the Cricket. Peter bought tickets through the MCC, so we have seats in the Pavilion. They are very good, directly on the walkway where the England team come out. They look so young, no more than babes some of them. I could have tucked a couple under my arm and put them down for a nap. It is absolutely sizzling, 29 degrees C and we are in full sun, so its half an hour in our seats and half an hour in the pavillion itself. As the afternoon heat built to some astronomical temperature we have managed to find a couple of seats inside (air conditioned) and are watching through the plate glass windows. The match is tight. Not a lot in the wicket for the bowlers and it must surely be hard and hot work for the South Africans in the field today. They need to be young and fit, that's for sure. Hence, I am tapping away to you all from Newlands itself. It is a beautiful ground, green and verdant with Table Mountain as a backdrop. There surely can't be a finer ground anywhere in the world. It is situated just out of the city in Claremont, which incidentally is where my Gt Uncle lived - no wonder he loved it so. As we found in Australia, everyone here is very friendly and keen to chat. I guess it is the sporting brotherhood. A great yell goes up and Joe Root is out for 50. He comes striding up the stairs past me, muttering to himself in disgust and the colour of a Belisha beacon. 'Poor boy' says I, 'rubbish' shot back Peter 'he should be disgusted, it's a flat wicket and it was a soft dismissal!' I think I'll just pop round and see whether he would like a cup of tea and a motherly hug in his iced bath! In truth, he would probably prefer that from some lissom young thing 40 years younger!!
    And so here endeth the first South African epistle. Tomorrow is planned to be more of the same, so we'll speak again when I have something different to tell you. Think of us in the clear blue skies and sizzling temperatures of a South African summer. It's tough, I can tell you!
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  • Ben Stokes and Johnny Bairstow in determined mood
    a triumphant return!Supper stop!Camps BayThe famous Camps Bay sunset

    NewlandsAgain

    3 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    I know I said I would have nothing to say, but I can't not comment on the fabulous days cricket we watched today. It is still scorchingly hot, but we managed to switch seats to two in the shade, which enabled us to stay outside all day. This is really for the cricket aficionados - what a day!
    Ben Stokes and Jonny Bairstow set off like rockets from the get go and piled on over 300 runs in half a day. As you will know from the scorecard Stokes scored 258, the fastest double hundred by an Englishman and the 2nd fastest double hundred of all time. Bairstow hit 150 and their 6th wicket partnership of 399 was a world record. They were scintillating and I don't suppose we will ever see the like again. How lucky were we?
    This evening we ate at Paranga in Camps Bay watching a spectacular sunset over the sea. Warm and balmy it was the perfect end to a once in a lifetime day.
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  • The waterfront
    Table Mountain from the FerryThe prisonNelson Mandela's cellHis barred outlook on the worldSusu explaining the routineThe prisoners book

    Robbyn Island and the Waterfront

    4 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Monday, January 4, 2016

    Today we have taken a break from Newlands and visited Robbyn Island the site of Nelson Mandela's incarceration for 27 years. The ferry leaves from the Waterfront, which was once the Victorian docks for the city of Cape Town. In common with many such sites around the world, the area has been renovated and rejuvenated into a modern conglomeration of flats, offices, shops and restaurants. Situated on the harbour, it is an attractive addition and draws many visitors.
    Luckily for us it was another sweltering day and the wind minimal, so the crossing was calm. It takes about 40 minutes. There were seals, penguins, sea birds and best of all, whales feeding in the harbour. Don't ask me to name the type, as one blow hole and tail flip looks very much like another, but it was an unexpected thrill to see them. As you approach the island it looks bleak and windswept, which is not far from the truth, although there are more buildings and trees than you might expect. Originally the only vegetation was fynbos, the low scrubby plants indigenous to South Africa, until the British introduced trees from Australia in the 1890s. It was not a good move , as the eucalyptus was one and they have proliferated. Each tree drinks 300litres of fresh water a day, with the result that there is no longer any fresh water to be found on the Island and it all has to be brought from the mainland. Robbyn Island is small, just 5 miles by 3 and has been used for holding political prisoners of one type and another since the days of the Dutch in 1662. It has also housed a leprosy and smallpox isolation camp over the years and there is a very poignant cemetery.
    The tour is well managed, and in two stages. Firstly, you are driven around the island by bus with a guide pointing out the main features and delving into it's history and geography. We were lucky enough to be allocated two superb guides, Yaseem for the bus commentary and Suzu for the prison itself. I should point out that all the guides have at some time been prisoners here themselves and so their narrative is very personal and from the heart. The prison block is as you would imagine on the outside, plain and unadorned, but it doesn't prepare you for the sheer bleakness of the interior. Grey concrete as far as the eye can see, with bars instead of windows. There was no glass, therefore it could be stiflingly hot or extremely cold, particularly at night. There was no heating, only cold water to wash in, a slopping out system that had to be seen to be believed and no books, letters or visits. The leading political prisoners were held in tiny single cells, with no creature comforts. There is just a stool, a metal dish and cup, the slopp bucket and a hessian rug to sleep on - no blankets. The days were spent in the lime quarry, which we saw and was blinding in the sun. No dark glasses were allowed and men often suffered with the equivalent of snow blindness. At the end of the day they would have to attempt to wash off the lime sticking to their skin with cold water, whatever the time of year. Nelson Mandela worked in that quarry for 13 years. Both guides stressed that he was an exceptional human being, a natural leader of men and started to compile 'The Long Walk to Freedom' in the exercise courtyard in the corner known as Nelson Mandela's garden. This was in the 70s when international pressure had ensured that conditions were improved, educational materials allowed, letters and visits. Hot showers were also then installed and flush toilets.
    It is hard to believe that men were tortured and treated so harshly in our lifetime for their political beliefs. It was an absolutely inspirational visit. Nelson Mandela's mantra on his eventual release in 1991 was that the peoples of South Africa must sit around a table and discuss the way forward for all its citizens. There must be hope, tolerance, forgiveness and reconciliation and our guides put over that sentiment with conviction.
    I would not say this is a visit of joy, but it is of necessity and we felt privileged and grateful to have experienced it through the eyes of men who had first hand knowledge of the regime. The thought of Robbyn Island will forever put shivers up my spine.
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  • Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens
    The Hot House!Pincushion ProteaSpot the DinosaursAgapanthus in full bloomwalkway planted by Cecil Rhodesone of the beautiful quilts on displaythe view over Cape Town

    Cape Town in Bloom

    5 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Tuesday, January 5, 2016

    The oracle here thought that today's cricket would be attritional (and of course he was right), so we decided to attack our list and head for Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens this morning. It has been another scorchingly hot day, with not a cloud in the sky.
    The site is huge in acreage, although only a small part is actually laid out as a garden. The land extends right up the eastern slopes of Table Mountain and if you feel so inclined you can climb up Skeleton Ravine and walk to the Table Mountain cable car to descend.
    The land was purchased by Cecil Rhodes in 1895 for £9000 to protect the area from urban developers and when he died in 1902, the estate was left to the Nation. In 1913 Kirstenbosch became a botanical garden dedicated to the cultivation and study of the indigenous plants of South Africa. Messrs Pearson and Mathews, a Cambridge botanist and Kew trainee were the first Director and Curator who were responsible for much of the layout and they adhered to the stunning natural setting they were presented with. It is absolutely spectacular, but with a very different feel to the likes of Kew, less manicured, wilder and free as befits the landscape and the country come to that! It was fascinating for me to see all the fabulous exotic species I can use at home at a price, growing in their natural environment. The agapanthus are at their very best as is the indigo bush and the watsonias. Streptocarpus are growing as ground cover under the trees when we struggle to keep them as a houseplant! Too much water is their nemesis, which is probably why most of us kill them with kindness. All sorts of hanging basket annuals romp away here all year in their natural environment. King Proteas are for sale on the side of the roads for pence! I understand the real time to see maximum colour is the 2/3rd week of September, but it was still pretty amazing now.
    We took the shuttle tour as we knew there would be no chance of covering it all on foot in such heat. It was undoubtedly the right decision as the guide was a mine of information that we would have never picked up alone. I sat next to him with a bird's eye view. Howard was a real character, with a thick South African accent. When In passing I mentioned how hot it was, he grinned and said he came from the desert of the Little Karoo, where 55 degrees was not unheard of, so whilst it was warm, he wasn't breaking sweat-and he was't! “Have a look in the conservatory if you want a feel of what I am used to” he said. We already had and lasted 5 minutes before having to seek shade outside to cool off, relatively speaking. This was a terrific visit for me particularly and I'll include some photos to give you a feel.
    We stepped back in time this afternoon, by having afternoon tea at The Mt Nelson Hotel. We have had afternoon tea in some pretty wonderful venues, so they had something to live up to! The building and decor is lovely, albeit very traditional and old school. We sat on the classic colonial verandah, complete with potted ferns, by the open door overlooking beautiful gardens. The tea was lovely, with a true South African flavour that you would hope for and expect. Two points they need to note however, from the home of the afternoon tea, never make tea in front of the guest with off the boil water and sweetened whipped cream doesn't cut the mustard on the scones. I spared the management my thoughts and we had a relaxing delightful high tea and certainly will not want anything more today, except perhaps a nice G&T later on and on that note I think I will go and mix one. Cheers!
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  • The Gondola to the summit
    Cape Town from the Gondola stationfynbos on top of Table MtnLooking down over Camps BayThe view down the Cape to the SouthA Sunbird feeding on nectarIf I ever had pretensions to own a Flower Shop - this would be it!

    Table Mountain

    6 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Wednesday, January 6, 2016

    It was an early start this morning to get to the cable car and up the mountain to beat the crowds. It worked brilliantly. We were in the gondola just before nine and on top of Table Mountain a little after the hour. Yes, us, but boy was it worth it.
    Cape Town's iconic landmark was created some 540 million years ago when during an uplifting period these rocks were squeezed upwards between two tectonic plates in the earth's crust. It's north face overlooks the city centre and is flanked by the formations of Lion's Head and Signal Hill to the west and Devil's Peak to the East. A series of gable like mountains known as the Twelve Apostles march away to the south. You can walk (if you can call it that!) to the top in about 2hrs and as we rose ever steadily upwards in our gondola we saw several fit, hardy souls on the trail. The whole area is a National Park and is covered in fynbos clinging to every ledge, nook and cranny. Plants are incredible how they can survive in the most inauspicious circumstances ie tremendous temperature range, high winds and thin, acid, almost non existent soils. Incidentally, fynbos consists of a vast number of low scrubby plants of the Erica or heather family, Restionacaea grasses, and Protea or leucadendron families, bulbs, daisies and pelargoniums. The gondola rotates through 360 degrees on its journey, giving one a fantastic view over the city and the approaching mountain, which is surprisingly heavily jointed and cracked vertically and horizontally when viewed close up. I saw my first wild flowering King Protea on the way up. The Western Cape, a small flora area, has over 2,500 species of plants in comparison to the UKs 1500 or so.
    Once on the top the views are as spectacular as you might expect in all directions. The surface is rocky and uneven; the result of wind and water erosion, it is however, a microcosm of plants and animals and simply fascinating to study. To our delight we had hardly taken 20 steps from the cable car when a hyrax darted across our path. They look like outsize fluffy guinea pigs and are known locally as dassies, however, their closest relative is the elephant. They are shy creatures and so we were very lucky to see one. We took a short guided walk, which was very informative and then walked the perimeter of the 'Table Top' which is large. A large flock of tiny sunbirds flitted in and amongst the vegetation feeding on nectar from the flowers. They are clearly used to the public watching and photographing them going about their business, as they were completely unfazed by our presence. The temperature has dropped slightly today to more manageable numbers, which helped us, because there is no natural shade.
    We were down at the bottom by midday and took the red tourist bus around Camps Bay and the western beaches before heading back into the city, stopping off at the Waterfront for some lunch at the Food Market. This is an old warehouse filled with a myriad of great local food outlets. We made our selection and sat down by a TV to catch up on the cricket. The change in the weather had brought a little luck for South Africa and England had lost five wickets at this point, so game on, but probably still a draw in the offing. We got chatting to a charming local young couple who live in the Garden District where we are staying. We whiled away an interesting half hour putting the world to rights, before parting and heading back to the bus stop to pick up our blue bus back to More Quarters.
    On the way through a really lovely artisan craft warehouse. I spotted an unusual stall that make items from used tea bags, yes you heard me correctly first time! A driftwood Christmas tree was beautifully decorated with charming tea bag decorations. You might know the tree would catch my eye. Underneath was a quote from Eleanor Roosevelt which you will see in the photo section. How true- it made me smile!
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  • One of the many spectacular seascapes on the way down to the CapeThe lighthouse at Cape PointCape PointJackass PenguinsBoulder BeachAbel Seaman 'Just Nuisance' at Simonstown

    The Cape of Good Hope

    7 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Thursday, January 7, 2016

    Unbelievably, this is our final day in CapeTown. It is without doubt a magnificent city, with an enviable lifestyle and climate. We have loved it and would return in the blink of an eye.
    The Cape Doctor set in last night. This is a strong, dry, south easterly wind that blows through the city, removing any pollution and humidity to the ocean. Boy does it gust and rattle the hinges, but it is warm, which is a blessing.
    It has been a long, but great day. We set off to drive the Atlantic coast via Camps Bay, Hout Bay and Chapman's Peak to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. It is a spectacular drive hugging the shoreline most of the way. The mountains descend almost to the ocean and the vistas of coastline and blue green ocean are spellbinding. The further south one drives, the more rugged the scenery. Outcrops of rock and a multi coloured tapestry of fynbos dominate the landscape. The fynbos vegetation is perfectly adapted to the environment and subtle, but taken as a whole quite beautiful. One enters another section of the Table Mountain National Park approaching the end of the Cape Peninsula. There are two major sites to visit, Cape Point and The Cape of Good Hope itself. Here is the most south westerly point of the continent of Africa and the popularly perceived meeting of two major oceans, the Indian and Atlantic. This is in fact not the case, as here meet two contrasting currents, the cold West Coast Benguela current and the warm East Coast Angulhas current. The actual geographical meeting point of the oceans is in fact further up the coast at Cape Angulhas. The Cape of Good Hope is surprisingly low key, a fantastic shoreline and promontory, but little else. Cape Point is the more lauded of the two, as there is a lighthouse you can climb up to on the 200 ft cliffs looking out over the wild ocean. You take a funicular railway to the base of the lighthouse and climb from there. There were signs warning one to beware of the baboons, but we didn't see any until driving away and there sat one by the side of the road like a little old man hoping for a lift! What we did see however, were a pair of fabulous albatross, riding the winds and skimming just above the waves in effortless style. What a treat.
    The homeward drive up the east coast of the peninsula, took us to Simonstown, named for an early Dutch governor Simon van der Stel who was determined to leave his mark, naming Constantia for his daughter and Stellenbosch again for himself. Clearly a man with a large ego!
    Simonstown has a distinct English feel and retains some unique old buildings. It has been and is a large naval base for the Royal Navy and since 1957 the South African Navy. On the harbour is the statue of a Gt Dane called 'Able Seaman Just Nuisance'. The only dog to have been enlisted by the Royal Navy, as a moral booster during the Second World War. He adopted the Naval Shore establishment and its sailors, riding the local train to Cape Town and accompanying the drunken sailors back to base. When the rail company threatened to have him put down if his fare wasn't paid, the Navy enlisted him, hence entitling him to free rail travel!
    Just up the coast is Boulder's Beach, a stunningly beautiful white sand beach full of.....well huge boulders! Here is a 2000 strong African (jackass) Penguin colony. This was established by two breeding pairs in 1982 and has grown ever since. There is a board walk to follow, which allows one to view the little chaps very closely without disturbing their antics. They were simply charming, full of fun and perfectly turned out for a night on the town! Rafe would have loved them.
    We arrived back in Cape Town in the late afternoon having had a superb final day in the Western Cape. It was by necessity a whistle stop tour, but one that will be long remembered.
    We dined at another marvellous eatery called 95Keerom this evening. Great setting, food and wine, again for less than £30. What more can I say?
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  • Laid out for breakfastThe Town of FranschoekMt Rochelle

    Franschoek

    8 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
    Friday, January 8, 2016

    Today has been relatively quiet and a travelling day, so we finally took our little Hyundai out for a spin. We were sad to say goodbye to More Quarters who had made us so comfortable, but the onward journey to Franschoek more than made up for it. It takes about one and a half hours to make the drive at a gentle pace and once you turn off the N2 it is a very pretty run. The Franschoek mountains gradually loom into view and the surroundings become more undulating and the odd vine appears. Once through Stellenbosch, an attractive university town, you turn right heading up and over the Helshoogte Pass. The scenery is dramatic with marvellous views down into the valleys and wineries start to pop up all over the place. In some respects we were reminded of Marlborough in New Zealand, but the landscape is more rugged and extreme.
    We arrived in the charming town of Franschoek just before 1o'clk, in time to wander down its Main Street lined with small boutique type shops and traditional Cape Dutch buildings. This is the sort of settlement that you think of when contemplating the winelands of South Africa.
    In Afrikaans the word Franschoek means 'French Corner' and as the name suggests was once a French enclave, when over 300 years ago a group of Huguenot settlers arrived fleeing religious persecution. It is this influence combined with the larger Dutch speaking community that has given the area such colour and unsurprisingly a taste for fine wine and food.
    It is a bright and sunny day, but continues to be blustery with the Cape Doctor blowing. After an excellent lunch at an artisan bakery we drove out of town to find our hotel for the night, Mont Rochelle. Now this establishment came highly recommended via Richard and Alyson, so we expected it to be good, but oh boy is it ever! I think we'll have a job to top this. Set on a hill just out of the town with beautiful mountain views sits the white painted thatched former estate house. On first view it appears modest, but on entering its portals the impression quickly fades. It is all gloriously put together and following registration, which is undertaken on the verandah to the accompaniment of a glass of champagne, we were shown to the Vineyard wing. It was an OMG moment to be honest, to match Palazzo Avino in Ravello. These are rooms with a view. A huge lounge in modern style, an equally spectacular bedroom and a bathroom the size of our kitchen with an oval bath. Be still my beating heart - blow the wine tasting, I could sit in that bath sipping something interesting from the fridge (all complimentary) and gazing out of the glass walls overlooking the private garden with plunge pool and the mountains. I took advantage of the gym this afternoon and we ate at Miko, the flagship restaurant this evening. All excellent apart from the fact that the red wine was too cold. The Maitre D tried to say that they keep all the Reds at the temp needed for the Pinot Noir, which is slightly cooler. Try taking a few bottles out late afternoon then - go on be honest, am I getting too picky?!
    Incidentally, the champagne offered is produced locally and was served at Nelson Mandela's inauguration as President. It was subsequently served at Barack Obama's also, because he was so impressed with it. I could see why.
    Wine Tasting tomorrow leaving at 9.30am. Help! I suspect we will need a bit more breakfast than muesli on this occasion.
    TTFN.
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  • The Hugenot Monument, Franschoek
    Grand Provence WineryThe Art Gallery at La MotteLunch stop at Stellenbosch Botanic GardensRustenberg Winery GardensAt Rustenberg WineryDrakenstein Prison - Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom

    The Wine Tour

    9 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 20 °C

    Franschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa
    Saturday, January 9, 2016

    I'm not quite sure where to begin today. It's been such a full day my mind is in something of a whirl. We have had the company of a wine expert by the name of Pietman Retief. An engaging, generous and knowledgeable personality, he has lived all his life in and around Stellenbosch and spent his working years in the wine industry. We have touched every possible aspect of life in South Africa, as well as wine and it has been fascinating.
    We began high above Franschoek looking down on the valley settled in the mid 1600s by his French Hugenot ancestors, some nine generations ago, when wild animals roamed the area and life was far tougher than it is now. Dutch settlers were already here and initially nine French families were granted land to make their own. Their farms were unsurprisingly named after their home areas ie Champagne, Versailles, Grand Provence etc. Dutch farms were interestingly named more for the families experiences and emotions ie Great Expectations, Hard Journey etc etc. The land was granted by the then Dutch governor, with the purpose of farmers producing food, to be supplied to the many visiting ships on their way to the East from Europe. Viewed from on high it is a beautiful valley surrounded by the Franschoek mountains in which at least two pairs of leopards still roam.
    Descending to the valley floor we viewed the elegant, marble, Hugenot monument in Franschoek whilst the history discussion continued. Having ascertained that we were interested in art and gardens, and politics, Pietman endeavoured to include lots of interesting asides as well as the study of the grape!
    We started at Haute Cabriere one of the best makers of South African bubbly. The brand name is Pierre Jourdan and the Belle Rose pink champagne was particularly fine. Grand Provence was next on our list, where the art work, in particular the sculpture, rivalled the bottle. There were lovely gardens set out with sculpture and ceramics, plus two stunning galleries. This was followed by Ricketty Bridge, more for the tremendous amount of restoration the current owners have put into the farm. I should add that these establishments are usually graced by the most superb thatched Cape Dutch Manor Houses, of the type you instantly think of in relation to the winelands of South Africa. La Motte was another huge property with the most fantastic artworks and the red wines were stupendous.
    We gradually made our way towards Stellenbosch and had lunch at the University Botanic Gardens, which were another find. On the way is a vintage motor car museum. Johannes Rupert of La Motte fame has over 350 vintage cars as an added interest and I can think of several friends who would be keen to stop here. Stellenbosch itself is the second oldest settlement in the cape and our guide was justifiably proud of his picturesque home town. It has retained most of its original buildings and even the village green. On the way out of town back towards Franschoek Pietman drove us through the Ida Valley to visit the Rustenberg winery, which he thought we would like to see, for the proprietor's wife's English garden as much as the farm. The garden was a revelation, with so many plants thronging the herbaceous borders, both English and South African natives. All around the area you will find oaks, not as strong or as large as their English cousins, due to the climate, but impressive never the less. Twelve thousand saplings were planted in these valleys in the 18th century, many of which are still growing. The Graf estate was next on the list and as Aly remarked to me, this is pure theatre. Over 30million pounds of Graf diamond money has been lavished on restoring this run down farm. What you see now is quite incredible, for its taste, scale and beauty and that's without the wine! Again, the artworks are out of this world and we were quite spellbound. Tokara was our last winery and once more the art was fantastic. The wine production section was state of the art and you might be interested to know that they have an annual competition for local artists to create a painting, simply using the contents of a bottle of red wine, The results had to be seen to be believed.
    Approaching Franschoek, we turned off the main road for a final time and tucked in the middle of the countryside is a small prison called Drakenstein. This was where Nelson Mandella was held for the final 18months of his imprisonment. It was from these gates that he made the last 100 yds of his long walk to freedom, greeted by thousands and watched by people on TV all over the world. It is one of the iconic images in time and I suspect we can all remember where we were when we saw it.
    What a day.
    There are some 80 wineries around Franschoek and approaching 200 in the Stellenbosch area. Millions of pounds have been poured into this area over the last 20 years, mainly by outside investors and this is continuing. The likes of Richard Branson and an Indian Multimillionaire called Singh are the new kids on the block. The investment is huge. One can only hope it will not be overdone.
    Our day finished back at La Motte, where we managed to have another shot at their wines accompanied by dinner. It was a tasting menu accompanied by the appropriate wines and it seemed a fitting end to a fabulous day.
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  • Looking down on the Franschoek Valley
    The Graf Estate from yesterdaySculpture at the Graf EstateThe Graf ReceptionTasting at La Brie WineryLunch at Roca, Dieu DonneThe view from our table!And in the other direction!

    The Wine Tram

    10 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 23 °C

    Cape Winelands, Western Cape, South Africa
    Sunday, January 10, 2016

    We awoke feeing slightly punch drunk this morning after our marathon effort yesterday. No, we were not hungover as you only take little sips on the tastings! Mind you, that's more than can be said for a couple of guys at breakfast who looked decidedly seedy and struggled to eat anything to the clear annoyance of their wives! Sympathy was not obvious.
    At 11.30 we joined the wine tram that visits a variety of wineries around Franschoek. It's rather like a hop on hop off bus, with the advantage that you can indulge in yet more tastings without worrying about driving. We felt tasted out in truth after yesterday and so stopped only twice. Firstly, at La Brie, a small boutique winery. This was one of the original nine farms granted to the Huguenots in the 1650s and the wine maker was a lady. The wines were lovely; soft and elegant and it was really interesting to witness a small production farm as opposed to a huge multimillion rand operation.
    We rejoined the tram and were instantly caught up with a wedding party who were in high spirits and likely to be higher before the day was over I suspect! The bride was Australian and the groom South African and we were seriously impressed that they were all up for the wine tram today. They were great fun and had had a marvellous wedding at one of the wineries yesterday. This is extremely popular and a lot less costly than England, Australia and the USA apparently.
    Our second port of call was at Dieu Donne, a winery set high above the valley and the highest altitude for growing vines in the area. We were booked at their renowned restaurant Roca for lunch. We were shown to our table on a wide shady terrace with commanding views over the surrounding countryside. It was stunning. The wind has dropped a little today and the temperature has risen accordingly. It was 41 degrees in the shade, exceptional even for here apparently. Lunch was very good, accompanied by even more of the grape! I hardened my heart and had the Springbok. Well, you have to try the local specialities. It was delicious. I had hovered over ostrich, but kept seeing those long eyelashes and couldn't do it. I'm determined to try it before we leave, when I can pluck up the courage! Yet another wine tasting followed and a couple of cracking wines emerged. By then, we had had enough and decamped back to Mont Rochelle to chill out and enjoy the facilities. I think we have earned a break. All this wine tasting is mentally and physically exhausting! Peter thinks he is in danger of getting repetitive wine glass lifting strain injury!!
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  • Walker Bay
    Naturalised bulbs on the cliff topcoastal fynbosThe CoastlineOcean's Eleven Guest House from the Coastal PathA natural rock gardenFlowering cactus amongst the fynbosHyrax keeping an eye on us!The Fernkloof Reserve

    Hermanus

    12 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    Hermanus, Hermanus, South Africa
    Tuesday, January 12, 2016

    We arrived here yesterday afternoon after another beautiful drive from Franschoek, which we were sorry to leave. Hermanus sits on rocky cliffs to the northern end of Walker Bay, with the Overberg Mountains behind. This area is known as the whale coast, as during the winter months ie June to December large numbers of whales congregate to calve and raise their young in the sheltered waters here. They are so plentiful and come in so close to shore that they can be observed from the cliffs and thousands gather to watch the spectacle. There are also many trips out to view them from a boat and even now off season you can take a trip to see the sea life around Dyer Island. Here are large numbers of seals and penguins, plus large white sharks which prey on them. The stretch of sea between Dyer Island and the mainland in known as shark alley. Interesting .........but I think we'll pass!
    We are staying at a Guest House called Oceans Eleven, which is very comfortable and our room looks out right over the Bay. If it were the right time of year one could theoretically lay in bed and whale watch from there! Guest houses are interesting places, usually for the abundant opportunity to people watch and the little gems they produce. We hadn't been here 5 mins before a Martin Bryce character strode into view and we have been avid observers ever since. (Richard Briers played Martin in 'Ever Decreasing Circles' for those of you who have no idea what I am talking about). 'Martin' is English of course and felt it necessary to give those of us unfortunate enough to be in reception at the time a blow by blow account of his day. This mornings breakfast produced another couple of bon mots. He had to tell all of the run he and 'Angela' (make that Ann) had had first thing this morning, which he had let her win. 'It's a question of the tortoise and the snail!'......Bless him! He was quiet only when eating and the classic was ......'let me tell you I have a very valuable collection of vinyls!' Right....and moving swiftly on....Can't wait for the next encounter, but a cliff walk awaits and we had better get going.
    The coastal cliff path is approximately 5kms long and is a lovely walk, however much of it you tackle. The views of the rocky coastline and Walker Bay are unsurpassed. As you will see from the photos the specially adapted coastal fynbos is fascinating. There are so many different species clinging to the salt laden cliff top, a habitat you would think any plant would struggle with. Because of the conditions and the wind the vegetation tends to be low and some sections are more like a natural rock garden. Our hotel sits about half way along the path, so we decided to walk one half to the New Harbour and back again. Yet again we were in luck and saw two hyraxes; one basking in a rock and the other hopped across our path.
    This is all part of the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and after lunch we visited the mountain section which is just out of town. Here are larger plant specimens more suited to a mountainside. There were the proteas of all types, larger Ericas and many more plants I couldn't name. It has been a fascinating flora orientated day and the knee has held up to its longest walk to date, with the brace of course. We are heading back to the New Harbour this evening for a seafood supper, hopefully on some of the enormous crayfish we saw landed this morning.
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  • Rothman Manor
    Our room at Rothman ManorThe lotus pondLook what's at the bottom of the garden!

    Swellendam

    13 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    Swellendam, Western Cape, South Africa
    Wednesday, January 13, 2016

    Today has been a moving day so not too much to report.
    'Martin' was in full cry at breakfast, minus 'Ann', who was not feeling too well apparently. Probably just couldn't stand the thought of a few more tales, which she has no doubt heard countless times before. He is great sportsman, as you might expect and has over the years become friendly and played with a number of international players (unnamed of course, as were the sports). He has been having a little trouble at work though, as one of his co workers hasn't spoken to him for 3 months (hardly surprising) and so he requested a meeting with said worker and their line manager to thrash it out. Various nebulous reasons were put forward, but as Martin said " such nonsense is not going to get me down, having been with Special Branch in Islamabad being stoned and spat on !!!” After a slice of Sheila's excellent carrot cake, we were almost sorry to move on and couldn't decide whether he has led a very full life or is something of a Walter Mitty character. I leave you to work that out for yourselves!
    The scenery on the journey to Swellendam was different once more. We were travelling away from the coast to the base of the Overberg Mountains. The countryside is majestic and agricultural, with wide open fields as far as the eye can see, backed by craggy peaks in the distance. There were some livestock and rather like New Zealand, farms are isolated and vast. We saw cranes and birds of prey enroute, arriving in Swellendam mid afternoon. It is small, unspoiled and a bit of a one horse town and was originally an administration centre and stopping off point logistically for the Dutch East India Co. It is surrounded by beautiful countryside however, although we will probably have little time to see too much, as it is a one night stop.
    However, the surprise package was our Guest House, Rothman Manor. A pure Cape Dutch Manor House complete with thatched roof and a garden to die for. I will include some pics. The suite is superbly appointed even to having a modern four poster bed. Nina, who showed us to our room, suggested we have a look round and discover the surprise at the bottom of the garden. No, not fairies, but zebra and springbok! There is a very deep haha separating the garden from the wild patch (plus an electric fence I should add) and there they were cropping the grass quietly. Now I believe we are in Africa.
    Just out of interest the second surprise package came in the shape of a restaurant named Field & Fork this evening. A very old old building lit by candlelight ( a big help at our age of course!) It was fabulous and by far the best meal we have had. The chef is a 24yr old young lady who could hold her head up anywhere and we were still nowhere near the £40 mark.
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  • A misty start out of Swellendam
    The Creamery at BarrydaleKitsch or what?They were to die forRte 62 throughThe Little KarooThe pub with a difference!

    The Little Karoo

    13 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    Swellendam, Western Cape, South Africa
    Thursday, January 14, 2016

    We awoke to a familiar sound this morning, the pit patter of rain on the patio! The locals are ecstatic, as the whole of South Africa is in the grip of a drought after the winter rains failed.
    It was a travelling day in any case, as we had 225kms to cover through the Little Karoo to Oudtshoorn the ostrich capital of the world. Rte 62 is the inland mountain equivalent of the garden route and tends to be overlooked as a consequence. It is takes you through dramatic passes and valleys, through small non tourist dorps (towns) and villages and gives one the opportunity to see South Africa behind closed doors. Our journey today did all of that, plus the chance to view the Little Karoo first hand. This is an area of arid semi desert, in contrast with oases of fertile green valleys. The landscape is majestic and awe inspiring as the road rises and falls through a series of badlands where the colours seem almost sepia like. It is clothed in low fynbos of yet a different mix. When you stop and look closely it is a different story, plants are beautifully adapted to their habitat and there are flowers, but subtle and often strange looking. In the spring this region is a riot of brilliant colour for a few weeks, when everything flowers at once with the spring rains.
    There were a couple of interesting places en route that will hold in the mind. Firstly, Barrydale, a small but charming town through Tradouw's Pass, with a character that makes you feel that it could be named after Barry on the Eggheads. We dropped into the best organised small supermarket I think I have ever come across and this was only reinforced by the fact that they sold oasis. I did a double take. You can scarcely buy it in the UK, let alone in the back end of South Africa! For those of you who have no clue what I am talking about - it is floral foam used for flower arranging. On advice we stopped at Diesel and Creamery, a converted garage and gas station whose decor is 1950s kitsch and quirky. They serve the best milk shakes in the world. There were Butterick sewing patterns framed on the back of the 'senhoritas' doors, a pair of stilettos in the corner as an adornment and a vintage bra hanging by the wash basin. I dread to think what artefacts were in the 'senhors' and as Peter didn't require the convenience, I didn't find out!
    Secondly, in the middle of nowhere, with no settlement in site, loomed a low white building by the side of the road. Plastered on the side in bold lettering were the words 'RONNIES SEX SHOP'. I kid you not. There is photographic evidence. Peter screamed to a halt; he claims to take a photo?! There were several cars parked outside and it was only later that we found out that it is in fact a pub and the unusual name is to attract the curious customer. Sheer genius!
    We arrived here in Oudtshoorn about 3pm and are staying at a small boutique hotel called The Rosenhof. Pure Victoriana, antique furniture and all. This is of course very much in keeping with the boom time of Oudtshoorn, when Victorian fashion was desperate for the very best ostrich feathers and the land and climate are perfect for their rearing. By the 1880s hundreds of thousands of kilograms of feathers were being exported for vast sums and serious fortunes were made. We will investigate this further tomorrow.
    As a postscript, Peter, on prowling the room, (as is his habit), has come across this curious plugged in device that appears to have no purpose. 'What do think this is?' says he? 'Do you think we are being spied on?'
    'Well' says I 'if that is the case they are going to be seriously disappointed!'
    And on that note I'll say Nite Nite!!
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  • The Rosenkof
    Cango CavesThe Cango Ostrich FarmMounting an Ostrich!Riding an OstrichThe coveted filing cabinet!

    Oudtshoorn

    15 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    Oudtshoorn, Western Cape, South Africa
    Friday, January 15, 2016

    This morning we set out to visit the Cango Caves system some 30 kms north of Oudtshoorn, just us and about 500 Frenchmen on Harley Davidsons, or so it seemed! Thankfully, the tour was in English. The caverns were gradually formed some 20million years ago in Pre Cambrian limestone under the Swartberg mountains and discovered by a Karoo farmer Jacobus van Zyll sliding down a rope with an oil lamp in 1780. It wasn't until the 1960/70s that the Caves were opened up to mass tourism and a careful balancing act has been struck to safeguard the amazing formations that they contain. You can only visit cavern one, which actually consists of several chambers and access to the other four are carefully controlled as the calcium carbonate formations are still active in various fantastic guises. One can see an interpretive film to fill in the gaps that are not covered by the tour. We were unsure quite what to expect, but it was certainly worth the visit and the caverns are indeed a wonder of nature.
    We followed this with a visit to the Cango Ostrich Farm conveniently placed on the return trip to town. Again, there was a degree of reluctance, but as I said to Peter, we cannot visit the Ostrich capital of the world without seeing an Ostrich! This is a show farm as opposed to a commercial enterprise and the birds live a full life of up to 70 years. These days they are farmed for their meat and leather, the feathers being a very incidental offshoot. Close too, they are intriguing creatures with a real character of their own. The males are the grander of the species with their beautiful black and white plumage, but as our guide stated, the smaller brown females are definitely the sharper of the two. This is of course relative, as their eyes are larger than their brains and her quote of the day was that 'the lights are on, but there is nobody at home!' The eggs are enormous and extremely strong. It takes the chick 10-12 days to break out of the shell and a fully grown man of 200lbs can stand on one without breaking it. We enjoyed the tour in the company of a young American honeymoon couple from Chicago and a family with two young daughters from Cape Town. We made a jolly group and it was both fun and illuminating. Ostriches were fed, kissed and ridden and a lot learned in between!
    I must be strong and try the meat this evening. It is on the menu here and there will be no better time to break my duck, or ostrich, if you get my drift!
    This afternoon seemed the right time to visit one of the feather palaces built during the boom period with money made from 'ostrich gold'. The Le Roux Town House was built in 1908 as a weekend retreat for the farming family. All these homes were constructed of sandstone, which was the local stone of abundance and no expense was spared by these feather millionaires to proclaim their wealth to the world. All the furniture and fixtures and fittings were ordered from catalogues and the contents of the entire house shipped from England to Mossel Bay, the nearest port and brought overland by Ox Cart. The family changed nothing over the years and continued to use it as their weekend retreat from their even larger home on the farm until the early 60s, when the Oudtshoorn Museum Trust purchased it. The furniture on show now is not original as the family obviously kept it, but the wallpapers curtains and carpets are all still there in a fabulous state of preservation, including an amazing bordered Wilton carpet specially woven to exactly fit the unusually shaped parlour. I suspect the fact that it was only used at weekends, plus the warm dry climate, has helped here. All the wooden doors, architraves and built in furniture are painted to resemble top quality wood in trompe l'oeil tradition. It was very much the fashion with the very wealthy to do so, as it required a master craftsman at great expense, to achieve such an effect. Art Nouveau stained glass is on show throughout the house, edged in copper as opposed to lead, again as it was a more expensive medium. Trying to outdo the 'Joneses' has been going on from time immemorial!
    However, the piece de resistance for Peter, was in the study (probably no surprise there!). A beautiful wooden filing cabinet stood in the corner, which he really coveted. Some like diamonds, others............ On enquiry of our guide, the piece was donated to the museum for use here in the house by a retired accountant. Well, would you ever!
    I am sitting tapping away to you on the verandah outside our room. The rooms here are situated round around a lovely lawned oblong courtyard, with trees to shade them and a central fountain tinkling away in the background. It is all very relaxing, warm and comfortable and we shall make the most of it all before moving on tomorrow to Knysna on the Indian Ocean and the Garden Route.
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  • view from the Rosenkof terrace
    Approaching the Garden RouteThe view of the lagoon and the heads from our balconyand the other direction - spoiled for choice!Knysna Headsit's a long way up!The coastal pathA well deserved lunch under the milkwood trees at The Featherbed Centre

    Knysna

    16 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    Knysna, Western Cape, South Africa
    Saturday, January 16, 2016

    It is a two hour drive from Oudtshoorn in the semi desert Little Karoo to Knysna on the garden route coast and what a difference that relatively short drive brings. I suspect we left Oudtshoorn in the nick of time as the temperature was due to be in the mid nineties today. It was a fantastic drive in that one started in semi desert and about half way to the coast the scenery suddenly changed and became greener the closer to the sea one travelled. The hillsides were now clothed in flowering fynbos of yet a different mix to before. We stopped for coffee quite by chance at a Rose Nursery and restaurant strangely enough called Rosenkof, which was the name of our hotel in Oudtshoorn. One could have been forgiven for thinking that this one was in a sub tropical alpine region, so different was the landscape. It was charming, there were roses, lavender and a beautiful garden. Stepping out of the car you were immediately aware that the air was fresher and perfumed. The views were stupendous and the restaurant and coffee pretty good too. They also did a nice line in quotations of which I'll give you a sight of later.
    The closer to the coast we travelled the more lush and green the countryside became, as we descended from the Little Karoo plateau down to the coastal plain. We joined the N2 just outside of George and the National Route hugs the coastline all the way to Knysna. It is very beautiful. Knysna itself is set on a lagoon. This is strictly an estuary, which flows out to sea between two craggy headlands called rather originally 'The Heads'! A long low bridge spans the Lagoon and all of at sudden you are in Knysna itself, a small town which was founded in1876 with a gold rush. This was short lived; logging and the timber industry took over, due to the proximity of thick woodland clothing the coastal mountainsides. Today, it is one of the most popular spots to visit in South Africa and the views from our bedroom windows will tell you why. Kanonkop Guest House is like no Guest House I have ever seen and is set high on a hill above the town. One wall of our enormous room is completely glass and I think I could sit and drink in the jaw dropping views of the lagoon for the duration of our visit.
    However, we are booked on a tour of the Featherbed Nature Reserve tomorrow so move I must!

    The Featherbed Nature Reserve is privately owned and a South African Heritage site. It captures the essence of Knysna as somewhere special and clothes the flanks of the Western Heads. The only access is by ferry. Numbers are limited and you must join a guided tour. The morning was warm and sunny as we boarded the ferry and we had a very informative journey, care of Andre our guide, as we crossed the lagoon. It is certainly the way to see the Knysna region, from the water and we had a birds eye view of ...well...birds (!) including the rare black oyster catcher. There are some glorious homes dotted amidst the vegetation of the hillsides lining the lagoon, at a price of course. On arrival at the Featherbed Centre you are transported on a 4x4 train to the top of the headland through the indigenous forest catching glimpses of the fabulous estuary from all directions. Once reaching the top the views are even better and it is difficult to know which way to look. The entrance to the lagoon through a very narrow channel through the heads is treacherous and graded as the most difficult entrance for shipping by the Royal Navy and uninsurable by Lloyds, so that tells you something! We then were taken on a 2.2 km bush walk almost all downhill, which as most of you will know was going to be a test for me. A year ago, I certainly couldn't have done it, but managed it with care today to my joy. We arrived on the beautiful shoreline to marvel at Mother Nature all over again, before walking the coastal path back to the centre to lunch in the shade of the milkwood trees. It has been a marvellous day and we would recommend it to anyone in this neck of the woods.
    We owe a great deal to Prof Smith; a chemist with a special interest in fish and the man responsible for the origin of this reserve. In 1938 he was called in to identify a strange looking fish trawled by a local fisherman. He was excited to realise that this was a living coelacanth, thought to be extinct for 70million years and to predate the dinosaurs. He eventually found another living specimen in 1952 and together with his wife devoted the rest of his life to not only their study, but fish in general. He wrote a very famous book and with the proceeds purchased the land that was to become The Featherbed Nature Reserve.
    As for the name; where on earth did it come from I hear you ask? This port, despite its access problems, was once the third busiest in South Africa and crews had an uncomfortable and dangerous journey to get here, buffeted by huge seas and storms. On arrival and after running the gauntlet of the harbour entrance they had their best nights sleep in many a long month and it was said to be "like sleeping in a featherbed!" On early naval charts the bay was called Featherbed Bay and so the tradition began and has stuck over the years.
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  • The Bitou River Valley towards the coast
    The view from our balconyThe Emily Moon HotelThe Restaurant and that view!The Bitou River Valley inland

    Plettenberg Bay

    18 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    South Cape DC, Western Cape, South Africa
    Monday, January 18, 2016

    It was a wrench to leave the fabulous Kanonkop Guest House in Knysna this morning, where we had been so beautifully looked after. We ate breakfast eyeing that amazing view over Knysna Lagoon and took a final walk around the stunning garden before setting off.
    It was a short journey to Plettenberg Bay, however, we stopped in the town to get haircuts - all this sun, good food and wine has resulted in luxuriant, unruly locks! Normal service is now resumed.
    The journey anywhere along the garden route is like travelling through .....well......a garden!
    Everything is lush and green and even now there are flowering plants everywhere. As you can imagine it is right up my alley. The background is always the coastal mountains clothed in natural forest, which is apparently wonderful to explore also, but perhaps another time.
    Our new abode is The Emily Moon boutique hotel, situated just out of Plettenberg Bay town, built on an elevated site above the meandering Bitou river. It is a river valley to warm the heart of any physical geographer! Oxbow lakes abound. We were shown to our River Lodge and yet again there was an indrawn breath at the view. Very different from Knysna, but equally beautiful in it's own way. In every direction is the glorious river valley, classic wetlands with accompanying bird life and all Is quiet apart from the birds themselves. Best of all there is a verandah to settle on and soak it all up. The decor is eclectic and a shabby chic fusion of touches from all over the continent of Africa.
    Dinner was taken at Emily's restaurant and it was heaving. Apparently, it is fully booked every night, as it is very popular locally and having tasted the food, we could see why. We do of course feel quite at home with 'Emily' as our hostess!
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  • Durban Marina
    Queen Victoria in the City CentreThe State Governmental SquareVictoria MarketThe spice alleySolanaceae Brunfelsia Pauciflora EximiaThe Botanic GardensWorld Cup StadiumThe iconic image as South Africa win the Rugby World Cup

    Durban

    22 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    South Cape DC, Western Cape, South Africa
    Friday, January 22, 2016

    It is a short flight from George to Durban, in Kwa-Zulu Natal. Natal was named by Vasco da Gama when he landed here on Christmas Eve 1497, calling it Terro do Natal - Christmas Country. Rolling hills are immediately evident on emerging from King Shaka Airport, but now clothed in grasses as opposed to fynbos. This area is known as The Midlands and we could instantly see how it acquired its English regional name.
    We are staying at The Oyster Box at Umhlanga, some twenty kilometres north of the city on the Indian Ocean. The hotel is old and full of tradition and when we arrived, you could have been forgiven for thinking that you had stepped back into the days of the Raj! The bellhops are dressed from head to toe in Indian dress complete with turban, there are belted jackets and pith helmets galore, the receptionists are in salwar kameez and there is a permanent curry buffet for lunch and dinner set up on the ocean terrace! True to it's name, on the immense breakfast buffet laid out in the Palm Court was a large silver salver of prepared oysters to help yourself to. It was a novel start to the day, but not to be missed. However, I did pass on the offer of a glass of champagne to go with it, This is of course a beautiful hotel and the opportunity for people watching is just fabulous. Take Mr Fox for instance, who we encountered at lunch, dinner and breakfast this morning, sometimes accompanied by a young thing, sometimes alone, but on every occasion by a bottle of wine and an ice bucket!! There are the usual young ladies of interesting dress sense, with a phone stitched to their ear and conducting their business at full volume, usually in a flat piercing monotone. Oh, I could go on and on! However, this morning we were to take a guided tour with Cyril, who is of Zulu ancestry and a mine of information. The City of Durban is the third largest in South Africa, and it's biggest sea port. Ships are anchored off shore, literally awaiting the green light from the control tower to enter the harbour. Pilots are ferried backwards and forwards by helicopter! Durban was named after a Cape Governor, one Benjamin D'Urban and began life slowly, fought over by the Zulu, Voortrekkers and the British and from the mid 1800s developed as the most important port in the British Empire, mainly for the huge export of sugar cane, that was and is grown in abundance in its hinterland. The Zulu refused to work in the fields and as a consequence Indians were imported for the task, hence the large Indian population in the city and the sub-continental influence. British soldiers poured through the city during the Zulu and Boer Wars, to fight their final campaign in their famous redcoats and to wage the first campaign in khaki, then a controversial move. Durban was also the home of Mahatma Ghandi at this time, when both he and Winston Churchill were involved with the Boer War. This is clearly a city of the British Empire, as can be seen from the many public buildings dating back to the 1800s. As is often the case, our ancestors erected buildings in the London classical style to remind them of home and to make the statement that the British were in charge. We drove the Golden Mile, which bears little resemblance to Blackpool, as it is a stunningly beautiful golden beach that stretches for mile after mile and is now available to all. In the days of apartheid, only one small section was open to Africans. Victoria Market was a shopping stop. It is a massive bazaar housed in a turn of the century building. The spice stalls were particularly interesting and we had a long chat with a young lady stall holder, tasting the spices and finding out about mixes favoured by the various ethnic groups. The Botanic Gardens were, as ever, a joy and we spent a lovely half hour wandering around with an iced coffee in hand. Approaching the tea garden we encountered a troupe of monkeys who took a distinct interest in our drinks. We knew not to encourage them, but before we could work out what to do, a large lady with an even larger water pistol came charging out of the undergrowth to the rescue and they scattered. "They are naughty boys" she announced " I chase them away for you!" Not too many would have stood their ground I can tell you! We finished in the high end residential district with its beautifully manicured properties and the Greyville Racecourse, Durban Golf Club and various Sporting Stadia. Cyril made a very telling statement regarding a very young democratic South Africa winning the Rugby World Cup in 1995.
    South Africa were the definite underdogs against New Zealand in the final and It was only a year after the first democratic elections. As you may recall, President Mandela, dressed in a South African rugby shirt, presented the trophy to Francois Pienaar, which they held aloft together. "Like everyone else, I was watching the game wherever I could and with friends. In my case it was with my boss and his family and our working family. When South Africa won everyone was overjoyed, we really felt the country had become one. My boss's wife threw her arms around me and gave me a hug. I was overcome. It was the first time a white woman had touched me, let alone hugged me!"
    As I said, a first class morning in every respect.
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  • The spectacular vista from our cabin verandah
    The farmhouse set on the lakeA weaver bird feeding its young in the nestQuotes from the Nelson Mandela Centre at HowickOur cabin on the rightthe beginning of a gournet breakfastA Full English like nothing I have ever seenCleopatra herself!

    The Drakensberg Mountains

    23 stycznia 2016, Lesotho ⋅ 8 °C

    South Cape DC, Western Cape, South Africa
    Saturday, January 23, 2016

    We collected another car this morning and headed north, passing Pietermaritzburg and turning off the motorway at Howick to take the scenic meandering Midlands route through the most beautiful countryside. If you had been told you were in England you might almost have taken it on board. The landscape is bigger and more majestic, but one can certainly see how 'The Midlands' came to be. Everything is very green and undulating with plentiful trees. This is mixed farming country. Geraldine and Reg, you would love it! The road twists and turns and there are small villages to explore and a variety of crafts on offer. The flowers were a particular joy to me, wild longiflorum lilies, eremurus, rare pink gladioli, stylosis lily, arum lilies and evening primrose to name but a few.
    The one stop we did make was at Howick Falls, the spot where Nelson Mandela was arrested in 1962. It is such a beautiful area and in a split second his life was changed forever. A new museum is in the process of being built and at the moment an exhibition is set up in a glorified shed! It was so impressive. We lingered for an hour taking it all in and came away with the the reinforced feeling that here was an exceptional man whose life somehow seemed to be guided by a hand that was not his own. His beginnings were humble as the youngest son of a tribal chief in the Transkei. A friend persuaded his very traditional principled father to allow his son to attend the local English Methodist Mission School. It was here that he was given the English name Nelson, his birth name being Rolihlahla, which means ' pulling the branch of a tree, or, the one who disturbs the established order'. Prophetic or what? There began a process that he would negotiate all the days of his life, bridging the gap between his traditional tribal roots and the modern world.
    Our continuing journey took us to a smaller more twisty road. We climbed up and up and there were potholes in the potholes. It had now started to rain hard and we began to wonder where on earth we would end up. Finally we spied the long awaited signpost 'Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse' and we turned on to a dirt track. Thank God for the 4x4. We climbed steadily for another 5kms, when incongruously there suddenly appeared a gateway set in a concrete wall and we had arrived. What a surprise awaited us. As we drew down the drive and parked in the covered cartshed a man materialised bearing a tray. He came to the car and opened my door. "Welcome, my name is Amen, would you like a drink of homemade lemonade?" proffering the tray and so began one of the most extraordinary evenings of our trip so far.
    The rain continued to fall and quickly we and the luggage were whisked to our Wild West themed cabin. There are 11 cabins/ suites here and they are all differently themed. We were thunderstruck, plus once more the view out on to the mountains had to be seen to be believed.
    "Come over to the house when you are ready for some refreshment" said our hostess, so we duly did as we were bid. We are surrounded by a beautiful garden, dripping at the moment to be sure, but lovely none the less, with the added bonus of the Drakensberg Mountains as a backdrop. We followed the directions to this amazing modern house set on a dammed lake. Weaver birds were flitting about, feeding their young in their nests hanging from the trees. Bulrushes fringed the edge and the whole effect was like something out of a film set. My eyes nearly popped out of my head and that was before we had seen the inside, which was equally mind blowing. Suitably refreshed, the dinner arrangements were explained. Here you eat in, as there is literally nowhere else to go. I would describe this establishment as a mountain gourmet's retreat. The dinner consists of five courses and you are taken through them one by one beforehand whilst sipping a pre dinner drinky. Masterchef eat your heart out, this is serious cheffing. The wine cellar is underground and you descend to select your preferred wine from a large selection. We ate this fabulous meal at a table overlooking the floodlit lake and it was a night to remember to say the least. As we left to return to the cabin, Phillippa, mine host said, " breakfast is relaxed, but culinarily serious. Arrive any time after 9 for a three course start to your day" (!!!!!!?) I'll fill you in tomorrow.

    I was up early for me (I know, shock horror). The morning was crystal clear and the views even more spectacular. Cleopatra herself was now clearly visible. She is a rock formation named by an English soldier far from home and missing his young wife. The farm has always been known as Cleopatra's farm ever since. I wanted to take a quiet walk around the property whilst all was ....well...quiet! The bird life is fantastic. I spent quite a while watching the weaver birds noisily feeding their chicks, when a flash of blue caught my eye. Perched to my right peering into the water was a kingfisher! He spied a fish, dived down and caught it and returned to eat it on his perch, right in front of me. What about that?! I can't get over it.
    Breakfast was yet again a culinary tour de force. Three small courses of pure heaven and the trouser waistband situation is becoming desperate. In one way we are disappointed that we are only here one night and in another relieved! This is the perfect spot for the wine group away weekend. Places to visit, walks galore, scenery to die for, plus food and wine to tempt an Egyptian mummy. Anyone up for it?
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  • The ever present Drakensberg loom in the distance all the way
    Peter on the 'Churchill's cabin verandahSpioenkop from the Cabin

    Three Tree Hill Lodge

    24 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    Indlovu DC, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Sunday, January 24, 2016

    Today was another travelling day and we made our way further north, with the Drakensberg Mountains forever looming in the background. The vistas are so vast that I couldn't seriously capture them on my camera, but take my word for it, spectacular. Eventually, yet again we turned off the tar road and drove up and up until it didn't seem there could be anywhere else to go, before our home for the next two nights came into view. This is Three Tree Hill Lodge. Once more we are in a cabin, named Churchills, this time perched high on the hill overlooking Spioenkop itself and the Lodge's private game reserve around it. I probably don't have to tell you the views are again fantastic. In truth I'm running out of superlatives, so excuse me if I have to keep repeating myself. Heavy duty binoculars are provided and we have already espied animals galore. Tomorrow we are going to take a closer look at both the reserve and Spioenkop.
    Dinner is taken at the main lodge with the other guests. The menu looks good, but not quite the epicurean fantasy of yesterday, which is probably just as well!. All is quiet as I tap away to you on the verandah, apart from the breeze and the call of the birds.
    I wonder what delights tomorrow will bring?
    I'll keep you posted, but no internet connection at the moment, so will send this to you when I can.
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  • The trenches and mass graves on Spioenkop
    Simon Blackburn in full flow!The sentinel cypress and its poignant graveWalking Three Tree Hill Reserve

    Spioenkop

    25 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    (South) Umzinyathi DC, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Monday, January 25, 2016

    I think it is fair to say the circumstances surrounding the Boer War were not our Nations finest hour. When war was finally declared, the might of the British Army were challenged by at most 20,000 Boers; farmers, who I think it is fair to say the British dismissed with a degree of arrogance. What they underestimated was that these men were tough, born to the saddle and hunting marksmen from a young age. This was not to be formal squared, fixed bayonet warfare. The Boers developed the first example of a commando style conflict which the professional British Army was ill equipped to counter.
    The drive to Spioenkop from the lodge takes about 45 mins and a dirt road winds it's way up to the summit. There are Zulu villages all around and it is usual to acknowledge anyone you pass, as they will you. Goats, cattle and people roam freely across the roads, so between avoiding all of them plus the potholes, driving requires more concentration than normal!
    Spioenkop rises dramatically from the surrounding countryside and is flanked by several lower hills that played a significant part in the battle and it's outcome. Iron rich, red sedimentary rock predominates the region with igneous extrusions, often basalt. This rock being much harder to erode, has resulted in hills like Spioenkop, with steep sides and a flat top. The British Empire had already been engaged in colonial South Africa some 20 years earlier against the Zulus and should have known some of the pitfalls that fighting in this country produced. Earlier on during the Anglo Boer War the British were heavily defeated at the battle of Majura trying to hold just such a hill. The lessons that should have been learnt from this encounter were seemingly ignored and General Redvers Buller and his command committed more men to an almost certain death by attempting a repeat performance, as part of the attempt to relieve the siege at nearby Ladysmith. In the early hours of January 24 1900, three Lancashire regiments scaled the mountain, which would have been no small task in the dark. They were burdened by a heavy uniform and greatcoat and had to carry all their supplies. Only one small bottle of water was allowed per man, which in the heat of summer on a South African exposed mountain top proved disastrous. There was a thick mist when the men staggered on to the summit and their commander Major-General Edward Woodgate and his officers attempted to arrange their battle lines with use of a compass, which proved inaccurate, because of the presence of so much iron in the rock. Consequently, when dawn broke and the mist lifted, there must have been a collective gasp, on the realisation that they were ill placed and surrounded by The Boer with their far superior weaponry, positioned on the surrounding lower hills. The battle that raged all day resulted in carnage for the young Lancashire soldiers crouching in their shallow trenches on the hill top. Simon Blackburn our guide, who owns Three Tree Hill, is a brilliant raconteur and held us spellbound as he walked us through the battle lines, pointing out the position of all the participants and my blood ran cold at what those boys had to endure. One can only imagine what the young Lancashire fusiliers (having come from the grey, damp, cramped conditions of Victorian industrial Lancashire) must have thought as they marched through this imposing majestic landscape. To die like animals outgunned and picked off by weapons sold by the British and Germans to the Boer, seems doubly galling. There are massed graves marking the trenches where they fell and individual memorial stones erected later by some families. The simple head stone that reduced me to tears and would any mother I suspect, was placed there by a mother who finally managed to visit the site of her son's death some 8 years later. She had carefully nurtured and brought from their garden a small cypress sapling and planted it in this foreign field that would be forever England, in memory of her beloved son. Against the odds it has thrived and now stands tall and proud, a fitting memorial for those 124 men who perished that day alongside her boy.
    This battle has always been portrayed as a desperate defeat for the British Army, but in truth it was a stalemate . At the end of the day both sides retreated having believed they had lost. It was only the next morning when the Boers suddenly realised that their enemy had withdrawn, that they ascended Spioenkop once more and unexpectedly claimed the victory. It was a fascinating and gruelling visit in some ways and just the beginning of our battlefield exploration.
    Incidentally, many of the young soldiers hailed from Liverpool and its environs. The Kop at Anfield was originally called Spioenkop in memory of their lost sons, before being nicknamed simply The Kop. A steep hillside that takes no prisoners .
    Later in the day we took a game walk in the reserve, with Simon, attempting to see the white Rhino. It is grassland and acacia trees predominantly, which really enhances that Out of Africa feel. This reserve is particularly well known for the Rhino and I had spotted several from our verandah through the binoculars. It was a special thrill, however, to walk to within 500 yds of three of them, including a mother and calf. They are huge and give a whole new meaning to the phrase 'does my bum look big in this!' I will never complain again.
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  • Fugitive's Drift Reserve from our verandah
    The LibraryThe table set for lunch on the TerraceThe Buffalo River Gorge from the terrace

    Fugititive's Drift

    26 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    (South) Umzinyathi DC, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Tuesday, January 26, 2016

    The journey from Three Tree Hill takes approximately 3 hours, via Ladysmith. The last 30 miles are off road and the scenery increasingly dramatic. We arrived here at Fugitive's Drift in time for lunch, to discover a series of beautifully appointed cabins on the lip of the Buffalo River Gorge, within the Fugitive's Drift Game Reserve. This is the life and work of the Rattray family, in particular the late David and his wife Nicky. She and their family continue David's work of training, developing and rebuilding the relationship between English speaking people and the Zulu of Northern Kwa-Zulu Natal. David was a renowned authority and lecturer on the Anglo Zulu wars having considerable exposure to the area and its people since childhood.
    Close by the reserve lie the battlefields of Isandlwana and Rorkes Drift and gradually over the years a ground breaking destination has been built up around tours of the area and its history, particularly military. Over 20,000 visitors a year wing their way to this remote part of South Africa for the experience and that is exactly what we have done ourselves.
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  • The battlefield and Isandlwana crag
    Cairns marking the fallenwild verbena amongst the gravesMph'wa at the Zulu memorialThe approach to Lt Melville and Coghills' graveBuried where they fell

    Isandlwana

    27 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    (South) Umzinyathi DC, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Wednesday, January 27, 2016

    We departed for Isandlwana at 7.30 sharp this morning. A wake up call and a pot of coffee was delivered to the cabin at 6am, which was a kind thought-I think!
    It was a beautiful sunny morning, as indeed it was on the morning of the 22nd January 1879 and that fatal confrontation between the men of the 24th Regiment of Foot and 20,000 Zulu warriors. The British central column under the command of Lord Chelmsford had crossed the Buffalo River into Zulu land at its natural fording point, Rorkes Drift (drift meaning exactly that, a river crossing), with the intention of meeting the Zulu in battle and subjugating their nation to British rule. This was something the proud Zulu were understandably opposed to. Lord Chelmsford had selected a vast and beautiful plain beneath the crag, that came to be known as Isandlwana, as his vantage point and his men, some 850 white tents, their wagons, horses, oxen and equipment were strewn about the camp, covering a considerable area. The Zulu proved elusive and on that fateful morning Lord Chelmsford took his senior officers and most of the troops into the adjoining valley looking for the Zulu army, leaving some 1400 men under the command of an inexperienced officer, Major Pullaine. Mistakes were made, no lookouts posted and by chance a small contingent of men discovered the might of the Zulu army in completely the opposite direction. They were settled in a gorge awaiting the opportunity to attack, once the anticipated eclipse of the moon had passed ( Day of the Dead Moon-a bad omen). The small group of soldiers made an attempt to attack before fleeing when faced with the enormity of the task. The 24th Regiment of Foot were ill prepared for the battle that then ensued. These men, drawn largely from South Wales, were a courageous, tight, fighting unit, but were completely overwhelmed by a massive attacking force of 6ft warriors, fleet of foot and carefully drilled on their plan of attack. The thundering of their drumming bare feet, thumping of their shields and bloodcurdling war cries must have struck terror into the men lined up to face them. It was total chaos, as is the way of war. Despite great valour and fierce resistance, the camp was overrun and the Zulu took no prisoners. They were fighting for their very identity and were and are an honourable people, completely sold down the river by the local representatives of the British Empire,
    1329 soldiers were cut down that day by a force of warriors 20,000 strong. Just 55 escaped down the Fugitive's trail back to the river which had to be crossed in full speight. The Zulu proved to be a formidable enemy. Many Zulu warriors had jogged bare footed 100kms to reach the battlefield, another 15 kms during the battle and at the end were still strong enough and fast enough to overtake and kill a British soldier on horseback. When it became clear that all was lost and the retreat sounded, only those on horseback stood any chance of avoiding the Zulu spears or assegai. One of Major Pullaine's final tasks was to call the adjutant Lt Meville to him and order him to save the Queen's colour, the most sacred regimental object. They saluted and Melville took the heavy 20' colour in its leather case and rode for the river. Miraculously, amidst the melee, he reached it and was assessing where to cross when a lone Zulu appeared from hiding and speared his horse from under him. The horse, Melville and the colour all ended up in the fast flowing Buffalo river, being buffeted from rock to rock. Somehow, Melville managed to hold on to the colour and as he approached a coffin shaped rock he espied a NCC officer marooned on its top. Melville yelled to him to catch hold of the colour, hoping he could pull him out, but the two of them plus the colour ended up in the water, under heavy attack from the Zulus on the bank. They were swept downstream and were in a desperate situation, when Lt Coghill spotted them from the Natal bank. Coghill was a superb horseman and despite a badly sprained knee, (he could not mount his horse unaided or walk) had forded the river and now without a thought for his personal safety, plunged his horse back into the river to help the two men floundering in the water, with the colour. As he reached them, his horse was shot between the eyes by a Zulu wielding a British Martini rifle. Somehow they managed to reach the Natal bank and what they thought was relative safety, but in the strong current the heavy colour was wrenched from their grasp and carried downstream. Exhausted they dragged themselves up the bank and Higginson the Natal officer, who was in the best state, said he would try to find some loose horses. In truth he abandoned Melville and Coghill to their fate. Melville managed to carry Coghill up the steep bank to a rocky outcrop where they rested until they were found by a group of Zulus skirmishing on the Natal bank. Despite a fierce fight, the two brave soldiers were killed. They were found four days later, by a party sent out from Rorke's Drift to try and retrieve the colour and were buried where they lay, on land now belonging to Fugitive's Drift. Some years later, they were awarded the first posthumous VCs by Edward V11, as his mother Queen Victoria would only present a VC to the living. The colour was indeed found stuck in the rocks further downstream and returned in great triumph to what was left of the regiment at Rorke's Drift.
    We were taken to Isandlwana by Mph'wa Ntabzi, a Zulu whose great grandfather and grandfather fought and fell in the battle and he told the story with emotion, detail and passion. He was a great friend of David Rattray and it was clearly very hard to do this in his place. Later in the afternoon we walked to the graves of Lts Melville and Coghill, accompanied by Andrew, a young officer from The Welsh Regiment, which the 24th foot has been incorporated into. They have a very strong relationship with Fugitive's Drift and regularly send out a representative to experience at first hand one of the regiment's most difficult campaigns. Andrew was able to add some interesting additional facts from the regimental archive and obviously to look at the actions that day from a professional soldier's point of view.
    I cannot tell you how powerful these visits were today and we still have Rorke's Drift to come tomorrow. I feel rung out emotionally, when I think what these young soldiers went through so many miles from home to die in the most horrific circumstances and with the utmost bravery.
    Imagine the reaction of Lord Chelmsford when he returned to Isandlwana some hours later. The decimated camp was knee deep in bodies of men and animals. There were no survivors beyond the 55 fugitives who made it across the Buffalo river back towards Rorke's Drift. The Zulu had removed their 3,500 dead on shields to their villages for burial and had ritually disembowelled their victims, as is their custom, to allow their spirit to escape and roam free...........RIP.
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  • The Rorke's Drift crossing of the Buffalo River
    The rebuilt mission hospital minus the thatched roofThe chapel and store with the hill behind

    Rorke's Drift

    28 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    North Uthungulu, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Thursday, January 28, 2016

    Later the same day, came the second devastating attack. The right horn of the Zulu battleplan, did not engage in the fighting at Isandlwana. I should explain that the Zulu like to attack in a buffalo formation, with a central head and chest and left and right horns to envelop the enemy preventing escape. In this case the right horn failed to close sufficiently, hence allowing the 55 to flee to the river. It should also be explained that in Zulu culture only single men are allowed to fight and until they have bathed their spear (assegai)) in enemy blood they are unable to marry. As a consequence this section of Zulus were champing at the bit to prove themselves and so their leader disobeyed the King's orders and crossed the Buffalo river with the intention of attacking the small hospital garrison remaining at Rorke's Drift.
    At the time, Rorke's Drift consisted of a small white painted missionary station and large separate church/store house and kraal, which Lord Chelmsford had requisitioned as a field hospital and storage for ammunition, large sacks of melee flour, the dreaded Army biscuits that were the soldiers staple food, ( cardboard consistency I understand, wet, dry, hot or cold!), bully beef, plus other essentials. As a consequence there were less than 100 fighting men, several of whom were already injured, some very seriously ill men, with two field officers, the engineer Lt Chard, Lt Bromhead and a very experienced commissariat of stores James Dalton, (who quickly helped develop a plan of defence). Perhaps understandably, none of the 55 escapees headed to the mission to help, but one did send a message to say that the Zulus were crossing the river and to be ready!!
    The men of Rorke's Drift faced an impossible position with 4500 Zulu warriors bearing down on them and somehow managed to erect defences around their tiny pocket battlefield using melee bags and biscuit tins to a height of 8ft. One thing they did have of course, was a massive store of ammunition, some 27,000 rounds. By the time the fighting was over, there were only 660 rounds left!
    We walked around the mission building that was rebuilt virtually identically afterwards, except there are now many more doors and windows. Even so, they are tiny, hot, claustrophobic rooms even without the stench of disease and death. It became all too apparent how impossible a trap the men inside were caught in as the battle progressed and the men's courage and resolve in the face of overwhelming odds reduced me to tears.
    The Zulu gathered on the hill behind the station late in the afternoon and began their battle preparation of war cries, foot stamping and shield thumping, working themselves into a frenzy. Colour Sergeant Bourne walked to every man with a hand on their shoulder exhorting them to 'Mark your man and wait until you see the whites of their eyes!' The Padre George Smith would not shoot being a man of God, but continually supplied the ammunition with the cry 'Don't swear boys, for Gods sake don't swear, just shoot!' Chard and Bromhead positioned themselves to lead their men and they waited. Eventually the Zulus threw themselves down the hill on to the barricades and were shot down by the score. The men of the 24th foot grimly defended their position as best they could. Lt Bromhead led bayonet charge after bayonet charge, but gradually the outer defences were breached and they were beaten back to the second line of defence and their battlefield was no bigger than a tennis court. Night fell quickly, as it does in these parts and now they could not even see their enemy. Enter stage left a little terrier called Pip. One of the fallen officers at Isandlwana had left him in the care of the surgeon Major Reynolds and he raced up and down the line barking at the next Zulu to hurl himself at the barricade. The line held. However, the Zulu had managed to set fire to the thatched roof of the mission and did finally break into the courtyard. The soldiers had to retreat to the small section around the kraal where a third line of defence had been constructed and carried on fighting. The hospital now stood alone with the exception of the few brave orderlies and the heroic cook who fought the Zulu from room to room dragging their charges through holes hacked in the wall to one corner of the building. Men died under horrific circumstances on both sides. The thatch was now on fire, so smoke was an additional factor, but at least there was a little light! A tiny window 8' off the ground was enlarged by Pte Hook (the cook) and two badly injured soldiers rushed from the kraal to catch the seriously ill soldiers as they were dropped from the window. They then carried them to the kraal time and time again under continual attack, before Hook the last man escaped the building. His fingers were now worn down to the bone, his finger tips never to recover. The fight retreated to the area around the kraal.
    The martini rifle is heavy with a kick like a mule and these small men (there was not one over 5'4") had been firing and reloading continuously for hours. The barrels were red hot and glowed in the dark according to Zulu reports and the men's hands and faces were burned with the recoil. They tore the pockets off their red tunics to enable them to continue firing and still the Zulu threw themselves forward. Bear in mind that the temperature was 45 degrees during the day and had dropped little at night and these men, in Army tradition, had donned their wool uniform to fight. There would have been no time for a gulp of water either if they wanted to survive. All this time their small wiry little surgeon was treating the wounded in the open against the wall of the storehouse, which afforded him a small degree of shelter. This is the first example of a surgeon operating on the battlefield and of course he had virtually no supplies.
    As dawn starts to break, all of a sudden the Zulu fall silent. Their scouts could see Lord Chelmsford's relief column approaching in the distance. Lt Chard orders his men to stop firing and they watch silently as the Zulu gather as many of their dead as they can and melt away into the hills, with respect on both sides. When Chelmsford's men reached the the defenders of Rorke's Drift these gallant soldiers had no voice left to cheer.
    There were 11 VCs awarded that day, the most ever in a single battle and that is of course not counting those of Lts Melville and Coghill. This was a fight to the death and it would do us good to reflect on the immense bravery on both sides.
    We were taken on this visit by Douglas Rattray, one of David's sons and I think it is fair to say he is clearly a chip off the old block. He led us around the battle site and made the actions of that day come alive almost 137 years later. It was an intensely emotional afternoon both for Doug and us, his horribly enthralled audience. It is virtually 9 years to the day since his father was murdered by thieves in front of his wife Nicky and we all had need of the handkerchieves by the end; the ladies openly and the gentleman more surreptitiously.
    In keeping with family tradition, Doug is a first class lecturer and human being.
    This is a visit and experience that will live with us for the rest of our lives.
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  • The Vlei from our dining table
    The Dining Room at the Main Lodge!Our Lodge at Phinda, verandah and plunge poolPeter catching up with the news!View from the verandahWildlife is all aroundAnd visitors are always welcome!Dusk falls sharply in this part of the world

    On the way to Phinda

    29 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    North Uthungulu, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Friday, January 29, 2016

    Today is our longest and last travelling day from Fugitive's Drift up in the north of Kwa-Zulu Natal to the Phinda Game Reserve, on the coast not far from the Mozambique border. It took us exactly 6 hours as expected.
    We were sad to say goodbye to Fugitive's Drift which had been simply fabulous, but knew that our last port of call would be more of the same, but with a different emphasis.
    The drive was stunning. I cannot describe the magnificent scenery that we passed through on our way down to the coast to pick up the N2. This region is a real gem for several reasons and somewhat overlooked I feel.
    Eventually we approached Phinda and if we thought our off road antics had been testing before, this was no different . We were eventually reduced down to sand tracks as we neared the lodge itself. Two large Nyala antelope jumped across the track. 'What the .... !' Exclaims the driver. Just you wait!!
    This place is magical. We are in a small individual lodge to ourselves, with a deck and plunge pool and there are just 6 lodges. We missed the afternoon game drive , but we're glad of the opportunity to settle in and phoned for our escort to dinner at 7pm. After dark, no one walks about unescorted! We had a very good dinner on the verandah open to the stars. Our cook is called Happiness and is exactly what that may imply, with food in mind! After a while I was aware of being watched and looking down there was a genet, a small cat with enormous eyes. She was hopeful of some food, but was of course unlucky.
    It could have been worse, apparently the night before, 2 lions came to take a look and settled themselves down for a snooze.
    Our first game drive is tomorrow at 5.30 am! Overnight security gives you a ring at 5am.
    Yes you heard -God help me!
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  • Hippo at the water hole
    Giraffe a plenty!Black Rhino at the water holeSetting up mid morning breakMale Lion - dosing in the shade, as is their habit!Cubs at about 8 months oldInjured Elephant, the flying vet had to be brought inTime for a sundowner

    Game Drive Day 1

    30 stycznia 2016, Afryka Południowa

    North Uthungulu, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Saturday, January 30, 2016

    The five o'clock wake up call was as bad as expected, but it was worth it. What a morning we've had. You clamber into an open top jeep with your guide (Dylan in our case ) and Mt T the tracker, who sits on the front of the jeep. I realise he knows what he's looking for, but boy what he can see is amazing. Dylan wanted to head south, as he had heard that a cheetah family was about and wanted to check it out. So it is more of the sand tracks, up and down and as you travel further south the landscape changes and opens out. The soil is redder and it becomes more savannah like. There is a severe drought all over South Africa at the moment, so the water holes are down or in some cases completely dry, which is a concern. However we did come upon a large one which had hippo, black rhino, crocodiles, a pied kingfisher and a pair of fish Eagles, so a good start! There were giraffe a plenty. They are so elegant and with eyelashes to die for. Then it was off to track the cheetah family, which we eventually ran to ground. A mother and three cubs aged about 8 months. They were stunning and made my day.
    By 10am we were back and had had breakfast and felt it was time for bed! Your time is then your own, apart from lunch -more food! I sat quietly outside on the deck catching up with the blog, whilst Peter dealt with the hire car. There were little birds drinking and having a bath on the ledge of the plunge pool. I was entranced. Up came some large male Nyala to drink from the trough at the bottom of the pool. They fixed me with a look and then carried on. I was entranced all over again. A family of monkeys appeared to play on the side deck and at the back of the house were more Nyala and a family of Warthogs, including 6 babies. I just didn't know where to look. Did I need to get up at 5am I asked myself?
    The afternoon game drive starts around 4.30 and we saw a martial and a snake eagle, a beautiful little iridescent Pygmy kingfisher, zebra, more giraffe and a pride of lions dozing in the shade. What a sight they were. Dylan drove so close and they didn't bat an eyelid, well they did actually, but not with any mall intent. Our final treat was elephant, three of them, plus an African white faced owl on the way back after dark. Sundowners were taken as the sun sets and we were back at the lodge around 8pm. What a day!
    One thing to remember if you are a woman of mature years on a game drive. It is impossible to look anything other than the wild witch from the west. You are rattling along in a open top jeep, the wind whistling through your hair, so bad hair day for a start. You are shiny from liberal applications of sun cream and if you put your hat on you appear as a squashed wild witch of the west! Finally, all over beige or mud colours does nothing for us. It may prevent you from being eaten, but is that of any consolation I ask myself?
    On our return this evening, our hostess had a surprise for us. She had set up a romantic dinner for two on each deck- great! I suppose we must forgive her, she is young. So there we were Peter, I and the family of warthogs snoring in the bushes, plus the nipping insects of course. We walloped down a couple of courses, passed on desert and headed for bed, bearing in mind the 5am alarm call. What on earth can tomorrow bring?!
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