D3 - Mooching, market, Ministry of Crab

Wednesday 6th March - Mooching, market, Ministry of Crab
09:30
Wow. That was some sleep. Including my afternoon nap yesterday, I’ve had around 14 hours, which I take as a sign that I was knackered and needed it. I woke up around 02:00, and was awake for a little while - but happily managed to doze off again before my brain started ticking over. I don’t really have a much of a plan today. I’m on a walking tour this afternoon, but have a morning of mooching ahead of then. I find I’m not in a hurry though. Not hungry, so don’t need to head out for breakfast. Could do with a coffee though. Back soon.

18:00
The temperature is 32C, and humidity is in the late 70s. I am one hot motherfucker. This afternoon’s walking tour has been fascinating - a great insight into some of the history, architecture and culture of Colombo. There’s a lot of colonial architecture still standing, some of it in much better nick than others. Also worth remembering that ‘colonial’ for Sri Lankans starting in the 16th century with the Portuguese colonising, following by the Dutch, who were booted out by the British in the mid 1800s. What’s staggering is that each consecutive colonising nation basically tore down everything the preceding invader had done, and started again. There’s very little evidence of the Dutch influence, even less of the Portuguese. The Brits turned up, decided they could do it better, and started over.

We stop for a cup of tea (and a cool down) at the Grand Oriental Hotel. This old dame of the orient dates back some 170 years, and is frankly showing her age. That said, the tea is lovely, and the views from the rooftop bar are pretty cool. From there, we head down to Pettah Market, the bustling hub of commerce in the city. It’s manic in the best possible way. We spot a great bit of road rage occurring in front of us, when a truck driver nearly runs a tuk-tuk off the road. The two drivers exit their vehicles, and are really going for it - proper slanging match. No violence ensues, but I suspect at least one of them has been called a sisterfucker. We walk past the Apple store - same logo and everything, except this one sells… *checks notes* women’s underwear. Meandering through the Pettah food market, I’m struck by a couple of things:

a) The produce here is much smaller than in the UK. There are pumpkins the size of tennis balls, onions the size of ping pong balls, and daikon the size of small carrots
b) The baggies in which pre-ground spices are sold are almost exactly the same as those that drug mules seem to swallow before boarding their flight.

There’s a very striking mosque in the market, built in the early 20th century. Our guide, Navindra, tells us that the stonemason who built it came to see it for the first time after it was completed, but was run down and killed two streets away. After a few hours, Navindra leaves us near Fort Station, and I make the sticky walk back towards my hotel.

21:30
I have an urgent and cold shower, and head out for a beer. I find a cool little place near the Dutch Hospital, which has a Sri Lanka cricket game playing on the TV. The bar is quite raucous. I chat to one of the bartenders for a while. He’s visited the UK, and spent a couple of days in Brighton while he was there, so we have lots to talk about. I could quite easily put down roots here, but must go, as I have a dinner reservation at Ministry of Crab. Shit name, great restaurant. They specialise in…. Really? Crabs come in many different sizes, as do the giant freshwater prawns they have available. The food is mindbogglingly good. Mine is cooked with black pepper, chilli and garlic. It’s the best crab I’ve ever eaten. The garlic rice served with it is highly addictive. I treat myself to a glass of wine (well, a couple actually) to wash it down. It’s a brilliant meal. Not cheap, but good shellfish never is.

Tomorrow is moving day, and I find myself reflecting on a couple of days in Colombo. I’m not desperately sad to be leaving for the South coast. I think that’s partly the oppressive weather conditions, but also that I’m just not the biggest fan of big subcontinental cities. I’m excited to visit the smaller towns and rural outposts around Sri Lanka, that I suspect will give me a much better insight into the character and culture of this beautiful island. I’m back in Colombo for an overnight stop before flying home, so will be interesting to see what my take is on second viewing…Read more