Day 29 - Matheran = Surprisingly Hilly.

10:00
I took a Zopiclone last night, to ensure a good night’s sleep. It worked - to an extent. I’m deep in my sleep, until woken by a very loud doorbell just after 08:00. I pad to my door, and am met by a very enthusiastic chap who tells me it’s time for breakfast. Now, I know that breakfast is served between 08:00 and 10:00, so knocking me up moments after breakfast has started is pretty much a sackable offence. I clearly have a scowl on my face, as the chap looks a little crestfallen. Guilt ridden, I throw some clothes on and head for breakfast.

It’s served in a very pretty little courtyard by the swimming pool. There are 3 tables laid, and I suspect that reflects the incredibly low level of occupancy at the resort at the moment. It’s definitely not peak season, and I have to remind myself that I’m staying Monday and Tuesday nights, which are unlikely to be rush hour. The 08:00 unrequested alarm call makes sense now. I highly suspect that the service team are hoping to get everyone served ASAP - whether to crack on with other tasks, or take some time off, I’ll leave to you to judge.

Breakfast is unlike anything I've had on this trip, but redolent of breakfasts I’ve experienced on previous journeys, particularly when I’m further off the beaten tourist path. It starts slowly, but food continues to emerge from the kitchen until I have to request, beg that no more is brought. I start with a small bowl each of a tasty dhal, and an aubergine and yoghurt based concoction. Both very tasty. I’m given a chapati, a paratha, and a bready concoction, the name of which I couldn’t even begin to tell. I think there’s some coconut in there, but beyond that I’m clueless. As I finish the one that’s on my plate, the next one is immediately placed down. I’ve a mouthful of food, so can’t even decline. While he’s there, the guy decides that I need another paratha, and another chapati - just in case, like.

I finish the dhal and yogurt thing, and assume this means I’m done. Noooooo. First, the increasingly excited chap tries to offer me more of each. Not one to be done twice by the same ruse, my mouth is clear, and I quickly (but politely) say no. Next, I’m brought papads, some mint and coriander chutney, and some lime pickle. All delicious, but also rather unnecessary. I manage a couple of the papads, just to show willing. Surely that’s it now?

Nooooo. A big bowl of watermelon slices are presented to me. I wish I’d known about these before. I LOVE watermelon, and would happily have polished off the lot. As it stands, I manage a few slices, before pushing the plate away from me, feeling ever more like Monty Python’s Mr Creosote. A final platter emerges. I use the word platter to distinguish it from a plate, because a platter’s bigger, right? There’s yet more bread on it, toasted this time, and served with butter and jam. Now, I’m of the generation of British kids that didn’t leave food on the plate, so my instincts, my very DNA is telling me that I have to eat everything presented in front of me, whether I asked for it or not. The reality is that I just can’t fit much more in. I have a piece of toast, because I feel I’d be being incredibly rude if I didn’t. But I BEG the guy not to bring any more food. I don’t know if they were planning to, but I want to get ahead of the game…

The combination of Zoplicone and too much food takes me down. Back at my room, I can’t not have a nap….

16:44
I sleep for just over an hour, and then spring into something resembling action. Matheran has some great hiking opportunities to view points across the valleys that run down from the mountain. It’s noticeably cooler than at sea-level, but the sun is still warm and strong.

I head out a little before 12:00, initially heading for the enigmatically named All is Well Khandala Viewpoint Café. The views are stunning, and I suspect would be even moreso if the heavy haze that sits across the valley were to dissipate. I’m unsure whether this is due to wildfires (of which there are many in the surrounding area) or a general pollution haze, or maybe even both.

The town of Matheran is known as a hill station - a generic term applied to holiday towns that are (surprise surprise…) found at the top of hills. Their popularity is based largely around the ability of Indians to depart the steamy Summer in coastal cities, and head for cooler conditions in the mountains. This may come as something of a shock to you, but my hikes prove to be quite a lot hillier than I’d anticipated. To reach Echo Point, I walk for 25 minutes into the forest, and the path undulates more than just a touch. Most visitors are making the journey on horseback, but I’m stupidly determined to stick to movement on foot.

The views along my hike are again beautiful, but hazy. At one point I’m attacked (I’m not kidding) by a couple of monkeys. I think they’re attracted to the straps on the back of my rucksack. They keep jumping up behind me and trying to grab onto my bag. I quickly learn that the universal cat command of ‘psssssht!’ does not work on monkeys. Neither, sadly, does a stern ‘NO’ that I would use for a dog. Exasperated, I deliver a swift ‘Bhaad mein jao’ and this has a little more effect. They follow me for a couple of hundred metres, looking increasingly grumpy.

The sun is getting warmer. It’s up around 30C today, and I’ve walked about 6km. I definitely deserve a sharpener. There’s a bar in town, and I plonk myself in a booth. It’s the most stereotypically idiosyncratic Indian bar I can remember visiting - in that it’s entirely like every other Indian locals bar I’ve encountered off the tourist trail, but the individual characters I meet are unique. I spend a very happy couple of hours, day-drinking with gap-toothed locals. Our shared language map is not significant, but we form a bond over a fondness for beer, and a strong belief that a well structured forward defensive stroke is a thing of absolutely wonder.

Time’s getting on, and I want to rest up a little before heading out for an evening hike to a sunset spot. Maybe just a quick nap?

22:30
What a fun / odd afternoon and evening!

I head out around 17:30, conscious that I’m quite a bit further North than Goa, and sunset will be that much earlier. I’m heading for Lord’s Point, an acclaimed sunset viewpoint. I’m quickly conscious that I’m walking almost entirely downhill. I’m no idiot, and I’m fully aware that for every step downhill, there’ll be one uphill in return. After 10 minutes of clambering down some fairly steep gradients, I consider turning back. I have a quick word with myself, and head onwards.

It takes me pretty much a half hour to reach Lord’s Point, and the view is incredible, if once again a little hazy. I won’t see the sun get anywhere near the horizon, as there’s a fucking great mountain in the way, but it’s very pretty to look at.

I start the march back uphill. It’s tough going. I stop a few times, ostensibly to take a photo, but actually to rest and gulp some water. The return journey is markedly longer than the downwards version, and when I reach Matheran, I feel fairly smug about my achievement. I’ve done over 18,000 steps today, and the vast majority feel like they’ve been up or downhill.

I reason with myself that I definitely deserve a beer, so head back to Pramod, scene of my afternoon fun. I’m welcomed back like an intrepid explorer, and am quickly wrapped up in the conversation of the bar. I don’t understand any of it, but it’s fun to be included. I’m slightly shocked when some actual white people walk in. They’re the first non-Indian faces I’ve seen since leaving my accommodation in Morjim early yesterday morning. I somehow get conned into ordering 3 large Kingfishers, at which point the bifta starts getting passed around. Oh dear…

Whether coincidental or not, I can’t say - but I suddenly realise I’m acutely hungry. I’ve not had any food since my admittedly gargantuan breakfast, and I’ve done some moderate hiking since then. My guesthouse is apparently known for their food offerings, so I figure I’ll try there.

The dining room team seem a little taken aback when I tell them I’d like some dinner. It’s about 20:30, and dinner is allegedly served between 20:00 and 22:00. They hand me a menu (of sorts) which is not in English. I *think* it’s Hindi, but couldn’t swear to it. I stand no chance. I ask what’s good, and am directed to something that I neither properly hear, not understand. I agree.

The team set up a table for me in the courtyard, and then stand next to me. Not near me; next to me. They’re surreptitiously trying to take selfies with me in them. I ask if they’d like to take a proper photo, and they jump at the chance. Several times in fact. This town is full of drunks and lunatics. I suspect if I spent much more time here, I might get elected their leader.

When my food arrives, it is some fried rice with some interesting looking balls. Yes - I briefly consider whether they are ball balls, but a quick Google tells me that the hotel only serve pure-veg (i.e. vegan) food. The balls are good! I think there’s some minced cauliflower in there, a ton of fresh ginger, quite a bit of chilli, and some onion, along with some spices. It’s served in a sauce with some of the same flavours, and I think some cardamom. Alongside is a perfectly serviceable fried rice. After the beers I’ve had, it’s just a great way to soak up some of the booze. I finish eating around 21:30, and realise that most of the team has already fucked off. I think the low season / low occupancy combo means that they’ll take every bit of down time that they can.

I’m not mean-spirited, so quickly settle my bill, pad back to my room, and collapse in a heap on my bed. I’ve earnt my sleep tonight, for sure…Okumaya devam et