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- tiistai 7. tammikuuta 2025 klo 14.33
- ⛅ 5 °C
- Korkeus: 12 m
EnglantiHeathrow Terminal 251°28’7” N 0°26’53” W
Day 1 - I've been here before.

14:00
Are you bored yet? I’m definitely not. And yet, and yet - this is the last planned trip of my sabbatical. A cause for sadness, and yet one for joy. I’ve travelled to India perhaps 5-6 times, but most of those have been trips to Goa, with very little exploration of the huge country beyond. Only once, in 2007, have I travelled more widely. That trip was an eye-opener in so many ways. It was, first and foremost, the first time I ‘travelled’ as opposed to holidaying. Low budget, throw some clothes in a rucksack, see where you end up sort of territory. It told me that (then) I could get by on a total budget of $30 per day, including my accommodation. It was a trip over my 30th birthday, a gift to myself. It was 3 (and then 6 - more of that later) weeks of the most sublime experiences. I arrived a raw and apprehensive, and somewhat uptight character. I left with a hugely different view of travelling in general, and India specifically. When I look back at my time overseas since then, it’s dominated by trips off the beaten path, in some cases into the unknown, and always to places that will fascinate, surprise and in some cases shock.
So - the 3 week / 6 week thing. It kinda needs some explanation, and I’ll try to be brief. The 3 week trip over my 30th was sensational. A genuinely eye-opening and jaw-dropping experience. I spent my first week in Goa, I tracked tigers in Bandhavgarh, I visited the mountainous spice plantations of Kerala, and wondered at the majesty of the Taj Mahal. At the end of all of this, I spent 1 night in Delhi, as a pit-stop before flying home - and got mugged. Rucksack stolen containing passport, and perhaps most devastatingly my camera, with a memory card in it that covered the second half of my trip - The Taj and tiger park. The following 3 weeks were variously spent dealing with India bureaucracy, and getting out of Delhi to visit places I’d not though I’d have time to travel to. The mugging left me concussed, and for the first few days at least, scared. By the end of the 3 weeks, while massively ready to go home, I’d rediscovered my love for India, a love that has persisted until now.
This trip on which I’m embarking today is covering a few bases. I promised myself back in 2007 that I would reconstruct the second half of my journey - visiting Agra to see the Taj, and heading back out into tiger country. You’ll hear a fair bit about that along the way. I’m also heading back to Goa - where Vicki will meet me for 10 days. We both love Goa, and are heading back for the first time in a decade. I’m also visiting some new places en route.
It’s the longest single trip I’ve ever planned. The 2007 extravaganza ended up clocking in at 6 weeks, but that was hardly my intention. This time around, I’ve got 5 1/2 weeks to play with. I’m planning to use trains as my primary method of long distance travel. I’ve loved using trains in India since my first experiences. They’re a brilliant hotbed of social interaction, an amazing place to wile away the hours, and simply one of my very most favourite travel experiences. I have 4 overnight trains, with a variety of sleeping arrangements. I expect to enjoy all of them. I’ve brought a pack of cards in the hope that I can get another cribbage card school up and running on at least one of the trains.
Most of all, I’m excited to see if the India I fell in love with is still there. India has developed massively in the past 17 years - socially and economically. I remember at the time finding that there was a burgeoning middle class, with whom I struggled to connect. Far preferable to me were the everyday working people I met - tuk-tuk drivers, restaurant workers, bar staff. I forged firm, if fleeting friendships. I’d love to find the same attitudes, the same openness and kindness. Time will tell.
For now, I’m happy to be midway to Heathrow, in the back of a National Express coach - a place that’s become familiar and comforting to me over the past 12 months. Onwards, to Heathrow Terminal 3!
17:00
I’ve been here before n’all. ‘Here’ right now is the Curator at Heathrow’s Terminal 3. The terminal itself is its usual shitshow, but The Curator is a place of repose. It’s the last time for quite some… No - actually, we’ll fly out of here with Ali and Karin to New York in June. But other than THAT, it’s deffo the last time for quite a while.
I get chatting to a couple in the bar. They’re also headed to India, but starting in Mumbai, before heading South to Goa, Kerala, and then up the East coast, to Puducherry and Chennai - all by way of celebrating their collective retirements. I comment (v cautiously) that neither of them look to be in their mid to late 60s. Happily, they’re not. Early retirees at 57 and 60 respectively. I love that they’re heading off on a self-guided back-packing trip, and find myself wondering if I’ll be doing the same in 10-15 years time…
There are a lot of young people in the airport. By ‘young’ I mean 18-25. I’m intrigued as to where they’re going, as T3 is predominantly a long haul destination. I find myself judging that most are off on some kind of gap year type thing. I didn’t get around to that at a similar age, but have plenty of friends who did. India, Nepal, SE Asia and Australasia were the destinations of the day, and I’m curious whether that’s the same today. I let curiosity get the better of me, and ask just such a youth, who’s standing at the bar, where he’s off to. “Prague” is the answer. I did say it was *largely* a long-haul terminal…Lue lisää
I’mLooking for forward to reading about this trip. [Darron]
MatkaajaSafe trip x
MatkaajaTaking sleeper trains?