Day 6 - Coastward Bound

13:00
Today, I leave the mighty Namib behind, and head for the coast. I’m awake at 05:00, having slept pretty well. Woke up a little achey once or twice in the night. It’s still totally dark outside, but I get up to get some coffee on. It is WINDY this morning. I’ve been warned of the particularly strong easterly winds in this part of the country, and there’s one blowing this morning - so much so that I daren’t leave the back or sides of the truck open in case everything blows away. This also makes the task of getting coffee ready a much slower one, as it’s a bit of a faff opening the door I need each time.

The sun starts to sneak up behind me. Suddenly I just notice the faintest tinge of blue in the otherwise black sky. It’s chilly. The overnight temp combined with the whistling wind mean I’m more comfortable in trainers and a fleece. The coffee does its job though. There’s suddenly a loud noise behind me. The wind is SO strong, that it has blown my tent off one side of its moorings. Wow. The top sheet is acting as something of a kite, and has pulled the rest of the tent with it. I quickly remove the top sheet, and fold the tent into something more approximating its normal shape. I’ll worry about reattaching the top sheet when:

1) I get into Swakopmund, and
2) the wind has substantially dropped.

It’s gonna be tough enough getting the waterproof covers onto the tents in this wind…

Breakfast is a simple delight. Toast made from Leia’s incredible fresh baked bread, and some homemade preserves - the one made from prickly pear is a particular delight. Some yoghurt and granola, and I’m good to go.

I’m noticing that each day, the first time I get on a rough, gravel road, it feels really alien, but I fairly quickly settle into it. Today is no different. I don’t remember the road to Camp Gecko being this rough, and after 5 minutes, it apparently isn’t.

I’m headed North West - up to Swakopmund. It’s a good 5 hours on the road, with a few stops along the way. It’s also ‘only’ 250km, which means there are some rough roads ahead.

I’m back on the C14 road, that was such a delight yesterday. I think the greatest challenge with these kinds of roads is the changing terrain. If it was ALL bumpy gravel, then sure - you can cope. It’s when a perfectly smooth stretch of paved road suddenly becomes a shifting sandy truck-trap that things go awry. Hitting these sand patches at 80km/h is not a great deal of fun. Immediately, the front wheels are loose. Sometimes, the rear wheels join them. I have a couple of slightly sketchy/adrenaline thumper moments. Try to make even the most gentle of turns on these surfaces at anything more than 40km/h, and it's instant understeer. Still, STILL there are vehicles travelling much faster than me.

I drive through the Gaub pass, which narrows the road as it twists and turns through some hills. I meander through the Kuiseb pass, part of Namibia’s Valley of 1,000 Hills. About 100km from Swakop, the road changes to a sort of flat (and smooth) mud-track that’s been mixed with tarmac. It’s a delight to drive on after the bumpathon I’ve endured this morning.

As I cruise North, the terrain starts to change. At points, I wonder if this is what the moon looks like. I mean - I’ve never been, but I’ve seen pictures. Ooh, speaking of terrain looking familiar - remember I said that the area around Camp Gecko felt like a cross between Mad Max and a Western movie? Well - much of Mad Max : Furiosa was filmed in this part of the world, so - meaningless 'well done' point to me.

There are vast swathes of arid nothingness as far as the eye can see. Way off in the distance I see what I believe to be low lying banks of cloud, shrouding the hilltops. It turns out, 20km down the road, that they are white rock. Why/how, I’m not sure.

I’m making really good progress now, and am rapidly approaching Walvis Bay - largely known as a fairly dull commercial port. I’ll stop in to see the dunes, then hit the coast road to Swakop.

17:45
Arriving into Swakopmund, I’m immediately struck by some of the late colonial architecture on display. What used to the old train station is now a luxury hotel and casino, but still retains the slightly Germanic Baroque style facade. Elsewhere, the architecture is more modern, and has some US beach-house vibes to it. It’s a fascinating melting pot. The colonial elements remind me of Namibia’s colonial history, and the largely German and Afrikaans influences that persist today.

I park up down by the beach. It’s noticeably cooler on the coast than the desert that’s been my home for the past 4 days. The outside temp shown in the car peaked this morning around 33C at 11:00, as I drove through arid bushland at the northern end of the Namib. It then gradually declined as I approached Swakop, and reads 20C as I arrive. Not cold, per se - but a much fresher feel to proceedings.

I stop in at Stammtisch, a pub by the beach, for a much deserved Savanna and some lunch. As I look around, I have vague recollections of similar beach towns in the US, and specifically the New England coast in Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts - grand old dames of towns, perhaps a little past their heyday, but with boundless charm and character. Reading a little about Swakopmund, I discover that open-water sea swimming is discouraged because of the risk of shark attacks, which is when it hits me - it reminds me of Amity Island from the Jaws movies.

My Savanna is cold, and the Bratwurst Brotchen (more of that German influence) is excellent. Brotchen is a ubiquitous bread roll, found in all bakeries and supermarkets in Namibia. Crusty, but with a super pillowy dough inside. Stuffed with mustard, some grilled onions and a couple of bratwurst, it’s an awesome way to sate some hunger.

I’m joining a work call tonight - something I would typically never do, so protective am I of my time away from the grindstone. When I joined PDRI, I negotiated some extra time off each year (unpaid) so I could continue to travel - reasoning that a happy Tim = a productive Tim, and that more travel = a happier Tim. My boss kindly agreed, but also mentioned when I got back from Sri Lanka earlier this year that having no contact with me for 2 weeks had been tough. 3 weeks in Namibia, she thought, would be even tougher. We have a leadership team meeting which I chair every Wednesday for a couple of hours, which stretches into my evening in the UK. I suggested we try having me join that call (but have someone else chair it) for the time I’m on this trip to see if:

1) It gives me enough contact with the team to help them out, and
2) I can integrate it into my travel without it impinging on my enjoyment of the trip.

Jobs in the past, I would have said no way - it would be too much of an imposition. I think I’m different now though, I think I’m capable of dipping in and out more effectively, and am happy to put that to the test.

As a result of my call, I grab some supplies for a room picnic, then head up to Desert Breeze, on the outskirts of town. My room is, let’s not beat around the bush, spectacular. Beautifully equipped, stunning views, thoughtfully decorated. Just incredible. My accommodation was booked for me by the company that also arranged my truck hire and itinerary. While I’ve checked out websites and a few online reviews, I’m relatively in the unknown about my accommodation options day-to-day. The juxtaposition between the empty and basic wilderness of Camp Gecko, and the super-luxe comfort of Desert Breeze is astonishing. I’ll chat to the arranging company when I get back. I suspect that they felt that after a few nights of basic camping, I would be in need of some creature comforts. I’m not sure that’s necessarily true, but the comforts are welcome anyway.

20:30
The work call is usually scheduled for 2 hours, and starts at 18:00 local time (17:00 in the UK). Today, it lasts for just under an hour, so I’m done by 19:00, and can return to my usual programming. Ten minutes after I sign out of Teams, I’m back to relaxing with my book in hand, a Savanna on the table next to me, and laid out on the uber comfy sofa. Turns out my hypothesis is correct. Doesn’t mean I’d always want to sign up to being in touch while I’m away, but I’m reassured that the option is there, should I or the company need it.

My room picnic consists of some Coppa - a locally produced, cured pork shoulder charcuterie. Sensational. Also in the bag are a Brie style cheese made in South Africa, and a baguette loaf made in the Brotchen style. Super simple, but very tasty and nourishing. A few days of early starts and long days are catching up with me, and the vast, comfy bed is making eyes at me. See ya tomorrow…Read more