Part-time worker, lifelong traveller. Off on some new adventures... Baca lagi Brighton, United Kingdom
  • Hari 4

    Day 4 - Food and fighting

    15 Jun, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    05:00
    I wake up at 03:00. Bah humbug. Once again, I’m instantly awake and clear-headed. I try to sleep for 30 minutes, but even I’m sceptical. I give up, and read for a while, in the hope this will tire my eyes again. My reading is briefly interrupted by a somewhat urgent dash to the latrine. I don’t think it’s anything sinister - just my stomach recovering from the long journey out here, and likely acclimatising to new environment / food etc etc. I’m heartened when a further hour’s reading doesn’t require any additional latrine based dashes. Feeling fairly tired again. Hoping I can grab a few more hours…

    10:30
    Sleep never came. At 07:00, I give up trying. I grumpily make a coffee, and make for my balcony. The day feels sweaty. It feels like it’s rained a lot overnight. The verdant leaves of the Pai Loess garden are heavy with water. Felix is awake a little before 08:00, and we compare sleeping notes. He struggled to get off to sleep last night, but has at least slept through till now. We grab some breakfast at our resort, and make something approaching a plan. We’re both reluctant to bike ride today, so decide an afternoon cooking class is in order. I find a suitable option, negotiate starting time / dishes we’ll cook, and agree to pop in this morning to pay for the lesson.

    Payment sorted, we head off on a meander around Pai. It’s a little after 09:00, and the town feels like it partied too hard last night, and is struggling to wake up. There are very few travellers up and about at this time on a Saturday. Felix and I both heard revelry going on near us last night. He - some sort of rave based activity, and I, a rather bizarre post-punk rockabilly sort of band. Reading that back, I do wonder whether I dreamt it, but I’m pretty sure not. We stop to chat to a few tour operators, to try and make plans for tomorrow, to get out of town to see some of the beautiful scenery surrounding Pai. The sun is trying to shine. Even at 10:00 it’s feeling pretty hot. We see a sign for some Muay Thai boxing this evening, and decide this will probably make for some decent entertainment. Felix heads off for a swim, while I head back to Pai Loess to try and catch up on some zizz.

    19:15
    Success! I manage a good 3 hours, waking at 14:00 ahead of our 15:00 cooking class. I feel a LOT better for it. Quick shower, and we’re heading off to Saveoi. We’re the only people in our class, which is great. The set up is awesome - a proper garden kitchen behind their restaurant. We’ve each selected two dishes to cook - spring rolls and a Paneang curry for Felix, and a glass noodle salad and stir-fried chicken noodles for me. We start with the noodle salad / spring rolls. Our teacher, Mwanee (sp?) is a patient and insightful coach. She talks us through some of the basics of Thai cookery - ingredients, styles, flavourings. Our ingredients are carefully laid out in front of us, and we’re walked through each stage. The resulting food is, and I’m not kidding here, tremendous. I ate similar salads a bunch of times back in April, and I’m delighted now to know how to recreate them at home. Felix’s spring rolls are properly excellent. There’s more technique in his dish, and I’m more than impressed at the quality of what he creates. We sit to scarf these down, and move onto our second dishes.

    There’s a brief hiatus as we come to realise Paneang curry heavily features peanuts, to which Felix has a slight intolerance. Plans are adapted to a yellow curry instead, and all is well with the world once again. There’s some quite intense manual labour going in to making his yellow curry paste. I realise I’m being less than sympathetic towards his efforts. I’m hopeful my stir-fried noodles are in the same vein as those Vicki and I tried on our street food tour of Bangkok. The ingredients certainly seem to be pointing in that direction… The dish is simple to cook, though I’m surprised at the use of water at a couple of stages of the cooking. There’s also a store-bought ‘XO’ sauce used at the end of cooking, about which I need to learn more as it seems critical to the colour, texture and flavour of the dish. Felix has done great things with his curry - it smells wonderfully aromatic and enticing. Again, we sit to eat - and we’re both more than a little pleased with ourselves. As we eat, Mwanee brings us a cookbook, containing the recipes we’ve cooked today, as well as others that are available to cook. I’ll treasure it.

    Food and heat combine to leave Felix feeling nap-destined. We head back to Pai Loess, and agree to touch base a little later, before the boxing starts at 20:00. I read for a while but can feel my eyes growing heavy, so lay my head down - you know, just in case there’s some nap to be had. It transpires there is. I’m conscious that I’m doing very well catching up on sleep through the day, but it would be far preferable to manage a full night’s sleep at some point. I’ve brought some Zopiclone with me. Reckon I’ll treat myself to one tonight, to see if I can course correct a little…

    23:50
    We’re up and out around 19:30. We stop at a cool little bar called Vinyl Sky - a rooftop cocktail joint. Tunes are good, chat is awesome, cocktail is brilliant. I have something called a Flying Moon, which is basically a vodka martini with some lychee liqueur added to it. While chatting, we dissect the nature of monogamy, views on friendship, the challenges of parenthood - despite neither of us being a parent.

    We head further up the road, to the Muay Thai boxing promotion. The big top is constructed with bamboo, and has some more than avant-garde décor. The fighting is visceral. I think this is the first live pugilism event I’ve attended. When I use the word pugilism, Felix laughs, but then acknowledges that despite sounding like I’m from the 19th century, it’s the right word. The bouts are well matched. We see at least one, and possibly two bones broken. The rituals when the fighters enter the ring, which are somewhat spiritual in nature, are entrancing. Neither Felix nor I are particularly familiar with the rules and regulations of Muay Thai. Yes - kicking is encouraged; elbows are a must. We’re both unsure about the more judo-oriented elements we witness, but they’re cheered by the crowd, and seem to be viewed well by the judges. We’re one row behind ringside, and the view of the ring is primal. Despite not necessarily feeling 100% comfortable with some of the beatings that are happening, I enjoy the evening more than I maybe thought I would. It’s £8 for 4 hours of brilliant entertainment.

    The bouts finish about 23:30. We think briefly about grabbing some street food, but are both pretty jaded. We’ve got vague plans for tomorrow, so agree to meet for breakfast to thrash out what Sunday will entail…
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 3

    Day 3 - Mountain bound

    14 Jun, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    08:30
    Well, that didn’t go quite as planned. I get off into a deep, dream filled sleep almost immediately, but wake at 01:30 as clear as a bell. I try for maybe an hour to get back off, with no luck. This is eerily similar to my first couple of nights in Bangkok in April - a mild bit of jet-lag, but jet-lag nonetheless. Giving up at 02:30, I occupy my time with some reading, some journal writing. I feel properly wide awake. Around 04:30, I start to feel a bit yawny, and my eyes are gaining weight. I try to sleep, and have some success. I’m a bit wakey, but sleep intermittently until my alarm goes off at 08:00. Not the best night’s sleep, but it’ll do for now. We’ll be in Pai by early afternoon, and a nap feels very likely to be in my future. Perhaps I’ll try for less than 5 hours this time…

    12:09
    We’re about half way to Pai. It transpires Felix has had a not dissimilar jet-laggy type experience, being wide awake for a few hours around midnight. He asks me whether I got bitten last night. I confidently state that I was not. This will come back to (pardon the pun) bite me. Picking up the bus is a more straightforward task than I’d feared / assumed. A 10 min cab ride drops us at the bus station, and a couple of strategically placed questions send us in the right direction of the company with whom we’re travelling. There’s a little confusion when we’re directed to ac couple of different minivans, but these idiosyncrasies are worked out quickly enough. Our backpacks are loaded onto the roof rack and covered with a tarpaulin. This is rainy season, don’t forget. We depart pretty much bang on time at 10:30, and head North.

    The roads out of Chiang Mai are pretty bland - 2 lane highways with businesses coating the roadsides. The urban sprawl of Chiang Mai is much greater than I’d guessed. Fully 30 minutes after we leave the bus station, we’re still in the outer suburbs. Seeing the eminently walkable old town last night, I’d assumed a much smaller urban footprint. Soon enough, we’re out into the rural stretches, running up towards the hills. Felix and I natter, as a strangely uniform countryside passes by. That’s not to say it’s dull to look at - but simply that there’s a very definite character to it, that doesn’t seem to change for a good 40 minutes. We then start to climb, heading deeper and deeper into hill country. Our driver is an enthusiastic sort, and takes every fleeting opportunity to overtake slower vehicles, of which there are many. I’ve long since given up finding these manoeuvres scary or uncomfortable. The roads gradually narrow, and become very windy. Felix and I are sat at the back of the bus, and whilst I wouldn’t say we’re being thrown around, there are definitely some g-forces pushing us from side to side.

    About 90 minutes into our journey, which promises to be somewhere between 2.5 and 4.5 hours depending who you listen to (though we don’t know why the huge variance), we stop at what seems to pass for a service station in the backwaters of northern Thailand. There’s an enterprising chap charging 3 THB for a visit to the toilet, and a further 5 THB if you require toilet paper. Felix finds a food stall selling baked ginger, which is our new favourite thing. In baking the ginger root, the fiery flavour is dampened, and a sweetness replaces it. The texture is changed as well, from a fibrous mess, to a firm, jelly like texture. They’re the best kind of gummies for grown-ups. Legs stretched, we pile back into the bus to continue onwards to Pai.

    23:00
    We drive through some heavy-ish rain on the last hour of our journey to Pai. Felix is feeling a little travel sick, so takes a nap for the last leg of the journey. Arriving into Pai, the temperature is high, and it’s steamy. Our guest house is a short walk away, so we decide to sweat it out. Pai is not big - the permanent population is somewhere around 3,000. I suspect, in peak season, the transient population is several times that. We’re here in low season, and I still suspect travellers outnumber locals. Despite this, the town doesn’t feel at all hectic or busy. The 5 minute walk to the river we must cross take us past countless bars, restaurants, street food stalls.

    Arriving at the riverside, we discover the bamboo bridge has been washed away - when, we’re not entirely sure. There’s another bamboo bridge a few minutes walk to the North of us, so we head back up in that direction. The bridge is hilarious. I’m sure it’s perfectly stable, but walking across it is a little like walking across a bouncy castle. Could be fun in the dark…

    We’re staying at Pai Loess Resort, right on the riverbank. It’s sleepy, in all the good ways. We’re greeted by the elderly, female owner, who is hilariously also called Tim. She shows us to our bungalows, which are great. Simple, but comfortable, clean etc etc. There’s a power outage when we arrive, but we’re assured the electricity should power back up within an hour. I’m aiming for a nap, but I’m fairly sure it’s/I’m too sticky to sleep. I have a quick cold shower to cool down, and lie down. Sleep is slow in coming. I’m just about to give up, when the power clicks back on, and the A/C unit purrs into life. The room cools quickly, and I’m soon in the land of snooze.

    I manage a couple of hours. I don’t want to oversleep this afternoon only to struggle later, so this feels like a reasonable approach. It’s rained while I’ve been sleeping, but rather than contribute to the steamy atmosphere, it feels like it’s cleared the air a little. We head out, ostensibly in search of food. We’ve neither of us eaten much today. We stop in at a bar called Paizy where I introduce Felix to Manao soda (sans Vodka…), and where we play a calamitous game of pool. The rain’s come back in a pretty substantial way, so we bed in with another drink, in the hope it’ll quickly clear.

    It doesn’t, so we head out in the persistent conditions, and aim for a restaurant a few mins walk down the road. Walking in warm rain is amongst my favourite things, so I’m happy getting soaked through. The restaurant is a tiny, family-run affair that’s said to serve some of the best noodles in Pai. Felix has a Tom Yum soup with prawns and rice, and I have a Pad See Ew - fried noodles with chicken. Both are banging. Our bill for dinner comes to £4.

    Just near the bamboo bridge is a bar called The Jazz House which has some live music, towards which we head. Felix has decided to forego his socks, as they’re still soggy from the walk over to the restaurant, and quickly decides his t-shirt can do one too. I’m a little sceptical of his planned strategy of using his socks to dry himself before re-donning his t-shirt when we get to the bar. It’s a short walk, but we’re both substantially soggy on arrival. The sock strategy works better than I’d expected. The Jazz House is a properly esoteric little place. There’s a strong smell of weed in the air, some musicians warming up, and a hippy-ish American who looks to be in his 70s, who I suspect is the owner. We both order a Manao - loaded in my case - and settle down to listen to the live music show. The artist is talented. He’s playing an acoustic guitar with a pedal-board - used for loops and effects. He’s covering a wide range of styles - we hear some Arctic Monkeys, some Fleetwood Mac, some Oasis. I love watching these acoustic, solo, pedal-board performances. The best exponents of the art can really bring a song to life in a different way to the source material. I’ve seen an hour long show of KT Tunstall’s where she did nothing but, and it was sensational.

    Time’s marching on, and I think we’re both still a touch jaded. We agree to review our plans for tomorrow once we’ve seen what the weather’s doing. We’re both interested in a cookery course while we’re here, which is a good shout if it’s pissing it down. If the weather gods shine on us, we’ll grab a couple of bikes, and head out of town to see some of the local countryside.

    Felix heads straight back to the resort, whilst I pop to the 7/11 to grab a few room supplies. I’m delighted to find they have the locally (Thai) brewed Snowy beers in stock, including their Yuzu beer which I enjoyed so much back in April. Back in my room, I discover my earlier jubilance at not having been bitten was poorly placed. I have more than several / less than many itchy red welts on my legs. I send pictorial evidence of these to Vicki, who quite reasonably asks where my bug spray is. I quite reasonably reply that I know EXACTLY where it is - buried deep in my as yet unpacked backpack. I promise (to her, and to myself) to be more mindful of this for the remainder of the trip.

    I read for a couple of hours, as my eyes grow steadily heavier. I’m hopeful a slightly later night combined with a MUCH shorter afternoon nap might let me sleep through the night…
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 2

    Day 2 - The other side of the world...

    13 Jun, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    10:20
    42C’s medical attention continues for some time. He's on the oxygen mask for two hours - until the oxygen runs out I assume. After this, he starts to make a substantial recovery. This is obviously great news - but it has rather upset the balance of the flight. Half the cabin crew have been tending to him, and the other half haven’t been able to get past him to carry out the meal service. As a result, we don’t get fed and watered for close to 2.5 hours after take-off. I quickly reason that I’m not going to get much/any sleep on this flight either. Happily, we’ve not much planned for later today, so I can have an afternoon nap of dramatic proportions. Ultimately, I manage a sketchy hour before landing. It’ll have to suffice.

    We make up some time in flight, and land just about 15-20 minutes late - plenty of time to make my connecting flight. I’m knackered though. The domestic connection gates are (predictably) on the opposite end of the airport. It takes me about 20 minutes to walk over, but the terminal is well air-conditioned. I’m starting to feel a little feverish and achey though. I’m hopeful this is just fatigue after a hectic few days, rather than anything more sinister.

    Arriving at gate A2, I can clearly see Felix. Of course I can - he’s 17 feet tall. It’s a slightly weird, but very cool to meet like this, on the other side of the world. He’s made a friend on his journey from Abu Dhabi into Thailand - a Masters student who’s spending 6 months in Chiang Mai working on a humanitarian aid project.

    Our final flight is a puddle jump - maybe an hour in flight. We’re quickly boarded, and leave on time. I cannot WAIT to get into my bed when we get to Chiang Mai…

    17:30
    The flight to Chiang Mai is one of those that seems to reach its cruising altitude, only to start descent immediately. Chiang Mai is a pretty small, provincial airport. We land at 11:05, have our hold bags in hand by 11:25, and are on our way to our guesthouse by 11:35. We take the scenic route around the town in a pre-booked taxi. We’re staying at the edge of the old town, and I suspect there are lots of small alleys and one way streets. We get ourselves checked in, and I collapse onto my bed. I’m feeling really rather rubbish, and I’m desperately hoping that a good sleep will improve things.

    I’m asleep in moments, having just about managed to set an alarm for 17:00. I wake a few times along the way, but basically sleep for a full 5 hours. Waking, I find Felix has done much the same. I’m still not feeling quite right, but I can feel a marked improvement for some decent sleep. I’ll grab some cold and flu remedy at a pharmacy this evening, and hope that that’ll keep things in order.

    #prayfortim’ssnuffles

    23:00
    We meet at 18:00, and set off with no particular destination in mind. We’re neither of us particularly hungry just yet, so figure we’ll just walk for a while, and see where the evening takes us. Chiang Mai seems fairly sleepy. There are a few people out walking on the streets. Most of the people we see are on mopeds/bikes and in cars. We pass a spectacular temple with Chinese style sloped rooves, and a scary looking cat. We amble by a large square, which is being used as a skate park by some half-decent skate-boarders. The city is small enough to feel quite familiar quite quickly. We pause for a pitstop - beer for me, ginger ale for Felix. He stopped drinking a couple of years ago now. I suspect this will do positive things to the amount I would otherwise drink on this trip.

    Thirst slaked, we walk on, via a street food market that smells great, but which is occupied by about three times as many stallholders as customers. A man on stage is doing terrible things to an acoustic guitar. We briefly try (and fail) to find a bar nearby called Wetherspoons.

    Our wanderings have spiked our appetites, so we head to a restaurant called Link for some dinner. I award myself my first Som Tam (papaya salad) of this trip - its familiar flavours and textures a welcome friend. I also order some deep-fried prawns in a tamarind sauce, which are stellar. Felix has a soft-shell crab and mango dish, which he declares excellent. The bill is comfortably below £30 for both of us, which feels like decent value.

    While we’re eating, night has fallen - quickly, as is the way this close to the equator. The temperature is still in the mid 20s, and humidity is high, but it’s a far cry from the oppressive heat of Bangkok in April. Hopefully a sign of things to come. We’re likely to see quite a lot of rain in the next couple of weeks, and this will help keep the heat manageable. Tomorrow, we’re heading up into the mountains, to Pai, which sounds/looks amazing, and a great place to put roots down for a few days. Our bus is at 10:30, so we decide to head back to the hotel and have (hopefully) a good night’s rest. On the way back to the hotel, we see a different side to Chiang Mai, walking down its alleys and back-routes. There is some beautiful street-art on display - some is tagging, others more graffiti based artwork, and others again more classical artwork. It’s everywhere. We’re going to come back via Chiang Mai in a few days before we head South, and I note to myself to learn more about this trend.

    Back at our guesthouse, I read for a while, but my eyes are intensely heavy. I set an alarm, and hope for the best.
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 1

    Day 1 - I've been here before...

    12 Jun, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    06:30
    Morning! I’m scooting up the M23, comfortably ensconced in my cab. I’d initially planned to jump on the National Express coach, but the 05:45 departure felt just a touch brutal.

    A full day of international travel awaits me. Gatwick via Dubai and Bangkok, and ending in Chiang Mai, in the North of Thailand. 4 weeks later, a flight back from Singapore. In between is kinda up for grabs, with very few fixed plans to speak of - a visit to a national park in Thailand, a flight from Phnom Penh to Singapore. Otherwise, it’s figure out along the way territory.

    Oh, and I’m not travelling solo. My companion on this epic journey is not my beloved Vicki, but my cousin, Felix. Accurately, I think he’s my first cousin, once removed - but I’m not hugely up on the specifics of family trees, so ‘cousin’ will suffice. Like me, he lost his Dad last year, and like me, is taking some time out to figure out what’s next. He’s not done any far-flung travel, so I offered to let him join any of this year’s itinerary. I’m half hoping / half expecting that this trip will lead to a lifelong love of exploring the world. I’ll apologise to his bank manager later.

    Having spent an amazing few weeks in central and southern Thailand in April, I’m excited to explore the North. I’m expecting a very different pace of life, a new food culture, a path less well worn. Cambodia - I’m not quite so sure what awaits. Speaking to friends who have travelled there, I suspect a simpler and starker way of life, and much more obvious poverty. Amazing things to see, for sure - but a perhaps more challenging culture with which to get to grips, and some really not that ancient history that I think will make me equal parts angry and sad. Singapore is a city I’ve wanted to visit for years, and with which I wanted to bookend this trip, as I’m ready for it to feel so incredibly different to the time in Thailand and Cambodia. Famously the cleanest and most organised city on the planet, the juxtaposition to rural Thailand, and various parts of Cambodia will be fun to experience.

    Onwards chariot, to North Terminal!

    08:15
    There are quite a few more children here than:

    a) I’d expected, and
    b) is entirely necessary.

    I find myself working out whereabouts we are in the school Summer term, and drawing the conclusion that most parents here are taking their kids out of school, and swallowing the resulting fine from the Local Education Authority, rather than paying the depressingly gargantuan price hikes of the Summer holidays. I grab some breakfast with a coffee, which feels terribly grown up. I’m soon lusting, however, after the peace and quiet (I know, it’s an airport, how dare I etc etc) of a bar with an over 18s policy.

    08:45
    I’ve been here before. I’m in Brewdog in Gatwick North terminal departures, readying myself for an Emirates flight. Two months ago, with Vicks, on part one of our trip to Thailand. Three months ago, on my tod, heading to Sri Lanka. I’m equal parts amazed and delighted that it doesn’t feel remotely stale. I have the same, raw excitement to be heading off on my travels that I did on each of those previous occasions.Vicki asked me yesterday if I think I’ll get bored of it by, I don’t know - this time next year, when I plan/hope to be going back to work. I really don’t think so. Every time I travel, every place I go, it just spurs me to go to more and new destinations. I’m fully expecting to catch a South American bug when we visit Brazil in October - and subsequently to want to journey to Chile, Colombia, Argentina, Peru. I’ve not even begun to explore Central America, and much of Africa remains unknown to me. I particularly want to spend some time in southern Africa that’s NOT South Africa - the 3 Ms of Madagascar, Mali and Mozambique feel like a good starting point, perhaps with a bit of Mauritius tacked on as well. And despite spending a chunk of time in South East Asia, I’ve got a tremendous itching to see Indonesia, the Philippines, Laos and Myanmar. And I really ought to get to China at some point. There’s definitely enough to keep me busy for a few years yet.

    Brewdog have the over-18s policy I’m craving, and it’s a calm oasis amidst the buzzing throng of the departure lounge. I spend a delightful hour reading back some of my travel journals from this year’s trips. My sabbatical is flying past, but it feels an age ago that we were in New York over my birthday, in November last year. I’ve packed a huge amount into my break so far, and count myself incredibly fortunate to have a lot more fun and frolics yet to come.

    Felix lives in York, along with much of my extended family. As a result, he’s flying from Manchester, via Abu Dhabi, and we’ll have some kind of family reunion in a bar in Bangkok Airport, before we jump on the same flight to Chiang Mai. It all feels very jet-set. Our flights leave at similar times. He’s at the airport in the departure lounge, currently deciding what useless tat to buy. We briefly discuss my stealing a rather attractive Brewdog pint glass, and creating an Insta account to record its travels around SE Asia.

    I’m conscious there are things happening in the UK while I’m gone - some of which are a shame to miss, others - less so. I can’t pretend I’m not delighted to be missing the next three weeks of electioneering in the UK. The first couple of weeks have been more than enough for me. That said, I’ll definitely be setting an early alarm for the 5th July, to watch the results come in, and hopefully see a few Tories crying in school gymnasiums (gymnasia?).

    I’m not too sad to be missing all but the final of the European Championships either. I’ve never been *that* fussed about international football. I remember being excited as respectively 8 and 12 for the ’86 and ’90 World Cups, but beyond that, I’ve never really got the fizz for big, international competitions. I’ll keep an eye from afar, but it’s reassuring to know I won’t feel like tracking down a bar in which to watch whatever England game at 03:00 local time.

    I AM gutted to miss Glastonbury, and (as ever) a bunch of friends are going, and I know they’ll have the most amazing time. Vicki and I will try again for tickets next year. We both feel like we’ve got at least one Glasto left in us, and perhaps more… The headliner line-up this year doesn’t do that much for me, but I’ve said that at previous Glastos, and ended up having an incredible time exploring smaller stages and generally wombling around.

    Most of all, I’ll miss my awesome Vicki. This is comfortably the longest we’ll ever have been apart. The ways of the modern world mean there are ample means to keep in touch, but it’s never the same as staring at her beautiful face…

    20:43
    My flight is called at 09:05. I hardly dawdle. I refill my water bottle, nip to the gents quickly, and head straight to the gate - where I’m chided as the gate is already closing? I can only assume the flight is pretty empty today, and so processing folks onto the plane has happened more quickly than usual. I’m on a 777-300, which whilst by no means a small plane, still flies about 50% of the passengers of an Emirates A380 leaving Gatwick. I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that I’m a little disappointed not to be on an A380 for this leg. Happily though, I arrive to my seat to find the other 2 in my row empty. The cabin crew guy tells me that there’s really no-one else to board, so I’ve got the row to myself = RESULT. Somebody in a row behind asks a flight attendant if they can have one of my seats, and are told no - it’s only for special people like me.

    We push back a little early, and take off in good time. It’s tricky to rationalise the really pretty busy terminal earlier, with the pleasantly relaxed and quiet journey to Dubai. I guess the hordes of kids I encountered earlier are largely heading off on shorter trips - maybe across Europe?

    I’m pretty jaded after an early start, and not a ton of sleep. I forego the lunch offering (but not the wine course), and try to grab some shut-eye. There is, unfortunately, a very screamy kid sitting across the aisle from me. He’s not crying, or even upset - he just likes to shout, a LOT. I manage to get an hour or so of scratchy sleep, but his screams pervade even my trustiest of noise cancelling cans. I try and catch his mum’s eye on a couple of occasions, but she’s having none of it.

    I give up on the notion of sleep, and watch Dune 2. I figure that a 3 hour movie will take a large chunk out of the flight. I loved it in the cinema, and despite the scale not being quite as impressive on a 14” screen, it’s still a brilliant, brilliant film.

    I wonder about having a glass of wine. My throat, though, is a little tight and sore. I’ve been a bit snuffly for a couple of days, and wonder if I’ve got a little bit of lurgy kicking around. I’ll grab some lozenges at Dubai Airport. We’re making good time, and the First Officer updates us to let us know we’re probably going to land a little early. Summertime has hit Dubai - gone are the pretty manic floods of a couple of months ago. The temperature is 39C, and weather shouldn’t delay us. You can never completely rule out a sandstorm in the UAE though…

    We pull into our gate around 19:50 - fully 15 minutes ahead of schedule. I’m at a B gate, and departing from the A Concourse. Sadly, this denies me a return visit to the Hard Rock Café. I make do instead with a bar called Jack’s, and slide into a large glass of red wine. Haven’t seen a pharmacy yet, but I’ll deffo check that out in a mo.

    Felix and I have a slightly surreal conversation, where he’s in an airport 50 miles down the road, and slightly bored. I treat myself to a further glass of Merlot, in the hope that it’ll help me kip for a good few hours on my next flight. Here’s hoping / fingers crossed / touch wood etc etc.

    23:55
    My flight’s a little delayed leaving Dubai. We board in good time, but there’s apparently an electrical issue. To fix it, the crew are going to (I’m not kidding) turn it off, and turn it back on again. It works, but we’ve missed our take off slot, and have to join the queue for another. We finally get underway around 23:00. Take off’s fine. I get up when the seatbelt sign is turned off to grab my cans, and find three cabin crew around a passenger in the row behind me. They’re taking his temperature, checking his blood pressure and so on. He’s clearly not in a good way. Without wanting to be *too* much of a twat about it, they’re also sitting right where I need to be to get into the overhead locker. I stand, waiting patiently - ultimately for upwards of 30 minutes. By this point, 42C (for that’s his seat…) has an oxygen mask. I begin to wonder whether we’re going to need to divert, or return to Dubai….
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 16

    Day 16 - Home. Reflections...

    17 Mei, England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 16 - Home. Reflections…

    15:30
    The dinner service is blissfully rapid, and an hour into the flight, I’m donning my headphones and eye-mask to catch some snooze. I sleep for a shade under 5 hours, which is a decent result. I’m in a Premium Economy seat, and the extra legroom makes such a difference to my sleeping chances.

    We’re actually early landing into Heathrow. The Atlantic jet stream has helped us along, without some of the crazy turbulence I’ve experienced in the past on flights back from the US. We pull up to a remote stand at 13:45. Getting through T3 is a breeze. There’s zero queue at passport control, and my bags are already on the carousel when I get into baggage reclaim. I meet Andy at 14:10, and we’re on the road moments later.

    A few reflections on my time in the US…

    1) I adore road trips. Some of the journey times would, I suspect, have been more than Vicki would have wanted to bear, but I was quite comfortable spending 7 hours in the car on some days. My decision largely to avoid interstates was a good one, and I got to see so much more of the states through which I travelled than I would have done on the freeway.
    2) Southern hospitality is a thing. Everywhere I travelled in the South I was greeted with open arms - figuratively (and literally on one occasion). All of the folks I met were kind, warm-hearted and welcoming.
    It’s very easy to eat well across the US. It’s easy to eat badly, if that’s your thing, but the quality of food in diners, bars and restaurants is brilliantly high.
    3) Prices in those places vary massively. The cheapest diner breakfast (eggs, toast, hash browns) I ate was around $6. The most expensive around $16.
    4) I am declaring a volte face on Florida. My preconceptions of the state have largely been based on theme parks vacation spots around Orlando, and the questionable politics of the state’s Governor. Miami is a brilliant city, and I can’t wait to go back. The Everglades are a stunningly beautiful ecosystem, the Keys are wonderful, and I even enjoyed the slightly hicksville ambience of Polk County…
    5) At no point did I feel unsafe, I suspect in part because my route avoided major cities (Nashville and Miami aside).
    6),Getting your Sativa and Indica vapes mixed up is not aa great idea.

    That’s all for now. Thanks for reading. I’ll be back in 3 weeks for some more Thailand, a dollop of Cambodia, and just a little pinch of Singapore.
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 15

    Day 15 - This is a land of confusion

    16 Mei, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    20:30
    I wake up after a good sleep, but with a slightly groggy head. I challenged myself to empty the fridge before bed, which meant the last beer, and a couple of glasses of wine. I pack for the final time - which means actually getting stuff into my suitcase. One of the things I most enjoy about road trips is having a car in which to dump carrier bags and the like, rather than having to fully pack my suitcase each and every time I’m moving on. I’ve had a black rubbish sack for dirty clothes, a green fabric shopping bag from Sri Lanka for clothes that are worn, but out of which I can probably eke at least one more wear, and a blue Whole Foods bag from Las Vegas that has been the carrier of my booze’n’food along the way. Not this time - everything’s got to go back into my hold luggage. It’s a bit of a squeeze, but goes in happily enough.

    I’m still not really sure what to do with myself today. I’m erring on the side of heading up to Miami in good time, dumping the car and my bags, then heading into the city for some beers and food. First, I head further along the northern Keys, stopping at a beautiful little state park named for John Pennekamp. No? Me neither. It’s very pretty though, and I spend a relaxing half hour wandering around the coast line. I try to get to Angelfish Cay, to take a picture of it for Karin, but am denied by a closed road. I stop for a late breakfast at a very cool little café called The Hide Out, and then get on the road North for Miami.

    I’ve been assiduously avoiding tolls while I’ve been in the US - not a cost management strategy, but because I’ve been genuinely unsure how to pay for the toll roads, in a world of automated / electronic gates. I decide to finally read the materials I was given when renting the car, and it turns out there’s a very simple way - there’s a transponder on the windscreen, which I basically need to, well - turn on. This cuts my journey time to Miami in half. My flight isn’t until 23:30 tonight, so I’ve got a bunch of time to kill.

    Approaching the city, I see signs for an Outlet Mall, which includes a Columbia store. For those unfamiliar, Columbia is an outdoors / activewear brand - think North Face, and you’re not a million miles away. I’ve been on the lookout for some ultra light/quick dry shorts and zip-off trousers for a while now, and if the prices are decent, this could be a godsend. I’m not 100% convinced I have room in my luggage, but let’s worry about that later. The discounts are immense. A pair of Columbia convertible trousers in the UK would cost me close to £100. Here, I pick up 3 pairs for $30 each. Their lightweight shorts would be £60 at home. Here, $20 per pair. I walk out with close to £500 worth of clothes for £140. I then buy a small duffel bag to pack them in, and I’m still ahead by £300.

    Pleased with my endeavour - because it’s saved me a ton of cash, and because it’s consumed an hour of my boring waiting time, I reward myself with a visit to ‘World of Beer’ a sports bar a few miles from the airport. I have a pint of Voodoo Ranger, and some loaded tots.

    I arrive at the car hire return garage at 15:00. During my stop at WOB (that’s what they call themselves) I’ve realised there’s a Virgin flight leaving at 18:45. Now - bear with me for a moment. When I originally booked my flights to Dulles / out of Miami, my return flight departed at 19:00, arriving into Heathrow around 09:00 on Friday morning. Months back, I got an email from Virgin saying my flight had been changed, and was now a 23:35 departure. Meh, but ok. these things happen. I now find that there’s a flight leaving at almost exactly the same time as my original booking, which I’d much rather have been on. All my flights on this trip are freebies, so I shouldn’t complain *too* loudly, but I’m at least going to head to the ticket office / check-in desk, and see if there’s a chance I can get on the earlier flight.

    Nope. No chance. The 18:45 flight is actually over-booked, so zero possibility of me blagging my way onto it. The check-in attendant says my later flight is very close to full. It’s clearly a busy route for Virgin. She does, however, offer to check-in my bags, even though my flight’s not for 8 hours. I accept - somewhat foolishly as it turns out, as I check in the duffel bag with my new purchases, which ALSO has my hoodie, and trouser legs. Hopefully, the plane won’t be too cold.

    So - I’ve got 7 hours at Miami airport, a decent whack of funds, and a small notion that I shouldn’t just sit in a bar (many bars) and get hammered. My first port of call is a bar - this does not bode well. They have a beer called Dogfish Head 90. I’ve got previous with this beer. When I went to California for a work conference in 2015, it’s the beer that I thought lovely, until I’d had 7 of them. Then, when going to leave, I fell off my chair. Only in hindsight did I discover that the ’90’ refers to the ABV, which is 9%. Ever since, I’ve considered that the 90 stands for how many minutes it takes to get you broadly pissed. It was a very strange day. The conference was at Disneyland in Anaheim. Stumbling around like the pissed idiot I was, I bumped into Goofy, and then Minnie Mouse. They were all very kind. I was also gifted my beers by a lovely couple from Minnesota, who had joined me, sitting at the bar. When I told them it was my birthday (which it really was), they secretly paid my drinks bill. That was around 15:00 on the Sunday afternoon. I went back to my room for a ‘rest’ and woke up at 07:00 on Monday morning, just in time for the conference to start.

    Anyhoo… I’m very well behaved, and have just one of these sneaky little buggers, then sit for a while and catch up on some tablet TV. It’s pushing 18:30 now, so decide it’s probably ok to head through security, having confirmed that my plane is inbound, and due to land soon. The security checkpoint promises a 15-19 minute wait. This is pure bullshit. I realise that as soon as I arrive to the queue. There are 3 of the brand new, 3D scanners available - meaning no need to remove shoes, remove liquids, electronics - but the TSA team responsible for processing passengers have only got 1 of them open. As a result, the queue moves incredibly slowly. At one point, a group of 3 ask if they can move in front of me, because their flight departure time is rapidly approaching. I huff and puff, look at my watch - but let’s face it, my plane leaves in 5 hours, so it’s very little skin off my nose. They repeat this process with 5-6 more people, then hit old grumpy bollocks. An elderly gent (75? 80?) vociferously points out that he arrived to the airport in plenty of time, and maybe they should next time too. I struggle to internalise a chortle. The untrepid explorers flag down a TSA womble, who says he can’t help, and it’s really up to the other customers if they’re allowed through or not.

    Finally through, I head for the nearest bar/restaurant. It’s 19:30. Time is advancing. I sit down, order a beer, and am immediately told the bar closes at 20:00. WTAF? Checking the airport’s website, it transpires that NONE of their hostelries are open past 22:00. My flight doesn’t even begin boarding until 23:00. I’m going to have to work this out incredibly carefully… This bar has more of the Dogfish Head 90 on tap. I treat myself to a couple, before they sling me out. Ceremoniously - if that’s even a thing.

    Near my gate there’s a ‘Corona Beach House’ which is at least open until 22:00. I um and ah - Corona is a long way from my favourite beer, but needs must. I grab a seat at the bar, and - joy! They have a wine list, a cocktail menu, and more of that Dogfish Head 90. I decline the beer - I feel a bit full anyway. Mojito please! Oooh, and then a Stormy Daniels. No, that’s not right. A Dark and Stormy. Yes, that’s more like it.

    21:50
    More Dark and Stormy please.

    22:35
    This is one of the things I adore about US airports. I spend a brilliant half hour chatting to… Nope. Can’t remember his name. He’s from Canada, but lives in Miami. He’s on his way home to Toronto, and gives me some great advice about stuff to do in Toronto itself, in Manitoba, in Vancouver when I/we finally get there. We both spend a little while marvelling at the upwards filled pints (see video), which is one of the coolest things I think I’ve ever seen.

    He (nameless) has to leave t get his flight. That’s fine. I can keep myself company with my Darks and Stormies. I’m just settling into my book, when the next guy along the guy interrupts me. He’s Walker - a 22 year old who’s on his way to Brazil for a month. He’s that rarity in the US - a youngster who actually want’s to leave the country. I buy him a beer, he buys me a D+S, and we talk about the evils of capitalism. I’m both jealous of his trip, and excited to steal some ideas for my, Vicki and Tam’s trip later this year. I ask him, as I seem incapable of not doing, of his voting intentions in November. He was pissed off not to be old enough last time around. He’s gay, and should feel like a Democrat vote is his only tangible option. I’m concerned to hear that this politically active kid is barely interested in the election, due largely to Biden’s:

    1) age
    2) senility
    3) luke warm position on traditionally Democrat views

    If the Dems can’t pick up this kid to vote for them, they might just be fucked.

    The bar kicks us out as advertised at 22:00. I hug Walker goodbye, and head round to the departure gate. Hey - at least it’s air-conditioned.

    23:55
    Boarded, and furnished with my glass of bubbles. I’m determined to sleep for as long as I possibly can. But I’m also hungry, and want some food.

    QUANDARIES.
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 14

    Day 14 - Livin’ on Key West Time

    15 Mei, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    17:00
    I’m sad to leave my little enclave in Homestead. It’s such a blissful and chilled out place to spend time. Onwards though, to the Keys. I’d be lying if I said I really knew anything about the Keys, except that it’s where a lot of the South American drugs bound for the US are landed, and there’s a lot of fishing to be done there. I’m up in good time, and on the road by 08:30. I decide to head straight down to Key West, at the very tip of the Keys archipelago, and home to the southernmost point of the continental United States.

    The traffic’s a little clunky getting out of Homestead and Florida City, but after a few miles, I’m into an easy, fast cruise. It’s about 150 miles, all the way along the venerable US Highway 1 - the 2,370 mile road that runs the entire length of the eastern seaboard of the US. It’s been my constant companion for the past week, and ends at Key West. There’s nothing standout about the drive, but that doesn’t detract from my enjoyment of it. The Keys are a bustling community, and I spend a great couple of hours watching the world go by as I cruise on by. ‘Towns’ here are really just collections of buildings alongside the highway, intersected by giant road bridges between the islands. I won’t pretend that I’m not slightly entranced by it. Even the Sat Nav keeps me entertained - there's something strangely hypnotic seeing the road on which you're travelling stretch for miles, but with only water on either side of you. Likewise, the view of the road bridges stretching out for miles in front of the car is unfamiliar, but inviting.

    Arriving into Key West, I’m both hungry and thirsty. There’s a seafood place called Eaton’s Seafood Market that I’ve read good things about, so head there for some lunch, and a massively needed beer. They deliver on both fronts. I have a crab-cake sandwich, some stellar onion rings, and a quite pokey hazy IPA that gives me just a little bit of a a haze.

    Key West is an interesting town. My good friend Jolene has described it as ‘New Orleans but with old people.’ I’ve not been to New Orleans, but somehow understand exactly what she means. I suspect in the height of Summer, and over a weekend, this place is a wild ride. Here and now, before the Summer season really kicks off, it’s a slightly circumspect experience. There are countless golf buggies on the roads, and I've seen several hire shops around the town. I can't believe the DUI rules are any different to driving a standard car or truck, so I'm not entirely sure what the point is. This is what Google's for. *HOLD PLEASE CALLER*

    Ah, ok - so it's partly because a lot of the roads in Key West are quite narrow (to which I can attest) and that parking is limited (to which I can also attest), ergo - golf buggies.

    I set off to find the southernmost point of the USA, and find…. a queue. There are about 50 people queueing to take a picture next to the monument. I mean - I guess it’s a thing if you’re not from here, but I enjoy taking pictures of the people taking pictures. There are a couple of other places I’d wanted to check out while I was in town, but there are reports of rain-storms coming in later, and I don’t particularly fancy a long drive in the rain, so set off for Key Largo. I meet some rain, but it’s hardly a patch on the torrential experiences I had back in Virginia (which feels like an eon ago, by the way) and by the time I’m arriving into Key Largo, it’s sunshine all the way.

    I find my accommodation easily enough, and am pleasantly surprised. I’ve got a large, one bedroom apartment, with a balcony overlooking the marina. It’s lovely. I settle down with a much deserved glass of wine, and take the load off.

    21:00

    I head out around 18:00, conscious that I’ve not eaten much today, and have limited supplies at my apartment. Bizarrely / irritatingly, the place I want to get to is 20m from my apartment. It is, however, on the other side of the Marina, and there’s no obvious bridge across which to pass. I briefly consider swimming across, but end up walking the long way around, which is c. 20 minutes. It’s still hot, even though the sun is kissing the horizon. I arrive somewhat sweaty, and urgently in need of a beer. The beer is quickly sorted. I’ve no idea what it is, beyond a very pleasant IPA. I order another, and perhaps a third. The menu deserves a peruse, so I indulge it. There’s a cracking sounding grouper special, so I jump in. It’s fab. Grouper is redolent of cod, but with more flavour, and better texture. I very fondly remember having ‘grouper fingers’ in the Bahamas about 35 years ago, which my Dad rechristened groper fingers - obvs. These days they’d be called grouper goujons, and be thrice as expensive. The fourth beer is the one that really hits the spot.

    I briefly consider popping to the downstairs bar, where there’s some half decent live music playing, but am conscious that I’m jaded, and rapidly approaching refreshed. I check the IPA details on the way out. It’s an 8.2% whopper. Of course it is. I walk (rather than stumble) back to my apartment, which is deliciously frosty, and grab a beer from the fridge, the last of the six pack I bought on about day 2 of my trip. My only fixed plan tomorrow is to be at Miami Airport by 18:00, and the airport’s only a couple of hours away…
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 13

    Day 13 - See ya later, alligator

    14 Mei, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    19:30
    I’m awake at 04:45. I was asleep fairly early last night, so it’s no surprise. I feel like I’ve slept well, and have more than enough time for a nap later if the urge takes me. I head out for some breakfast, to a Puerto Rican place. Huevos Rancheros with Tostones and Refried Beans. It’s banging. The tostones are a revelation. They’re made from green plantain, grated, and then fried like a hash-brown. Delicious. The refried beans are also awesome. I think most folks in the UK think of these as bland, stodgy goop. These are anything but. Texture, bite, tons of flavour.

    I head North about 30 miles to Coopertown for an airboat ride through the Everglades. It’s only 10:00 when the boat sets off, but the sun is already hot., so much so that I’ve covered myself in SPF50 for the ride. The noise of the airboat is really something. The best way I can describe it is like a hovercraft without the inflatable skirt. We move through the wetlands at close to 50mph, and as low down to the water as we are, it feels every bit of it. Our boat pilot, John, stops occasionally to talk us through this incredible habitat. I’m surprised to learn that the Everglades is neither swamp, nor (strictly speaking) a wetlands, but rather the slowest moving river in the world, flowing at around 1/2 mile per day. It’s a vibrant ecosystem, teeming with wildlife. Alligators are the star attraction, but there are interesting species of fish, birds, turtles and terrapins, otters, bears, panthers… I mean - we see very little of it at 50mph, but we’re assured it’s there…

    We do spot a ‘gator during the trip. He’s a big guy, around 4m long. We try not to disturb him, but he turns, and starts swimming towards the boat - right around the time John is telling us that the alligators can climb into the boat if they wish. I involuntarily flinch. The ‘gator decides against it though, and swims away from us. He’s a gnarly looking creature. Certainly wouldn’t want to get on the wrong side of him. This will sound weird though. They don’t have *quite* the same evil look as crocodiles. I suspect I’d lose a fight against either, but crocs just look at you like they can see you naked, on a spit-roast, over a BBQ. Alligators look to me to be slightly more benign. The only way I can rationalise this (bear with me, I’ve given this quite a lot of thought) is that alligators’ teeth have evolved to settle into their upper and lower jaws when their mouth is closed. Crocodiles’ teeth have not - they stick out of the mouth when the mouth is closed. I think it’s the lack of overt teeth that makes the alligator seem like the kind of cuddly, misunderstood teddy-bear that I’ve somehow forced myself to believe.

    It’s 11:00 by the time I get back on the road, and I head South West to Flamingo, a tiny community at the very southern tip of the main Florida peninsula. The drive through the Everglades is quite hypnotic - long, straight roads, and at one point I don’t see another car for 45 minutes. I stop to walk a couple of short trails along the way. I’m hopeful of seeing some more wildlife, but am cruelly denied. The ecosystem is beautiful to look at, but I’d have liked to have encountered a few more species.

    I have a wander around Flamingo, and grab a very decent Cuban sandwich for lunch, along with a much needed beer. The restaurant is part of a new development, with lodging. I suspect (hope) it’s only recently opened, as I’m the only customer when I arrive. An additional 3 people arrive while I’m there. It’s hardly buzzing. Memorial Day weekend is coming up in a couple of weeks, so hopefully they’ve got a bit more business coming their way soon.

    My sandwich and beer have left me sleepy. It’s an easy cruise back to my AirBnB, where a nap beckons. I wake up at 17:00 - but only just. I could quite happily have slept on. I decide that a dip in the hot-tub will help wake me up. It does. I briefly consider going out into Homestead, but decide to take it easy this evening. I’ve got beers and wine to finish before I fly home on Thursday, and they won’t drink themselves…
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 12

    Day 12 - Down in the Everglades

    13 Mei, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    16:30
    I wake up around 08:00, having had a brilliant sleep. Definitely for the best to have a quiet day yesterday. By 09:30, I’m packed, on the road, and heading due West out of Miami. This morning’s drive will fully take me from the Atlantic over to the Gulf of Mexico. The drive is a fast, straight one. I count perhaps 3 slight curves to the road in 2 hours and 120 miles - other than that, arrow straight.

    I arrive into Naples, and head South along the coast, arriving into a tiny place called Goodland around midday. It has a bar/restaurant, a bait shop, and that’s about it. I decide my stomach is up to being fed, so park up and head into the bar. A pint of an American Pale Ale (APA) called Reef Donkey to whet my whistle, and a Mahi Mahi sandwich. The beer’s excellent, and the sandwich even better. I’ve had Mahi Mahi before, but it’s never been this good. The fish is blackened with Cajun spices, and hard grilled. It’s delicious - incredibly moist, incredibly tasty. Critically, it ‘settles’ well in my stomach. I spend a fun half hour chatting to some of the bar regulars. I genuinely think this might be a hangout for retired wise guys. There are regular references to ‘Jimmy the Fish,’ who sounds calamitous at best. They also talk about someone called ‘Tough Tony’ who I *think* has recently died. They all sound like they’re from the Bronx, and they’re all getting very excited watching a Yankee game on the TV. Mindful that I might get whacked if I’m not careful, I settle my bill, and scarper.

    The drive back East is fairly uneventful. I’m staying in a town called Homestead, about 30 miles South West of Miami, about 90 minutes drive from Goodland. I stop along the way to see what is claimed to be the smallest Post Office in the USA. It’s smaller than the garden shed I had in Crawley, so I can believe this to be true. I stop at the hugely misleading Shark Valley, where there are no sharks. I take a short walk along the the Shark Valley loop, but quickly realise the sun is properly hot. It’s a 15 mile loop, so I suspect I’d not quite make it all the way round before expiring. There’s a tram tour, but not for another 2 hours. I’ll come back tomorrow…

    I arrive into Homestead around 15:45. My AirBnB is AWESOME. A really lovely space, and very considerately appointed by the owners. I’d stay here and write more, but the room has a hot-tub, and it’s calling to me… I shall repair there, along with a glass of the fab red wine the hosts have given me. Catch up tomorrow…
    Baca lagi

  • Hari 11

    Day 11 - Brown Town : Population, 1

    12 Mei, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    21:00
    My day starts well. I’m up in decent time, and head out around 08:00, heading to South Beach. The drive over to the beach is pretty spectacular. The road bridges around this part of Florida are wild, spanning, in some cases, miles and miles of roadway right down by the water. This one’s a couple of miles long, and deposits me into the heart of the Bay Harbour Islands. I park up, and find a great diner for breakfast. It’s a proper Airstream trailer place, and has tons of character. The breakfast is awesome as well.

    After breakfast, I head for the beach. The sand is such a bright white, and incredibly fine. Vicks sent me a picture of Brighton Beach yesterday, and the difference in underfoot conditions couldn’t be greater. I spot an absolutely pristine 2nd Gen Pontiac Firebird. If you’ve seen Smokey and the Bandit, you’re in the right territory. The Art Deco architecture is beautiful, and the streets are bursting with bars and restaurants. It’s supposed to be quite a sight at night, but I’ll save that for a trip back to Miami with Vicki.

    I head back to my apartment to drop off the car, ahead of going to a baseball game. I don’t feel great though. A quick trip to the bathroom (and I do mean quick…) is required, and it appears the brown rains have arrived. Immediately, I put it down to something I’ve eaten, but Vicki sensibly points out that I’ve spent a LOT of time in the sun/heat over the past couple of days, and both days have been quite boozy. Her lucid explanation makes quite a lot of sense. I sack off the baseball game, not feeling quite confident enough to leave the safety blanket of a cold room, and a close toilet. I’d also planned to see Dre, along with his other half, Maria, and his three sons later this afternoon, but decide against this in as:

    a) I feel pretty rubbish, and
    b) I don’t want to take a chance that I might have picked up a bug along the way

    I sleep for a good 3 hours in the afternoon, and wake up feeling, if not better, then at least a little less shocking.

    I spend the evening watching movies and chilling out. I’ve been on the road, and pretty manic for the past 10 days, so maybe I just need a slow day, and a bit of a rest.

    Around 21:30, I decide to head back to snooze, and hope I’m not awake before dawn…
    Baca lagi

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