Germany 2017

Petualangan 40-sehari oleh Cathy Baca selengkapnya

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Awal trip
29 Mei 2017
Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
Along the Canal: the RegnitzRadweg
29 Mei 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
Today's ride took us along the Main Donau Canal from Bamberg to Nuremberg. The canal roughly follows the Regnitz River but we chose the canal route, it was 10 klm shorter! Rain this morning until about 11 but it was a nice change from the heat of the last few days. We've got 2 nights in Nuremberg and this is our first experience of Airbnb. Great little apartment a couple of kilometres from the centre of town. Our own apartment gives us a chance to check out the local supermarket and use the washing machine (a good idea after riding in the rain).
Stats for the day: 68.8 KM, averaging 16.9. Church bells have just started to ring!Baca selengkapnya
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Checking out Nuremberg
31 Mei 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
No riding today so I suppose you'd call it a rest day. Local public transport got us out to the "Documentation Centre Nazi Party Rally Grounds". Nuremberg was the centre for the huge party rallies and one part of an unfinished congress hall is now an amazing information centre about the rise of nazism and the Nuremberg trials. One of the photos shows part of the unfinished congress centre. Other photos show an amazing fountain in one of the old town squares, part of the castle wall almost growing out of the rock and the view from our window. Lots more to see here for sure, but we ride on tomorrow.Baca selengkapnya
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On to the Romantische Strasse
2 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Yesterday we got a train from Nuremberg to Donauworth and joined one of the main bike tourist trails, the Romantische Strasse. Our first night on the trail was to Nordlingen. An amazing little town that still has a complete town wall, inside the wall is the old town, with some tiny houses built into the wall. It's all cobble stones and historic building and quaint little squares. Then as soon as you go outside the wall, regular suburbia, the first thing I noticed as we rode out this morning was Macca's. Riding along the Romantische Strasse is superb, classic little villages, rolling green hills and farm land. The path is a mixture of back roads, occasionally dirt farm tracks and paved bike paths through the fields. Tonight we're in Feuchtwangen, hoping there aren't too many church bells here. Last night there were 2 sets of church bells and a cuckoo clock, no need for an alarm clock in this part of the world.
The aerial photo is of Nordlingen, front cover of a brochure, then our guest house in Nordlingen. Tonight Jan needed the help of a very large beer to work out what was on the menu. The "totem" poles are in the centre of some of the small villages we pass through. We haven't found out what they are yet but we'll work it out.
Weather forecast for tomorrow is not good, thunder storms so we better get on the road early.Baca selengkapnya
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To Rothenburg ob der Tauber
3 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Not a long ride today but quite a hill on the way to Rothenburg on the Tauber River. Trusty navigator found a great spot for morning tea on a terrace looking down on our route. We'd done the hill by then and could see the beautiful run down the other side. There's a wind farm off in the distance here but mostly we see huge solar panels. Most farm building seem to be covered in panels, perhaps that says something about the climate, lots of sun, no wind. That's certainly been our experience. We arrived in Rothenburg to find the town taken over by a big festival, it's a long weekend here. Luckily we were staying about 5K out of town in a small village so hoping for a quiet night, although there is a rooster in the yard next door. Of course Jan can't resist a festival so she rode back into town to join in the fun while I had a quiet afternoon. An easy 42 K today with an extra 10 for JanBaca selengkapnya
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Along the Tauber
4 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
We headed back into Rothenburg and through the old town yesterday. The festival was still in full swing with bands playing, locals wandering around in costumes and throngs of tourists. Then we followed the path back onto the Tauber River. The ride was the best yet, a gorgeous valley and interesting encounters along the way. We stopped on a bridge to take a photo of a little chapel and a local out for a walk stopped to chat. In Creglingen we stopped for lunch, the town was eerily quiet, everyone was in Rothenburg, but we found a great little cafe, Michelangelo's, perfect hot chocolate and apple strudel. Before we left other cyclists had followed our lead so we were good for business.
Even the wildlife was interesting; big white snails creeping across the path.
Afternoon tea was in Weikersheim in a tranquil town square. Around the square were a series of gold statues, the photo probable doesn't do them justice. The tranquility was shattered when the weekend piping school got back to work after their break. Imagine a dozen or so bagpipe players practicing in a castle courtyard.
Only about 60K but we had such a great day we didn't get here to Bad Mergentheim until after 5.Baca selengkapnya
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Relaxing at the Bad, and on to the Main
6 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Yesterday was our day off in Bad Mergentheim, a spa town, so of course we had to check it out. To get to the spa complex we walked through the Kurpark, (I think this translates as Cure Park), a tranquil garden with water features, music and as you can see the beginning of a Nordic walking trail. No jogging here. We spent a couple of hours relaxing in hot pools, being massaged by water jets and generally having a fine time. Part of the complex is also a regular indoor pool with water slides, so when we were totally relaxed it was time to join the kids and go down the water slides, great fun. It was Jan's first time on a water slide, there's no stopping her now.
Today was our last day on the Romantische Strasse, we were sorry to leave it, it's been fantastic. We encountered the character in the photo along the way, no idea what it was about.
We were heading back to the Main River so there was quite a climb from the Tauber valley. We're staying in Veitshocheim, just a few kilometres along the river from Wurzburg, but we decided a short cut was in order. A muddy farm track and a hair raising run down hill beside a busy road got us here.
Stormy weather threatened all day but we managed to miss it, the only time it rained was when we were browsing in a bike shop.
Electric bikes are all the go here, we see a lot out on the trail, and the shop had a huge range. Some towns have a charging station at the tourist information centre.Baca selengkapnya
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The bend in the Main
7 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
We chose the long route, following the Main from just north of Wurstburg then north to Gemunden, then the river turns south. We're now at Markheidenfeld after a 70 K ride. The highlight of the day was watching the progress of a cruise boat through a lock. The passengers must get used to groups of cyclist staring down at them as they go through. Today was cold and showery so only a couple of hardy souls were out on the front deck. We did like the mini golf set up on the deck, I wonder how many balls go overboard. All the deck chairs and sunshades are folded down, I assume to go under the bridge unless it was too cold for deck games today. It's a tight fit as it goes through, good steering!
The showers today meant the wet weather gear came out a bit although it never lasted long. Tomorrow the weather clears.
Our room tonight looks out over the river, too cold to eat at the restaurant next door though so we opted for a cosy establishment around the corner.Baca selengkapnya
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Getting to Stuttgart
9 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Our last day on the Main was an easy ride to Wertheim, then the train to Stuttgart. Changing trains in Laud was tricky, the timetable said we had 4 minutes! It didn't work, the small train from Wertheim had steep steps, hard to get bikes up and down and there was a rush of people trying to get on as we got off. So we spent a quiet couple of hours in Laud waiting for the next train.
Navigating from the station to our Pension, only a couple of kilometres, needed a lot of help from google maps, a major construction site in front of the station had as heading off in the wrong direction.
Susanne, Greg, Nathan and Rubin arrived to meet us about 5 minutes after we got here. Fantastic to see them. We did a quick tour of the city centre, then had a great meal of local specialties. Nathan was a big help translating the menu and advising us on local specialties.Baca selengkapnya
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Learning more about Swabian specialties
9 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Visited the family in Scharnhauser Park today, 20 minutes by U Bahn from our hotel. Nathan treated us to a "Swabian Adventure Cake" for afternoon tea, then Greg showed us all around the area. The suburb was developed on the site of an old US military base. Wonderful open spaces and extensive cycling and walking paths and a unique kids play ground. The sculpture of the rabbits and the carrot is quite stunning, so unexpected out in the middle of the field.

Thanks to Nathan, Rubin, Susanne and Greg for a wonderful time in Stuttgart. Hope to see you all in Melbourne sometime soon.Baca selengkapnya
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Tourists in Stuttgart
9 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Our excellent tour guides showed us the highlight of Stuttgart today. First stop was the Mercedes-Benz museum, covering 130 years of German automotive history. It was a wonderful display of cars, such works of art, and fascinating history. For those inclined I'm sure the tech story was just as good. One of my favourites in the room of celebrity cars was the Popemobile, the old fire engine and the London bus also. Then it was on to the Bibliotheque, the Municipal library, a stunning building. Then a gentle stroll through the cemetery and coffee (ice cream, hot chocolate ....) in Schlossplatz. For a couple of members of our group the purchase of fidget spinners was also a winner. We ended the day with a tour of the coveted market.Baca selengkapnya
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Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
On and on down the Neckar
12 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We left Stuttgart yesterday and headed off along our next river, the Neckar. We were in for a long hot day, 79 K to Heilbronn. The bike path was very busy, everyone was out to enjoy the sun. The beer gardens along the route were especially popular but we stuck to mineral water when we stopped about 11am. Lots of vineyard up the steeper sides of the river. We found a very fine Japanese restaurant for dinner, no Swabian options around here.

We headed out this morning through building sites and industrial areas but we soon left that behind. It was a much cooler day and despite the early clouds no rain, so a beautiful days ride. We chose to stay in Hirschhorn just because it was a good distance but it's a beautiful little town. Of course we had to climb up the tower at the top of the hill, great view.Baca selengkapnya
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Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
With the tourists in Heidelberg
13 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Just a short ride today, 48K, the last day on the Neckar River. We planned to spend a few hours in Heidelberg along the way. A beautiful ride to Heidelberg although a lot of the path was a bit rough. Heidelberg was a bit of a shock, it was overrun with tourist, swarming around in big groups following tour guides, with their cruise boat backpacks on. All the shady spots at coffee shops were taken. So different from the other places we've been. Anyway, we found the map shop we were looking for, then headed up to the castle on the funicular. Once we were up there it all looked much better, relaxing under the trees in the Schloss garden and looking down on the city.

The last 20K into Mannheim was a bit mundane and Mannheim itself is not too attractive, however it's the start of our next river, the Rhine.Baca selengkapnya
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Adventures on the Rhein
14 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Mannheim, were the Neckar joins the Rhine, was really just a place to stay before the next river. The hotel proprietor came out to chat this morning and gave us some good advice about the best way out of town. This involved following the last bit of the Neckar, then getting a small ferry across to get onto the right side of the Rhine. A very small ferry, we were the only passengers for its first trip of the day at 10am. It cost all of 50 cents each.

We then wanted to cross to the left side, the route on that side was shorter so we were hoping the next bridge had a cycle crossing. We were in luck. All we had to do was climb up 3 flights of steps inside the bridge pylon to come out onto a bike path along side the road. Then of course it was back down the steps in the pylon on the other side. A handy sign at the top of the steps advised Radfahrer to dismount. The photo looks back to Mannheim from the top of the bridge, we had finally got past the industrial area. The main town of interest on the way today was Worms, old cathedral built in about 1100, many additions and rebuilds since then I think.

When we weren't beside the river today we were riding through vineyards. Now we're in a small town called Nachenheim, not far from Mainz. Much nicer to be staying in a small town.Baca selengkapnya
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Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
Battling Bikies in Bingen
15 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
We discovered when we left Nackenheim this morning that the public holiday today is a religious festival, Corpus Christi. Little altars had appeared in doorways and on front steps overnight. This one was in front of the parish office. Church bells were full on this morning as well. We headed on to Mainz where the Main River joins the Rhine. A rather shabby sign at this point describes the water way from the Main through to the Mediterranean, 2000+ kilometres. I think Jan is pondering the challenge.

Being a public holiday meant that the bike path was crowded, the day was hot and everyone was out for some sun. There were picnickers, riders of all ages, cars trying to find parking spaces, just generally hectic. We were heading for Rudesheim, then crossing the river by ferry to Bingen. Bingen is famous for being the birthplace of Hildegard of Bingen, 11 century philosopher and poet. In Rudesheim we planned to check out some of the sites related to Hildegard before getting the ferry.

However we discovered that a festival of motor bikes, Harley's etc. had taken over Rudesheim. The noise was deafening, there must have been hundreds of bikes there. They're apparently planning to stay for a long weekend. We opted to get the ferry asap.

The bikies had booked out the town so we're in an AirBnB just out of Bingen, a great little spot up the hill a bit. So of course dinner tonight was at the restaurant at the local winery. The specialty of the day puzzled us a bit but the owner talked it up. It turned out to be potatoes and boiled eggs with a special sauce, yoghurt and herbs. Surprisingly good, and the white wine was very nice. Red wine was a bit bland though.

Here's hoping for a quieter day on the river tomorrow and as it's a short day, time to find out more about Hildegard before we leave Bingen.Baca selengkapnya
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Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
Hildegard and Castles: busy on the Rhine
16 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We started the day with some time in the Museum in Bingen learning all about Hildegard of Bingen. She seems like quite a character, a prolific writer and significant political player. Next to the museum was a small herb garden with all the medicinal plants used in her time, and described in her books.

Then we set off along the river again, it's this section of the river that is famous for the castles.

There is a rail line down each side of the river with long freight trains going in both direction all day, as well, there are freight barges going up and down on the river, against the backdrop of the castles on the ridge tops. Amazing!

There are no bridges across the river between Mainz and Koblenz, about 200k by bike, so as well as the tourists boats and barges going up and down there are also cross river ferries. It's busy out there.

The map of the route has interesting advertising, the anti inflammatory drug Voltaren is advertised on the cover. A helpful message for tired cyclists.

"Rest day" tomorrow, time to go and visit the local castle.Baca selengkapnya
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Burg Rheinfels: the castle
17 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
This is the largest castle on the Rhine, just a short climb from our hotel. Spectacular views of the river and a beautiful walk down. I headed across the river this afternoon on the local ferry to get to the supermarket, there isn't one on the side.Baca selengkapnya
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One ladt castle: Marksburg
18 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We rode onto to Boppard this morning, then crossed the river on another little ferry to visit Marksburg castle. This one was never conquered or destroyed so although it's not big it was interesting, we did the guided tour with an English speaking guide, and picked up lots of trivia. Did you know there were 25,000 castles in Germany?

Then on to Koblenz, where the Mosel river joins the Rhine. At the confluence, a point known as Deutsches Eck, there is a huge statue of Emperor Wilhelm 1, who died in 1888. If you look carefully you will see Jan up there on the side.

Just another note of interest: these cigarette vending machines are very common. In small villages with no shops you will always see a vending machine.Baca selengkapnya
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Cruising the Rhine
19 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
After a 70K ride to Bonn we decided to get a boat for the last 10K to Cologne, so at least I can say I've cruised the Rhine. An earlier plan had been to ride about 40 or 50 K then get a train but it was a perfect day, tailwind all the way so we just kept going.
We had a picnic lunch by the river, watching the boats go by.
Lots of big industrial stuff along the last bit but finally we got our first glimpse of the Dom. Now we're in the big city!

After the industrial start in Mannheim we weren't sure how we'd find the Rhine but we've loved it.

Some info about freight along the river from an information board beside the path: CO2 for per ton and kilometres of freight moved: 38 for a river barge, 164 for a truck.

Anyone trying to work out the weird German word in the last heading, actually it was a typo, meant to be last.Baca selengkapnya
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The Dom and the Chocolate Museum
20 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Very hot in Cologne today so we were on the look out for cool places to visit. The burial crypt of the bishops in the Cathedral was good, and the Chocolate Museum. Not everything was working at the museum and it was too hot to buy any chocolate but it was cool.Baca selengkapnya
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Across Germany by train
21 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We left Cologne a bit after 9 this morning and after 2 changes of train we arrived safely in Berlin and navigated successfully to Pension Ingeborg, about 5K from the Hauptbahnhof. We have the purple room. It is a very small Pension on the 4th floor of an apartment building. The lift, we are told is 100 years old, but everything else is quite modern.
We now plan to cram as much as we can into 3 days. Unfortunately our booking to visit the Bundestag has been cancelled, no reason just a cancellation email.Baca selengkapnya
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Germany 2017 Cathy Mead
Stasiland
22 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Yesterday we visited the Stasi remand prison and the Stasi museum. The prison, Hohenschonhausen, was in the middle of high security compound that wasn't marked on maps, just a blank. We were fortunate to have a researcher at the complex as our English language guide, she doesn't very often do tours. She was able to talk to us a bit about research they are doing with former inmates as well as researching documentation. Some of the former inmates are now guides.

Then we went onto the Stasi museum, in the former headquarters building. The director's office was still as it was when the building was sealed after the wall came down. On other floors there were detailed exhibitions about how the surveillance system worked.

I walked the long way home along Kurfürstendamm, met these 2 bears along the way. Apparently bears are not uncommon in Berlin.
Kurfürstendamm is a very upmarket shopping strip, so just window shopping for me!Baca selengkapnya
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Berlin zoo and riding the Wall
23 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I chose a trip to the zoo today, Jan opted for a ride along the Berlin Wall bike trail. I wanted to compare the zoo with ours. As you can see from the photos there are good close ups, but it's smaller. No safari park for the Rhino. I also had a short ride through the Tiergarten. And a bit of shopping to do, so I found the biggest mall, the Mall of Berlin, complete with giant slide if your in a hurry to get down to the ground floor.Baca selengkapnya
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A ride in the country
24 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We rode another section of the wall trail today, getting the train out of town for a ride in the country. Most of the old wall area out here is a forested green belt now, mostly good path but occasionally a bit rough. For a bit we rode along beside the Havel Canal, built by the east to get around that part of the Havel River that went through the west. Of course, being a weekend it wasn't hard to find a beer garden/cafe in a shady spot beside the canal. At another spot we found a small fruit stall so we could supplement our lunch.

Along the way we stopped to read stories about the communities along the border. There was one story about a school boy reporting that he'd been arrested by border guards on his way to school, so the British occupying force set up a patrol system to escort kids to school near the border. It came out decades later that the boy had been wagging school and needed an excuse.

The path got a bit rough coming back into the city, cobble stones are a great traffic calming device.Baca selengkapnya
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Obstacles on the way to the Elbe
26 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We were late leaving our Pension in Berlin, then we had to go to the Hauptbahnhof to organise train tickets to Dessau on the Elbe river. The Hbf in Berlin is big, Mary would love it, 16 platforms on several different levels. Jan managed to work out how to buy tickets from the machine, easy getting ours but it wasn't clear how to get the bike tickets. Our train went from platform 13, the lifts to this platform weren't working, so it's up 2 flights of stairs, luggage on and off the bike, bikes are too heavy fully loaded to carry them up the stairs.

Finally on the train. Dessau looks very drab, particularly the Bahnhof. We find a bike shop with a pump outside so we manage to pump up our tyres, finally on our way about 3pm. No problem only 40k to go. At last we get to the river, a gorgeous covered bridge, things are looking up. And then a Biergarten, even better, of course beer gardens also have tea and cake.

There had been a big thunderstorm a few nights ago, lots of trees down. A couple of times we had to take the bags off to get over or around the fallen logs.

Ferries across the Elbe work on an interesting cable system, they're slow and only take a few vehicles, but there are usually more bikes than cars. This one was nicely decorated with pot plants. Only 3 Euros for 2 plus bikes.

We had to ring up to get directions to our accomodation in Wittenberg, a cruise boat doing a stint as a hotel before cruising again in September. We had passed it but didn't realise it was the one, we didn't have a name on the booking sheet, and we thought the one we passed looked too grand.

Then at last, a beer on the top deck of course, while we pretend we're cruising. We even had dinner on the boat rather than go into town looking for the cheap eats. The current was so strong that if you didn't look to closely at the far bank you could imagine you're moving. A great ride once we got going and a lovely evening.Baca selengkapnya
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2 days on the Elbe
28 Juni 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
After the end of our "cruise" we made our way through the town of Wittenberg. Martin Luther is big here and 2017 is an important anniversary year, so the town was buzzing with tourists, at least 10 tour buses were parked just outside the old town. The town recently changed its name to Lutherstadt-Wittenberg.

It was a long day to Torbau, about 74K, but we got to know the character of the river. It meanders through the valley, lots of billabong and side streams. It is very prone to flooding and there are flood levees all over the valley. Towns don't have river fronts, they're behind the levees. Consequently our path meanders and we only see the river occasionally. Many of the towns favour cobble stones, very hard to ride on.
Our host in a small Pension liked to chat so we heard a lot about how life had changed since the "change", reunification.
Torbau is an important renaissance town, as well as another important Luther town, apparently he visited 40 times.
Our afternoon tea stop on the way to Torbau was at a Schloss cafe, obviously the only cafe in this little town.

After Torbau we headed off to Reisa. Nothing special about it, just the right distance before Dresden.
Thunderstorms were forecast, but just as the downpour started Jan spotted a restaurant that had been advertising along the route. It proved to be a huge dark empty venue, however they were happy to get us a drink. We were the only ones there until another cyclist came in to shelter from the rain so we had a fine chat over tea and beer, then headed off after the rain cleared. Another storm came about 10k from our destination, this time we found a picnic shelter.

We found the Irish Pub in Reisa for dinner tonight, very nice, rated the best restaurant in town.
We are used to seeing cigarette vending machines but outside the bike shop here is vending machine for tubes. I'm not sure what that says about the paths around here. Lots of empty shops in the Hauptstrasse, the town has seen better days.Baca selengkapnya
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