Japan Trip 2017

October - November 2017
A 20-day adventure by Kristofor Read more
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  • 2countries
  • 20days
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  • 7videos
  • 18.2kkilometers
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  • Day 10

    A Day at Miyajima Island

    October 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Nat and I agreed that today was probably our favourite place in Japan so far. We spent the vast majority of it at Itsukushima, more commonly known as Miyajima Island about 45 minutes from Hiroshima.

    The day didnt start great, it was one of those mornings where you're late and everything seems to be going wrong. We'd heard that the closest typhoon had diverted away from us, but nonetheless the rain was relentless. We trudged through it on foot, train and ferry to get to Miyajima island.

    Miyajima Island is widely regarded as one of the most scenic spots in Japan, a sacred spot on the beautiful Seto Inland Sea. It is known for its forests and ancient temples. Just offshore, the giant, orange Grand Torii Gate is partially submerged at high tide. It marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine, which was first built in the 12th-century. 

    The downpour and sticky humid weather conditions made our first couple hours here a bit uncomfortable. Fortunately however, as we finished exploring the Itsukushima Shrine (mostly indoors), the rain eased and clouds lightened. From this point on the day just continued to improve.

    After a curry tonkatsu lunch, our destination was up towards the summit of Mount Misen. First to Momijidani Park where a couple of ropeways would take us some of the way. This park itself was a pretty place with wild deer roaming freely about. The whole island is actually full of them, even about the town and market by the ferry terminal. They walk around with impunity, looking for anything they can eat (including train passes). They have no objection to being touched and zero fear of people. They are still very gentle.

    The cable car took two stops first a small car to Kayatani station and then a second larger one to Shishiiwa. We took this journey with our Swiss group companions Matthais and Sabrina. Whilst Shishiiwa station itself offered spectacular enough viewing, there was now a further steep 30-40 minute walk to the summit of Mount Misen, a World Cultural Heritage Site. On the way we also saw the Eternal flame temple, where Kobo Daishi (Kukai) conducted a 100 day Goma fire ceremony around the year 806AD. It is said the flame that burns there today is the same, having been protected for over 1200 years.

    The summit of Mt Misen offered spectacular panoramic views of Miyajima. Nat and I decided rather than return via cable car, to hike the entire way down from summit to pier via tge forest. It was a long, steep decent but we made it back a couple hours later just before dusk.

    By the time we'd returned to the hotel there wasnt even time to really change before dinner. My feet are wrecked with blisters so I've grabbed some boot insoles from a chemist.
    Dinnee was a mixed grill affair with the group. Tonorrow we're off to Kyoto!
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  • Day 11

    Arrival in Kyoto

    October 30, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Kyoto is regarded by many as Japan's most beautiful city. It's where we'd spend the next three nights, just a short journey from Hiroshima. It took us just two bullet trains (or Shinkasen) to get there, one around 90 minutes to shin-Osaka and then after a quick change, just another 10 minutes to Kyoto proper.

    It didnt take long to be impressed by Kyoto. I'd be fairly comfortable in suggesting that the train station itself was the most awe-inspiring and inpressive train station (for architecture) I've seen anywhere in the world without a doubt. Photos dont really seem to do it justice. It was a towering open steel windowed structure 12 stories and 12 escalators tall with a sky garden terrace. The station cost 1.25 billion to construct back in 1995.. Wow. Lunch was near the top, a Ramen based foodcourt. Ramen has fast become a favorite.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon at Fushimi Inari Taisha, famed for its "thousand torii gates", amidst shrines and temples up to the summit of Mount Inari. We explored the area for a few hours, and a stroll turned to a walk to the highest viewpoint, to a hike to the summit. It was a peaceful, picturesque and tranquill place shrouded in thick forest with many nice views of the forest. Apparently wild boars live there but we didnt see any.

    We've just returned from dinner at a chicken barbeque restaurant. I tried some Asahi black and our guides favourite local beer called Yebisu. Both pretty good. My proudest discovery however was "Citris infused Plum Wine" on the rocks. Delicious. Tomorrow we have a full day exploring Kyoto before a special off tour expedition on Wednesday.
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  • Day 12

    Exploring Kyoto

    October 31, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today we had a full itinerary exploring Kyoto with our G Adventures tour. We got started with our first destination of the day, the 'Golden Pavillion' or Kinkaku-ji.

    The site of Kinkaku-ji was originally a villa called Kitayama-dai, belonging to a powerful statesman, Saionji Kintsune. Kinkaku-ji's history dates to 1397, when the villa was purchased from the Saionji family by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and transformed into the Kinkaku-ji complex.

    On July 2, 1950, at 2:30 am, the pavilion was burned down by a 22-year-old novice monk, Hayashi Yoken, who then attempted suicide on the Daimon-ji hill behind the building. He survived, and was subsequently taken into custody. The monk was sentenced to seven years in prison, but was released because of mental illnesses. Subsequently, his mother committed suicide due to the shame of her son. Grim tidings. The reconstructed building itself was spectacular though the site was the most crowded attraction we'd seen so far.

    Our next stop, the Daitokuji Busdhist Zen temple was an entirely different experience. This location was quiet and serene with little in the way of tourists. This was a large temple complex with mossy gardens and shrines aplenty. There were no photos allowed inside, but that's okay with me. It gave us a chance to sit in peace, enjoy the sun and the location. Many temples in Japan have fell victim to fire and destruction over the years but this one remains intact, exactly as it was hundreds of years ago. I really appreciated the philosophy of some of the zen pieces, so much so that Nat and opted to buy one.

    The final stop of the day was the Nijō Castle. It was built by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1601 and it the place where the shogun period started and ended. It was a really fascinating place, with some striking artwork and architecture mostly for me in the various meeting rooms of the Ninomaru Palace where feudal lords would wait to meet with the shogun. We were even fortunate enough to see a large heron in the surrounding gardens. The sun sets early in Japan and 3.30pm feels like dusk, so by the time light started to fade at 4.30 upon our exit, it was time to return to the hotel.

    We spent the evening exploring the city centre of Kyoto. Wow, what a huge place.. markets, shops, dining areas seemed to stretch for miles. Nat and I eventually decided to break off from the group and do our own thing. We found a fantastic place called Nick Stock Grill which was outstanding, with by far the best Japanese beer iv had so far, a craft beer called Nagahama IPA special. We managed to negotiate our way back to the hotel easy enough by public buses. Tomorrow we're going to use our free day to get to Himeji Castle!
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  • Day 13

    Castle and Gardens

    November 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Hopefully the wet and windy weather is behind us now. Today was a gorgeous day for our trip out to Himeji, about an hour out of Kyoto by bullet train. All went smoothly getring there, and we were at the front gates of the castle before 10am.

    The castle is regarded as the finest surviving example of prototypical Japanese castle architecture and its not hard to see why. Completef in 1618, it consists of a network of 83 buildings with advanced defensive systems from the feudal period. The most striking being the main keep, a six story, ornate, stark white structure raised on a hill that towers over the town of Himeji. It was awe inspiring to admire its magnificence on the hike up to the keep gates.

    However, getting inside the keep itself was slightly underwhelming. Shoes off, polished wooden floorboards, a lot of stairs (like everywhere) but nothing else really. Some weapon racks, a couple trap doors, and little else. So in summary, I guess Himeji is like a hollow golden peanut. Magnificent and shiny on the outside, dark and empty on the inside.

    We got through the entire castle, walls and garden in around 90 minutes without rushing. We walked back to the station via temporary (tents) and then permanent (shops) markets. The train had us back in Kyoto just before 1.
    From there, a waffle for lunch to tide us over until Arashiyama. We switched to a local JLT train and headed on our way.

    Arashiyama is a huge, popular mountainous park. It features a bamboo grove, many temples, dense forest and a monkey park. We covered a fair bit of it. Unfortunately it felt a LITTLE spoiled by excessive tourism, and the fading afternoon light (sun starts to set and fade by 2.30-3) didn't do it justice. We'd planned to grab more food here but on arrival (and pressed for time) it seemed food was pricey and exploiting tourism. We saw a poor woman get forced to pay 3000¥ ($35aud approx) for a plate of about 12 dumplings.

    We pressed on through the bamboo grove, which was dense and pretty with the afternoon sun shining through the bamboo stems. From there we veered away from the hoards of tourists into the park proper to wander around, finding a nice lookout. Some of the autumn leaves of the forest and turquoise streams were stunning.

    The last stop of the day would end up being the
    Iwatayama Monkey Park. I'd hoped to make it to the Inperial Palace by its last entry at 4 but we were here, and running out of time so settled for monkeys. It was a 20 minute hike to their hang out spot... a steep climb into the mountain. There were dozens of wild Japanese macaque (snow monkeys) living here. "Wild" in that they're completely free range/ unrestricted.. but lured here by the prospect of being fed. It was still nice to see them up close and get great views of Kyoto. The monkeys appeared in decent health at least.

    By the time we got down, back to the station and into Kyoto city again, the Imperial Palace was closed. I decided to try walk what looked around half hour to at least see its exterior but alas time, light, distance and the battered, blistered ruins of what were our feet, were against us. We headed home for a local dinner for our last night in Kyoto. Tomorrow we head towards Mount Fuji.
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  • Day 14

    Heading to Fuji

    November 2, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Not too much to report today for what was primarilly a travel day. We took a total of four trains; 1 Bullet Train, 1 Express Train and 2 Local Trains to get us from Kyoto to Lake Kawaguchiko at the base of Mount Fuji. From a distance Fuji looked a little smaller than expected but its quite stunning and imposing when you get up close.

    A shuttle from Kawaguchiko train station had us at our Japanese Ryokan hotel "Fuji Views" by around 4pm. The hotel was certainly aptly named, offering a great view of the mountain from its front doors, as well as panoramic viewing rooms on its top (6th floor) level. Our room was impressive; tatami mats, futons and a balcony. We spent the remaining hour or so of dwindling daylights walking the park around the hotel.

    We spent the evening attempting to make oragami figures before enjoying a 9 course set traditional Japanese meal - very small dishes (included in G Adventures Tour). Some was okay, but most wasnt for me. I also tried my first ever Japanese wines, a glass of red and white which were decent though I favoured the white. This hotel also has a communal bath/ spa/ onsen (which involves mass gender separated nude spas) which was a relaxing end to the day. Tomorrow will be a hiking day we hope around the base of Fuji.
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  • Day 15

    Hiking Around Fuji

    November 3, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Mount Fuji is only open for hiking in July and August each year. In lieu of hiking to the summit, there are five lakes around its base that offer spectacular alternatives. One such lake being Kawaguchiko, our hotel located right by its edge.

    Todays task would be to hike around the lake. We knew it was a big one so we set out at around 9.45am. Within minutes, in a remote spot we were stopped by a local (perhaps going fishing) who struck up a conversation. In most countries, this situation would instantly raise caution and concern - whats he going to try sell me? Whats the scam? Whens he going to ask for money? In many countries this would be a valid concern, but not Japan. He just legitimately wanted to say hello, practice his English, welcome us and wish us well. Very refreshing.

    It was a gorgeous walk with stunning views of the lake, little temples, autumn leaves and Mount Fuji itself. After an hour or so we reached the Kawaguchiko Ropeway cablecar that takes you up and back from a viewpoint at Mount Fuyimidan. The summit here offered fantastic views of Mount Fuji and the lake, as well as a cute rabbit shrine.

    Once back down by the lake we continued our walk around until we reached the town of Kawaguchi. Being a public holiday today (Cultural Day - an equivalent of Australia Day), there was a huge marketplace with food stalls and music (seems they love Jazz in Japan). We picked up some grilled corn, dumplings, chicken pieces and a kebab like thing.
    By some miracle, we managed to find a bin (extreme rarity in Japan) and continued on our walk.

    The next point of interest we found was what looked like a nursery and cafe, with a variety of plants for sale, information booth, souvenirs and snacks on offer. It wasnt far from here things got a bit less fun. So far we'd walked by the lakes edge on a path but that was about to end. Much of the kilometres to follow we'd have to basically walk on the road and it was a tight squeeze at times.

    We knew this was a big lake, but we were about to find out HOW big.. huge, giant, seemingly endless. When we arrived opposite our hotel, thinking the edge was nearby, we were wrong, water continued to stretch on and on, without being sure of where the end was. By now my feet had started to ache.. mainly due to the wear, thinned soles and lack of support on my hiking boots.

    We pressed on, and on, and on, mostly dodging or being grazed by passing cars until we finally made it to the home stretch. By now, my feet were just about ruined and not even a random can of 'Gubunomi' a green lemonade with ice cream themed.. drink from a roadside vending machine could bring relief.

    By the time we got back to the hotel it was 5.15pm, half hour or so after sunset. We'd ended up walking around 25 kilometres and about 40,000 steps. Even more than we anticipated. It was the most we'd walked all trip. By the time I'd staggered into our room my feet were a smouldering ruin of blister clusters. My ankles were swollen and I had a bizarre rash around both ankles that burned to touch.. it looked like bites. I was also sunburnt and my shoulders ached from my backpack. Still, it was well worth it for all the views, discoveries and accomplishment of the journey itself.

    Of course dinner, an hour later was a decent walk away, just what I didn't want right now. It was a small restaurant by the lake where a sole gentleman played sole host, waiter, barman and chef for 11 people. It was Italian inspired food and mostly tasty enough. Hours later I dragged myself into the Onsen and subsequently fell onto my futon with bandaged feet. A gorgeous and memorable day. Tomorrow is our last full tour day as we head back to Tokyo.
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  • Day 16

    Tour End in Tokyo

    November 4, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After almost 2 weeks, our G Adventures tour concluded, back where it started at the Candeo Hotel in Uneo, Tokyo. Just a couple trains and hours took us from the base of Mount Fuji to Tokyo.

    There wasn't too much planned for today, so after lunch our guide took us around to a few places by JR Line and Metro trains.

    Sumo was out of season, but we did head to the station and area of their competition by the stadium. Next on to the Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa, one of the oldest places in Tokyo. It felt a little cheesy and touristy here, thousands of people, 100s of souvenir stalls, selfie sticks and fast food. Some of the temple buildings were nice but cheapened by souvenir stalls inside, vending machines, a mini theme park with roller coasters metres away and nearby strip clubs and topless calendar stores. Not exactly zen aesthetic.

    We then wandered drinking spots, sidestreets and shopping areaa nearby, riding wavea of crowds. On the way back to the hotel, Nat and I opted to leave the group to explore Akhihabara Electrical Town, a massive 9 story electrical department store. If its electronic related, they've got it. It was a bit like a Dick Smith or Harvey Norman store from Australia but 1000 times bigger. There was plenty of variety, 3-4 aisles of keyboards, rice cookers, gaming merchandise, popcorn makers, whatever you could think of. There seemed as many staff as customers. Nothing here was particularly cheap though.. and the biggest most expensive TV, a 75 inch UHD Panasonic that looked good but not extraordinary came in at ¥2.7 million, or around $32,000AUD.

    With sensory and people overload a factor, we returned to the hotel before 7 to meet the Group for a farewell dinner. As we arrived there appeared to be a cluster of people or gigantic European tour group arriving. Everyone looked unhappy. Their guide came rushing up to us by mistake panting, sweating, offering excess apologies and explanations.. poor guy. Hes in for a rough tour. Fortunately for us, we'd had a relaxed, punctual group without complaints or high maintenance. Dinner was fun and delicious, we shared all sorts of meat and fish dishes as well as a pitcher or four of beer.

    Tomorrow Nat and I are on our own for a few nights in Shinjuku as our trip winds up. Still a few fun days ahead.
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  • Day 17

    Sky Views of Tokyo

    November 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I was pretty impressed with our G Adventures tour and quality of accomodation, but lets just say our transfer to Century Southern Towers was a step up or two.

    We woke this morning at Candeo Hotel and had said goodbye to Mari (our guide) at breakfast. Then we made a half hour train ride on the JR Line to our hotel for our last three nights, halfway between Shinjuku and Yoyogi stations. We had a few hours wait to checkin so we dropped our bags at the 20th floor reception and went accross the road to explore a 14 story department store. We tried our 'once off in a different country McDonalds' routine, which wasn't particularly different, noteworthy or satisfying. About the same price as back home and always crowded in Tokyo. We managed to find a Pandora shop which Nat was certainly happy about.

    Check in time! Wow. We'd booked a panoramic room @ Hotel Century Southern Tower (got a good deal) but didnt expect this. In a city famed for its 'cosy' rooms where space comes at a premium, this was absolutely huge. On the 3rd top floor at level 33, it offered two giant windows facing two directions, around a King Size bed that offered spectacular views of the city. Its the best view from a room Ive ever had anywhere in the world.

    We unpacked and jumped on the JR for half hour east to meet Matthais and Sabrina (from our tour) at the Tokyo Skytree, the second tallest building in the world behind the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. It was a good 25 minute walk from the nearest JR station, and we were unable to find our tour friends at the "suggested meeting spot" by our guide. In fact we couldn't even find a fountain. We headed up solo (4000¥ each) to catch the fading light from sunset by 5pm. It offered two viewing decks offering great views of the city, and a couple of glass panel floors. It was extremely crowded though and with the glass windows extended away from viewing platforms, crowds and reflection prevented photos doing the view any justice.

    We decended, had a quick dinner with Matthias and Sabrina, said our goodbyes, grabbed a quick custard filled, pastry thing and made haste back to the JR station to travel to Harajaku to meet Ben for drinks at a little craft brewery. Ah, Japan train efficiency, I'll miss you. Getting to Harajaku was delightfully efficient. Walking onto one train, getting off and walking onto another arriving perfectly on time. I thought we'd be 10-15 minutes late but we ended up at Harajaku 10 minutes early.

    We spent a couple hours with Ben at the Baird tap house enjoying a few very tasty craft beers. It was just one train stop back to our hotel to enjoy the night skyline views from our room before turning in.
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  • Day 18

    Mount Takao

    November 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today was the last and expiry day of our JR Rail Passes. They've served is well taking us all around the Honshu region of Japan, but we still keen to squeeze a little more value out them.

    We woke around 9 amd rather spontaneously decided to catch a train from Shinjuku station about an hour west of the Tokyo city centre to the base pf Mount Takao.

    Getting there was no problem, but whilst we'd hope to escape the surging seas of human crowds by getting into the countryside, they certainly followed us to our destination. There was 15 times the amount of people as I expected to find in a forest/mountain area on a weekday.

    Theres a cable car here (steepest in Japan) and chair lift that take you half way up the mountain. From there, theres 6 different paths up to the summit. We decided to catch the cable car first, and get chair lift on the way back. The cable car was jammed to capacity and the 6 minute ride reached a maximum steepness of 31degrees.

    At the top of the cable car we followed the crowds on the main path to the summit via Yakuo-in Temple. It was slow going with hundreds of people shambling along. We took in the views at the summit and decided to hike down to the chair lift by a different route; track 4 which went via a suspension bridge. It was much narrower, prettier and quieter.

    The chair lift itself was an experience where you have to jump on a conveyor belt at the right time and fall back onto your chair lift with no safety, security, belt or bar to hang on to. It was a pretty way to get back down and we headed back to the trains, returning to Shinjuku JR station in Tokyo by 3.

    The day wasnt to end there. After a few hours of r&r in our hotel room enjoying the views of Mount Fuji at sunset, we headed out for dinner and to explore Shibuya crossing.
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  • Day 18

    Busy Shinjuku & Shibuya

    November 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    After a few hours of r&r in our hotel room enjoying the views of Mount Fuji at sunset, we headed out for dinner and to explore Shibuya crossing. We spent a bit of time researching on Trip advisor and found the #3 (of 80000+) rated restaurant in all of Tokyo was only 15 minutes walk away in Shinjuku, and affordable. The first challenge would be finding it..

    It took a while to do so, Shinjuku station itself is huge and the streets outside bright, busy and overflowing with signs, lights and information. After a bit of exploring, we found it. What a find. It was basically a "cook it yourself hot pot" type affair. Choose your meats, vegetables and away you go. All you can eat in 100 minutes. All you can drink (anything) for under $20 extra wasnt a bad idea either. We rolled out of there with happy bellies, wandered Shinjuku a while and then jumped on the JR rail to Shiboya.

    We got out at the Hachiko Gate exit, rolling right out at the world famous Shiboya Crossing. It was busy, but being about 9pm, not peak. The streets here were busy still, especially for a Monday night, lit up and aglow with advertising boards, T.V. screens and flashing lights. We wandered around the place abuzz, especially the Pachinko slot machine places, which may have impaired my hearing forever.

    Just two nights and a day and a half left of our trip, as we wind up a great holiday.
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