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Japan Trip 2017
  • Kristofor Mallegrom

Japan Trip 2017

A 20-day adventure by Kristofor Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 20, 2017
    Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Melbourne (Trip Start)

    October 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    This year hasn't exactly gone to plan. In January I was planning a trip to Madagascar. By February I was excited and looking forward to the birth of our first child and being a father. In March, we were off exploring the South Pacific on a baby-moon cruise. At the end of April our son Hendrik was born too soon and we lost him. It was the worst thing that's ever happened to me. The winter to follow has been extremely tough to say the least. We're trying to be positive now and look to the future. We have the unfortunate opportunity now to get away to enjoy a new adventure and experience together. It's necessary. I have a feeling it's going to be good for us.

    I've seen a lot of the world, but there's still much I'd love to see - The Final Continent (Antarctica), Alaska, Canada, more of the US, and certainly Japan. I always figured many of these could be completed easier with children or later in life. Places like Egypt, Central Africa and now Madagascar with it's 'Black Plague' may now have to wait a while... (I'm actually thankful I didn't end up booking to go there this year).

    Every trip I've ever done, every place I've ever been, I've recorded with a Travel Blog, including journal entries, maps, names of places, people met, flags, photos and more. From 2006 to 2016, I used the site www.travelpod.com. Early this year, we spent around $800 to have all my blogs made into hard copy books, a priceless life-travel souvenir. Sadly, in March this year the site was 'bought out' by Tripadvisor and closed down. I managed to migrate all my blogs to an archived site which can still be viewed and accessed in their original format at /http://www.travelark.org/traveller/tofor85. Whilst it's great to still have all the blogs online, that archive can't be edited going forward and of course I can't use the Travelpod site to make any new blogs. I scouted around, and was shocked to find how few decent looking Travel Blog websites there are out there. I finally decided on this one, at https://findpenguins.com/tofor85

    This site is a little different, and uses something called 'Footprints' to mark where you are in the world. I've taken the time to go back and put 'Footprints' in for each and every place I have ever been. From 2006 onwards the dates are relatively accurate even. I'll continue to cross-link my blog entries of previous trips (located on TravelArk) to this website and try to add a few photos for a glimpse of visual representation of footprints taken around the world. This site is a work in progress, and I'll continue to filter blogs, photos and stories across. It's the sole site I'll use for the Japan adventure ahead.

    The trip ahead will be about 3 weeks. We set off 10.30am on Saturday morning, October 21st and return Wednesday night, arriving home Thursday morning 9 November in Melbourne. We're flying direct from Melbourne to Tokyo return with Qantas. We'll start off with a couple days by ourselves in Tokyo. On Monday night, the 23rd we mete up with a G-Adventures Travel Group (12-16 people) which takes us from Tokyo to Takayama, Kanazawa, Hiroshima, Miyajima, Kyoto, Mount Fuji and back to Tokyo. We then have 3 nights/ 4 days by ourselves at the end of our trip based in Tokyo. I'll do my best to post live journal entries, photos and updates on this site as much as is possible. If there's a delay in internet, I will be writing entries on my Samsung tablet and uploading at the first/easiest opportunity.

    To navigate this site -
    - Click on 'Trips' under my profile picture to sort my travel by trips taken.
    - Click on 'Countries' under my profile picture to see where I've been in the world.
    - Click on a Footprint to see more information on that trip (if available), as well as photos. You can leave comments on each footprint.
    - For previous Trips (prior to Japan) I have included at least an initial and final blog entry list (to take you to TravelArk) for further information/blog entry/photos.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    The Worlds Busiest City

    October 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Its just about to hit midnight on Saturday and we've just collapsed at our hotel the Remm Roppongi. Its been a long day. For the most part, its all gone smoothly.
    There was an incident with Nats phone.. We'd cleared customs in Melbourne and arrived at our boarding gate when Natalie realised her shiny new mobile was missing. We called the phone to find it'd slipped out of her bag at a cafe 'High Tide' where we'd had breakfast earlier. Lucky for Nat, it'd been turned in by an honest person, and the cafe could hold it for us.. but how to collect it? We raced back against the tides of people to customs. Again lucky enough, the head of security agreed to have someone collect it for us and deliver into Nats grateful hands. Crisis averted. After all that rushing, our flight was delayed around 90 minutes in the end.
    The flight was comfy enough, with a couple tasty meals and movies the 10 hours didnt feel too bad.
    I was expecting an almighty challenge negotiating our way from Narita to our hotel in Rommpongi but that wasnt to be the case.. it couldnt have gone smoother. I found a decent package for the airport "skyliner" express, return, plus 48 hour metro ticket to get us around Tokyo until our tour start Monday evening which cost us a total ¥10,500 ($115AUD). 1 AUD = 89¥. Id anticipated $30each, each way from airport to city.
    Train times were perfect we basically rolled up 5 minutes before the skyliner and 5 seconds before the connecting metro train.
    Early impressions of Japan; friendly people who understand at least a little English willing to help with a smile, polite people conscious of others around them, crazy amount of advertising, giant maze metro subway (well signed, colour coded, easy to follow despite size), English subtitles on everything (including some English announcements like train arrivals), very orderly and clean. We arrived Saturday night and there was no ruckus or drunks anywhere.
    Stepping out at Roppingi at 10.30pm had a bit of that 'wow factor'. There was a buzz about the place. Bright lights, crowds, advertising boards and most places still open and busy. We found our hotel quickly enough, checked in, showered and headed out to find some food!
    The room is very nice, with an amazing shower and fancy Japanese toilet! Its small but clean and comfy.
    We dont exactly know what we ordered for dinner, little fried balls of something seafood related, with egg and cheese and Japanese beer? We stood in there and enjoyes enough :)
    Now were exhausted. Time to sleep and recharge before exploring more tomorrow and visiting DisneySea. Its drizzling rain tonight and a storm is projected so hopefully we dont get soaked tomorrow. Despite the rain the weather is pleasantly warm and a little humid. What a day, looking forward to the trip ahead!    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Drowning at Disney Sea

    October 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I thought it would be a nice, gentle, relaxing way to start our Japan trip - a wholesome carefree day at DisneySea. I figured I'd avoid queues and book it in advance. Unfortunately I booked it for a typhoon day..
    It was to be one of, if not the wettest day I've ever seen anywhere in the world, in my entire life. It was pouring when we woke up and it was pouring when we got back to the hotel just now. Whilst still tepid warm in the morning, it seemed to get colder and windier as the day progressed...

    Part of the initial appeal of DisneySea was its relative proximity to our first hotel in Tokyo, less than an hour away via the Metro Hibuya Line and JLT Rail. Further, DisneySea was a Disney park with unique features and attractions and itd be fun to compare with Disneylands we've seen in the US, Paris and Hong Kong.
    Gumboots appear to be relatively popular and fashionable in Tokyo and I see why. Our choice of footwear today wasnt ideal for the weather. If not for the umbrellas we borrowed from our hotel, things would have been much worse. By the time we arrived at Maihama Rail Station, opposite the Disney Land park entrance there were warnings of severe storms and typhoons and winds had picked up. Just a 15minute walk to DisneySea.
    By the time we'd entered DisneySea my feet were soaked. Nothing to do but try enjoy the day as much as possible. Thankfully most rides were undercover and the weather meant smaller (but not always small) lines for rides.

    We trudged through the downpour and winds with our umbrellas (mine nearly snapped several times) and got through all the major rides one by one - Tower of Terror (a free fall drop ride), Turtle Talk (a Finding Nemo theatre show), 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea (an underwater submarine themed adventure), Journey to the Centre of the Earth (a mountain themed roller coaster), Nemo & Friends Searider (a '4D' Theatre simulator that moves), Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull (an adventure roller coaster/jeep ride) and Raging Spirits (a faster roller coaster rail/mine ride with a 360degree loop).
    We still had a fun day, but left the park with drenched, sore feet.

    Dinner was an amazing find! Ikinari Steak House, just 2 minutes walk from Roppongi station and our hotel. You basically choose your own cut, style and weight of meat, and you pay by the gram. Once you've made your choice, the chefs cuts it for you and checks all is okay. They cook it up in full view and serve on a hot plate with onion and corn. Delicious tap beer also on offer. Service and meat quality was absolutely outstanding. I daresay that meal will be hard to beat the entire trip. A fine conclusion to a great day. Tomorrow we leave Roppongi to meet up with our G Ad ventures tour group at 5pm.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Zoo and Tour Start

    October 23, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Over the years, Nat and I have made a habit of visiting local zoos on our travels. We love animals and most of the time it makes for an easy going, fun and uplifting day. Id read mixed reviews about the Tokyo zoo at Ueno so I hadn't designated the location as a priority.

    However, when it turned out that the zoo was a mere 15 minute walk from the hotel and meeting point for our G Adventures tour, I figured I'd seize the opportunity to transform a 'hotel transition day' into something more fun, uplifting and memorable one.

    We negotiated our way from Roppongi to Iriya station (via Hibuya line Metro) easy enough. Arriving at the hotel 3 hours before check in, we opted to just store our bags, and set off for lunch, and zootime.

    Lunch was a random find. We walked past a place called Ton Kotsu Ramen, and with alluring enough pictures (no English) decided to venture inside. Turns out, at this establishment, all orders are taken via vending machine. It was a matter of finding a picture of food you liked, matching its cost and image to a button, inserting cash credit, making your selection, retrieving change and a ticket, and handing the ticket over to your waiter. Our meals were a bowl of soup, and a bowl of noodles and meat that are mixed to form the delicious combination of Ramen!

    With full bellies we wandered through sidestreets and park to find the zoo. A mere 600¥ entry fee gained us admission. Initial impressions of the zoo were quite positive. Most review complaints stemmed from issues with its size and enclosure quality and size. The map showed this was a huge two part zoo, separated by a long bridge and by all accounts animals appeared happy, healthy and comfortable. This zoo had an excellent giant otter exhibit and the best collection of large prey birds and owls I've ever seen, including a showpony Andean Condor! There were some awesome exotic birds, gorillas, bears (brown and polar), lions, seals and more.

    After yesterday's Typhoon Lan, today was a stunningly perfect day for a stroll through park and zoo. Not a cloud in the sky. As we crossed the bridge to the other 'older' side of the zoo we understood peoples negative reviews. Most of these exhibits were very old, and small. They looked 70s style. Giraffe, Hippo and Rhinos lived in far too tiny and desolate cages which closer resembled prison cells than enclosures.

    Tired feet found our way back to the hotel for a meet, greet and dinner with our tour guide Mari and eight of the 10 tourists to join us (two arriving tomorrow) as follows - Nigel (US), Ramesh (Auckland), Mara (London), Tony (West Australia) and Matthais & Sabrina (Switzerland). Nigel, Tony and Ramesh were a fair bit older (50+) and the other three probably around our age. Dinner was a fantastic feast of various Japanese tapas; croquettes, noodles, salad, fried chicken, cook your own meats, beer and even a sushi boat.

    Tomorrow we have a quiet morning before we begin our 4-5 hour journey to Takayama.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    To the Japanese Alps

    October 24, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Today was largely a travel day, but the first real adventure outside of Tokyo. After breakfast, a morning stroll around Ueno (to get cash out at the post office), and receiving our 14 day J-Rail Pass, we were packed and ready to board the first of 3 trains to get us to our next destination in Takayama. Today the final two members joined our group; Mark and Aleta, an elderly couple from Melbourne.

    Our route was as follows -
    - J Line Metro to Tokyo station (regular metro train) for 20minutes.
    - Bullet Train (upto 300km/p/hr) to Nagoya for 1 hour 40 minutes
    - Express Train to Takayama for 2 hours 20 minutes.

    The journey itself was comfortable and tremendously scenic. From the sprawling metropolis of Tokyo, to smaller towns, to lush green forests and mountainscapes. The peaks and turquoise rivers and streams were stunning. One of those "you had to be there" experiences that blurry train window photos dont do justice.

    Upon arrival we were transported by minibus to our traditional Japanese Ryokan accomodation at Iwataya. This included; shoes off at the door, tatami floors, sliding room doors, futon beds, yukata robes and communal onsen bathing. Usually I know people for more than 48 hours before we get naked together but the occasion demanded an exception. I was in there a lot longer than expected, the bathing pool was a perfect temperature.

    This evenings dinner was in the town at Tenaga Ashinaga. Nat and I ordered a beef and stirfry dish with carrot and beanshoots. Seaweed on the side and misu soup. I also got to try a local craft beer for an all round enjoyable evening.

    Sunset here is around 5pm, so not much in the way of photogenic opportunities for the scenic beauty we saw. Hopefully, with luck our full day in Takayama tomorrow will be different.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Exploring Takayama

    October 25, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    We woke this morning to the sound of rain. Heavy, relentless rain. A shame really, given we'd spend just about the entire day walking. It still turned out to be an thoroughly enjoyable and memorable day.

    Equipped in our hiking boots and rain jackets with borrowed umbrellas we set out into the wet to begin our full day of exploring Takayama. First up was the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine near our Ryokan. The wet rainy, forested backdrop made for a serene visit. From there, we wandered the morning markets and had a simple but delicious toast and fruit breakfast before jumping on a minibus up to the nearby Hida Folk Village.

    The Hida Folk Village was a reconstructed historical museum. Most countries seem to have them; rebuild homes from different time periods and an insight into historic culture and past lifestyles. It was a really nice museum, even with the rain. Complimentary and optional gumboots helped me keep dry.

    After a udon curry noodle lunch (with my first sake experiences; a hot one I wasn't much fond of), we had a free afternoon. Being free and close, Matthais, Sabrina, Nat and I opted to explore the Takayama museum of history and art, allegedly famed for its collection of katanas and historic artifacts. It had some impressive pieces, most for me a shimmering spear and worlds largest (and probably oldest) wooden water pistol.

    From there I decided to try find the ruins of the Takayama castle. After much searching we found Daryuji temple and Shiroyama park and gradually climbed to the summit to the castle ruins. There wasnt much to see but the surrounding forest was really pretty. Along the way I drank some strange white spring water.

    Once down from the castle ruins we followed the trail via several ninja temples, followed the rivers, and guided ourselves back eventually to the hotel. Dinner was a variety of rice, beef steak, schnitzel, salad and mountain specialities. Following another communal bath, we're now packing for our trip to Kanazawa tomorrow.

    ***Pictures to come. Pictures featured on this blog arent necessarily my best. I take photos with my Nikon D90 SLR and mobile. My SLR photos need to be converted to upload on this site which is a pain and time consuming so many photos that feature here are mobile snapshots.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Geisha in Kanazawa

    October 26, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We woke early for a quick return to the morning markets in Takayama to pick up a couple souvenirs. We also grabbed a random breakfast from a small food stand. Fish shaped pancake like pastries, with a variety of fillings including apple, cream, almond paste and a berry jam. Delicious!

    Once back at our ryokan, it was time to grab our backpacks and begin our three train transfer (two local trains and one bullet train) from Takayama to Kanazawa. The journey would take a total around three hours and go snoothly enough. There was plenty of nice mountainous scenery and whitecap mountainscapes to enjoy on the way, along with a hot, canned, white coffee from a vending machine!

    We arrived in Kanazawa by early afternoon. A much larger, more westernized city than Takayama, only an hour from the Sea of Japan. After another delicious spicy ramen lunch (my new Japanese favourite), we headed to a Geisha show nearby (felt like an art/theatre venue). This show lasted an hour and we were traditionally entertained by some Geisha ladies. Initially this consisted of dancing and music but soon became very interactive, with games and audience participation. When Nat and I were called up to play a "paper scissors rick.. type game" I started my humiliation early by cracking my head on one of the side panels on the way to the stage (much to the horror and concern of the crowd). I survived with shreds of my dignity intact.

    We spent the remainder of the afternoon around the Higashi Chayagai (Geisha) district. This included many original buildings from the mid 1850's. Whilst the atchitecture here was fascinating, the area really had a touristy feel about it. Our afternoon was rounded off by a short tour and demonstration of gold leaf production and craftsmanship.

    Following that, a cheap Italian themed dinner and separate desert, we're now settled in to our hotel for the next two nights - the APA Hotel, a Western hotel which is small but comfy enough. We've a big day around Kanazawa ahead tomorrow.

    ***I have many nice photos of the city and Geisha district (taken on my SLR) that need to be converted to jpg that will be added later. Heres some random mobile snaps.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    A Sunny Day in Kanazawa

    October 27, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Perfect weather today for our adventure around Kanazawa - blue skies, sunshine and 21C. We were a bit late to get going this morning and missed breakfast, but no matter - a hot canned coffee from a vending machine would rectify that problem.

    Following a stroll around the samurai district, our first major stop of the day was at Myōryū-ji (Ninja Temple). We had a 11am tour here. Whilst the vast majority of everything (including our guided tour) was in Japanese only, we did get a few English notes. It was an amazing place really - basically everything inside moved (walls, panels, windows) and there were hidden hatches, trapdoors, openings and secret passages and rooms everywhere!

    Next, the fish markets in the city centre to explore and find some lunch thereabouts. There were plenty of weird and wonderful things on display here - crabs, squid, big fish, small fish, eels, a giant fish head and more. We grabbed some apple slices and then opted to try some grilled eel on skewers. It was absolutely delicious.. one of the tastiest fish Ive had. The marinade on it made it even better. Later, we also decided to try some sea urchin. It was a lot better than expected!

    From here we continued on by bus and foot to the Kanazawa castle ruins. Most of the original structure was destroyed here but a few buildings have been restored as they were. It was an impressive structure with remarkable craftsmanship, moat, walls and defenses.

    Just next door was the Kenroku-en gardens, one of the "three great gardens of Japan" set up in the 1620. It was a pretty spot where we wondered about for an hour or so. Having arrived at 3pm, I felt the lighting didnt quite do it justice, being a bit on the dark/shadowy side. The sun really starts to set at 3ish and by 5 its quite dark. It was still a pretty, albeit crowded place.

    We're back at the hotel getting ready to head out to dinner. A few other points about Japan as we come up to the week point of our trip -
    - Politeness and courtesy here is really second to nowhere else on earth. People also seem extremely genuine about this.
    - I'm yet to see any drunken or unruly behaviour
    - Japan has no public bins... anywhere. A few of us today had to carry rubbish around with us for hours. Even at the markets there were no bins?..
    - ...and yet Japan is the cleanest country I have ever seen by miles.. We've barely seen any litter and no graffiti or vandalism. The ground nearly anywhere (streets, shopping centre.. etc) looks clean enough to eat off.
    - I've found hotel rooms small but comfortable. Matresses are generally very comfy and there's usually a single, hard (awfully uncomfortable in my opinion) pillow.
    - Japan is not a place for tall people.. but we all knew that. I've had to walk around hunched and ducking alot!
    - there are vending machines everywhere (which have preheated hot items)
    - toilets are always impressive with dozens of buttons, lights and options..
    - trains run on time to the minute.. all the time.. (no really)
    - You're going to sit on the floor.. a lot.. and take your shoes off.. a lot. The floor thing gets a bit tedious and uncomfortable. I understand thats a cultural difference and something you'd have to get used to.
    - Theres very little English tour/attraction translation (much less than anywhere I've ever been). Many museums, temples, the zoo etc. Dont have English subtitles at all. Which is fine, just frustrating at times
    - The "salary man" culture is dominant. Japan must sell more "standard size, standard black" buisiness suits than anywhere in the world. Seems a little pretentious (with heirarchies, excess work hours and status) to me.

    ***Again just reiterating these photos are just a couple random mobile snaps at this stage as it's an extra effort to move photos from my SLR memory to my tablet, and then individually sort and convert them to JPG's as required by this website.. I think ill just keep using mobile photos and update/create an album of quality SLR photos on my return.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    History of Hiroshima

    October 28, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After two trains, we arrived in Hiroshima early afternoon. There were concerns we might be greeted by another typhoon, but to our relief it was only a gentle drizzle we had to contend with, almost refreshing after a couple hot and stuffy train rides (Japan aircon hasnt really existed thus far in our trip).

    Our itinerary today would focus primarily on the most noteworthy historic event in Hiroshima over the last century, the catastrophic devestation of the atomic bomb dropped here at 8.15am on 6 August 1945. The firsr stop was the famous peace memorial museum, which largely lived up to expectations. A little small (as half was subject to renovations) and very crowded, but well laid out and informative (as well as obviously a little harrowing and confronting). Most interesting were artifacts and items retrieved from the incident such as clothes, a melted lunchbox, a watch stopped at 8.15 and more.

    From here we wandered around the surrounding gardens and memorials, most noteworthy the shell of a famous domed building (used as a hall) left as it was after the nuclear blast. We managed to get around just before the rain intensified and all kept relatively dry. A short but crowded tram ride soon had us back at New Hotel Hiroden which was the largest and nicest hotel by far in Japan so far.

    Dinner tonight wasn't too far away and it sure was a tasty one. A real 'Hiroshima speciality' called Okonomiyaki, basically a big savoury pancake with cheese, cabbage, meat and other things (of your choice) cooked on a grill before you. Absolutely delicious. The drinks to follow in a small laneway were the first time Ive felt 'ripped off' in Japan so far. The whole thing was seedy and overpriced.

    Tomorrow, weather permitting, we're hoping to visit Miyajima island. Stay away typhoon! Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    A Day at Miyajima Island

    October 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Nat and I agreed that today was probably our favourite place in Japan so far. We spent the vast majority of it at Itsukushima, more commonly known as Miyajima Island about 45 minutes from Hiroshima.

    The day didnt start great, it was one of those mornings where you're late and everything seems to be going wrong. We'd heard that the closest typhoon had diverted away from us, but nonetheless the rain was relentless. We trudged through it on foot, train and ferry to get to Miyajima island.

    Miyajima Island is widely regarded as one of the most scenic spots in Japan, a sacred spot on the beautiful Seto Inland Sea. It is known for its forests and ancient temples. Just offshore, the giant, orange Grand Torii Gate is partially submerged at high tide. It marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine, which was first built in the 12th-century. 

    The downpour and sticky humid weather conditions made our first couple hours here a bit uncomfortable. Fortunately however, as we finished exploring the Itsukushima Shrine (mostly indoors), the rain eased and clouds lightened. From this point on the day just continued to improve.

    After a curry tonkatsu lunch, our destination was up towards the summit of Mount Misen. First to Momijidani Park where a couple of ropeways would take us some of the way. This park itself was a pretty place with wild deer roaming freely about. The whole island is actually full of them, even about the town and market by the ferry terminal. They walk around with impunity, looking for anything they can eat (including train passes). They have no objection to being touched and zero fear of people. They are still very gentle.

    The cable car took two stops first a small car to Kayatani station and then a second larger one to Shishiiwa. We took this journey with our Swiss group companions Matthais and Sabrina. Whilst Shishiiwa station itself offered spectacular enough viewing, there was now a further steep 30-40 minute walk to the summit of Mount Misen, a World Cultural Heritage Site. On the way we also saw the Eternal flame temple, where Kobo Daishi (Kukai) conducted a 100 day Goma fire ceremony around the year 806AD. It is said the flame that burns there today is the same, having been protected for over 1200 years.

    The summit of Mt Misen offered spectacular panoramic views of Miyajima. Nat and I decided rather than return via cable car, to hike the entire way down from summit to pier via tge forest. It was a long, steep decent but we made it back a couple hours later just before dusk.

    By the time we'd returned to the hotel there wasnt even time to really change before dinner. My feet are wrecked with blisters so I've grabbed some boot insoles from a chemist.
    Dinnee was a mixed grill affair with the group. Tonorrow we're off to Kyoto!    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Arrival in Kyoto

    October 30, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Kyoto is regarded by many as Japan's most beautiful city. It's where we'd spend the next three nights, just a short journey from Hiroshima. It took us just two bullet trains (or Shinkasen) to get there, one around 90 minutes to shin-Osaka and then after a quick change, just another 10 minutes to Kyoto proper.

    It didnt take long to be impressed by Kyoto. I'd be fairly comfortable in suggesting that the train station itself was the most awe-inspiring and inpressive train station (for architecture) I've seen anywhere in the world without a doubt. Photos dont really seem to do it justice. It was a towering open steel windowed structure 12 stories and 12 escalators tall with a sky garden terrace. The station cost 1.25 billion to construct back in 1995.. Wow. Lunch was near the top, a Ramen based foodcourt. Ramen has fast become a favorite.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon at Fushimi Inari Taisha, famed for its "thousand torii gates", amidst shrines and temples up to the summit of Mount Inari. We explored the area for a few hours, and a stroll turned to a walk to the highest viewpoint, to a hike to the summit. It was a peaceful, picturesque and tranquill place shrouded in thick forest with many nice views of the forest. Apparently wild boars live there but we didnt see any.

    We've just returned from dinner at a chicken barbeque restaurant. I tried some Asahi black and our guides favourite local beer called Yebisu. Both pretty good. My proudest discovery however was "Citris infused Plum Wine" on the rocks. Delicious. Tomorrow we have a full day exploring Kyoto before a special off tour expedition on Wednesday.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Exploring Kyoto

    October 31, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today we had a full itinerary exploring Kyoto with our G Adventures tour. We got started with our first destination of the day, the 'Golden Pavillion' or Kinkaku-ji.

    The site of Kinkaku-ji was originally a villa called Kitayama-dai, belonging to a powerful statesman, Saionji Kintsune. Kinkaku-ji's history dates to 1397, when the villa was purchased from the Saionji family by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and transformed into the Kinkaku-ji complex.

    On July 2, 1950, at 2:30 am, the pavilion was burned down by a 22-year-old novice monk, Hayashi Yoken, who then attempted suicide on the Daimon-ji hill behind the building. He survived, and was subsequently taken into custody. The monk was sentenced to seven years in prison, but was released because of mental illnesses. Subsequently, his mother committed suicide due to the shame of her son. Grim tidings. The reconstructed building itself was spectacular though the site was the most crowded attraction we'd seen so far.

    Our next stop, the Daitokuji Busdhist Zen temple was an entirely different experience. This location was quiet and serene with little in the way of tourists. This was a large temple complex with mossy gardens and shrines aplenty. There were no photos allowed inside, but that's okay with me. It gave us a chance to sit in peace, enjoy the sun and the location. Many temples in Japan have fell victim to fire and destruction over the years but this one remains intact, exactly as it was hundreds of years ago. I really appreciated the philosophy of some of the zen pieces, so much so that Nat and opted to buy one.

    The final stop of the day was the Nijō Castle. It was built by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1601 and it the place where the shogun period started and ended. It was a really fascinating place, with some striking artwork and architecture mostly for me in the various meeting rooms of the Ninomaru Palace where feudal lords would wait to meet with the shogun. We were even fortunate enough to see a large heron in the surrounding gardens. The sun sets early in Japan and 3.30pm feels like dusk, so by the time light started to fade at 4.30 upon our exit, it was time to return to the hotel.

    We spent the evening exploring the city centre of Kyoto. Wow, what a huge place.. markets, shops, dining areas seemed to stretch for miles. Nat and I eventually decided to break off from the group and do our own thing. We found a fantastic place called Nick Stock Grill which was outstanding, with by far the best Japanese beer iv had so far, a craft beer called Nagahama IPA special. We managed to negotiate our way back to the hotel easy enough by public buses. Tomorrow we're going to use our free day to get to Himeji Castle!    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Castle and Gardens

    November 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Hopefully the wet and windy weather is behind us now. Today was a gorgeous day for our trip out to Himeji, about an hour out of Kyoto by bullet train. All went smoothly getring there, and we were at the front gates of the castle before 10am.

    The castle is regarded as the finest surviving example of prototypical Japanese castle architecture and its not hard to see why. Completef in 1618, it consists of a network of 83 buildings with advanced defensive systems from the feudal period. The most striking being the main keep, a six story, ornate, stark white structure raised on a hill that towers over the town of Himeji. It was awe inspiring to admire its magnificence on the hike up to the keep gates.

    However, getting inside the keep itself was slightly underwhelming. Shoes off, polished wooden floorboards, a lot of stairs (like everywhere) but nothing else really. Some weapon racks, a couple trap doors, and little else. So in summary, I guess Himeji is like a hollow golden peanut. Magnificent and shiny on the outside, dark and empty on the inside.

    We got through the entire castle, walls and garden in around 90 minutes without rushing. We walked back to the station via temporary (tents) and then permanent (shops) markets. The train had us back in Kyoto just before 1.
    From there, a waffle for lunch to tide us over until Arashiyama. We switched to a local JLT train and headed on our way.

    Arashiyama is a huge, popular mountainous park. It features a bamboo grove, many temples, dense forest and a monkey park. We covered a fair bit of it. Unfortunately it felt a LITTLE spoiled by excessive tourism, and the fading afternoon light (sun starts to set and fade by 2.30-3) didn't do it justice. We'd planned to grab more food here but on arrival (and pressed for time) it seemed food was pricey and exploiting tourism. We saw a poor woman get forced to pay 3000¥ ($35aud approx) for a plate of about 12 dumplings.

    We pressed on through the bamboo grove, which was dense and pretty with the afternoon sun shining through the bamboo stems. From there we veered away from the hoards of tourists into the park proper to wander around, finding a nice lookout. Some of the autumn leaves of the forest and turquoise streams were stunning.

    The last stop of the day would end up being the
    Iwatayama Monkey Park. I'd hoped to make it to the Inperial Palace by its last entry at 4 but we were here, and running out of time so settled for monkeys. It was a 20 minute hike to their hang out spot... a steep climb into the mountain. There were dozens of wild Japanese macaque (snow monkeys) living here. "Wild" in that they're completely free range/ unrestricted.. but lured here by the prospect of being fed. It was still nice to see them up close and get great views of Kyoto. The monkeys appeared in decent health at least.

    By the time we got down, back to the station and into Kyoto city again, the Imperial Palace was closed. I decided to try walk what looked around half hour to at least see its exterior but alas time, light, distance and the battered, blistered ruins of what were our feet, were against us. We headed home for a local dinner for our last night in Kyoto. Tomorrow we head towards Mount Fuji.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Heading to Fuji

    November 2, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Not too much to report today for what was primarilly a travel day. We took a total of four trains; 1 Bullet Train, 1 Express Train and 2 Local Trains to get us from Kyoto to Lake Kawaguchiko at the base of Mount Fuji. From a distance Fuji looked a little smaller than expected but its quite stunning and imposing when you get up close.

    A shuttle from Kawaguchiko train station had us at our Japanese Ryokan hotel "Fuji Views" by around 4pm. The hotel was certainly aptly named, offering a great view of the mountain from its front doors, as well as panoramic viewing rooms on its top (6th floor) level. Our room was impressive; tatami mats, futons and a balcony. We spent the remaining hour or so of dwindling daylights walking the park around the hotel.

    We spent the evening attempting to make oragami figures before enjoying a 9 course set traditional Japanese meal - very small dishes (included in G Adventures Tour). Some was okay, but most wasnt for me. I also tried my first ever Japanese wines, a glass of red and white which were decent though I favoured the white. This hotel also has a communal bath/ spa/ onsen (which involves mass gender separated nude spas) which was a relaxing end to the day. Tomorrow will be a hiking day we hope around the base of Fuji.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Hiking Around Fuji

    November 3, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Mount Fuji is only open for hiking in July and August each year. In lieu of hiking to the summit, there are five lakes around its base that offer spectacular alternatives. One such lake being Kawaguchiko, our hotel located right by its edge.

    Todays task would be to hike around the lake. We knew it was a big one so we set out at around 9.45am. Within minutes, in a remote spot we were stopped by a local (perhaps going fishing) who struck up a conversation. In most countries, this situation would instantly raise caution and concern - whats he going to try sell me? Whats the scam? Whens he going to ask for money? In many countries this would be a valid concern, but not Japan. He just legitimately wanted to say hello, practice his English, welcome us and wish us well. Very refreshing.

    It was a gorgeous walk with stunning views of the lake, little temples, autumn leaves and Mount Fuji itself. After an hour or so we reached the Kawaguchiko Ropeway cablecar that takes you up and back from a viewpoint at Mount Fuyimidan. The summit here offered fantastic views of Mount Fuji and the lake, as well as a cute rabbit shrine.

    Once back down by the lake we continued our walk around until we reached the town of Kawaguchi. Being a public holiday today (Cultural Day - an equivalent of Australia Day), there was a huge marketplace with food stalls and music (seems they love Jazz in Japan). We picked up some grilled corn, dumplings, chicken pieces and a kebab like thing.
    By some miracle, we managed to find a bin (extreme rarity in Japan) and continued on our walk.

    The next point of interest we found was what looked like a nursery and cafe, with a variety of plants for sale, information booth, souvenirs and snacks on offer. It wasnt far from here things got a bit less fun. So far we'd walked by the lakes edge on a path but that was about to end. Much of the kilometres to follow we'd have to basically walk on the road and it was a tight squeeze at times.

    We knew this was a big lake, but we were about to find out HOW big.. huge, giant, seemingly endless. When we arrived opposite our hotel, thinking the edge was nearby, we were wrong, water continued to stretch on and on, without being sure of where the end was. By now my feet had started to ache.. mainly due to the wear, thinned soles and lack of support on my hiking boots.

    We pressed on, and on, and on, mostly dodging or being grazed by passing cars until we finally made it to the home stretch. By now, my feet were just about ruined and not even a random can of 'Gubunomi' a green lemonade with ice cream themed.. drink from a roadside vending machine could bring relief.

    By the time we got back to the hotel it was 5.15pm, half hour or so after sunset. We'd ended up walking around 25 kilometres and about 40,000 steps. Even more than we anticipated. It was the most we'd walked all trip. By the time I'd staggered into our room my feet were a smouldering ruin of blister clusters. My ankles were swollen and I had a bizarre rash around both ankles that burned to touch.. it looked like bites. I was also sunburnt and my shoulders ached from my backpack. Still, it was well worth it for all the views, discoveries and accomplishment of the journey itself.

    Of course dinner, an hour later was a decent walk away, just what I didn't want right now. It was a small restaurant by the lake where a sole gentleman played sole host, waiter, barman and chef for 11 people. It was Italian inspired food and mostly tasty enough. Hours later I dragged myself into the Onsen and subsequently fell onto my futon with bandaged feet. A gorgeous and memorable day. Tomorrow is our last full tour day as we head back to Tokyo.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Tour End in Tokyo

    November 4, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After almost 2 weeks, our G Adventures tour concluded, back where it started at the Candeo Hotel in Uneo, Tokyo. Just a couple trains and hours took us from the base of Mount Fuji to Tokyo.

    There wasn't too much planned for today, so after lunch our guide took us around to a few places by JR Line and Metro trains.

    Sumo was out of season, but we did head to the station and area of their competition by the stadium. Next on to the Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa, one of the oldest places in Tokyo. It felt a little cheesy and touristy here, thousands of people, 100s of souvenir stalls, selfie sticks and fast food. Some of the temple buildings were nice but cheapened by souvenir stalls inside, vending machines, a mini theme park with roller coasters metres away and nearby strip clubs and topless calendar stores. Not exactly zen aesthetic.

    We then wandered drinking spots, sidestreets and shopping areaa nearby, riding wavea of crowds. On the way back to the hotel, Nat and I opted to leave the group to explore Akhihabara Electrical Town, a massive 9 story electrical department store. If its electronic related, they've got it. It was a bit like a Dick Smith or Harvey Norman store from Australia but 1000 times bigger. There was plenty of variety, 3-4 aisles of keyboards, rice cookers, gaming merchandise, popcorn makers, whatever you could think of. There seemed as many staff as customers. Nothing here was particularly cheap though.. and the biggest most expensive TV, a 75 inch UHD Panasonic that looked good but not extraordinary came in at ¥2.7 million, or around $32,000AUD.

    With sensory and people overload a factor, we returned to the hotel before 7 to meet the Group for a farewell dinner. As we arrived there appeared to be a cluster of people or gigantic European tour group arriving. Everyone looked unhappy. Their guide came rushing up to us by mistake panting, sweating, offering excess apologies and explanations.. poor guy. Hes in for a rough tour. Fortunately for us, we'd had a relaxed, punctual group without complaints or high maintenance. Dinner was fun and delicious, we shared all sorts of meat and fish dishes as well as a pitcher or four of beer.

    Tomorrow Nat and I are on our own for a few nights in Shinjuku as our trip winds up. Still a few fun days ahead.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Sky Views of Tokyo

    November 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I was pretty impressed with our G Adventures tour and quality of accomodation, but lets just say our transfer to Century Southern Towers was a step up or two.

    We woke this morning at Candeo Hotel and had said goodbye to Mari (our guide) at breakfast. Then we made a half hour train ride on the JR Line to our hotel for our last three nights, halfway between Shinjuku and Yoyogi stations. We had a few hours wait to checkin so we dropped our bags at the 20th floor reception and went accross the road to explore a 14 story department store. We tried our 'once off in a different country McDonalds' routine, which wasn't particularly different, noteworthy or satisfying. About the same price as back home and always crowded in Tokyo. We managed to find a Pandora shop which Nat was certainly happy about.

    Check in time! Wow. We'd booked a panoramic room @ Hotel Century Southern Tower (got a good deal) but didnt expect this. In a city famed for its 'cosy' rooms where space comes at a premium, this was absolutely huge. On the 3rd top floor at level 33, it offered two giant windows facing two directions, around a King Size bed that offered spectacular views of the city. Its the best view from a room Ive ever had anywhere in the world.

    We unpacked and jumped on the JR for half hour east to meet Matthais and Sabrina (from our tour) at the Tokyo Skytree, the second tallest building in the world behind the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. It was a good 25 minute walk from the nearest JR station, and we were unable to find our tour friends at the "suggested meeting spot" by our guide. In fact we couldn't even find a fountain. We headed up solo (4000¥ each) to catch the fading light from sunset by 5pm. It offered two viewing decks offering great views of the city, and a couple of glass panel floors. It was extremely crowded though and with the glass windows extended away from viewing platforms, crowds and reflection prevented photos doing the view any justice.

    We decended, had a quick dinner with Matthias and Sabrina, said our goodbyes, grabbed a quick custard filled, pastry thing and made haste back to the JR station to travel to Harajaku to meet Ben for drinks at a little craft brewery. Ah, Japan train efficiency, I'll miss you. Getting to Harajaku was delightfully efficient. Walking onto one train, getting off and walking onto another arriving perfectly on time. I thought we'd be 10-15 minutes late but we ended up at Harajaku 10 minutes early.

    We spent a couple hours with Ben at the Baird tap house enjoying a few very tasty craft beers. It was just one train stop back to our hotel to enjoy the night skyline views from our room before turning in.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Mount Takao

    November 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today was the last and expiry day of our JR Rail Passes. They've served is well taking us all around the Honshu region of Japan, but we still keen to squeeze a little more value out them.

    We woke around 9 amd rather spontaneously decided to catch a train from Shinjuku station about an hour west of the Tokyo city centre to the base pf Mount Takao.

    Getting there was no problem, but whilst we'd hope to escape the surging seas of human crowds by getting into the countryside, they certainly followed us to our destination. There was 15 times the amount of people as I expected to find in a forest/mountain area on a weekday.

    Theres a cable car here (steepest in Japan) and chair lift that take you half way up the mountain. From there, theres 6 different paths up to the summit. We decided to catch the cable car first, and get chair lift on the way back. The cable car was jammed to capacity and the 6 minute ride reached a maximum steepness of 31degrees.

    At the top of the cable car we followed the crowds on the main path to the summit via Yakuo-in Temple. It was slow going with hundreds of people shambling along. We took in the views at the summit and decided to hike down to the chair lift by a different route; track 4 which went via a suspension bridge. It was much narrower, prettier and quieter.

    The chair lift itself was an experience where you have to jump on a conveyor belt at the right time and fall back onto your chair lift with no safety, security, belt or bar to hang on to. It was a pretty way to get back down and we headed back to the trains, returning to Shinjuku JR station in Tokyo by 3.

    The day wasnt to end there. After a few hours of r&r in our hotel room enjoying the views of Mount Fuji at sunset, we headed out for dinner and to explore Shibuya crossing.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Busy Shinjuku & Shibuya

    November 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    After a few hours of r&r in our hotel room enjoying the views of Mount Fuji at sunset, we headed out for dinner and to explore Shibuya crossing. We spent a bit of time researching on Trip advisor and found the #3 (of 80000+) rated restaurant in all of Tokyo was only 15 minutes walk away in Shinjuku, and affordable. The first challenge would be finding it..

    It took a while to do so, Shinjuku station itself is huge and the streets outside bright, busy and overflowing with signs, lights and information. After a bit of exploring, we found it. What a find. It was basically a "cook it yourself hot pot" type affair. Choose your meats, vegetables and away you go. All you can eat in 100 minutes. All you can drink (anything) for under $20 extra wasnt a bad idea either. We rolled out of there with happy bellies, wandered Shinjuku a while and then jumped on the JR rail to Shiboya.

    We got out at the Hachiko Gate exit, rolling right out at the world famous Shiboya Crossing. It was busy, but being about 9pm, not peak. The streets here were busy still, especially for a Monday night, lit up and aglow with advertising boards, T.V. screens and flashing lights. We wandered around the place abuzz, especially the Pachinko slot machine places, which may have impaired my hearing forever.

    Just two nights and a day and a half left of our trip, as we wind up a great holiday.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Christmas in November at Disney Land

    November 7, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    A slow, tired start this morning. As at 10am we had absolutely zero idea or plan to go to Disneyland. Our only remaining plans were a half day at Harujaku. Perfect for our last half day tomorrow before our evening flight home. What would be perfect then to fill out a whole day of gorgeous weather, with minimal time to think, plan or consider? Disneyland it was!

    Sadly our treasured JR passes had now expired so we had to pay our way from Shinjuku to Maihama station (via Tokyo), around 800¥ each. Getting a day ticket proved pretty tedious and painful to get from the station, but we finally got there. This was our first major expedition within Tokyo station, and I cant stress how collossal it really is... its an absolute underground labrynth.

    We finally got to Disneyland just before noon and set about exploring the rides one by one. It goes without same that 21c, blue skies and sunshine provided a much more cheery backdrop than our earlier typhoon experience at Disney Sea a few weeks back. Further to our surprise, as of today, the park had rolled out the Christmas decorations and theme on a grand scale. So Christmas started for us on November 7th this year.

    The Park overall was a little more tame and aimed at children than DisneySea but the quality of rides waa overall pretty impressive! A few more adult rides were closed too (Startours and Thunder Mountain), which left only a couple exciting ones. No complaints about 'Its a Small World being renovated, that ride always was a recipe for insanity.

    Interestingly, for both the more adventurous rides; Space Mountain and Splash Mountain, I was sized up and pulled aside at the start of the queue for each. Height concerns you see... Japanese rides are evidently designed for shorter Japanese people. On both occasions I had to follow a staff member behind the scenes and attempt to have a test run, to see if I could squeeze/dislocate/manoeuvre my legs into the carriages. With minimal ligament danage I managed to get through both rides (which were heaps of fun). Tragically both these rides had some sort of breakdown (the Space Mountain one seemed really severe and induced staff panic) which led me stuck mangled into my seat for longer than Id hoped. Actually 4+ rides broke during the day.

    As for a brief run down of the rest of the rides we went on - Pirates of the Carribbean; a tame water ride with good special effects, Jungle Cruise; a cute boat ride with some robot animals, Haunted Mansion; a Nightmare before Christmas themed carriage ride through a haunted house, Peter Pan; impressive effects on a short flying ship ride, Monsters Inc; a carriage ride where you could activate effects by shining your torch on a monster, Pinnochio a carriage ride with good effects and Toy Story, a laser gun, point scoring carriage ride.

    The two other rides which were the most surprising were the Pooh Bear ride and the Snow White Ride. Pooh Bear had a 40 minute queue, and whilst a carriage ride, we were impressed by the uniqueness of its style, car movement and effects. The other Snow White, was shockingly dark. It looked like a ride designed for young children but was ALL dark, creepy, sinister and foreboding with dozens of random scares and loud noises. It had me laughing hard at its tone and understanding why so many kids came out in tears.

    We eventually got out of the park well after dark around 8pm. Exhausted, we got back to mall near our hotel for a Japanese-Hawaiian dinner before returning to enjoy our view for our last night. We're half packed now and ready for sleep. Just a few things to do in Harujaku tomorrow before we fly home in the evening.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Animal Cafes in Harajaku

    November 8, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We woke in Century Southern Towers in Shinjuku this morning for our final day in Japan. Still some excitement ahead before our evening overnight flight at 7.20pm from Narita direct home to Melbourne. We finished our packing, checked out, stored out bags and boarded the JR Line just two stops to Harajaku to spend some time at some 'animal' cafes. These places are not so much places to eat, but more places to pet animals. It started with Cats.. but now there's so much more.

    After a coffee and some weird cookies for breakfast, we arrived at the Musashino Owl Cafe just a short walk from the station. For a cost of around 2500 Yen ($30AU) per person, you could handle, pet and hand feed eight different owls, big and pocket sized. This was a mixed experience. Firstly, it was amazing to get up so close and interact with these stunning birds. They seemed relatively relaxed and calm for the most part. I did have my concerns about them being essentially kept tethered to a small space.. and a few spent a lot of time sitting almost wistfully looking through the window at the parkland across the road. I'm no expert, but they did appear to be healthy, well looked after and not stressed, alas many animals are kept as pets against their will and many in much worse conditions. It was a pleasure to get so close to them, and they clearly appeared to enjoy a head scratch or cheek rub. They also seemed well bonded to at least one other owl for companionship.

    Next, just a five minute walk away to Harry Hedgehog Cafe! A little cheaper and less to be worried about regarding the happiness of the animals. These tiny little guys seemed contented, with plenty of privacy, food, water, and two or three friends to cuddle up and sleep next to. They were tricky to pick up, especially when in a ball, having to get your fingers around their spikes and find their bellies. They'd either refuse to sit still or just happily fall asleep in your hands. We had a small bowl of meal-worms to feed them, which raised their excitement levels! I've never seen an animal go from extremely excited and energetic to a deep sleep within 5 seconds.

    From here, we spent another hour or so wandering around Harajaku, heading to the Design Festa Gallery to pick up a small art piece. We then explored the popular Takeshita Street, and made our way back to the hotel to pick up our bags from storage. We had about a 30 minute JR train ride from Shikoku to Ueno, and then 30-40 minute Keisei Skyliner Train ride to get us to Narita Airport.    Read more

  • Kristofor MallegromJapan Trip 2017Traveler

    Trip End

    November 9, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    What an amazing adventure we had in Japan. It certainly exceeded already high expectations. There's not too much more to add about yesterdays flight home. We departed Narita around 7.30pm on Wednesday night and arrived in Melbourne around 8am Thursday morning. It all went as well as you'd expect for a overnight flight, despite the fact that it was a relatively bumpy ride. Luckily the plane was only around three quarters full, so as soon as the guy in front jammed his chair back as far as he could, I could move elsewhere. I managed a couple of hours of 'half sleep', but by the time we slept at 11pm on Thursday night, I'd been awake nearly 40 hours.

    For the first time I can remember, we actually purchased a fair bit at the airport before heading home. The benefits of a high weight allowance and direct flight home I suppose. We picked up some plum wine, wacky flavored kit-kats (like melon and cheese), Japanese pastries and a couple souvenirs.The trip both felt like it went for ages, and flew by at the same time, such was the business of our days there and amount of experiences we squeezed in. I figured as I often do, I'd wrap this blog off with a summary of our time in Japan, with a few short lists -

    Kristofor's Top 25 of Japan

    25. Shinkansen: The infamous Japanese 'Bullet Trains' were about the most impressive I've ever been on. As punctual and efficient as all Japanese trains, these get up to speeds of around 320km p/hr and took us great distances around the country in no time. Extremely comfortable and roomy as well.

    24. Geisha Show Kanazawa: I still don't entirely understand the current 'Geisha' concept. We are assured that currently, there is no sexual aspect or prostitution that relates to services offered by Geisha. However, it seems peculiar to pay substantial sums to hire a traditionally dressed up lady to privately play the flute for you or tell you the latest knock knock joke. The show we visited in Kanazawa started off slow, but there was some laughter and amusement (and a near concussion for me) to be had from interactive game playing.

    23. Kyoto Train Station: It would probably come as a surprise that a train station made its way into my most significant Japanese experiences. Away from the platform, it had a jaw dropping 15 story open air concourse building with a dozen escalators, shops, restaurants and sky walkways.

    22. Iwatayama Monkey Park: We didn't see a tremendous amount of wildlife in Japan, so the opportunity to see these (semi) wild monkeys overlooking Arashiyama in Kyoto was a memorable one. The snow monkeys are essentially lured from the wild to this mountaintop spot at the prospect of being fed. You could get up very, very close and they seemed relatively healthy at least.

    21. Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine: Of the many Shinto temples we visited throughout Japan, this one in Takayama was probably the most memorable. Allegedly dates all the way back to the fourth century, it sits up on a hill overlooking the city.

    20. Owl Cafe & Owl Village Harajaku: A truly memorable experience to get up so close to these magnificent creatures. There were a total of 8 owls in total, which you could pet, hold and feed. Whilst the owls all appeared in good health, it was a little sad to see them tethered in captivity.

    19. Kenroku-en Gardens, Kanazawa: Known as one of the three 'great gardens' of Japan, these were a picturesque gardens including a lake, rivers, well maintained trees, ponds and lanterns. Arriving in the setting evening sun (wrong lighting) probably didn't do this spot justice. Whilst beautiful it also felt a little small and overcrowded.

    18. Mount Takao: A pretty spot about an hour west of Tokyo accessible by JR Rail. We took a cable car, chair ride and relatively easy hike to the summit here which offered spectacular views, a nice suspension bridge and a couple temples. The main track was staggeringly crowded for a week day though.

    17. Harry Harajaku Hedgehog Cafe: A memorable time getting to meet, hold, pet and feed worms to these spiky little critters. Less concern about their freedom, as they have all the companionship, space and food a little Hedgehog needs.

    16. Arashiyama Gardens: A famous and huge garden system located in the west of Kyoto. Most popular features included temples, lookouts and a bamboo forest. Also offered some really pretty autumn leaves. The area surrounding the gardens was extremely touristy and crowded.

    15. Kanazawa Castle Ruins: We enjoyed a beautiful sunny day exploring the ruins of the Kanazawa Castle. Whilst there are a few original spots, the majority of what stands here has been reconstructed after being destroyed by fire. Still a really enjoyable look at what it would have looked like hundreds of years ago.

    14. Tokyo Sky Tree: Who could resist the opportunity to travel up the Second Tallest Building in the World. Offers spectacular panoramic views of Tokyo.

    13. Shibuya Crossing: Famous as being the world's most busy road crossing, there was a special buzz about the entire area around Shibuya. Flashing lights, towering buildings, booming advertising, weird Pachinko machines and seas of people every way you look, we had a great time exploring this area.

    12. Disney Sea: Was still enjoyable despite being hammered by typhoon Lan the day we were there. We were thoroughly soaked before we even arrived, but thankfully most of the rides were undercover/ indoor. A great place with loads of original rides.

    11. Daitokuji Busdhist Zen temple: Not the most visually spectacular place, but certainly a memorable and enjoyable experience. A real haven of calm and peace and still essentially untouched for hundreds of years.

    10. Disney Land: Whilst Disney Sea probably had more adult rides, this was the bigger park, with the better vibe, more to do, and better weather on the day. Would have been even better if two of the main adult rides weren't closed on the day. Still spent a good eight hours here and the time flew by.

    9. Fushimi Inari Taisha (1000 Gates): Famous spot in Kyoto with a countless number of vermilion torii gates that wind up mount Inari. Plenty of temples, viewpoints, shrines, steps and people on the way to the top.

    8. Hida Folk Village: Most countries have them, a 'historic recreation village' which includes dozens of homes, buildings, tools and a snapshot of the lifestyle of the Japanese people over the years. Set in a really picturesque spot, this would have been even more striking if not for the downpour of rain. Really enjoyed exploring the historic buildings here and learning about Japan's history.

    7. Nijō Castle: Dates back to 1601, the spot of the rise and fall of Shogunate rule in Japan. The Ninomaru Palace had several spectacularly designed rooms designated for different waiting areas for different classes of people that would visit the Shogun. Whilst most has been recreated it was probably the best example of Japanese Art we saw on our trip.

    6. Hiroshima Memorial Museum & Gardens: An insightful, educational, fascinating and at times harrowing look at the impact of the bomb dropped in Hiroshima during world war two. The museum offers an excellent account of what occurred and amazing array of relics from the blast including a tricycle, watch, lunchbox and clothes. It was also amazing to see the remains of the Genbaku Dome, the shell of the only building to withstand the blast.

    5. Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavillion): A striking zen temple in Kyoto. This brilliant golden leaf coated structure, on the edge of a lake was one of the most beautiful buildings we saw on our trip and a real symbol of Japanese architecture (despite again, being a recreation after the original was burned down).

    4. Myōryū-ji (Ninja Temple): A place I knew little about before our trip, this was an amazing place to see. Sadly, no photos were allowed inside. This Buddhist Temple had countless sliding doors, trap doors, booby traps, hidden rooms and ambush spots. Nearly every stair, room, door and wall within moved. A real ingenious labyrinth, puzzle and maze.

    3. Lake Kawaguchiko (Mount Fuji): The absolute most stunning and striking autumn leaves I have ever seen. We were fortunate to enjoy beautiful weather and clear views here for our hike around Lake Kawaguchiko. We enjoyed views of Mount Fuji from all angles and an enjoyable return trip on the Mt.Kachi Kachi Ropeway.

    2. Miyajima Island: Gorgeous 'sacred' Island about an hour or so from Hiroshima. Understandably famous for its giant floating 'Grand Torii Gate' which changes with the tide, along with the neighboring Itsukushima Shrine, which dates back to the 12th century. The island offers countless hiking opportunities, most notably the views from the summit of Mount Misen. Dozens of peaceful, friendly deer roam around everywhere, undeterred by crowds.

    1. Himeji Castle: Arguably the most famous castle in all of Japan, and one of the most in Asia entirely. Probably the greatest 'wow' moment for me, even from a distance. The Castle towers above the neighboring town and it was quite awe-inspiring getting to its gates. A little empty and underwhelming inside, but it's overall grandeur, size, gardens and craftsmanship made it the most amazing spot of the trip for me.

    Top Five Hotel Experiences -
    1. Hotel Century Southern Tower, Tokyo
    2. Kyoto Tokyu Hotel, Kyoto
    3. Fuji Views Ryokan, Lake Kawaguchiko
    4. Ryokan Iwataya, Takayama
    5. Remm Roppongi Hotel, Tokyo

    Top 10 Culture of Japan
    + Nature of People; Genuine, honest, warm, polite, respectful, friendly, welcoming, kind (near always). Everyone is always acknowledged with a simple, respectful nod.
    + Cleanliness; Absolutely the cleanest spot I've ever been. Felt like you could eat out of many of their gutters. Almost zero rubbish, graffiti or dirt anywhere.
    + Japanese Toilets; No toilet experience will ever be the same once you have reached expert mode on Japanese toilet 'showers' - heated seats, water sprays, music and more..
    + Music Everywhere; trains, ATM's, lift doors, traffic lights. Every 9am, noon and 5pm cheerful music appears to designate that time. Sometime it's hard to know where it's coming from!
    + Efficiency of Trains; The rumors are absolutely true. 99% of Japanese trains arrive and depart to the SECOND, they pride themselves on it. The most efficient trains I've ever seen.
    + High Safety, Low Crime; I've never felt as safe and comfortable anywhere in the world. If you left a full wallet in an alley, you'd be more likely to have it returned full than stolen.
    + Cute Japan; Cartoon characters, stuffed animals, drawings, art, everything has a friendly, up-beat, happy charm about it. More cute things than I've seen anywhere before.
    + Vending Machines; are everywhere with cans of anything, including ice-cream. Not just cold though, I will miss my hot cans of (surprisingly good) Emerald Mountain coffee.
    + Japanese Onsen; Yes, getting naked with a bunch of strangers takes some getting used to, but these spa baths are extremely relaxing, with so much more variety than a regular spa.
    + Ryokan Hotels; A unique cultural experience. I loved the tatami, futon mats, yukatas and kimonos. Sleeping on the floor has never been more comfortable.

    5 Issues in Japan -
    - Lots and lots of sitting on the floor; it's a long way down to the ground, and sitting cross legged or kneeling, especially in a crowd, isn't much fun!
    - Small Size for everything; I mean I'm tall, but it could be even worse for some; small doors, clothes, beds, ride sizes (in theme parks). If you're over 180cm look out!
    - No Bins; Strange when you think how clean the country is, but you can walk around a restaurant area or market for hours without seeing any bins. Carrying rubbish isn't fun.
    - Seas of People; Big crowds can happen at a lot of places, but peak hour trains, some tourist attractions, the swarms of people at train stations can get overwhelming.
    - Obligation to Onsen; Whilst the communal bathing thing at certain places meant great Onsen baths, the obligation to do so (lack of showers in some rooms) can be a bit frustrating.

    Best of Food and Drink in Japan
    * Ramen Noodles - probably one of my favorite foods to come out of this trip, especially the spicy variety. Basically noodle soup, with other things like egg, pork, vegetables etc. The best Ramen was probably a random place at Takayama Station
    * Grilled Eel - Best fish of the trip, enjoyed at the Kanazawa fish market. In the first instance, I didn't even know it was eel, but that marinated skewer was incredibly delicious.
    * Tonkatsu - Japanese take on a schnitzel basically. Crumbed meat (often Pork) dish found in many places. Our best Tonkatsu meal was just Natalie and I in a mall in Kanazawa.
    * Sukiyaki Hot Pot - One of the best meals we had in Japan was an all you can eat (and drink) hot-pot experience in Shibuya (at the #3 rated restaurant of 80,000 in Tokyo). Basically a cook-it-yourself arrangement where you get different slices and types of meat and vegetables, throw them in a pot and mix away.
    * Okonomiyaki - A Hiroshima experience and specialty, Okonomiyaki (literally means ‘grilled as you like it’) and is a savory version of Japanese pancake, made with flour, eggs, shredded cabbage, meat/ protein and topped with a variety of condiments.
    * Steak - You can get one anywhere in the world, but we had a fantastic experience at Ikinari Steak House in Tokyo on our second night. Pay by the gram, choose your meat type, have the chef cut you a slice and cook it in front of you with many sides on offer. Standing only, but a great meal.
    * Canned Coffee - Hot Coffee, in a can, from a vending machine that actually tasted pretty good! I'm going to miss these back home, especially my favourite brand - Emerald Mountain.
    * Craft Beer - I loved the Nagahama IPA I found in a restaurant in Kyoto, but the best craft beers we enjoyed with Ben at Baird Tap House in Harajaku, Tokyo.
    * Other Beer - A decent standard overall, you can't go wrong with Kirin. I did particularly enjoy the favourite beer of our guide, Yebisu.
    * Other Drinks - Of the couple Japanese wines I tried, I found white to be decent and red to be below average but okay. My favorite discovery was a sake-liquor 'Plum Wine'. I didn't really get into Shōchū (Japanese Vodka) or Sake.    Read more

    Trip end
    November 8, 2017
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