• Tom Banks
jun. – aug. 2015

Düsseldorf and the Vicinity

Et 59-dagers eventyr av Tom Les mer
  • Schloss Rheydt

    21. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Normally I leave my car at in Mönchengladbach and travel to and from work using the train. But, because I visited Waterloo yesterday, I travelled home to Düsseldorf by car on Friday. Today, I returned my car to Mönchengladbach and caught the train back to Düsseldorf. While I was in Mönchengladbach, I decided to visit Schloss Rheydt.

    The Schloss itself seems to hold some kind of central cultural significance for the town - it is where most people seem to get married or hold functions on special occasions. The woods and gardens are full of people walking their dogs or their children (people do seem to 'walk' their children). I guess Rheydt's Haigh Hall, although there was no sign of an obscure miniature railway.

    The place is infested with peacocks, who don't seem to like the rain much and shelter from it under any nook and cranny they can find. Today was most definitely rainy; rainy and humid, energy sapping.
    Les mer

  • Oberkassel, Düsseldorf

    28. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Cologne and Düsseldorf don't like one another. The rivalry goes back centuries. Cologne is a Roman city, and hence Catholic. While Düsseldorf grew later; organically as a trading and secular city. The rivalry has maintained itself to the present day, with every difference highlighted and squabbled over. Football, of course, is one of the source of rivalries. As is the fact that Cologne is bigger, but Düsseldorf richer. Cologne is more relaxed, easy going, Düsseldorf is corporate and arrogant. Cologne claims to be on the 'right side of the river', which Düsseldorf refutes and responds with, 'no, we're the ones on the right side of the river'. Basically, they argue about everything.

    Cologne is, mostly, on the left bank of the river, and Düsseldorf is on the right bank of the river. Mostly, that is. There is one specific neighbourhood of Düsseldorf -- Oberkassel -- which betrays the 'right side of the river' mantra, and joins Cologne on the left bank of the Rhein. Yesterday, I crossed over and visited it.

    Oberkassel is where those with money in Düsseldorf live - and there are many people with money here. The buildings in the pictures are not apartments, but houses. A lot of people drive Porsches, or find other superfluous ways to display their wealth. You can't deny, though, that it would be a nice place to live. The air is clean and so are the leafy streets. The view across the river to the Altstadt is beautiful, and the large meadows (floodplains?) at the side of the Rhein are, I assume, prefect for dog walking. In short, Oberkassel is the Chelsea of Düsseldorf.

    One last thing that divides Cologne and Düsseldorf is the beer. In Cologne they brew and drink Kölsch; in Düsseldorf they brew and drink Altbier. Which leads me on to my next blog entry: Altbier.
    Les mer

  • Altbier in die Altstadt

    28. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Altbier (old beer) is the beer drunk in Düsseldorf and the nearby cities of Mönchengladbach and Krefeld. Here, in pubs, trinkhalles or kiosks, you will struggle to find a beer which isn't an Altbier, such is its dominance. Altbier, it seems, is a huge part of the culture here, a real park of the 'Westphalia' identity.

    The beer itself is a dark brown colour -- similar to a pale ale or something -- with a large foamy head. But it's much lighter than a pale ale - it's surprising just how drinkable it is. It really flows. The Altbier in the picture is significantly lighter and less heady that your typical 'Alt'.

    As shown, it is custom to take the beer in a small glass, although you can order a 'pint' should you want. Don't though. On my first weekend I did, and got a lot of stick for it. 'You are drinking Alt out of a large glass!' came the flummoxed responses. Drinking an Alt in a large glass is a real faux pas, equivalent, I would think, to going to Dublin and drinking Guinness from a wine glass. People will look at you strange - don't do it.

    There are eight Alt breweries in Düsseldorf, all located within or close to the Altstadt. They are as follows: Füchschen, Kürzer, Schumacher, Schlüssel, Uerige, Alter Bahnhof, Brauhaus Joh Albrecht and Brauerei Möhker.

    On a Wednesday (I don't know why a Wednesday) it is tradition to head down to the Altstadt, stand in the streets and drink Alt. The breweries all employ waitress' to walk around the streets with trays of Alt and hand glasses out. A glass may cost a Euro, but if you hand them 90 cents, that's fine. It's also fine if you hand them two Euros, five or ten, just don't expect any change in this case. You won't get any.

    If you head in to the Altstadt on any day other than a Wednesday, you'll sit inside the brewery as you would a nomral British pub. But you won't go to the bar to order; instead, waitress' with trays of Alt patrol, and if they see your glass is empty or nearly empty, they will take it from you and slam (literally slam) a fresh glass down on the table in front of you. Each time they do this, they'll quickly scribe a line on your beer mat, and it is that beer mat you take to the bar when you want to pay and leave; 'ok, eight scribbles, so that'll be eight Euros please.'

    In the Moon Under Water in Wigan, I've seen guys complain because the head on their pint was too large, or that it wasn't filled exactly to the brim. Here there is none of that fuss involved. You may get a beer with a large head, you may not. The waitress may come and take your beer away from you when it's half drunk, or they may not. No one, really, is keeping count. Everything is rough and crude, and it really does leave you with the feeling like you are engaging in an activity which hasn't changed much, if at all, in hundreds of years.
    Les mer

  • Giant Wooden Strawberry with Man Inside

    29. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I was 26 when I saw my first giant wooden strawberry with a man inside. I've been seeing them every since. Outside the Bilk Arcarden, what's that, a giant wooden strawberry! The other day, in the middle of a vast stretch of countryside, somewhere near Viersen, I saw another giant wooden strawberry. Giant wooden strawberries here, giant wooden strawberries there, giant wooden strawberries everywhere.Les mer

  • Boisheim

    30. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    So, I had a meeting in Holland again today. To get there, I took the Venlo train as far as a tiny little German town called Boisheim. There, my boss picked me up and we made the rest of the journey to Lichtenvoorde, Holland, in a van that was about a million degrees inside.Les mer

  • Lichtenvoorde - W.E. Engineering B.V.

    30. juni 2015, Nederland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Holland, they weren't lying when they said it was flat. My God it is flat! I headed up to Lichtenvoorde again on Tuesday, to meet with Leon at W.E Engineering, and discuss the problems we have with transmitting torque through the internal components of the motor. On the map, it doesn't look very far Lichtenvoorde, but it's a two hour drive from Boisheim, Germany. If there really are 17 million people living in the Netherlands, I don't know where they are. For two hours we saw nothing but exceeding flat countryside.Les mer

  • Neuss

    30. juni 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    So I can travel directly from Düsseldorf Bilk to Mönchengladbach, but to travel back Bilk, I have to switch trains at Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof. I did, anyway, until I found out this week that I an switch at Neuss, and that it is quicker to do so.

    I think Neuss' claim to be a 'city' are about as robust as Salford's. By that I mean, neither are cities themselves, but mere suburbs with a high-flown pretence. Still, I can't deny the place is nice.
    Les mer

  • Neanderthal

    3. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    'It's too hot,' my boss said. 'The office is closed tomorrow, you have the day off.' So, yeah, today has been a free holiday. In the morning, I had to run some errands, but from about 12 onwards I was free, left with nothing to do. The good thing, though, about Düsseldorf is its proximity to so many other cool places. I thought about going to the Netherlands again for the second time this week, but the logistics of going getting my car and then sitting in it put me off. I thought about maybe Münster, but I didn't fancy sitting on a train for over an hour. Eventually I settled on the idea of going to Bonn. I've always wanted to see the old West German capital, so I checked the train times and made my way over to Düsseldorf Bilk train station.

    As I reached the top of the steps and made my way onto the platform, I saw there was a train pulling in and that its destination was Neanderthal. Change of plan, I thought. I hopped on and off I went. Again, I repeat, the cool thing about living in Düsseldorf is having so many cool places near by and accessible.

    It took about 20-25 minutes to get to Neanderthal, which is just as well considering that it was over 35 degrees outside and somewhat hotter in the train carriage it self. I was amazed at how quickly we were out of the city, how it suddenly just stops and gives way, completely, to a dense forest. And what forest! The Neander Valley is just that; a valley, one hell of a valley. The result is an almost vertical wall of trees.

    Anyway, I made it to Neanderthal, got off the train and made my way, through forest, towards the village centre. A village centre that almost entirely caters to the tourism.

    The river than runs through Neanderthal is the Düssel, which, of course, is where Düsseldorf gets its name from. You wouldn't much know there were two rivers that followed through Düsseldorf, because compared to the Rhine the Düssel is but a pathetic stream. It is the Düssel, though, that collects the water from the Neander Valley and carries it through the hills here to the Rhine.

    I followed the Düssel for a while, through the accompanying forest, to the spot where the first Neanderthal was discovered. Again, I carried on walk for a bit, before deciding to turn back, head into the village and explore the museum.
    Les mer

  • Neanderthal Museum

    3. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The Neanderthal museum strikes a good balance between not dumbing down the subject matter yet simultaneously managing to appeal to children and/or Americans by providing lots of visual display.

    The exhibition starts of informing you about how the Neanderthal came to be discovered and what the implications were for the scientific world (Origin of Species was published just two years after the Neanderthal was discovered here) . It then moves on to focus on the environment and how modern Homo Sapiens (us!) have by tacked natural selection and that there will, in time, be painful consequences for doing so - an over reliance on antibiotics for example.

    I liked everything about the exhibition. That is apart from the 'what would the Neanderthals look like today part', which basically consisted of a five foot wax model of Jack Straw.
    Les mer

  • Oxi or Nai?

    5. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    On Friday I didn't go to work because, in the full glare of the sun, the temperature was nearing 40 degrees. And, also, I haven't received any post in over a month because DHL workers have been on strike and will remain so indefinitely. Based on that information, where would you assume I was living? Germany or Greece? Most people, I think, would say Greece. Mediterranean weather and industrial action sounds more Hellenic than it does Germanic. But it is Germany where I am living, and the two countries -- Germany and Greece -- have more in common with each other than the press would, currently, have people believe.

    In his book 'Europe: The Struggle for Supremacy, 1453 to the Present', Brendan Simms suggests that during the middle ages the ß in the German language was added as a deliberate and concious effort to de-Frenchify, de-Latinise the language (and culture) and make it more Greek. This is also true to the 'verb sent to the end of the sentence' rule. As French influence increased, the impulsive reaction in the German speaking lands was to become more Greek.

    Over the course of the last century -- during the period where a US backed military dictatorship ruled Greece -- it was to Germany where most Greek immigrants fled. This is apparent simply by observing the sheer number of Greek restaurants there are in Germany (the picture is of a Greek restaurant, Mythos, in the centre of Düsseldorf). I don't recall ever seeing a Greek restaurant in the UK.

    So given this history, it is more than a little depressing to see the political elites in both countries tearing chunks out of each other as they have been doing now for the past six months. Firstly, it was cheap of Alexis Tsipras -- upon being elected and sworn in as prime minister of Greece -- to make his first act a visit to the Kaisariani Memorial. That and to call for war repatriations from Germany. To deliberately try and draw parallels between how the Nazis treated Greece and the current Troika situation, as if there is moral equivalence, was both wrong and counter-intuitive. Germany is not the only Eurozone country and the German government is not all-powerful.

    For one thing, the domestic situation in Germany leaves the German government with less room for manoeuvre vis-a-vis Greece than it would like: how, for example, can Merkel et al justify taxpayer funded bailouts for Greece, whilst at the same time insisting that the striking postmen must take a 25% pay cut? All Tsipras achieved from demanding war repatriations was a hostile German press, who have been doing a hatchet job on him and government ever since. He must have known he was never going to get then, and that even if he did, he'd have known that they would equate to a drop in the ocean. It was needlessly provocative.

    On the central issues, though, the Greeks are right: 1. Greece needs debt forgiveness. And 2. austerity doesn't work, has never worked and will never work. Not as a means of growing an economy or of rebalancing an economy; not as a way for a government to pay down its debts and become solvent.

    It was Tsipras and Varoufakis who put the guns to their own heads by calling the referendum, and they need an Oxi vote in order to stay on as prime minister and finance minister respectively. But even a few days ago, it didn't look like they would achieve anything even should they win. That was until the appalling institution that is the IMF came out and admitted, finally, and for the first time, that Greece needs debt relief. Should the 'no' vote win the referendum (which it currently looks likely) it appears that debt forgiveness is now a very real possibility, which it certainly wasn't this time last week. That would be a victory for both Greece and common sense.

    Certainly, though, for Greece to return to growth and become functional again, it does need to make reforms. It needs to seriously tackle the issue around tax collection; it needs to increase the retirement age to that of the European norm; etc. But it certainly does not need to make all the reforms which the IMF demands. Austerity is not the answer, it is a neoliberal trojan horse.
    Les mer

  • Duisburg

    5. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    It's the unanimous opinion of everyone who's been there: 'don't go to Duisburg' they say. Well, while I'm in Germany, I want to see everything, the good the bad and the ugly. So off I went to Duisburg.

    Duisburg is one of several cities that makes up the Ruhrgebiet (Dortmund, Essen, Bochum, Gelsenkirchen are some of the others), with the Ruhrgebiet being the area most famous in Germany for 150 years of heavy industry. Steel, coal, the whole lot. My trip today to Duisburg was my first venture into the Ruhrgebiet.

    I have to admit, when I got on the train I was in two minds about getting off at Duisburg. It was an Intercity train to Amsterdam and everyone on there had either a rucksack or a suitcase. They were all off to Amsterdam, I was off to Duisburg. Anyway, when we pulled in to Duisburg I had enough strength if will to step off the train and not carry on to Amsterdam.

    I made my way out of the station, on to the Portsmouth Platz, and tried to get an intuitive sense of where the city centre proper lay. As there was a cluster of tall office blocks to my left, I decided to head that way. And off I went for a few hours wandering the streets of Duisburg.

    Duisburg, the city centre, is not particularly nice but also not completely hopeless or without charms. It's not decaying and it certainly isn't dangerous. For whatever reason the Rathaus (the town hall) is some what out of the centre, and I headed there. Well, this part of the city was really quite nice as was the Hafen a few kilometres further north . So, all in all, Duisburg is pleasant enough and I'm willing to be a lone, defiant voice and say, 'Duisburg, do go there.'
    Les mer

  • Duisburg Innenhafen

    5. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Duisburg Innenhafen, a vast network of water channels just off the Rhein in Duisburg. Used, in the past, for loading cargo and shipping it up the Rhein. Today It has been gentrified and is now a combination of offices and apartments. It's an interesting landscape and by far the best area in DuisburgLes mer

  • Frankreichfest

    12. juli 2015, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Ever since the signing of the Élysée Treaty in 1963 France and Germany have gone to great lengths to become as united as possible. The Frankreichfest in Düsseldorf -- that takes place every year on the weekend around the 14th of July -- is carried out with that intention in mind.

    It was a rainy weekend but that didn't stop over 100,000 visitors making their way to the Altstadt and checking out the Frankreichfest. I went along with a few French friends and we potted about the stalls. I was happy to try a Galette but steadfastly refused to give the Champignons a go. Cheeses, wines, Crepes, old Citroen cars, a 15 meter Eiffel Tower – everything you would expect was there. Each year, it is the turn of a different French region and this year it was Brittany’s. So there was pipe music, too, and people dressed in traditional Breton costume

    Meanwhile, in Brussels, Eurozone leaders gathered to negotiate the future of Greece. It is generally assumed that Merkel has run a tight ship in Germany and in Europe for the past decade or so. Whilst, on the other hand, Hollande is often reported as being the most unpopular French president there's been. One thing is for sure, though, and that is that Hollande and Hollande alone who has been the sole rational voice over the Greece crisis. This weekend was a triumph for French diplomacy, and Hollande has single handedly prevented Germany from inflicting a lot of reputational damage upon itself.
    Les mer