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  • Day 59–60

    Ihlara valley

    November 14, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Alright where is my notebook... There is so much to see here that I have to remember what happened yesterday...

    I actually don't, and even more so didnt, know anything about cappadocia, other than that it has these weird rock formations due to volcanic stone, that there are "fairy chimneys", and that it's supposed to be of " exceptional natural wonders" according to Wikipedia. I didn't know where it starts; and so I stumbled upon the Ihlara valley which is already cappadocia. Sweet, I made it!

    The weather was rainy, very wet even when dry, and not good for taking pictures, so don't hold it against me. But the Ihlara valley had a lot of churches literally carved into the rocks on both sides, and is really quite beautiful even in shitty weather. The churches had some engravings/paintings still, which are all the more impressive, given that these stem from the 6th century. First time, of many times here in cappadocia, that I ask "how did they make this back then!?". (Well, come on, look at what the greeks made way before!)

    Ironically they, at some entrance gate, boast that the monks in these churches were allowed to live in Harmony even when the area turned islamic. Sorry turkey, as beautiful as your country is, my current opinion is that it is not something to boast about after the armenian genocide, the massacre of greeks after ww1, and not giving a shit about your own jews in ww2. But I digress.

    (Actually during the ottoman empire this was true, they were allowed to coexist and not be Muslim; you just had to pay more taxes.)

    Next day the weather turned way better so I managed to make these sunny pictures for you. And the chimneys were lit!

    Less nice was this ticketing system here. They charge 330 lira to go in; fine, but you can easily walk around and not pay anything, I found out. Then the next day, when I wanted to visit one other bit—some old monastery — they wanted me to pay again because the ticket " is only valid for one day". (At the exit mind you, because the entrance is not well checked). Well, no, bugger off: I bullshitted my way out of it and didnt pay again. (Im a good bullshitter.) This is why I don't like touristy places, they charge you for everything everytime.

    Immediatly in my way to cappadocia proper (where I am currently writing this) I stumbled upon the best part, perhaps, of the valley: the weekly market. Such a nice place, such good food and nice people, and such nice culture. Old men playing backgammon, drinking tea, smoking, and many local people shopping around. I totally forgot I was in a touristy area.

    (Im not saying cappadocia isn't beautiful; it absolutely is!)
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