Day 2 • Espagnac to Le Picarel, 18 km

We are now in the valley proper. The coming days will require a series of climbs and descents, with spectacular stretches along the ridges of the limestone cliffs, following the twists and turns of the Cele River - and with dramatic views of the valley and the cliffs on the opposite side.

Last night we enjoyed an excellent dinner on the terrace of the gite. Nestled by the river, with a large garden, it’s a delightful and relaxing spot. Yesterday we had seen only two other walkers, the couple from Paris we'd walked with early on. But when we arrived at the gite in Espagnac, we saw other walkers, and day visitors. By dinner time we were 14 around the table: 2 Englishmen - brothers, a Belgian couple, a French couple, 2 French ladies, and a family of four from Quebec - parents and two boys. That often happens on The Way - at least on the quieter routes. You may not see anyone during the day - but perhaps they are just ahead or just behind. If you are all stopping at the same place - VOILA!

From the garden of the gite, we could look up to see the top of the ridge - this is where we were headed. So this morning started with a sharp ascent. These sorts of climbs are much easier first thing in the morning. Barely half an hour later, we were ‘on top’ looking back down at the village of Espagnac. It was a wonderful view and the first of many.

The next highlight was making our way down to the village of Brengues and finding the bar/café/boulangerie/épicière was open. An opportunity for a second coffee and to buy a baguette and jambon de pays for lunch. We were set.

The highlight reel continued with medieval fortifications and village houses built into the cliff face, troglodyte houses on the plateau, the villages of Saint-Sulpice and Marcilhac-Sur-Cele - and finally our chambre d’hôte for thé night, Le Picarel. We didn't end up visiting Marcilhac - owing to a misunderstanding on our part as to the location of Le Picarel - but the views from above were delightful, as was Le Picarel, so we quickly got over any feelings of disappointment.

Our guide book describes yesterday’s stage as easy to moderate, and today, tomorrow and the next as strenuous. And looking back on today, I’d say the comparison is about right. But not so difficult because the stages that most walkers follow (including us) are relatively short. The terrain was tricky at times - rocky paths covered in loose stones, easy to roll an ankle or take a slide - so we walked at a leisurely pace taking extra care when needed. But more than that, this is a path to be savoured.

Un jour exceptionnel ❤️Læs mere