Day 1 Lectoure to La Romieu, 18 kms

The first day of our long walk was wonderful.

Two of the lovely friends we have met since living in Lectoure - sisters Marie and Natalie - said they’d like to walk part of the way with us this morning. We were touched and delighted. The small village of Marsolan about 8 kms on would be the perfect destination. We could all enjoy a coffee together, they would walk back to Lectoure and we would continue on a further 10 kms to La Romieu. Parfait.

The French and I met Marie, and later Natalie, through volunteering at the Pilgrims welcome ‘desk’, run by the parish in Lectoure, along with donativo pilgrim accommodation at the parish presbytery. Marie is one of the coordinators. Veronique (‘the chief organiser’) and her husband Emmanuel gave us such a warm welcome when we enquired about helping out and we are delighted to now count them, and Marie and Natalie, as friends. Once again, the Camino connection has given us another special gift. Veronique and Emmanuel also said they wished they could come too this morning, but they would only just be returning from holidays the night before, so instead they sent their very best wishes.

As we had not far to walk today, there was no need to start too early. We met Marie and Natalie around 9 and off we all went at a leisurely pace. It was a glorious day, with blue blue skies. As has been the case for the past week or so, morning temperatures are quite cool, sometimes barely double digits, but by early afternoon closer to 30. Today was no different. By the time we arrived at Marsolan shortly after 11 it was already 25 degrees.

Just as we four approached the cafe on foot, a car pulled up. It was Veronique and Emmanuel, who’d driven to Marsolan to join us for our coffee break. What a lovely surprise. 😍 We spent a wonderful hour together and eventually it was time for The French and I to continue. Just as well that we only had 10 kms to walk as, by the time we said our ‘au revoir’ for now, it was approaching 30 degrees. We have walked the path to La Romieu many times and knew it had little shade. So ‘on y va’. Off we go.

The next two hours or so were enjoyable, uneventful and … hot. I often think that walking with a full backpack, say between 8 and 10 kilos inc water, can add at least 5 degrees to the ‘feels like’ temperature. And even more on a hot day without shade. That’s how it felt this afternoon but we had not far to go. At 5 kms out we were already discussing the ice cream we would have when we arrived. La Romieu is a picturesque and interesting town, really a village. But we have visited many times - it’s always included on the itinerary for family and and friends - so no sightseeing. Straight to the ice cream and then a short walk to our lovely Chambre D’hôte Le Perrouet in the home of the very welcoming Marie Helene. We will have dinner nearby at Chez Angeline - more on that tomorrow

Finally, a (long) story of serendipity to share. I mentioned it was hot this afternoon. One of the photos shows me using my scarf as protection from the sun. It works so well. I confess to a penchant for scarves. I have more than I would admit, both here and in Australia. And I always take two scarves when I’m walking a camino. They are such useful multi purpose items in all sorts of weather. I have acquired a few of the perfect size, 80% cotton and 20% silk, light, quick drying and great for all weather. I’ve bought them in Spain and in France. And of course I have my favourites for walking. One of them has been such a favourite that I decided not to bring it on this long walk for fear it would finally disintegrate from overuse. It’s safely stored in my suitcase. But no problem, I had two others. Until … horror - a few months I couldn’t find my next in line favourite walking scarf. When I discovered that I’d lost it, I wasn’t sure when I’d last worn it. It could have been weeks before. I went to all of our usual haunts - cafes and restaurants - in Lectoure, but no luck. I was sad, and angry with myself for being so careless 😞

I tried in vain to find a replacement that I liked as much. Even The French got on board in the search and when we were in Bordeaux, Toulouse and more recently in Hondarribia and Saint Jean de Luz, where we were always on the lookout for just the right one. I did end up buying another, so I would have two for this camino. But it wasn’t the same 😢. Yes, I know, these are not serious problems in the scheme of things.

Fast forward to yesterday afternoon - all ready for our walk. Backpacks packed, mine including two scarves, one of which was my recent reluctant purchase. We umm-ed and aah-ed about where to have dinner and finally decided to try the Italian restaurant so we walked by in the afternoon to reserve but they were closed - fermeture exceptionnelle - for a family wedding. Domi suggested we go to Lou Babot, an excellent and more expensive restaurant. We’d only been there twice before - the last tîme about 3 months ago so we didn’t really know the owners. I thought it a bit of a splurge but Thé French said ‘pourquoi pas’ - why not? So we made a reservation for 7pm.

The husband and wife owners are very kind. The husband the chef, the wife the server. Soon after we finished our main meal, the lady came to our table with a piece of fabric. At first I didn’t recognise it. And then she said (in French) ‘I think this might be yours and you left it here the last time you came. I’m sorry we didn’t know you, and had no phone number so we didn’t know how to be in touch’. When we’d first arrived that evening she hadn’t recognised me but later, on reflection, she thought I may have been the one who left the scarf all those months before. I couldn’t have been more happy and grateful. Domi and I were beyond surprised at the serendipity of it, to be reunited with my scarf the night before starting our long walk. I was so happy - The French took a photo. (If you’re wondering what that tall vertical dagger like thing is on the table - the restaurant specialises in brochettes. Yum.)

Now I had threes scarves and I only wanted two in my backpack. So this morning as we left, I took the third ‘reluctant recent purchase’ scarf in a small bag and placed it at at the door of the charity shop in Lectoure. I think having one of my favourite scarves back put a spring in my step today. Retelling this happy story now, it seems quite ridiculous - but I think some of my friends who are also scarf lovers will understand.

Another hot day forecast for tomorrow but it’s another short day for us - so we will be fine. And, in any case, I have my scarf. 😎Read more