Lalitpur

Another day in Kathmandu, we woke up to the same breakfast we had the day before. Lisa started to have some problems with her throat, similar to my experience in Bangladesh. I guess Kathmandu has its own share of pollution.

We were planning on visiting both Lalitpur and Bhaktapur today. I suggested that we try to go via public transport to get a better feel for the local experience. We headed to Ratna Park which took around 15 to 20 minutes, then we started to ask around for the correct ride going towards Lalitpur's Patan Durbar Square, with various results. Eventually, a driver said they were headed there so we got on that one.

It was surprisingly comfortable inside, air-conditioned, and not too crowded. Perhaps we got on a good one. However, we passed by Patan a few blocks and I don't think it was actually stopping by the Durbar Square so we asked to be dropped at the next stop where we walked the rest of the way.

We first stopped by Oku Bahal, a Buddhist temple with the Vajra symbol in front of a white stupa. It was smack dab in the middle of some apartments arranged in a square. Lalitpur had a very unique city design and architecture, distinct from Kathmandu.

The next stop was the Mahabuddha Temple, surprisingly a Theravada Buddhist temple with Khmer architecture. It was so out of place as this sort of temple is usually found in Thailand and Cambodia based on my own experience. Nevertheless, it was awesome to see such diverse Buddhist temples all just a stone's throw away from each other.

A couple of blocks away was Lalitpur's Patan Durbar Square. We had to buy our tickets here which gave us access to the main area which was like a complex of some sort, now turned into various museums. Lisa and I spent a long time here, taking some time away from each other and just exploring on our own. I eventually saw her again after passing through several areas where we continued outside to see the other structures around the square. The architecture of the temples here were next level and entirely different from Kathmandu's, seeing as Lalitpur was also a previous capital of a different king.

Next, we went to Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, the Golden Temple. This one was particularly impressive both in scale and grandeur. The whole temple was indeed coated with gold, including the Buddha statue which was glamorous to look at.

Continuing on our exploration, we got to Shree Bagalamukhi Temple next. A Hindu temple where a towering pagoda stood looming from afar. Inside was much peaceful, with devotees lighting incense and going around. It was really fascinating for me to find out that there was a shrine dedicated to Kunti here. A figure from the Sanskrit epic, Mahabharata. I was also struck with the fragrance of the incense, and I tried to ask around but I couldn't find the source at all.

With most of the spots out of the way, I asked Lisa if there was anywhere else she wanted to go. She pointed out the Ahsoka Stupa which was mentioned in one of the museums back at Patan Durbar Square.

"Sure, let's go."

We found it in the center of another apartment block, a much larger white stupa with the usual Buddha eyes and prayer flags connected to the buildings. I mused out loud how it must be like to wake up in the morning with those eyes staring at you outside the window.

With most of the sites in Lalitpur covered, we decided to head back to Patan to hail a taxi to Bhaktapur as our confidence had dwindled in using public transportation, especially as we were now going even further away from Kathmandu.Read more