Cappadocia

We woke up around 5AM to get ready to go to the airport. Our cab was already waiting for us and we sort of got there on time but got lost in the sauce with regards to getting our boarding passes. We ended up trying the kiosks multiple times before being redirected to the check-in counter. We had to ask the staff to help us cut in line since we were about to be late. We made it just in the nick of time though and got on the airplane almost immediately.

A short flight later, we found ourselves in Kayseri. It was much colder here compared to Istanbul and it was quite a welcome change. It was time to get a feel on how to get to Goreme though and at first I was asking some people outside and they said they could help but it seems like in the end we weren't allowed on the van since we didn't have a reservation or some other random reason. We took a cab to the nearby bus station instead and got on a bus heading to Goreme which was both convenient, hassle-free, and the cheaper option.

Even on the approach to Goreme, I was already super impressed by the magical landscape. The famous fairy chimneys of Cappadocia were truly magnificent. Stepping down from the bus and seeing what kind of place Goreme was first-hand was nothing short of jaw-dropping. Like an enchanted city nestled in a nest of fairy chimneys. I couldn't complain. Our first stop was to buy bus tickets going to Pamukkale which the kind old man happily helped us with. We asked where to eat and he pointed us to Sedef. It was safe to say that the recommendation was highly appreciated as the food we got there was amazing and even cheaper than Istanbul. I think it's one of the finest and oldest establishments in the area.

We got some pizza and some eggplant, but the highlight for me was the free bread they gave and the delicious spreads. After stuffing ourselves and re-energizing, we started to ask around for Hot Air Balloon prices but the prices were a bit to exorbitant for our tastes, ranging from 240 Euros to 350 Euros. Yikes.

We went to our hostel, the Homestay Cave Hostel, which as the name suggests was a hostel with rooms built inside a cave. Once we got settled in, it was time to embark on the first adventure of the day. I was quite hesitant at first since I was still tired and sleepy but the day wasn't going to wait and we headed off.

On the way, we stopped by Galerie Ikman. I had thought that it was a nice carpet store but the inside totally surprised us as the owner had turned its space and arranged it to look like any photography studio's dream. The carpets earthy tones and geometric designs made for such a pretty sight. They were charging about 10 Euros to take a photo with yourself in it, but we were more than happy to just take photos of his work which was for free.

A short walk away, we finally got to start our hike which was going to take us from Love Valley, White Valley, Uchisar Castle and Pidgeon Valley. A loop hike starting and ending in Goreme. It was great to finally be able to get away from the city and crowds, the trail itself was very peaceful with not much people.

Love Valley got its name because of the phallic shape of its fairy chimneys. Getting up close and personal with them was quite an experience as they were truly towering above us! The trail was difficult to find at times and we would often have to backtrack and try out different routes but we more or less kept moving on.

White Valley was another amazing place, with white wavy cliffs and even the ground too. We met a Belgian family here and took some photos for them. Thankfully right above was a vendor selling fresh orange juice and by God, it was the best after a hike like that. It was pretty flat until our approach towards Uchisar. We could see it all the way from Goreme but to actually have now walked all the way here and seeing it up close. It was quite high up! I wasn't exactly looking forward to climbing it since I was already feeling tired but we took it one step at a time.

The fatigue was quickly replaced with a sense of wonder as Uchisar seemed out of this world once again, so different from Goreme seeing as the village was built on top of a rocky mountain. We stopped by a cafe where I got me some lemonade while Kama had her cake and coffee. A guy from Tajikistan was manning the place and we stayed for awhile as a downpour of rain passed by. We finished the hike to the supposed highest point of the day, but it wasn't over as we still wanted to climb up to the top of the castle so after paying for the entrance fee, off we went inside caves and a few flights of stairs. The views at the top were so worth it. Seeing the endless expanse of the colorful land of Cappadocia was just...wow.

Down the other side of Uchisar, the trail going back to Goreme cut through Pidgeon Valley. We were wondering why it was called that way, perhaps because of all the holes and tiny caves built on the cliffside. After researching though, it was actually for real. They used to farm a lot of pidgeons for their meat and their poop for fertilizer.

The hike back was very peaceful with the sun setting behind us and behind Uchisar, it was getting dark and cold but nothing to worry about. There was a rope section that was fun to conquer but other than some caves and mud, everything went pretty swell. We quickly found ourselves back in Goreme, aching to try out the local Hamam and a massage.

The Hamam experience for me was quite... all right. It wasn't exactly the best seeing as it was municipally owned, the prices were cheaper but it was public. Still, it was late and we were the only ones there so we had an almost private experience. I didn't get the full course as I was ushered into the sauna then straight into the baths where I got a foam massage and an actual back-cracking massage. I didn't even know my spine could crack like that but I wasn't complaining! I was feeling quite refreshed after but also peckish.

The ol' reliable Sedef was actually full, a far cry from the morning. It seems like everyone in Goreme would just come here for dinner. We opted to find someplace else and ended up eating Chinese instead. A much quieter experience as they were already closing up and we were their last customers. I got some soup and noodles which was exactly what I was looking for after the Hamam. We got back to our hostel already pretty well late into the night. I had to catch up on some sleep because Cappadocia was really going to take a lot from us. Tomorrow was going to be even earlier than today since we were going to try and catch the hot air balloons for sunrise.Read more