MakaoJardim Saint Francisco22°11’42” N 113°32’30” E
5 listopada 2024, Makao ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
Arriving at Macau around 2 AM was a doozy. I was hoping I could get some sleep but they made the airport pretty sleep-proof with these horribly designed chairs. The sun was far from rising and I tried to get what sleep I could but looks like it wasn't happening anytime soon. At around 4 AM or so I bit the bullet and decided to just go out and explore the city.
I found a taxi that took me near Fisherman's Wharf. The night was calm and quiet with a light drizzle every now and then. It was strange to see this side of Macau, a city so full of the hustle and bustle. I made my way to the only restaurant open at this ungodly hour and found myself inside a casino. I guess it made sense why it was open. I was surprised to see that a lot of staff here were Filipino, we got along splendidly. The meal I ordered was some fish congee but it was surprisingly a huge serving, one I could not even finish.
When I went out, the sky was still dark but it was about time I got a move on. I went back to the Fisherman's Wharf to grab some pics of the Amphitheatre and other Roman-esque buildings. The next stop was Lou Lim Ioc Garden. At this time, the city was starting to just slightly wake with some people already out and about doing their morning exercises, especially in the garden which surprisingly had a certain amount of people.
I wanted to visit other sites as well but they were still closed so I made my way up towards Na Tcha Temple, a small unassuming Taoist temple right beside the Walls of St. Paul Church, one of Macau's most visited sites.
I went down the stairs towards Largo de Senado, the historic district of Macau, and stopped by St. Dominic's Church. It had a yellow facade and a green door that provided a pretty good contrast. I took a pic at Lou Kau Mansion and was told by a half-naked dude who was just beginning his morning routine that it was still closed. The main plaza was a rainbow of colors, mostly pastel on Portuguese buildings so it was pretty impressive to see them in contrast with Macanese or Chinese elements.
The sun was pretty much up at this time but the day was cloudy, I proceeded further to visit St. Joseph's Seminary but it was closed to the public. I did get a picture of a devotee praying to Mother Mary. With most of my list ticked off and not being bothered to back track to visit the other closed sites, I went to a taxi stand and went back to the airport with plenty of time to spare to just relax while waiting for my flight back to Tokyo. Czytaj więcej
BhutanThimphu27°28’17” N 89°38’1” E
20 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
The last day. With a melancholic feeling, I said goodbye to Emily around 5 AM as she went out to catch her flight with Fifa. We shared one final hug before I went back to bed, my mind still swirling with thoughts. The morning was heavier and a bit difficult for me to deal with. I was even a bit too late for breakfast and decided to just skip it. I met up with Fifa and asked what was on the agenda and to check if we were able to go to Ha today. Seems like it was a no-go and Kyichu Lhakang was still off the table. I asked if we could go to Thimpu to check out Simtokha but Fifa said it was too far.
We went to find a gas station first to refuel, on the way Fifa made some calls and it looks like Ha was now open but the bad news was we couldn't find the right fuel for the car so it looks like it really wasn't meant to be this time. We decided to go back to Tachog Lhakhang again, the very first place we looked at from afar on the first day. This time around, we got to approach it by crossing the bridge and doing a small hike. I was welcomed by this girl with glasses who taught me about the history and lore of the temple, which was related to a horse. I prayed to both Shakyamuni and Avalokiteshvara here. We went around to find a rock where Guru Rinpoche was said to have meditated. I enjoyed seeing the mountain ranges around this area and I felt really connected to nature as the river washed by. Fifa was suddenly open to the idea of going to Thimphu so we headed off to Simtokha Dzong.
The first dzong in Bhutan, it carried much weight and I felt the energy of the place. There were some royal officials there accompanied by guards and the monks had their full attention. After going around and paying respects to the various deities, I had the opportunity to finally try Sho, the Bhutanese dice divination. Emily got her chance at Chimi Lhakhang and I also wondered about mine. The monk advised me to make a wish, and I made a fervent one, a wish that I carried with me across Bhutan and ending it at this last day. As I released the three dice, each one of them landed on a 6. The highest possible result achievable in Sho. The monk was surprised and gave me a huge thumbs up, I guess this was good news so I mirrored him. Could my prayers have been heard? Nevertheless, I felt well and confident, as if now everything would be alright. Fifa interpreted what the monk was saying, this was known as the God's dice, a highly auspicious one at that. Having the support of the high heavens, I carried on the rest of the day with a lighter heart.
We went to Changangkha Lhakhang next, where Tashi said he lived nearby. This was a much smaller temple focusing on Avalokiteshvara. There seemed to be a festive mood here as there were a lot of people, it was a very busy one at that with the coming and going of the faithful. I prayed here as well and finished going around the temple perimeter spinning the prayer wheels. Fifa and I went outside to catch amazing views of Thimphu before grabbing our last lunch together in the form of momos and fried rice.
On our way to the airport, as I viewed the mountains that welcomed me with open arms, I felt a bit of a heartache. Bhutan was actually so amazing and beautiful and has been so kind to me. I felt so grateful for the journey, despite the weight I was carrying with me throughout. Fifa then sang for me, the song that I heard a few times playing in the car as we went around the country: Yar La Aee. It was such a heartfelt moment that remained etched in my heart and until now seemed to be one of the most emotionally resonant moments in Bhutan. As if the whole trip's significance was now only dawning on me in those short moments of reflection as the notes flowed. What did I come here to accomplish? What did I learn? In the end, as the sun shone through its lands, I realized I was really glad I came. I was completely and utterly grateful for the opportunity, the experiences, the people, and the places I've experienced.
Then we started to play various versions of Yak Legbhi Lhadar, another traditional Bhutanese folk song from the movie Lunana. This was really a wonderful farewell for me as we got to Paro. Fifa took me the the Paro Airport Bird's Eye Viewpoint where we traded socials and admired the view together. He took me to the airport and walked me towards the gates while still carrying my bag, we shared a hug and walked our separate ways. I was ready to face the future. Czytaj więcej
BhutanDrugyel Dzong27°27’53” N 89°19’6” E
19 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Emily and I were supposed to go to Ha today but Fifa had told us the road was not accessible due to some construction work. We tried to go for Kyichu Lhakhang again only to realize that it's still closed to this day due to the Queen Mother's presence.
We then went to Drukgyel Dzong, which was still closed but there was a temple inside the caves that was dedicated to Tara. Fifa said this temple was known to grant wishes so I made my prayers here. Fifa suggested that we could check out a nearby monastery above the mountains so we opted for that one. Our journey took us high up through zig-zagging roads until we reached the entrance where some cows were. We walked inside the main temple to see that there was an English class being held for the monks there. It was a very interesting experience and we were genuinely curious. We took our seats and were even served some tea and snacks. Emily was all for it and she ended up teaching the monks some English. I sat by one of the monks and he urged me to teach as well, I told him sure and when he called the teacher's attention there was no more backing out for me. I went ahead and taught them future tense and past tense for the verbs on the whiteboard. After class, they all sang these cute nursery rhyme about fruits.
We then went to the Paro Museum where Lisa went off to do her hike while Emily and I checked out the National Museum. It had one of the most interesting layouts I've seen for a museum. An old watch tower for Rinpung Dzong that was converted into a museum. I enjoyed the 3D mandalas as well as the Zambala room where I made some fervent wishes. Emily and I got to learn about plenty of things, the history of the Kings, the traditional clothes, but I was especially fascinated by the Buddhist part of the museum. We met up with Lisa back at the car and drove her to the airport where we said our farewells. And now it was just me and Emily, with one man down it felt a bit lonely. We decided to check out Rinpung Dzong, the biggest dzong in Paro and one that we both missed initially but Lisa had to go see it since she arrived before us. It was a quiet place, free too. There weren't any monks present so we weren't able to access the main temple but we got to overhear some tour guides talking about Samsara. Outside, we also got to do some people-watching as a batch of tourists arrived. We even got to see a bee hive right by the window of the dzong. Fifa said having that was good luck.
Then we went to go for lunch. I was carrying a lot of burdens that kept on piling up as the days went on and I had to confide with Em about my worries, even Fifa picked up something was heavy with our conversations and he put on his earphones to give us some privacy. After talking, I felt a bit lighter. We spent the last night together exploring the Paro Craft Market where I managed to get a cypress bracelet, completing the third bracelet I was collecting for the four Vajrayana Buddhist countries.
Emily and I spent the night at the hotel doing the accounting and preparing for the final day ahead. She was leaving early in the morning while I was still flying in the afternoon. Czytaj więcej
BhutanTaktsang Monastery27°29’31” N 89°21’48” E
18 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Today was the big day, we were supposed to save the best for last but Lisa was leaving a day before us so we switched things up a bit to have Tiger's Nest come first before Ha Valley. Even Fifa was coming to hike with us and it's his first time seeing Paro Taktsang as well so I was excited for him too.
When we got to the trailhead, it was pretty cold already. We bought our tickets which were the most expensive ones so far and rightly so since this was Bhutan's crown jewel. Emily and I both rented some walking sticks and began the hike up.
It was a pretty good trail that first started us in the forest, going higher towards rocky outcrops all the while having prayer flags and stumbling upon a giant prayer wheel or two. Emily was the first amongst us to get hit by altitude sickness since we were already above 2,400 meters. She was getting a bit of a headache but we kept on. Throughout the hike, I was chanting Guru Rinpoche's mantra as he was known to have meditated in the Tiger's Nest. Fifa overheard me and we talked about it for a bit.
We passed by the first checkpoint which was a cafe that offered views of the temple but it was still over at the other side. Looks like it was still going to be a long way. We pushed through and at this point, even I could feel a bit already with my head feeling a bit heavier and my breath getting thinner.
Soon enough we reached the main descent towards it which provided us some of the best photos we could get of the Tiger's Nest. Right as we crossed the bridge, we also witnessed a wonderful waterfall, the tallest so far we've seen in Bhutan. As we approached the main monastery, we had to give away our phones as they weren't allowed and we also couldn't bring our things inside so everything had to be put in a locker. We took of our shoes and explored every nook and cranny of the place. I paid homage to each deity especially Guru Rinpoche who I made my wishes to, all the while chanting the Seven Line Prayer. I explained some of the Buddhist lore to Lisa and Emily including the story of Avalokiteshvara and Tara. We even got to go inside the actual Tiger's Nest which was a cave that we had to do some maneuvering to get to. After we were done exploring the main monastery, another temple at the top of a mountain higher than this one caught my eye and I asked Fifa if we could go there and he said it was possible. Emily didn't want to risk making her altitude sickness worse so she decided to hike back down and wait for us while Lisa and I opted to go for it. I still wanted to go for it despite the difficulties since we were already here. Fifa said that that temple was known as Heaven.
The three of us made our way up there, passing by temples inside caves until we got to the main temple at the top. It was quite unassuming yet beautiful nonetheless. A monk asked if I wanted to enter and I said yes so he opened up the lock and I got to pray. With that out of the way, I'm glad we could finally start going down. We met up with Emily back at the cafe before continuing our way down. Fifa and I kinda just pushed on through and on the way we stumbled upon a hundred year old tree where people seemed to be leaving their holy threads. Since it was my third day too, it felt right so I left mine here as well, tying up my pilgrimage to Tiger's Nest.
The cafe was a bit too expensive so we opted to have lunch back at town and Fifa took us to a really good one, a restaurant that Lisa was able to research on even before. I got some fried cheese momos and chicken fried rice but it was absolutely delicious that I had to thank the lady for her recommendation.
Thaye had arranged for us a free tour around Namgyal Artisanal Brewery since he knew some people even after work hours and also a Hot Stone Bath at a much cheaper price so the day was far from over. First we had to check-in to our new hotel since we checked out of Khamsum Inn today, I had no idea why we had to do that but I guess that happened. After we got settled in, we went to the brewery where we were welcomed and given a private tour of the facilities. It was too bad it was already late at night so things weren't running but it was great to see the behind the scenes of the place. Since I didn't drink alcohol, Emily, Lisa, and Fifa (even though he was driving) got to do some taste testing as well as drinking some fun concoctions. My order wasn't too bad too, who knew a mocktal consisting of orange and vanilla would go so well?
Satisfied with our drinks, we went on to end the day with a much deserved Hot Stone Bath, the traditional Bhutanese way of rejuvenating the mind, body and spirit. The water is heated up with stones burned outside and dropped into the baths which made it like the onsen of Japan. It was a great way to unwind after the hike. We would just yell out our bath number and the people outside would throw in a stone or two that would immediately heat the water up. What I loved most about it were the medicinal herbs that made the water smell so good. We spent a good time here until 9:30 PM or so. Fifa was the first to leave and I followed suit to find him chowing down on some food. We all went back to the hotel afterwards, no dinner for the three of us as I felt pretty full still. Czytaj więcej
BhutanGangtey Gonpa27°30’0” N 90°7’60” E
17 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
After eating a hearty breakfast and taking my cold shower for the day (the coldest one so far in Bhutan), we hopped back in the car to make the long journey back to Paro. Saying goodbye to our host family was bittersweet, and the cute little daughter was crying as she said goodbye.
I've had the left seat the whole time but I guess it was my turn to sit in the middle. We stopped by Wangdue Dzong on the way back. I had no idea what it was and I had just listed it as a potential place to stop by, only to realize that it was perhaps the second most impressive dzong we have seen so far. It burned down a few years ago and I remember reading about it in the Crane Center that the Bhutanese people donated in solidarity to have it rebuilt, even by donating family heirlooms and such.
In terms of design and architecture, everything stood out impeccably. There's just something about Bhutanese architecture that looks so clean, sharp, and perfect. Notwithstanding the fact that we were the only ones here with full freedom to roam around the grounds, its halls, the towers, and everywhere our legs would take us. I even stumbled upon a black covered area where they worshipped Mahakala in the form of the god of death apparently as they had guns on the pillars by the altar, as well as the macabre decor of skeletons. I saw a tiny cat that didn't want to be petted but it skirted around the temple grounds freely. The main temple also had a painting of Samsara upfront with Guru Rinpoche and Shakyamuni Buddha inside. After exploring every nook and cranny, I went outside and saw Lisa sitting by the edge so I went over there and joined her as we both overlooked the river and valley.
We met up with Fifa once again outside the temple and we drove on onwards towards Paro. Once we got to Punakha, Fifa asked us if we wanted to do a hike towards a temple. At first, I thought it was just a random temple but we had nothing else planned for the day so we went for it. We crossed a bridge coated with prayer flags and began the hike. Soon enough we found ourselves surrounded by the beautiful terraced rice fields and it as the hike went on, it just kept getting better and better. I found myself taking photos every few steps up, the terraced fields extended as far as the eyes could see. Now though, it was time to hike which was a prelude to the Tiger's Nest hike we were doing the next day.
Turns out this was actually Khamsum Valley Namgyal Chorten, I have read about it before but didn't include it in the itinerary because I thought it was just going to be a long hike for a small temple. Little did I know that the journey was much better than the destination in this case. The main chorten at the top was unique because it had a 3D mandala on the first floor. I also paid respect to the deities on the 2nd and 3rd floors. There was a guide and one tourist who came down from a hatch to the roof top and when they closed it, I curiously went up to check it out too. The payoff was immense as it gave me the absolute best view of the entire Khamsum Valley, the meandering river, the surrounding mountains, and the layered rice fields. I was later joined by Fifa, Emily, and Lisa. Thaye had sent me some voice messages about Fifa being a bit tired and I later talked to him about this. He was quite embarrassed by it but I told him not to worry about anything, I gave him my thanks and we hugged it out as bros.
We all went back down and this time the ride towards Paro continued until nightfall. I tried to fight the sleep and it was a hard battle. We even got to see Dochula Pass again without the fog, it was closed though and it was illuminated by lights since it was already dark. We dropped Tashi over at Thimphu and we gave him his share for being such a good friend to us.
At Paro, we found ourselves in Khamsum Inn again where we ate dinner with Fifa before retiring to our room. Much bigger and much cozier than Thimphu's though I saw a tiny bug on my bed. Still, sleep was good that night. Czytaj więcej
BhutanYekho27°29’7” N 90°9’53” E
16 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Our journey to Phobjikha Valley took us up to the mountains again, past several waterfalls until we got to the town of Gangtey where Gangtey Goemba was. Phobjikha was already outside the Golden Triangle of Bhutan so the tourists here were fewer in number. As usual, we went around the monastery's complex clockwise while admiring the quintessential finesse of Bhutanese architecture. We took off our shoes and took a peek inside the main temple before walking around the main town. We visited some shops and a live painting of thangka. Lisa also bought a scarf made out of baby yak wool which was exquisitely soft.
We then began the Gangtey-Phobjika nature trail with Tashi while Fifa drove on to meet us at the other end. The trail took us into the woods and then to the vast open fields of the valley itself. The meandering river was shimmering from afar. We saw cows and stupas on the way to the observation deck where we met up with Fifa. We then proceeded together downwards towards the river. We crossed the bridge and hopped in the car for lunch at a nearby restaurant with a panoramic view of the valley.
After lunch, we stopped by the Black Necked Crane Center where we got to see two of the captive cranes, Karma and Pema. They were both injured and could no longer fly and survive in the wild and were now kept safely in their own sanctuary. Karma was alone for several years until Pema was brought in. It must be so nice to finally have another friend. We were a bit too early for the Black Necked Cranes since they usually arrive around November, migrating from Tibet. Instead, we got to learn about them through a documentary inside the center. What impressed me the most was the fact that these cranes circumambulate Gangtey Goemba three times upon arrival and departure as if paying respect to the holy place.
With most of the activities done for the day, we went to our homestay nearby where we got settled in with some snacks and tea. It was wonderful to experience a Bhutanese family's home. I even had a separate room from the girls. After lollygagging for a while, Fifa offered to take us to some place for a view so we found ourselves back in the car driving to who knows where.
We stopped by a random peak and Fifa said we could hike down towards the village nearby, so we did. Down towards the bridge and across it. We were stumped when we realized the path was a muddy marsh. Lisa was a bit more daring and went on to hop on whatever she could find to try and make it to the other side. The rest of the group opted to just cross the nearby wooden boardwalk. At the top though was a prize well worth it. Two cows were going head to head, literally. It was my first time seeing such a thing in action and I was really happy with the shots I was able to take with the clouds as the backdrop. We hiked back up as it was getting dark and when we arrived back at the homestay it was already pitch black. We were served a delicious homemade dinner with some fruits at the end while we chatted with the children and mother.
I took a shower and went to my room to rest for a bit, thinking about where I was in life right then. Czytaj więcej
BhutanPunakha Dzongkhag27°40’7” N 89°42’32” E
15 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Our journey to Punakha begins today and we were joined by a "guide" named Tashi. An old friend of Sagar. He wasn't really a guide anymore per se and has been inactive for the past 6 years but we needed one and no guide wanted to go out with us for just 3 days except for Tashi so we were thankful!
Our drive took us to the outskirts of Thimphu where we got to see Simtokha Dzong from a distance. The roads were winding and I'm glad I took some medicine because it looked like we were going to be climbing up for a while. Soon enough, we arrived at the highest elevation of the area, Dochula Pass. A collection of 108 chortens built in memory of fallen soldiers. The place was shrouded in mist which added a very dramatic and eerie vibe to the whole place. Even the trip to the bathroom was almost like an ethereal journey.
We stopped by a waterfall with fresh water spouting from a spring source, this too was holy water as signified by a chorten. I also saw a monastery out in the distance and asked Fifa what it was. Turns out it was Talo Monastery and I expressed that I wanted to go there too so it seems like we were going to do so after visiting the famous Chimi Lhakhang.
Chimi Lhakhang was the abode of the Divine Madman, who is a god of fertility and well known for being symbolized by the phallus. The town itself was plastered with it and it was quite surreal. After a short hike to the temple, I found that it actually wasn't as phallus-filled as I imagined it to be. The resident monk gave us some holy water to sip on as well as this black medicine that I just swallowed. I was also given a yellow thread that I was supposed to wear for 3 days, apparently. We also got to walk around the town and got to see plenty of the phallus on the building decors or as souvenirs.
Once we got back into the car, it was time to start climbing up again as Fifa took us towards Talo Monastery. Here, we finally got to see and interact with some monks who were preparing some crafts for a ritual that was about to take place the next day. Maitreya was also enshrined at the main temple here.
We also stopped by the Nalanda Buddhist Institute where we got to see monks hard at work, or rather studying for an exam. They muttered sutras under their breaths and each monk had their own way of studying so it was really fascinating to watch them go around their day.
We went back to Punakha for lunch and we stopped by a hotel where the King himself apparently, often stayed when he visits Punakha. With lunch out of the way, we finally headed out to see the main site of Punakha: Punakha Dzong. It certainly didn't disappoint. At the confluence of two rivers, it stood magnificently against the backdrop of mountains. The biggest and most beautiful dzong I have ever laid my eyes on. We walked across a bridge and stumbled into the temple courtyard where yellow and orange marigolds surrounded a giant tree with a white stupa behind it, the rest of the dzong still stood towering above everything else. We got to explore the place on our own and also the main temple. I was able to veer away from the group and was able to explore some of the dzong's off the beaten paths where I got to see monks and other hidden parts. When I got back to the temple front, it looked like everyone was already moving back out.
We walked to the nearby suspension bridge and we passed through another monk school where they were playing football. It looks like they were able to play a bit when studies were over, but only for a short while according to Fifa. The bridge itself was one of the longest suspension bridges I've seen and walking across it and looking down the river was a very thrilling experience. Once we got to the other end, we walked the way back to Punakha Dzong's parking area.
Fifa took us to our hotel, Punakha Residency, which was a pretty good place all things considered! No outdoor karaoke like our old place over at Thimphu. I went downstairs to get some dinner and was joined by Lisa and Emily before we all went back up to get ready for bed. Czytaj więcej
BhutanThimphu27°28’16” N 89°37’42” E
14 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We had an amazing buffet breakfast in the morning while waiting for Fifa. Lisa and I decided to go find a bank or an ATM to withdraw some cash since Fifa was still stuck in traffic. The bank we went to was in an impressive building that screamed traditional Bhutanese architecture. In fact, the whole town of Thimphu, despite being the capital city, was still extremely peaceful and clean. No tall buildings, rather they stayed quite true to their culture and most places had that distinct Bhutanese charm.
Since we didn't know how long Fifa would be stuck in traffic, we decided to just walk to Simply Bhutan, a suggestion from Thaye, and on the way, we ran into Fifa so it looked like we could now start with the day's itinerary.
Our first stop was Dechen Phodrang Monastic School. Our journey took us high into the mountain where we did a small hike to get to a monastery. Having our first taste of Vajrayana Buddhism in Bhutan. I was expecting to see plenty of child monks playing around here but it actually turned out to be a bit of an empty place. We went up to the main temple to pay respect to Guru Rinpoche. The monk here poured us this green water on our palms that we were supposed to drink. It was holy water and it tasted pretty limey. On the way back to the car, there was a phallus spouting out water. Fifa said that this too was holy water and it was safe to drink so why not?
The next place we went to was the Motithang Takin Preserve where we could see Bhutan's national animal, the Takin. A sacred animal with a connection to the Divine Madman, who was said to perform a miracle by combining a goat's head on to a cow's body. It was also Fifa's first time to see them so I was really happy for him too! The preserve had an elevated boardwalk which took us up close and personal with the gentle beasts. There were only a few left in number and they are also endangered so it was an honor to see them. There was an aviary at the end beside an ice cream shop where we sat for a while, basking in the sun shining from the top of the trees. Emily got me and Lisa some ice cream and we were able to enjoy some jolly conversations before walking back to the car.
Our next stop was Simply Bhutan, this time we made it. We had to wait at the courtyard but what was unique about this experience was that each group would have a dedicated in-house guide to take us across different aspects of Bhutanese history and culture. When it was finally our turn, we first started with drinking rice wine, well they did, not me as I don't drink alcohol. Our guide taught us how to drink it traditionally, by dipping the ring finger and flicking at the air while saying a phrase as an offering to the gods. She also introduced to us the previous and current kings. Right through the door, we got to see some men seeing traditional folk songs that they do during house building. They seriously had a tough job to be doing this the whole day again and again. We also got to see some masks and the phallus garden, which in Bhutan was considered a symbol of good luck and protection. We got to see how they made butter and made some wishes by throwing 5 coins into a floating pot on the water. Unfortunately, I didn't get any in. We also got to try archery, I was able to hit the target which warranted a victory dance which was really what they did apparently. From then, we were herded into a rest area where we were served butter tea and some small snacks while watching some ladies do some more traditional dances. We were also able to join in after a few numbers. I found our guide to be really cute and I guess Lisa was able to sense that, we were able to get a lot of laughs with that.
It started to drizzle a bit when we finished, and we decided to get some lunch. Fifa brought us to his friend's place and the food was more or less alright. I still had a bit of a sore throat so all the chili in the food was not helping at all. After lunch, we stopped by the National Memorial Chorten and took a few steps in only to find out that it was a whopping 500 ngultrum to enter. Well, we already got to see it and I was able to take some photos so we decided to just skip it and head up to the Buddha Dordenma.
Easily recognizable from anywhere around Thimphu, this giant golden Buddha statue can be overlooking the city on top of a mountain. We had to climb an ungodly amount of stairs but it was worth it, not only the views but being in the presence of such a magnificent figure was really humbling. We got to go inside as well and the interior truly matched the exterior, all golden and having some of the most intricate and ornate decor I have ever laid my eyes on. It was without people and a very intimate experience.
Since we were running out of time, we had to make a decision between Simtokha Dzong or Tashichho Dzong. Simtokha Dzong was already closing but I knew Tashiccho Dzong was open after 5:30 PM. Fifa said it wasn't but I insisted a bit before giving up. He made a call and turns out it was so we went there. To buy the tickets, we had to go through the neighborhood of the various government offices which were just these tiny houses. Tashiccho Dzong was also one of the only dzongs that had a security checkpoint where we had to submit our belongings and undergo a body check.
The Dzong itself was one of the most splendid and biggest ones we've seen so far. It functioned as both the government headquarters and a monastery for the monks. Only one temple was available for visitation and it housed a giant golden Buddha. With just a short window before it started to get dark, we were shoo'ed away so Fifa took us to the handicrafts street. I tried to find a bracelet but had no luck here.
We also had dinner scheduled with Thaye and he picked an awesome place for us. A traditional mud house that was converted into a restaurant, and the food was simply sublime. This time it was our treat after his generosity yesterday. Czytaj więcej
BhutanDrugyel Dzong27°27’53” N 89°19’6” E
13 października 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Arriving at Paro Airport was an experience altogether. Surrounded by mountains and getting an immediate look at Bhutanese architecture. The airport was splendid. I also got to see the royal family, the queen whom I had already seen a while back was one of the most beautiful queens I have ever laid my eyes on.
I passed through immigration after a long wait and found Kinzang, or Fifa, as he introduced himself on Whatsapp. Our driver, and soon-to-be friend throughout this trip. Thaye, a high school friend of Sagar, my old workmate, handled the logistics of the trip for us.
After Fifa took my bags, I met up with Lisa and Emily by the Mountain Cafe. After our adventures in Nepal and Mongolia, it was such a strange experience to see them both together. We caught up for a bit before deciding to ride with Fifa to Thimpu. On the way we stopped by Kyichu Lhakhang which was unfortunately closed due to the Queen Mother being there so we decided to walk around the village.
It felt like I was in another world. Seeing these rice paddy fields, the mountains, the people dressed in their national clothes. Bhutan is definitely the most unique country I have ever been to so far. It was peaceful and tranquil, everyone seemed kind and happy. I guess this is what Bhutan meant that they focus on Gross National Happiness.
On the way we stopped by Tachog Lhakhang as well, we only viewed it from afar and I wasn't able to see the bridge but it alas it was done. We went on towards Thimpu and when we got there it was already dark. Fifa brought us to the Alchemy Pub where Thaye was. We stopped by to say hi but ended up having drinks and food at his place. Thaye was super kind, I had thought he would look like Sagar but he was just a genuinely nice guy who helped us a ton. Even the food and drinks we had were on the house! He gave Fifa some emergency money that we can use as well. An ace amongst men, he was.
After saying good bye, we went to Khamsum Inn where we holed up for the night. I opened up to Lisa and Emily about some problems I was holding in since Thailand. Czytaj więcej
JordaniaWādī Nimrīn31°52’30” N 35°32’26” E
18 czerwca 2022, Jordania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
I woke up early morning to catch an Uber going to the airport. I was going to be heading to Israel today. The guy from Saudi Arabia tagged along with me and we bid each other good bye after going through security. I went to line up for my flight that was going to Malta before touching down in Tel Aviv. I was surprised since they started to ask if I had a Schengen visa and that I needed it to transit through Malta but from what I checked, it said that I didn't need it. I also needed a PCR test apparently, either way it looks like I wasn't getting on this flight which quickly threw my schedule off and my money gone. My only solace was the guy behind me with the funniest Maltese accent "Oh no, no Malta?" as if it was him that had lost the opportunity to fly. Well, no time to mope around. I should be used to this by now, on to Plan B which is going to the Allenby Terminal land border crossing which was what I was supposed to do anyway but Rozi convinced me to do otherwise. My cab driver came and as if by some twist of fate, it's the same shady dude that picked me up the first night I arrived in Amman. Now this guy was really shady and tried to swindle me even more despite me telling him of my difficult situation. He told me that the border crossing was closed due to Shabbat and he could get me to a hotel to which I cut him off and told him to just bring me back to the airport. He later phoned his friend to confirmed and that it was still open. As we zoomed on, he lent me his wi-fi which was nice of him but he also later scammed me out of 10 dollars as a guise for border tax to which I still paid for again at the immigration checkpoint. He also asked for a tip which was not really a good Uber etiquette but since he did get me to where I needed at a time of great duress, I obliged.
The border crossing was chaotic with both locals and tourists alike scrambling around. There were no lines whatsoever and it was hard not to get overwhelmed. I was getting hungry but I didn't have any more dinars left and was saving the rest of my dollars for Israel. I somehow found my way to the right window to submit my documents and after that I was left in the dark and was just told to wait. I went to where the other foreigners were and tried to make some small conversations and to gather information on how they were going to get to into town. Shabbat made everything more complicated as there are no public transportation during this time period which happens every Saturday. Soon, we were all called in and given back our passports and ushered on an air-conditioned bus. I was lucky I made it on the last bus going to the other side. All in all, it was actually pretty easy crossing the border and I had wished I did this in the first place but it's best to remain present.
The bus took us across the other side and I found myself in Israel's border checkpoint. The crowds were insane and the lines even more, what was worrying me was the time cut-off as Shabbat made sure that a lot of stores close and this affected the border's opening times as well. I was able to cut through a huge chunk and ended up straight inside since I only had a backpack. The lines were still long but manageable and soon I found myself passing through the security checkpoint. I was dreading the infamous Israel interviews as I read they were very strict but I was easily let through by the old lady in charge after some basic questions. I exchanged some money at an absurdly bad rate but I had to as I needed some shekels if I wanted to make it into town or even survive for the day. I bought a ticket for a sherut going to Jerusalem and was told to wait. It was a really hot day, most of the people I spoke with had their own pre-arranged rides waiting for them when they got to the other side. I kinda wished I could just tag along with them. Our ride was soon upon us and we made ourselves comfy inside the air-conditioned van. We were told that we had to pay extra for the remaining seats because there was nobody else coming unless we wanted to wait for another hour so we had no choice. Israel was quickly soaking up a lot of my cash in just the first few hours. I was so fortunate to have guessed a hotspot's password in the van and was able to catch up and start downloading maps of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, getting as much key information I can while also sending messages to Rozi about my situation as she was hosting me back during my stay in Tel Aviv. Czytaj więcej
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