Dhaka
December 29, 2023 in Bangladesh ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
I got on a long flight from Tokyo to Dhaka where I got to catch up on several movies that I had wanted to watch including The Matrix, the Little Mermaid, and Elementals.
Touching down, I found myself in a very old airport, greeted immediately by the face of Mujib, a prominent figure in Bangladesh's political landscape. I easily made my way through immigration and out into the airport. The hotel I was staying in was supposed to send me a private transfer but I quickly realized it wasn't going to happen.
I stepped out into the open, with the strong scent of incense and perfumes wafting through the air and the call to prayers blaring through the sirens. This is Dhaka. I called an Uber motor so I could get to know the city a bit more through my senses, and after waiting a long time, we finally found each other.
My driver tried to take me through a path but we were stopped by the guard, he tried to make an excuse that I was a foreigner but we had to turn back and take the freeway. With traffic all around, we stopped right in the middle so he could go pee. We eventually made it to my destination which was Nascent Gardenia Residences but it ended up being the wrong one, the correct one being at Gulshan. We had to go there instead next.
It was already dark when we arrived but hey, at least I made it. One thing I noticed about Bangladesh was that it had great hospitality. The bellboy in this hotel was some of the most happy to serve if I've ever seen one. He was excited extremely pleasant and helpful. Showing me every part of the room. I bowed to him out of habit and he bowed back even lower, such a fun guy.
I went out for dinner, with the strong stench of garbage and smoke all around. I reached Kolya Restaurant where I ordered vegetable biryani. Here as well, the hospitality was a bit next level to the point where I felt like being spoiled. The waiter was straight up serving me the food from the dish to my plate, again and again. The food was great though and I ended up finishing everything.
I went back to my room, took a shower, and got ready to wake up early the next day to explore Sonargaon.Read more
Sonargaon
December 30, 2023 in Bangladesh
Waking up early in the morning, getting a shower and a much-needed breakfast, I set off towards Sonargaon. The air was still fresh, the temperature cool and the morning oh-so beautiful. My Uber took me out of Dhaka and straight onto the highway. The journey was mind-boggling for me as this was the first time I was seeing Dhaka in broad daylight, the colors, the sounds, the people, and the buildings were all so interesting.
My Uber dropped me off a few roads away from Sonargaon and I had to walk for 10 minutes or so which was also great as I saw the slow-paced life of the rural areas, not to mention all the stares I got along the way.
When I got to Sonargaon, I noticed the door was locked but people were going in anyway so I just let myself in and took some photos of the building's reflection on the pool. Not long after, someone called my attention and told me that the place opens after 10. I came too early and didn't really have any idea on what to do for the remaining 2 hours or so and he mentioned something about Goaldi Mosque which also happens to be on my list.
I decided to just go there then. The long walk took me through fields, ponds, and huts until there it was: an ancient-looking mosque with palm trees growing at its side. I was minding my own business and taking pictures until this dude showed up behind me, closing the gates. He started talking to me with the basic pleasantries, "Hello, how are you." He showed me that there was a path to the side of the mosque and later he suddenly said he wanted a hug and that he liked me. This was weird, but okay.
He then said "Picture" so I thought he wanted a selfie or something but then he showed me an adult video, begging me "You and me, please." This was all very insane at that point, my fight or flight response was triggering and a tinge of panic was settling on. It was the first time I found myself in such a situation, I told him "No, you're crazy." He once again begged "Please!" I once again stood my ground and firmly said "No!" He then said, "Okay, goodbye." Bye indeed, I skedaddled out of there in the opposite direction only to realize it was a dead-end and I had to walk in the direction where he came from.
Luckily, there was a group of women traveling that way so I just walked with their group all the while keeping an eye on this guy. I saw him playing with a boy as we passed him. It was really stupid of me but at that time I had thought to myself that perhaps it was his nephew or something, my mind wasn't operating at full after such a traumatizing experience but I should have known better thinking back in hindsight. I was just so lost in that moment.
In any case, I made it to Panam City, an abandoned merchant town and one of the main draws of Sonargaon. It still wasn't open so I just sat by the nearby market watching the people go about their day. A group of students came by and there was a puppy that stole the show.
Once Panam opened, I went inside and started snapping away, trying to forget the horrible event that happened earlier. It was just a short road but the buildings were very intricate and historic. After finishing, I had to walk back to the same road and down to Sonargaon's museum area. I realized I had already taken the photo I had wanted and I wasn't really sure if I wanted to pay the entrance fee just to see the museum so I booked an Uber back to Dhaka. While waiting, a mute beggar or a really good actress approached me, I had thought she wanted some food and I confirmed with my body language so I gave her the apple I took from the hotel this morning. She laughed and showed me money, I thought she wanted to pay for it or something so I told her "Oh, no need," this made her laugh more and pat my head. It was a nice exchange though, of course, I knew she wanted cash.
Soon enough, my Uber arrived and off we went back to Dhaka.Read more
Dhaka II
December 30, 2023 in Bangladesh
My Uber drove me to Dhakeshwari National Temple, one of the few prominent Hindu temples in Dhaka. I was immediately greeted by familiar faces including Ganesha and Durga. It was really amazing to see such large and ornate statues. The inside was also very clean and peaceful, a perfect oasis amidst the chaos of Dhaka. The temple colors and shapes were very photogenic.
From the Hindu temple, I walked to Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque where I met a kind Muslim man who seemed so happy to have met a foreigner. The mosque here was old and surrounded by residential buildings yet it still maintained a certain level of tranquility as well.
Traveling from one place to another in Dhaka was quite an experience in itself. My senses were constantly bombarded by the smell of garbage and exotic perfumes, spices and food. The sounds of horns blaring from cars and the cycle rickshaws, the constant chatter and shouts of people all around. The never-ending waves of crowds that I had to push through and the piercing stares of everyone who ever caught a glimpse of me. It was a mental and physical battle all at once and it took a lot from me just to go a few meters.
Eventually, I reached Lalbagh Fort, one of Dhaka's prized jewels. A beautiful place with an expansive landscape. Another brief respite from the city, and a very welcome one at that. Walking around and taking photos of the ruins juxtaposed against the modern structures was very fun as well. Many people here were also curious and friendly enough to say the usual "Hello" and "How are you."
I left to find Chawkbazar Shahi Jame Masjid next. This was a mosque tucked in a bazaar as the name suggests but honestly, I couldn't find it nor could I bring myself to explore to find it everything was just too overwhelming so I skipped it and went to Tara Masjid, the Star Mosque.
I particularly liked the wall of this mosque and its intricate engravings, it seemed like it was also prayer time so I dared not intrude on their space. I made my way to the Armenian Church which was something I didn't expect to find in Bangladesh but here it was. The kind caretaker opened the lock of the church and I made my way up to the rooftops to see Dhaka from a different angle. Not bad at all!
In search of Gol Talab, I ended up in another bazaar but this time I was able to snag a shot of a vendor and his rug store, really dope shot too. I asked for directions until someone approached me and told me to follow him. He led me to a dark alley, into some dark buildings but beyond that was Gol Talab, a man-made perfect circular pond. This was perfect because all I had to do was follow this route to end up in Ahsan Manzil Museum, the Pink Palace.
I definitely didn't expect to see such a magnificent building in Dhaka, the palace was huge and the interior also took a while to fully explore. The main highlight of course was the pink facade the building had.
Satisfied with the day, I went to Sadar Ghat to try and find food and perhaps try to visit Ruplal House. But a restaurant caught my eye: Buriganga Riverview Restaurant. That seemed like a good a place as any to grab some food as I was quite hesitant about getting street food.
I ordered some pineapple fried rice and vanilla ice cream for dessert. After eating, I called my Uber and spent a lot of time outside catching the golden hour and seeing the hundreds of boats crossing the river. Right outside, there seemed to be a flash rally happening as the elections were still underway in Bangladesh. My Uber had to swerve in and out but I was able to make it back to my hotel in time.
Ate some more dinner for the long journey ahead, another Uber to the train station to catch a sleeper train to Khulna. Unfortunately, Dhaka wasn't too kind to me as I was already feeling a bit of a sore throat by this time. Should have worn a mask.Read more
Bagerhat
December 31, 2023 in Bangladesh ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Touching down in Bagerhat, the ancient city of mosques, I finally found myself out in the countryside. The air was fresh for the first time during my whole stay in Bangladesh.
I passed by the 60 Dome Mosque and headed deeper into the jungle, walking by a vast field and past several idyllic settlements. Attracting the curious stares and greetings from passersby, unlike Dhaka though these stares carried a much lighter and friendlier gaze so I welcomed them with a smile.
I went first to Chunakhola Mosque which took me through a series of small settlements tucked away in the jungle, the curious children would come out and try to talk to me in the usual "Hello" and "How are you." I followed a girl with a pink hijab as she walked towards the mosque it stood at the end of the pathway, overlooking the farmlands and ponds beyond. There was a baby goat and its mother, both with an adorable blanket on their backs.
Right near Chunakhola Mosque was Bibi Begani Mosque, this mosque was also superb. These ancient mosques that once flourished in the past have now become a dwelling for the local children, it seems like this is where they come to play.
After finishing the two museums, I headed back via the other side of the field to finally check out the 60 Dome Mosque, where I had to pay a fee to enter. It's definitely the most massive amongst all the other mosques in the area, the interior was also exquisitely designed with white pillars and arches in the ceiling. Unfortunately, the museum was closed at this time so I headed out to grab some lunch in the form of chicken biryani. Right beside the restaurant was the Singair Mosque, another unassuming yet brilliant mosque that was still being used to this day I presume, evidenced by the carpets inside.
Finishing this side of Bagerhat, I began a long walk through the jungle villages to reach the next destination. It was such an introspective walk, and the children were once again the star of the show. A group of them came running out of the gates to greet me, the cutest little girl asking for my name, "Nam ki?" I recall. I said goodbye and saw another huge field with farm animals grazing about, I sat by the bench and just felt the emotions inside me, thinking about my breakup and what life has in store this year.
With my heart a bit heavy, I continued towards Ronbijoypur Mosque, where more kids were playing by the haystack. Such a simple appreciation for life! I wish I could be this happy over a pile of hay.
The end of the road brought me to a busy intersection, there were more people here. The main road leading up to the Khan Jahan Ali Mazar, a much more modern mosque with a maroon facade. The streets were laden with shops and restaurants on both sides. Beyond the mosque was a huge lake where even more people were gathered. I can see the allure of this place, it's quite picturesque.
Finding the Nine Domes Mosque took a while as I went in the wrong direction. Eventually, I found it and I would rate it as the second best-looking mosque right after the 60 Domes one. Here, the village chief started chatting me up which was fun and a totally different experience from the Goaldi Mosque incident.
I was thinking of still going to Reza Khoda Mosque but I realized it was enough for the day, I returned to the intersection where there was thankfully a bus heading back to Khulna.Read more
Sundarbans
January 1, 2024 in Bangladesh ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
New Year's. Felt like just another day while traveling, I didn't feel much of a celebratory vibe in Khulna, nor did I hear any fireworks that night which was a good thing cuz I wanted some sleep anyway.
Whilst I ate my breakfast, I finally got to meet the man behind the WhatsApp chat: Russel. The owner of Beautiful Bangladesh Tours and whom I was going with to visit the Sundarbans Mangrove Forest.
It was an interesting affair, to say the least. He picked me up at my hotel and we sped off on his motorbike toward Sonadanga bus terminal again where we got on a bus heading to Mongla. From there, we took a boat to the other side and then a tuk-tuk to a beautiful eco-cottage at Bonobibi Forest Resort. This was such a surprise for me as I had no idea something like this was in store in our itinerary. I had initially thought it was just going to be visiting the Mangrove Forest, but such an amazing treat was highly welcome especially since I was still recovering from a cough I got from Dhaka.
While relaxing at the main cottage, I got a chance to see a traditional game of Carrom and tried out the swings overlooking the main river. I was at peace here. I had a long rest in my cabin, which was pretty much the most exquisite place I had the chance to stay in Bangladesh. Spacious, ambient, and natural.
The food was also fantastic, a bit spicy as is with Bangladeshi cuisine but delicious nonetheless. After much more rest, we finally got to set out.
The place was a vibe on its own as if we were entering another world. The boatman rowed towards the river channel and we were brought deeper into the mangrove forest. There were plenty of birds, the collared kingfisher is one that I remember, and there was also an orange one that was very rare. Russel was enthusiastic about this one.
We also got the chance to get off the boat and explore the inland a bit. The almost spiky roots protruding from the ground made it a bit hard to navigate but it truly felt like we were in the midst of a deep jungle.
After the expedition, the sun started to set and we basked in its golden light all the way back to the resort where I got the chance to try out a four-player Carrom game while waiting for dinner.Read more
Sundarbans II
January 2, 2024 in Bangladesh ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
I awoke in a fit of coughing but otherwise, the rest of the day was much more calm. The morning was shrouded in a mystical fog that made for the most hauntingly beautiful photos. Even more so when we, Russel's brother and I, departed towards the Sundarbans once more, into the mist where we encountered tons of animals. Dolphins, otters, mudskippers, spotted deer, and tons of birds.
After getting back to the resort, we headed to the village to get a slice of the local life. Most particularly towards the now-under-construction site for Bonobibi, the forest goddess of the Sundarbans. The village chief explained to Russel in Bengali the lore and he shared it with me afterwards in English. I found it most fascinating just because she is worshipped by both Muslims and Hindus, but only here in this region.
Russel then took me to one of the huts where they were currently making the new clay idols of Bonobibi. Funnily enough, it was only when I checked the keys of my cabin did I realized that the resort was named after Bonobibi herself.
While lazing about by the swings, it seems like Russel wanted to go for another round in the Sundarbans and I wasn't one to turn down such an offer. Off we went again, this time his two sons accompanying us. Another beautiful time capturing photos of plenty of birds.
After lunch, we got on a bigger boat heading to Koromjol. The ride took us to the wider straights of the Sundarbans where I saw even more settlements by the banks. Local life was booming and it was incredible to see. We even saw a gigantic crocodile from afar before it scurried off as our boat approached.
Russel's family and I disembarked at Koromjol to be greeted by tons of monkeys. We saw some deer in the breeding grounds and Russel summoned a giant crocodile who seemed to know its name, Alexander. We went deeper and followed the walking trails of Koromjol, spotting tons of monkeys. From there, we returned to Molna but not before seeing such a dazzling and radiant sunset.
This time we had a private car back to Khulna which was great after such an awesome expedition.Read more
Dhaka II
January 3, 2024 in Bangladesh ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Today was a long trip back to Dhaka by bus. I checked out of Jatra and once again headed to Sonadanga. The bus ride took around 4 to 5 hours and before I knew it, I was back in one of the most polluted cities on earth, in fact, it was rated number 1 based on the news I saw a few days ago.
This time, I chose to wear a mask because I knew it would be suicide to start breathing in this air while still sick. My first stop was the pharmacy to get some more Strepsils. Got on an Uber CNG or an auto-rickshaw to try out this form of transportation which made me feel a bit safer compared to just using a motorbike this time around.
I had a lot of time to spare when I arrived at the airport and when it was time to check in, I found my patience tested. The Bangladeshi people seemed to always be keen on cutting in line just like when I was in Egypt. Even in front of the check-in counter, beyond the yellow line, people were still cutting in front of me. Oh lord, it was really annoying. Take deep breaths, I told myself. It doesn't matter, I was hungry, I just wanted to check-in so I could already eat at the restaurant inside.
I had to fill up some form to enter immigration but I didn't have a pen, luckily there was a Chinese lady and with what broken Chinese I can muster, I was able to borrow her pen and in exchange got her another form from the guard.
After that unpleasant incident, I finally got to eat my last chicken biryani before going to my gate, only to find out that there was no waiting area nor seats for Gate 4. The people literally had to sit on the floor before they finally let us in. Only for the flight to be delayed for like another 2 hours or so. I encountered the Chinese lady again, surprised that she was heading to Kathmandu as well.
When we got on the airplane, it quickly got infested by hundreds of mosquitos. It was absolutely terrifying. The entertainment system in front of me was also broken. It was certainly a ride to remember, I never thought I would have an officially worst airplane ride but this was it right here. The Chinese lady was also seated next to me, on the other aisle. I got some forms to fill up from the stewardess and took one for her too as she was asleep. I later borrowed her pen again, and in exchange she told me to write her form as well. A good bargain, she shared with me some food and introduced herself as Coco.
Mysteriously, after the cabin crew sprayed something, all the mosquitos seemed to have disappeared. After a few hours, we were soon touching down Nepal.Read more
