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transAtlantic and Italy
  • Laura Folk
  • Laura Folk

transAtlantic and Italy

A 58-day adventure by Laura Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 13, 2026
    Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Getting Ready

    April 13 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Last night was a late one- returned home from our Bermuda trip with the kids, so laundry, repacking and getting ready to leave the house for a couple of months. Then up early for the uneventful flight to Miami. I do believe the coach seat knee space is shrinking. I was very grateful for my 5'4" self, as I saw Wayne and our similarly tall row-mate trying to figure out where to put their knees.
    We caught a taxi to the Citizen M Hotel near the Port. This is one interesting hotel - check yourself in, the room is controlled by iPad, and it's just sort of quirky and fun. We had empanadas for lunch and a pizza later on... And early to bed.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Underway Day

    April 14 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    First of all, may I say, Citizen M (by Marriott) for a big win. It's smart, sleek, efficient, (and we stayed free with a Marriott bonus night). I noticed that all the rooms are ADA accessible. It doesn't cost more to do it from the start, and considering the location near the port, the demographic tends slightly toward the older population. Negative - no free coffee (although the "pay for" espresso drinks are good, and breakfast is "pay for" @$23. Knowing we could get lunch upon boarding, we went to the Starbucks behind the hotel so W could get a croissant. I got a protein latte.

    Our Lyft ride was easy - and I didn't leave anything in the car. (Left a sweater yesterday - with my Pixel Pro earbuds in the pocket!) Check-in was quick, and our staterooms was ready. I Mane is our Steward.

    We had dinner at Hudson's with Judy, Glenn, and their friends Kathy and Jeff Orcutt who served with them in Bolivia.

    Bags arrived, and I unpacked. So glad to have no baggage until the end of April.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    First Sea Day-Meet & Greet

    April 15 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We lost an hour, so I slugged a bit. I wanted to get a bite to eat, so went to Observation Lounge where they had light breakfast- cereal, pastries, and egg bites, as well as the requisite bevs.

    Went to Cruise Next to sign up for the goodies. Rodan, from a couple of previous cruises, is the Manager!

    The M&G went well, and we had a good turnout. About half have previously been in this ship, and they had some good recommendations.

    We went to Indulge Food Hall for lunch - chili for me, and noodle soup for him. I saw a lot of dishes that could make me happy - W not so much.

    Dinner was at Los Lobos. Love it! Guacamole and queso, followed by Mole chicken enchiladas, and sorbet for me, and carne asada with plantains, beans and refritos, and churros for W. We headed up to the buffet for cocoa and decaf.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    Dinner in Palomar
    Sunset from the Observation Lounge

    A couple of Sea Days

    April 16, Sargasso Sea ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It's a lazy day, here in Viva... We lost an hour last night, and will do the same tonight.

    Yesterday I met up with the Sit&Stitch group. We had the Latitudes Reception which was weird- held in the theatre- hard to get a drink, since we were sitting in theatre seats-- very different from our usual experiences. We had dinner at Palomar- seafood restaurant. Really good. We started with a seafood salad. I had sea bass, and Wayne had scallops.

    Today was mostly hanging out, breakfast in Observation Lounge - egg bites for me, croissants for him. I skipped Sit & Stitch- didn't want to rush my morning having lost an hour. Spent some time with Judy & Glenn in the OL, did a little knitting here and there, and enjoyed naps and time on our balcony. Seas are calm, and it's warm out. I had a mid-afternoon chocolate affogatto. We went to Indulge Food Hall for dinner, and had an assortment of little plates. Wayne had a crepe in the buffet.

    I thought I'd bought him the soda package- couldn't find it in our docs,- but he finally looked at his card today, and discovered he's set for Diet Cokes. Win!

    We headed up to the Observation Lounge for sunset- beautiful.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Day 5- Another Lovely Day at Sea

    April 18, Sargasso Sea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Started out with breakfast in the Observation Lounge - egg bites and coffee, and the whole ocean outside the windows.

    The Military Reception was similar to the Latitudes one- short, and not easy to get a bev. No pictures. To be fair, there were a lot of people, and they had to keep it manageable.

    Lunch was at Hudson's - Monte Cristos, followed by afternoon naps .

    We had Dinner with the Officers in Hudson's - we were with the Staff Officer (similar to the XO), Santiago Filevich, and Kate who is the Theatre Manager. I sat next to Santiago who was a wealth of info on NCL. He's been on more than half the ships. He gave us interesting insights into the goings-on during Covid shutdown. The Belvidere Lounge, where we met up, was nice- and not crazy noisy.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    And Some More Sea Days...

    April 20, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today (Sunday) began with a worship service with Glenn and Jeff. I had breakfast with Glenn and Judy, then touched base with Wayne in the Observation Lounge. I returned to meet Glenn & Judy for some Rummikub and a quick card game of 4 corners. During that time the Captain came on the speaker for the daily update. He informed us that due to bad upcoming weather we will not be able to visit Ponta Delgada. So another sea day. And a few more after that. Our first port will be Cadiz on Friday.

    I returned to the Observation Lounge, where Wayne and I chatted with a couple from Tennessee and had a light lunch. We had dinner at Onda, with a Caprese starter, and a HUGE veal scallopine.

    Monday, April 20 was more of the same. I noticed that I was tall enough to use the water slides. Just because I can, doesn't mean I should. We had dinner at the Commodore Room, which is the second MDR. It was nice, but very loud.

    Speaking of loud, our stateroom is over the theater. When there aren't parties there, the bands are practicing - thumping during many hours of the day, and late into the night

    Tuesday 's highlight was dinner at La Bistro. Very nice- escargot, beef tenderloin, and Marquis de chocolat. I've been able to do some knitting, and making a bit of progress on the sweater..    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Sevilla Friday, April 24 2026

    April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I woke up really early and went to the Observation Lounge to see our approach to Cadiz.
    We took a tour to Seville- about an hour and a half drive. Seville sponsored the Iberia -America exposition. A large, beautiful complex, the Spanish building is currently a government bldg including immigration etc.

    We went to the Alcazar, occupied as a summer home by the Kings of Spain, and by Franco during the dictatorship. I learned that Franco was pro-monarchy, and wanted King Alfonso XIII to return to the throne, but according to our guide, the king asked that Franco remain in power and have Juan Carlos succeed him.

    The Festival of April was in full swing, with people dressed up in Flamenco dancing and riding gear, and people on horseback as well as families in carriages going to the fair, followed by a bullfight.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    April 23- Last Sea Day

    April 24, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    It was very thumpy last night, (Glow Party in the Viva Theater) . We would not have booked this room, but we had an Ocean View, and my modest upgrade bid was accepted, so no choice. But in any case, we should not be experiencing 80 db in bed, and significant vibration when standing on the floor. We called Guest Services, and the sound did reduce somewhat.

    We went up to the Observation Lounge for breakfast. I called Nick, the Executive Chef who said he wanted to learn to knit. I had put the sweater on a cable so my needles would be free, and we spent time with knitting and purling. I must say that he shows great promise. The bar server came around and asked if we wanted anything. Nick said "Bloody Mary". I thought it a bit weird, but thought perhaps they had adjusted working rules. The server brought the drink, and Nick laughed and said "I was kidding! I'm working!". I handed the bev to Wayne and said, "Compliments of the Chef "

    He took his Bloody with him to a light lunch in the buffet, and after eating, I joined Judy, Glenn, Kathy, & Jeff in Food Republic.

    I hung out in the room and took a short nap, and thought about knitting, but fell asleep instead.

    We had dinner in Indulge. I like the small plates, and the variety. The brisket was really good. A real treat was the grilled pineapple - yum!

    Wayne wanted to check out some cruises at Cruise Next, but saw the JGK&J crew near Starbucks so we sat to chat for a bit. We saw KitKat, the Guest Services Manager, and knew that we had seen her previously. She came over and we figured out that it was from the Spirit Pacific cruise. I put in a pitch for those of us on Deck 9 Forward, to reduce the bass volume during the parties in the Viva Theater. She took room numbers and said she'd follow up.

    We had an early -and blessedly quieter night.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Motril- El Torcal & Antequera

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Met Judy & Glenn in the theatre for our excursion. I verified that the theatre speaker is directly under our stateroom. Our guide Maria, driver Manuel/Diego/Francisco.

    Very green- lots of rain this year.. wildflowers, poppies along the road . Olive trees- olive production largest farm industry.
    Our first stop was ElTorcal- a National Park formed from tetonic compression of limestone which formed sedimentary peaks and formations as the stone was pressed upward. Glenn designated one formation as "pancakes" with the attendent puns. The fog has been with us, and rolled in thicker as we left the park.

    On our way to Antequera we saw the sun come out.

    There was a walk through part of the city, and Maria explained the Roman realization that even in those days, Antquera was appreciated as being VERY old. We saw the church of St Mary of Jesus - beautiful inside. I spotted a bronze shell on the pavement, indicating that this was a stop on the Camino de Santiago. This brought back memories of the trip I took with Pat to Santiago de Compastella, where we met many pilgrims. We had lunch with Judy & Glenn (pizza- REALLY good) at a restaurant in the center of town.

    And a nice trip back to the ship.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Ibiza

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had another worship service led by Glenn and Jeff. I read a section from Ephesians.

    After arriving in Ibiza, we took the shuttle to town, and walked around, stopping at a restaurant for sangria and tapas. We had calamari and baby squid. Then a walkabout as far as the ramp to the fort, and back to the shuttle.

    While Ibiza was very nice, it was all touristy and ready for party time- not our demographic. We've been there- and one day was plenty.

    Back to the ship where I got an affogatto and settled in for a nap.

    As we were preparing for dinner in Commodore, there was a knock on the door. Room Service was there with a lovely sweets tray from Nick. Such a nice gesture.

    After dinner we went to the Observation for sail away, and saw the town lights as we departed.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Tarragona, Spain

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Tarragona is another very old city that was inhabited by the Romans- with many buildings using older materials - in some places many iterations of reuse. City walls, excavations, and evidence of millenia of construction.

    We returned to find a lovely gift- a bottle of wine from KitKat, the Guest Services Director. We had a "Last Supper" with Judy and Glenn, as they plan to join the others tomorrow, and we plan to return to Las Lobos.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Aix en Provence and Cassis

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had a fantastic day visiting Aix en Provence and Cassis. Lots of walking and taking in the local culture.

    Our first stop in Aix en Provence gave the opportunity to have a bev in a little cafe after walking through several markets and stores. Such beautiful vegetables. Artichokes and asparagus, and tomatoes of all colors. I picked up some goods at a stand with lavender products, and some nougats at a shop where the owners were so friendly, and gave us samples from huge slabs of nougat. After our drinks, we walked through the garment market - so tempting, but I already brought too many clothes, despite many attempts to cull down the packing. We met at the Hotel Saint Christophe, whose managers were kind to let us visit the facilities.

    Driving through the countryside, we stopped for some pictures, and we're treated to France's version of the Blue Angels practicing, including red, white, and blue smoke.

    We then went to Cassis where we had lunch. Wayne had moules & frites, while I had mozzarella and tomato buckwheat crepe. I also had a glass of their local wine which was quite tasty.

    On the way back to the ship, we drove around Marseille, stopping at Notre Dame de les Gardes. Outside is a Pieta that was even more moving to me than Michaelangelo's.

    Back at the ship we had dinner at Los Lobos. Nick appeared, having tracked us down. He scolded me for not calling him to say goodbye - he showed me a picture of his knitting- quite impressive. I felt like a proud mama. I described how he could make a cowl out of the piece, and told him I'd send some instructional downloads.

    And then... Packing.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    Not Bad .. Not Bad at All!

    April 30- Travel Day

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We took a taxi to the airport, and after security et al, located one of several lounges. We spent a restful couple of hours there, and proceeded to the gate, arriving at boarding time. On the way, I saw a branch of the candy store that Pat and I visited in Madrid last year... Not bad- not bad at all. Forty minutes after arriving at the gate, we boarded the plane for an uneventful flight to Milan.

    I did a lot of planning for this trip, but forgot about getting from the airport to the city. The train was cheap, but takes much longer - and we would still need to get to the hotel. We were tired and didn't want to deal with it. Taxis and Ubers are both pricey, but we decided on Uber, and had a great driver.

    After checking in to Hotel Palladino, we decided to go to Pizzaria Marina, across the street. Prosciutto and mozzarella di bufala, and quattro stagione pizza, with a jug of their red house wine. Fantastic.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Walking Around Milan

    May 1 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We had a lazy morning as I fought with my hotspot, trying to get the SIM card to work. The first problem was that I was trying to use the card from last year's trip to Spain. When I found the right card, it wouldn't use Wifi. Eventually through the day and many queries on Google, I tweaked the settings on the GLocalMe and got the little sucker to work.

    We headed to a little cafe/tobacconist on the corner from the hotel for a little breakfast. Wayne had some fresh-squeezed oj and a pistachio pastry, while I enjoyed a cappuccino and cornetto. We then set out to see the Duomo and Castello Sforzesco. It was a worthy walk. Along the way I saw. Flying Tiger- so of course had to stop in, and got a cute little "Memory Journal" that guides a short writing of memories from any time in life.

    We stopped in at a Vegetarian Indian restaurant for juice, Coke Zero, and bathroom break - not in that order. Then onward to the Duomo. This is one impressive Duomo. I tried to get tickets last night- and they appeared to be available - but as soon as I hit the pay button, the basket emptied. So we saw it from the outside.

    On to the Castello Sforzesco. On the way I noticed lots of advertisements for "The Devil Wears Prada 2" which opened last week during Fashion Week in Milan.

    The Castello is also impressive- huge, brick building with a tower in the middle of the forward part of the castle, and turrets on either side. From the courtyard we saw the walkway around the top of the building. After having had our fill of sun and walking, we sought out a taxi stand (another worthy walk) for our well- earned cab ride back to the hotel. After we were dropped off, Wayne suggested that we have some gelato. Who am I to argue?

    We decided to return to the pizzaria. After we ordered, a large group arrived. When we were finished eating, I asked if they were having a party. It was the 53rd anniversary of the senior couple in the group. I wished them "auguri," and they appeared to not only understand me, but appreciate our well wishes.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 2, 2026- Milan to Florence

    May 2 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We returned to our little breakfast place where the Chinese server introduced me to her dog- furry little critter with a curly tail.

    Packed up, checked out, and the lady at the he desk ordered a taxi for us to the Centrale station. We had Fast Track which allowed us to skip the gates- good thing because our car was at the very front of the train. We were still getting settled as the train pulled out. This is Italotreno- comfy high-speed train that gets us from Milan to Florence in about 2 hours.

    We tried to sign in to the wifi, but it sent an SMS text for verification code - didn't receive it 🤷‍♀️ so on with the hotspot.

    At Santa Maria Novella we caught a taxi to our digs for the month. We were met by Cinzia, Francesca's assistant, who showed us around the apartment. It's compact, but roomy enough and perfect the two of us. We entered a little gate, and went up just a few stairs. We have a living room which goes to the bedroom on one side, and up a couple of steps to the kitchen on the other side. The bathroom is at the end of the bedroom, and there's a little closet room for our stuff.

    Francesca left a bottle of wine and a package of cookies for us.

    We decided to head out for a walk, to get our bearings and pick up some grocery essentials. We first walked around the San Niccolo neighborhood - omg. I hope this is not what our whole time will be like... thousands of tourists. It was so jammed with people that at times we couldn't move. Checked Google and saw there was a small grocery just past Santa Croce. We crossed the Ponte alla Grazia and headed to Santa Croce, where we saw a market. It was all French products - we picked up some cookies, and W took a seat as I powered on. I saw a pastry booth, and picked up some croissants for tomorrow's breakfast. The grocery had just what I had in mind- some oj, condensed milk for coffee, prosciutto and cheese, butter, and a small baguette. And of course, some Coke Zeros for Himself.

    By this time we were getting hungry, and went to the restaurant behind the apartment. (We can see the kitchen from our bathroom). Apparently one needed a reservation, but they gave us a table with the warning that they needed it in an hour. Our table was downstairs and was fascinating - arched brick and stucco ceiling,... I'd love to know the stories of the buildings in this area. When the waiter got to us (he was apparently not in a rush) we ordered some ham (not prosciutto -but can't remember what) served with bread and a soft cheese, followed by penne with tomato and pappardelle with wild boar sauce for me. It was great. We took our leftovers and cleared the place with moments to spare.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    First Full Day in Florence

    May 3 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The morning started out with a mess as the little espresso maker exploded all over the kitchen. I had visions of fixing my coffee and having a nice leisurely breakfast in our little apartment, which eventually happened. But first... Turns out there was a piece missing from the Moka Express. After cleaning some of the walls and floor, I made some Nescafe, poured oj for W, and enjoyed some of the pastries we got at yesterday's market. Interesting fact: it takes no fewer than 10 paper towels to mop up exploded coffee and grounds.

    We discussed what to do today. After yesterday's crowds, I'm not anxious to reenter the fray. I'm hoping it was just being Saturday of a holiday weekend. Also- there are sore muscles from schlepping luggage and walking up and down hills, so the Tylenol has to kick in.

    Wayne wants to visit Fort Belvedere. We headed up the road behind the old City wall- it was VERY steep. We sort of tuckered out and turned around, heading toward Ponte Vecchio. The walk along the Arno River is beautiful - we saw the Library, Galileo Museum, Uffizi, the Tower of Palazzo Vecchio, the top of Santa Croce, The dome of the Duomo, and of course, Ponte Vecchio.

    We made another attempt at approaching Ft Belvedere from another angle- just as steep. Later in the evening I discovered that we can catch a bus from Piazzalle Michaelangelo, so we'll give that a try.

    We stopped for gelato at Strega Nocciolo (I just realized it's probably a play on Strega Nona.) Cafe for me, Nocciolo for him. A few steps further was the supermercato that Cinzia told us about. We picked up some more goods, facing the fact that we can't eat all our meals out. On a positive note, we can't overbuy because the fridge is tiny, and there's no microwave, so leftovers have to be warmed the old fashioned way.

    Back to our place for some planning. We'll plan for Ho-Ho tomorrow, although rain is predicted. Alternatively, we might just hang out.

    One of the TV treats was what looked like a Renaissance band competition with drums and flags and fancy outfits.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 4-Piazalle Michaelangelo

    May 4 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I didn't blow up the coffee this morning, thanks to the nifty machine that Meg & Greg gave me. We had our breakfast and then planned the day. Our original plan was to do HoHo Bus today. Thunderstorms were predicted, so we held back. But when it became apparent that we were having a beautiful day instead, we decided to "head to the hills" and visit Piazzalle Michaelangelo. It's apparently THE place to be to watch the light change in the evening. We left before then, but I'm sure we'll do sunset up there sometime.

    It's a climb! Up and up, roads, stairs, steep flat stairs... And up some more. We got to the area below the Piazalle, and stopped for Coke Zero and water, and some beautiful views. Then up again. There were some food kiosks, and a bunch of market tents with souvenirs, towels, clothes, and the like. And right in the middle, ol' David himself.

    We admired the views, W took a seat, and I headed up to the Monastery of San Miniato. The views are even more beautiful from there. The Zeferelli family is in the cemetery. I visited the Farmacia, where they sell beeswax candles, pastries, and other items made by the monks. I hope to go back and spend time looking at the healing oils they mix.

    The church is simple and beautiful, with the main altar behind the one in the center. I lit a couple of candles.

    The way down is so much easier. I caught up with Wayne and we headed down and back to the apartment. I'm getting much better at unlocking the gate. We had our leftovers from the other night.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Cinque di Maggio - Fa Piove

    May 5 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Rain, rain, rain.
    We were scheduled to go to Cinque-Terre today, but didn't go- and not because of the rain. We got up at 5:45, and headed out. I had ordered a taxi for 6:30 am to take us to the Santa Maria Novella station, and- NO TAXI. I tried ordering another but couldn't connect. Then used the Uber app to order a taxi, and no takers. I ended up calling the tour guide, and explained. She said they could wait another 10 minutes, but I further explained that we were in Oltrarno and couldn't make it in time. I just didn't want them to have to wait for us.

    I emailed GetYourGuide, and said I knew we couldn't cancel, but asking if we could get a discount if we re-booked. They kindly indicated they'll work with us

    We took naps, and started to do some more planning, then headed out to get some lunch. W had some minestrone and we shared a meat and cheese plate, and got glasses of a nice Montepulciano.

    Back to our place in a downpour. Some more researching, and dinner- cappelini that we bought at the store the other day, and some of the wine from Francesca for me, hot chocolate and cookies from the French market for Wayne.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    Wine Window
    Piazza Santa CroceSanta CroceSan Miniato MonasteryOur apartment was behind this buildingSan Niccolo Tower

    May 6- Walking and Groceries

    May 6 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We headed to the grocery store near Santa Croce, and encountered far fewer crowds than on Saturday. On our way we came upon an apparent Ambulance vs auto encounter. Lots of cops, another ambulance and many ticked-off motorists and their horns.

    We saw a wine window, got to the store and picked up some things to keep body and soul together, without over-stressing our stomachs or credit cards at the restaurants- some more meats and cheese, biscuits, colas, etc. We stopped in Piazza Santa Croce for a rest and met a couple from South Carolina on a land tour. We found an ATM for Wayne, and headed home.

    Walking back, we got great views of Piazzalle Michaelangelo, San Miniato, and the San Niccolo neighborhood which is our home for May. After a rest, we decided to explore further down the neighborhood. We saw the Porta San Niccolo, with terraced walkways up to Piazzale Michaelangelo and the rose gardens. We walked down to the bridge then headed back. Since it is a food shopping kind of day, we stopped into a little shop and got some sun-dried tomatoes, chicken cutlets, croquettes, and an artichoke. There was also a nice selection of wine and sauces for pasta.

    Last stop was for gelato at Sbrino. A definite winner. Quiet evening.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    The German LadiesFirst visit to Joshua Tree Pub

    Thurs May 7-HoHo and Fiesole

    May 7 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had- wait for it- a beautiful, sunny day after days of rain and thunderstorms. So we walked to the HoHo stop near the PonteDella Grazie. I got 48 hour tickets , so we don't have to feel rushed. We met a group of German women waiting for the same bus. Interesting conversation ensued, and we boarded the bus. Our route took us around the East side of the city, then up into the mountains to Fiesole.

    Fiesole is an ancient city, with Etruscan and Roman roots, and is home to three US University overseas centers- most notably St Mary's of Minnesota, Georgetown, and, oh yeah - Harvard. Two (that I attended ) out of three ain't bad. Now if Providence joined in... We walked a short bit, and had some lunch. Tagliatelle con funghi for him, and Pappardelle alle cinghiale for me. After filling the bellies, we walked to the ancient archaeology center, where we saw Roman ruins, including the amphitheatre, Lombardi tombs, Roman temple, and Roman baths. Well worth the €7 entry fee.
    Then back to the bus stop, with a stop off in the Duomo di San Romolo for some candle-lighting. The bus ride down was as breathtaking as the trip up.

    The bus route continued through the West side of Florence, and over to Oltrarno. We saw Piazzalle Michaelangelo again, and went down the mountain to get off at our stop.

    With thoughts of gelato in our heads, we headed toward Sbrino where we enjoyed our treats yesterday. On the way, we saw our German lady friends from the morning. We chatted a bit, grabbed a picture, and on to Sbrino. There was the longest queue of school kids... No way. So we headed across the street to the Joshua Pub- not exactly Florentine, but an amusing, fun pub to enjoy an Aperol spritz and Guinness. Good decision. When we passed the gelateria, the line was still crazy long

    Back to the house for a pre-dinner nap, followed by a dinner of croquettes and cappelini with a dried tomato topping that I conjured.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 8- More HoHo, SMN, and shop

    May 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    An unexpected benny- we get an extra day on our HoHo tickets. Today we took the Blue line, and "Hopped Off" at Santa Maria Novella (SMN). We want to get tickets to Lucca, but I can't get the app to work. Is it because my phone is US? I don't know... but we got to the station, and I was able to use the machine to get tickets. There's a shopping area that has my fave Flying Tiger. I picked up a couple of little things, and after a wc stop (€1, please) we headed back to the bus. I decided to stock up on groceries .

    The stop near Santa Croce is skipped because of construction, so I got off at our stop. Some ladies from a Celebrity Cruise wanted to get lunch, so I aimed them up the street. I headed on to my little store, glad that we chose time to enjoy rather than the tour hordes everywhere. I picked up some Coke Zeros, milk, and juice for Himself, yogurt for me, olive oil and bread.

    I will say right now, that the Florentine bread makes me long for bread anywhere else. Many centuries ago there was a tax levied on salt by whoever ruled the area back then, so they stopped putting salt in their bread. They still haven't gotten over it.

    Walking back from the store at Santa Croce was a bit tough on the arms. But crossing the bridge, I met Cindy & Steve, who are staying in an apartment near the San Niccolo tower. We chatted about San Miniato, Piazzalle Michaelangelo, and the like. They offered to help carry the groceries, since they were going my way. Nice people. They're leaving in a few days, but hope to come back for 2 months.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Bells at noon and Return to Fiesole

    May 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We got a "bonus day" with our Hop-on-Hop-off, so decided to return to Fiesole. We sat on a bench awaiting the bus, along the Arno River, across from Santa Croce. There were a bunch of people painting the statue in the square - some were still there when we returned in the afternoon. At noon we were treated to bells from the Duomo, Santa Croce, Monastery, and countless other churches.

    The views of Florence from the mountain are so spectacular - all those Renaissance paintings with the cypress trees, villas, towers, and churches - they're right there!

    We had a lunch of antipasti - got the only table that wasn't reserved - on the Piazza where Wayne had hoped we could eat.

    One possibility we discussed was getting off the bus at Piazzalle Michaelangelo and walking up to San Miniato for the evening service, but for some reason, we were both tired, so headed back home for an early evening.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 11 -Pisa, San Gimignano and Siena

    May 11 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    What an 18k step day! We got up early, summoned a taxi that arrived almost immediately, (go appTaxi!) and got to the meeting point with lots of time to spare. An enterprising food truck has a lucrative business selling coffees, pastries, and sandwiches at the site across from the bus station.

    We had a huge group -80 people, but the tour guide, Aaron, his assistant Renate and driver Riccardo were very organized and checked, checked, and double-checked at every opportunity. (Definitely no shades of Petra for this crew.) We got seats on the upper level which provided a day full of beautiful Tuscan views.

    First stop was Pisa- the tower is still leaning as it was 40 years ago. We looked at the sites- the Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistry, all from the outside, and got a bev at a cafe.

    Next stop was San Gimigniano where we had a delicious lunch at Fuori Porta with Renate. Antipasto - Wayne and I laughed because we each had our own plate- we're always sharing one. This was served with a nice Chianti - but no fava beans. Salad was offered, and on to the pasta- penne with meat sauce. We could only finish half- but it was SO good- served with another red Tuscan wine. Dessert was a very rich "crema" -(flan) served with a local white. And I didn't take any pictures!

    We walked around the city, beautiful as I remembered it. Then back to the bus

    Last stop, Siena. I opted to go to the Cathedral, where I lit candles, and joined Mark Wahlberg for a rosary for important intentions for important loved ones. The Cathedral is quite beautiful - aren't they all- and each has its own special spiritual feel.

    When I left the Cathedral it was pouring, and as I headed down the street I saw the most vibrant rainbow. Wayne and I planned to meet at the central square, but kept missing each other. I got a bit worried, but we both made it to the tour's meeting place on time. I had a nice talk with Renate on the walk to the bus, and when I told her about the special intentions, she suggested I go to Santissima Annunciata which has a chapel devoted to San Pellegrino (the saint- not the water), and the nuns will add my people to their list. I'll aim to get there later this week.

    We returned to the starting point which we'd left almost 12 hours before, and walked up the Santa Maria Novella station to catch a taxi. We found the good (and more expensive) bathrooms, and saw the local Five Guys. Then a taxi back home    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 13- Lucca

    May 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our first foray using the city bus. And of course it rained. We used the atbus app to figure out how to get to Santa Maria Novella station to catch the train to Lucca. The first C4 bus was so packed, there was no chance of getting on. While waiting, I played around in the app and bought a ticket. Not necessary, because you can just "tap on" with a credit card or Google pay, but it's another experience. We got the next C4, almost half an hour later, but we had planned plenty of time. Our tiny bus dropped us off just across from SMN. The first cafe was packed, so I suggested going to the "Self Serve" which also has a huge bookstore. Graffa for him (the cashier didn't know the word graffa🤷‍♀️ -but donut worked) and an espresso and mini muffin for me.

    Then wait. I spoke with a woman from Bolivia whose husband is Spanish, and shared some time.

    The train ticket is second class on the Trenitalia local to Pisa. Comfortable, new, no complaints here. But I do have renewed appreciation for the high speed trains.

    We got off the train and saw a promising path that took us through a rabbit warren that tracked through the wall and into the lovely city of Lucca . We were really hungry, so got pizza Mediterraneo (mozzarella , olives, tomatoes, onions) at a nice little place. There were some enterprising avians, including a tiny bird that landed on our table and helped itself to a small piece of mozzarella from Wayne's plate.

    Then walking, pictures, towers, churches, statues....

    Interesting fact - they were filming for Season 4 of "The Diplomat", with the plot including G7. The city was decked out with G7 signs.

    I stopped in to several churches, but lit candles at San Michele in Foro- which as best I could fathom was Saint Michael in the Hole. I found this disturbing. After a bit of research, I discovered that it was named for the Forum, which had apparently been in that area previously. Beats being in a hole. In our travels, we found a kitchen store, and I was able to get a replacement for the missing part of the 3 cup espresso pot. Hopefully no more explosions. Then to a yarn store - L'Arcolaio Laura, where I met Laura, resisted purchasing yarn, but did get some thread and needles to try to repair a rip in Wayne's rain jacket.

    We walked out of the walled area, had a Coke Zero and espresso, then walked back across, re-entering through Porto Santa Maria. A stop at a gelateria near San Michele in Foro, saw an Irish Pub called Little Folks, then exited via Porto San Pietro. We identified a train, and had an uneventful trip back to Stazione Santa Maria Novella. Picked up some candy and Doritos at the train station - it's been a couple of months since we've had the salty, crunchy delights- and located the C4 bus back to our digs. We had what was left of our Mozzarella ball and shared a Nutella candy.

    Almost 15k steps- but no hills, so we might not be wiped out tomorrow. Achievement - figuring out the bus situation.    Read more