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transAtlantic and Italy
  • Laura Folk
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  • Laura Folk

transAtlantic and Italy

A 58-day adventure by Laura Read more
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    🇮🇹 , Italy
    Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    June 1- Salerno and Military Reception

    June 1 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After breakfast we took the shuttle to the terminal. We asked the information people about the Landing Museum. We'd seen everything from "open today" to "closed forever" online. They made a call and told us it was closed on Mondays.

    We walked along the promenade for awhile - many old men and some families enjoyed the morning.

    On to the old town, which was charming. We stopped first for a Coke Zero and espresso, then walked some more. I picked up some chips and nutella-like cookies. W wanted to sit, so I wandered off, and found a sfogliatella in a pasticceria. Worth the walk. I wandered some more, then returned to Himself who had become the target of an apparently quite large pigeon dive-bomber. What a mess.

    We helped him recover ar a small restaurant where we had a Caprese, a horn of mixed fried seafood (which came with a Spritz- I chose limoncello for €10), and of course, the mandatory Coke Zero.

    Then back to the ship for major cleanup, and the Military Reception - pictures with the Captain- followed by dinner at La Cucina. The Maitre d' is Analyn. When we said we were too full for dessert, she invited us to come back another night for dessert.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 31- All Aboard

    May 31 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The girls had the breakfast room packed, so we got our food and went to the outside room- quite lovely, with a tree growing in the middle. We talked again with Paolo et al, and spoke English with the girls. They lost last night, so we're playing again today for Bronze.

    We checked out and took a van to the port, stopping at an ATM.

    Check-in at the port was pretty straightforward, and we did our muster drill then headed to lunch at the Ocean Pacific MDR. We headed to Spinnaker and enjoyed some conversations before heading to the stateroom.

    Bags arrived, did a little unpacking, then dinner at MDR, where we were seated at a very nice aft window. We headed back up to the Spinnaker and saw the huge, orange, full moon.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 30- Chilling in Civitavecchia

    May 30 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After a light breakfast, we commenced a day of uninterrupted chilling. We chatted with Margarita, who worked for the US Navy at La Maddelena in Sardinia, and discovered that all the girls are here for the Italian national Gymnastics competition. They all then left to go do their competing.

    I opened one of the huge umbrellas on the patio, pulled out my knitting, fired up some podcasts, and enjoyed the tranquility. I was joined by the felines- orange and grey, who creatively alternated between sunning and seeking shade. A mama dog stopped by- she must sleep in the barn, because she had hay in her hair.

    We had some lunch, and spoke with Paolo from Padua. He and his wife were staying here because their daughters were competing in in-line hockey.

    Chilled some more til dinner, walking around the ranch and enjoying the patio. I got a little sunburn - it happens.

    Dinner was again delicious. I did the tagliatelle with cinghiale - really like that stuff.

    A little re-packing, and to bed. (With girls getting back late, of course)    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 29Arrivederci Firenze, Benvenuti Civitavecchia

    May 29–31 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Raining this morning. Appropriate, since the beginning of our trip was pretty rainy as well.

    There was a sciopero - a national railroad strike- that affected many trains. The dates for the strikes are posted, and there are trains that are guaranteed to run- luckily ours was one. The whole thing sort of boggles mind and logic, but...

     We survived what was not supposed to be a stressful day. Tried booking taxi to the train 7- count'em SEVEN times on different apps before finally getting a 73 Euro Uber to take us 3 km (@15 minutes) to the station.

    The board listing departures - including our train to Rome- didn't give us the track number until it was just about time to leave - and no space for the luggage on the train. The steward had us put it in the vestibule so they could move the trolley through the aisle.

    In Rome, there was no info posted anywhere for the local train to Civitavecchia- I ended up asking anyone with a Trenitalia logo anywhere on their person. First guy said to go to the end, turn left, and keep going. Reinforced by another guy after we'd been walking quite awhile. Then I stopped at another entrance along the way. I asked for the track number. He said 27. Kept walking, (to be fair, the first guy was correct) with departure time rapidly approaching. Got to the track and got a seat on the platform (in short supply) and... Waited. And waited. Finally the train arrived - at Track 28, which luckily shared a platform with 27. This was all 2nd class, but not crowded- left the bags in the vestibule area, and W kept an eye on them. As I was checking schedules, I noticed that the train after ours was cancelled.

    We ended up with a 40 Euro taxi from the train station to the hotel. Checked in and started to chill.

    We're staying at the Tenuta dell'Argento - the place where Greg & Megan found themselves quarantined several years ago. It's a very rural, bucolic area... EXCEPT - there are 2 large groups of young girls who are staying here for the national Gymnastics. They are very, um, energetic and vocal.

    There was most definitely wine with dinner. The server chose for us after I gave him a price range. It was very tasty. We shared a Burrata and prosciutto. I had cacio e pepe- indescribably delicious, and W had tagliatelle with ragu.

    The girls were energetic and vocal until they were corralled about midnight.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 26- Medici Chapels

    May 26 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Wayne wanted to see the outside of the Medici Chapels. We found the bus stop near our place (they moved it "temporarily" to the next block.). We got off the bus and walked to a cafe for a short stop. When we got to the Chapels, I decided we should go inside. I said "due vecchie", and even though they don't have a senior rate listed, she charged us 1 € less each

    The first level has some tombs, but not terribly exciting. I went to the second level and saw several Michaelangelo sculptures. I walked to another area, and oh my gosh... It was the most elaborate stone inlaid space I've ever seen.

    Lunch was at a Greek restaurant - enough leftovers for dinner.

    It's hot. My little fan is getting a workout.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    This & That & Thoughts on the Trip

    May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The little church around the corner - San Niccolo - was a nice place to visit. They have a little choir of about 10 women and the organist, who plays a keyboard for the service, and an organ piece at the end. There is a couple who do the readings, and the priest, in saddle shoes, lights the candles with a bic lighter before vesting. It finally occurred to me that I could bring up the Mass text in Italian on my phone so I could follow along. They sang Regina Caeli (in Latin) at the end- I guess because it was May. It felt good to sing along.

    Santissima Annunciata Cathedral was a great visit. On the he way back we stopped at the Santissima Annunciata Pharmacy - I got some face cleaner, and the lady gave me some face cream samples. Very nice product, so we went back to pick up a jar. She gave me perfume samples. Extremely nice, but I'll resist.
    Sunset- beautiful from the Piazalle Michaelangelo, but we were also very happy with the view from along the Arno. We got pics of Ponte Della Grazie with the sun setting behind Ponte Vecchio... We went to the park several evenings to enjoy the view without the climb (or bus chases).

    Walking around - it's what we did most of the time. We took some buses, but mostly walkin- Santa Croce and the Ponte Vecchio areas were our most frequent visits.

    Shopping - 2 things saved us from over-buying. 1) We had to carry everything. Not generally a problem unless we were doing the Coke Zero stock-ups. 2). The small fridge. If you get too much, you have nowhere to put it. There was very little left- some decaf coffee which I labeled and dated for the next visitors, the same with some Nesquick. We finished the olive oil that was there and left a mostly full bottle.

    Speaking Italian - when I was allowed to get a few words out before the locals switched to English, I was complimented. Some people were kind enough to let me continue in Italian. When we get on the ship, it will be tough not to use the "reflex words"- Buon giorno, grazie, prego buona giornata, piacere.....

    Neighborhood Pub- we met the most interesting people- mostly Americans and Canadians, and mostly college age and recent grads- at the Joshua Tree Pub. We went frequently for an evening bev. The first couple of times I ordered Aperol Spritz- but instead of bitters, prosecco and a bit of fizzy water, it was all fizzy water. I switched to Guinness, while Wayne enjoyed Peroni.

    Our apartment - it was a great place to spend a month. It was perfect for Wayne and me. There were 8 steps up- so glad it wasn't more, and that we didn't end up on the third floor somewhere without a lift. I locked us out once, but Francesca's kids came to the rescue.

    The flood of 1966- the impact remains. Looking down at the Arno from the street, it appears to be 30-40 feet below. The flood went about 15 feet above the street level. All across Florence. That's a lot of water.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 23 Piazzalle Michaelangelo

    May 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The AT bus app is sometimes helpful, and frequently maddening. Piazzalle Michaelangelo is a VERY steep hike up the hill- a bit beyond our ability right now. We can do it- we DID do it, but we have to stop very frequently, blocking the way for those behind us. And the exhaustion exceeds any feelings of accomplishment we should have.

    We know that buses go there- we saw them on our previous trek up there. So when we put our origin and destination into either the bus app or Google maps seeking a bus solution - they tell us to walk. 8 minutes, it says. And just finding out which buses go where is a challenge.

    After creating a bunch of pretend scenarios over hours, I found out that the 23 bus gets us to the Verazzano (yes) bridge, and we switch to the 13 bus to get to Piazzale Michaelangelo. They couldn't just tell me it was an option.

    Anyway, we made our way up there- the mistake being it was Saturday, so we were joined by hundreds if not thousands of fellow sunset-seekers. Couldn't get the good views, but the camera caught some, when held high over peoples' heads.

    We took a bus down, but didn't get off on time, so ended up past Santa Croce for a decent walk home- but not uphill.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 22- Bus ride to the Mall

    May 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Lack of pics today.

    W wanted to see the Mall, and also get an extension cord for the HDMI cord, so I won't have to keep hopping up to get through the commercials.

    We stopped at the bar/restaurant for breakfast stuff.

    Then to the huge Coop store, got more chips, mozzarella, and some tomato sauce.

    Survived the bus ride home, with evidence that chair hogs are everywhere. 1 person. 4 seats.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 21- Recovery Day

    May 21 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Cinque-Terre is a big day, and we needed to recover. We went to a little restaurant/bar behind us and had a Caprese, W had some spaghetti, and I got a Negroni. A man with a lab stopped to talk with a friend , and I got to pet the woofer.

    On the way back I stopped in briefly to the neighborhood church.

    That was about it for the day.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 20- Cinque-Terre: Finally!

    May 20 in Italy

    First time, the taxi didn't come. Second time the trains weren't running. Today we were actually able to take the trip. The taxi app is great - 4 minutes! And the ride to Santa Maria Novella took only 7 minutes with no traffic at 6:15 am. The bar wasn't open yet, and W resisted going to McDonald's, but it was open, had cappuccino and pastries, and was a place to sit.

    We met up with the group and walked to the bus station area, where we had gathered for our excursion last week.

    The bus ride was about 2 hours. The towns have recovered more from the time I saw them after the 2010 floods. We did a lot of walking, a lot of train riding, and had a very nice lunch at a restaurant in Corniglia overlooking the ocean. In another town (Vernazza?) we had a gelato stop, and in Monterossa we sat at a bar along the beach for bevs.

    Long, good day.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    Tomb of anti-Pope John XXIIIRenovation underway in The BaptistrySanta ReparataMary Magdalen by Donatello

    May 19- Duomo Day

    May 19 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We got a combination ticket for The Baptistry, Duomo Museum, and Santa Reparata- the excavation under the Duomo (official name of the Duomo is The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore). We opted out of climbing the dome and the bell tower.

    The Baptistry was the first stop. The dome is under reconstruction, so lots of scaffolding in the center of the building. The Baptistry contains some works of art, as well as the tomb of anti-Pope John XXIII.

    We were headed to the Museum a bit before noon, since our "show time" for the Crypt of Santa Reparata was 1 pm. The line was the length of the Duomo, so W took a seat, and I took our place in line. I met a very nice family from Austin, Texas, whose maternal roots were Italian. Their daughter was charming- 10 or so with red braids, and very knowledgeable. It took the better part of 45 minutes to make it to the front of the line, and then into the Duomo and down to the excavation. It was fascinating - mosaics, tomb carvings. The first building may have started in the 3rd-5th century. The current Duomo, built over the crypt, was completed in 1436.

    On to the Museum, which holds the Ghilberti doors (named Gates to Paradise by Michaelangelo) previously on the Baptistry. They were restored and moved to the museum in 1990 after damage from centuries of exposure and the flood of 1966. The museum houses works by Michaelangelo, Donatello, and many more. There is a Pieta by Michaelangelo from 1470. The chisel marks touched me- he actually made those marks- making his presence more apparent to me than the finished surfaces. The Donatello Mary Magdalen impressed me- she appears to be at total surrender to the Lord, giving hope to all.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    In the Second Cloister
    Galileo's tombMichaelangelo's TombMemorial to Dante. He's not buried here, but in RavennaMachiavelli's TombThe water rose almost to this windowThe life of St FrancisDella Robbia -St BartholomewRosary and candle for special intentionsThe white mark in between the two windows marks the high point of 1966 flood-@15 feet at this point

    May 18- Sciopero, so Santa Croce

    May 18 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We were supposed to go to Cinque-Terre today, but there's a rail/bus/ whatever strike, so we were given the option to reschedule, leaving today without a plan. So, we decided to visit Santa Croce.

    Santa Croce is only a few minutes away from us, and we've walked past it many times, but haven't gone inside. I went online for tickets. They said the tickets would be sent in 30 minutes. I ended up doing several chats with the company as our entry time approached, and received them after almost 2 hours, minutes before our entry time .

    What a place. Galileo, Machiavelli, and Michaelangelo are among the notables buried here- but that's not all. There are 2 beautiful cloisters, and the Refectory which houses some restored treasures from the flood of November 4, 1966.

    That day saw a devastating flood that not only took 35 lives, but resulted in the destruction of thousands of books, manuscripts, and works of art. For reference, the water reached about 15 feet where we are staying - we look down quite a distance to the Arno from the road near our apartment. The water hit Santa Croce, The Duomo, and everything in between. Ponte Vecchio was severely impacted. I watched a documentary done at the time by Franco Zeferelli and Richard Burton, made to bring attention not only to the impact on the residents of this incredible city, but also on the effect on centuries-millemia of the world's culture. It highlights the efforts of people from around the world who participated in steps to preserve and restore what could be salvaged.

    The Last Supper by Giorgio Vasari was one of these. It was commissioned in the mid-1500s. It was salvaged, with tissue paper affixed to the surface to prevent the paint from falling off. Restoration didn't begin until 2005, and took over 10 years. The painting is breathtaking. They also installed a pulley system so in case of future flooding, it can be raised.

    We walked through the cloisters, enjoying the peace and beautiful views.

    When we departed, we headed toward our little "Santa Croce" grocery for more Coke Zeros. I saw a sign for St Francis Gardens, and took a detour. Back behind Santa Croce is the leather school. I was only there for a few minutes, but plan a return.

    After procuring the bevs and some more Doritos for W, we stopped at a little restaurant on the Piazza for some refreshment, and met a family -parents from DC and kids schooling in NYC. They were doing the total Room With a View thing, staying in the building over the restaurant. They were planning to do the sunset at Piazzalle Michaelangelo. We alerted them to the steep hike.

    Check the picture captions.

    And then home.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 17 Church & Out for a Walk

    May 17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I decided to head to the little church around the corner - San Niccolo. It wasn't clear if Mass was at 10:30 or 11- websites listed both. Turns out 11 was the winner. I spoke with a woman who visits Florence twice a year. She hasn't been anywhere else in Italy. It later occurred to me that I might have asked her if she wanted to have coffee.

    Mass was good, with a little choir, and a sermon about Christ's presence around us- most of which I understood.

    The youth group is getting ready for a mission trip, and raising money, so they were taking donations and giving cookies and crocheted items.

    Later in the day, we went for a walk to the other side of the river and back across Ponte Vecchio, stopping the grocery store. I picked up some pasta, and a broom and dustpan. This apartment has everything, but I haven't seen a broom, and we desperately need a sweep.

    Stopped off at a bar for a bev. I had a Negroni Sbagliato which substitutes prosecco for the gin. Still packs a punch. There were the most darling dogs.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler
    Our apartment is behind the dark orange buildingThe higher white marking indicates the water level during the 1966 flood

    Walkabout Anniversary Day

    May 16 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    45 of 'em... Years married, that is. We had our typical breakfast - juice, coffee, pastry, then set off on our day. We went around the corner to the restaurant we tried on our first night here. I asked for a reservation at 8, and was told, 7 or 9. OK .. 7 it is. (W wanted 8 because it will be 2 at home- the time of the ceremony - although I was late.)

    Our walk took us past the Arch in Piazza Della Republica, and on to Piazza Vecchio, with its statue of Davis and so many more. The lines for Uffizi were impressive. The towers are amazing around Tuscany, and Palazzo Vecchio is no exception. Onward to the Duomo. We got the lay of the land, and I got tickets online for Tuesday. We stopped at a restaurant for Coke Zero and a little tart for him, affogatto for me. I initially asked for gelato, but they only had big bowls... Too much for me. Affogatto was perfect.

    We walked to the Cathedral of Santissima Annunciata, where I planned to visit the chapel of San Pellegrino and put in a word for some special people. Nope. Can't pray there during lunch time... They close at 12:30 and open at 4. It was a little after 2. Another day.

    So on to Ponte Vecchio, which has beautiful views and a lot of gold shops. Not needing any gold, we enjoyed the views, and continued to the grocery to replenish the larder. It appears that we shop a lot- and we do, because 1) there isn't room to store a lot, and the fridge is tiny, and 2) we have to carry everything. And since we were right next to Strega Nocciolo, we had to stop for gelato. Almost to our apartment is a dark orange building, with a mark indicating the water height during the 1966 flood.

    Then home to get ready for dinner. When they say 7, they mean not a minute earlier. We were shown to our table, and presented with glasses of prosecco in honor of the day. Such a sweet gesture. We had prosciutto and a creamy cheese. I thought I had ordered the spaghetti with tomato sauce for Wayne, but he was served a thick, hearty tomato soup. He also ordered white beans. I had osso buco which was so flavorful. I could only eat a small amount, so it will serve as dinner for both of us on another day. The people at the next table ordered a Bistrcca Fiorentina- this monster would be dinner for their party of five, and I'll bet they didn't finish it. We got some dessert to go, but we're still too full to eat it tonight.

    The sun was setting, and I was able to catch some beautiful pictures of the sunset behind Ponte Della Grazie and Ponte Vecchio.

    Another great day, marking another great year in this great life.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Another Kicked -Back Day

    May 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We had planned to walk over to the Duomo today, but it rained, so we hung out and watched a movie.

    In the evening, we headed to the local bar. I had ordered Aperol spritz the last two times, but when I watched them make it the last time, I noticed only Aperol and soda- no prosecco. So tonight I ordered a Guinness.

    This bar is interesting. The first time we kept to ourselves. The next time we were seated next to some college guys from Massachusetts - one had been (or is still) in Air Force or Army. Nice conversation. Tonight we were next to a couple of guys from France. We talked about all sorts of things from travel to music, to food shopping in Florence.

    We went next door to the pizzaria and ordered a Quattro Stagione da portare. (4 Season pizza (ham, artichokes, olives, and mushrooms) to go). Back at our apartment, it matched up well with the rest of the wine that Viva's KitKat so kindly sent to our room.

    And another movie.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    14 May- Shopping

    May 14 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    This morning we took out the trash. I texted with Francesca, asking where we were supposed to take it. Easy answer- on the next block there are a bunch of bins- recyclables of all kinds, organic trash, and other stuff. We did all that, then walked to the little shop down the block for some fruit and biscuits.

    Wayne hates Italian TV. I like it, because it helps me with the language - but "happy spouse, happy house." (I made that up- but others might have as well.)

    I found an electronics store, Euronics, that is sort of a smaller Best Buy. I checked the website and they had a USB C to HDMI cable that I hoped would let me mirror Netflix and YouTube.

    I used my handy at bus app, and entered the address incorrectly, but it was ok- I just had to walk a little longer once I got off the bus. When I finally got to the store, I was gobsmacked. It was in an entire life-sized, multi-level shopping mall, with not only the Euronics, but a Co-op supermarket- like Wegmans on steroids. And H&M, and a second level of stores that I didn't even look at.

    I got the cable, then did a little more grocery shopping. Luckily, I knew I'd have to carry everything, so didn't get too much. They have self-service dog food. Who knew?

    I found a bus back- the first one was so packed they couldn't close the door, so I got out. The next one was pretty full, but worked out well, and I discovered another stop near our place.

    The cable works! It was acting up at first, but then I realized that the case on my phone prevented the plug from inserting completely. So, problem solved, and after playing with phone settings, we watched a couple of episodes of Seven Dials- Agatha Christie .

    Capatelli with dried tomatoes for dinner.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 13- Lucca

    May 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our first foray using the city bus. And of course it rained. We used the atbus app to figure out how to get to Santa Maria Novella station to catch the train to Lucca. The first C4 bus was so packed, there was no chance of getting on. While waiting, I played around in the app and bought a ticket. Not necessary, because you can just "tap on" with a credit card or Google pay, but it's another experience. We got the next C4, almost half an hour later, but we had planned plenty of time. Our tiny bus dropped us off just across from SMN. The first cafe was packed, so I suggested going to the "Self Serve" which also has a huge bookstore. Graffa for him (the cashier didn't know the word graffa🤷‍♀️ -but donut worked) and an espresso and mini muffin for me.

    Then wait. I spoke with a woman from Bolivia whose husband is Spanish, and shared some time.

    The train ticket is second class on the Trenitalia local to Pisa. Comfortable, new, no complaints here. But I do have renewed appreciation for the high speed trains.

    We got off the train and saw a promising path that took us through a rabbit warren that tracked through the wall and into the lovely city of Lucca . We were really hungry, so got pizza Mediterraneo (mozzarella , olives, tomatoes, onions) at a nice little place. There were some enterprising avians, including a tiny bird that landed on our table and helped itself to a small piece of mozzarella from Wayne's plate.

    Then walking, pictures, towers, churches, statues....

    Interesting fact - they were filming for Season 4 of "The Diplomat", with the plot including G7. The city was decked out with G7 signs.

    I stopped in to several churches, but lit candles at San Michele in Foro- which as best I could fathom was Saint Michael in the Hole. I found this disturbing. After a bit of research, I discovered that it was named for the Forum, which had apparently been in that area previously. Beats being in a hole. In our travels, we found a kitchen store, and I was able to get a replacement for the missing part of the 3 cup espresso pot. Hopefully no more explosions. Then to a yarn store - L'Arcolaio Laura, where I met Laura, resisted purchasing yarn, but did get some thread and needles to try to repair a rip in Wayne's rain jacket.

    We walked out of the walled area, had a Coke Zero and espresso, then walked back across, re-entering through Porto Santa Maria. A stop at a gelateria near San Michele in Foro, saw an Irish Pub called Little Folks, then exited via Porto San Pietro. We identified a train, and had an uneventful trip back to Stazione Santa Maria Novella. Picked up some candy and Doritos at the train station - it's been a couple of months since we've had the salty, crunchy delights- and located the C4 bus back to our digs. We had what was left of our Mozzarella ball and shared a Nutella candy.

    Almost 15k steps- but no hills, so we might not be wiped out tomorrow. Achievement - figuring out the bus situation.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 11 -Pisa, San Gimignano and Siena

    May 11 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    What an 18k step day! We got up early, summoned a taxi that arrived almost immediately, (go appTaxi!) and got to the meeting point with lots of time to spare. An enterprising food truck has a lucrative business selling coffees, pastries, and sandwiches at the site across from the bus station.

    We had a huge group -80 people, but the tour guide, Aaron, his assistant Renate and driver Riccardo were very organized and checked, checked, and double-checked at every opportunity. (Definitely no shades of Petra for this crew.) We got seats on the upper level which provided a day full of beautiful Tuscan views.

    First stop was Pisa- the tower is still leaning as it was 40 years ago. We looked at the sites- the Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistry, all from the outside, and got a bev at a cafe.

    Next stop was San Gimigniano where we had a delicious lunch at Fuori Porta with Renate. Antipasto - Wayne and I laughed beca use we each had our own plate- we're always sharing one. This was served with a nice Chianti - but no fava beans. Salad was offered, and on to the pasta- penne with meat sauce. We could only finish half- but it was SO good- served with another red Tuscan wine. Dessert was a very rich "crema" -(flan) served with a local white. And I didn't take any pictures!

    We walked around the city, beautiful as we remembered it. Then back to the bus

    Last stop, Siena. I opted to go to the Cathedral, where I lit candles, and joined Mark Wahlberg for a rosary for important intentions for important loved ones. The Cathedral is quite beautiful - aren't they all- and each has its own special spiritual feel.

    When I left the Cathedral it was pouring, and as I headed down the street I saw the most vibrant rainbow. Wayne and I planned to meet at the central square, but kept missing each other. I got a bit worried, but we both made it to the tour's meeting place on time. I had a nice talk with Renate on the walk to the bus, and when I told her about the special intentions, she suggested I go to Santissima Annunciata which has a chapel devoted to San Pellegrino (the saint- not the water), and the nuns will add my people to their list. I'll aim to get there later this week.

    We returned to the starting point which we'd left almost 12 hours before, and walked up the Santa Maria Novella station to catch a taxi. We found the good (and more expensive) bathrooms, and saw the local Five Guys. Then a taxi back home    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Bells at noon and Return to Fiesole

    May 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We got a "bonus day" with our Hop-on-Hop-off, so decided to return to Fiesole. We sat on a bench awaiting the bus, along the Arno River, across from Santa Croce. There were a bunch of people painting the statue in the square - some were still there when we returned in the afternoon. At noon we were treated to bells from the Duomo, Santa Croce, Monastery, and countless other churches.

    The views of Florence from the mountain are so spectacular - all those Renaissance paintings with the cypress trees, villas, towers, and churches - they're right there!

    We had a lunch of antipasti - got the only table that wasn't reserved - on the Piazza where Wayne had hoped we could eat.

    One possibility we discussed was getting off the bus at Piazzalle Michaelangelo and walking up to San Miniato for the evening service, but for some reason, we were both tired, so headed back home for an early evening.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 8- More HoHo, SMN, and shop

    May 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    An unexpected benny- we get an extra day on our HoHo tickets. Today we took the Blue line, and "Hopped Off" at Santa Maria Novella (SMN). We want to get tickets to Lucca, but I can't get the app to work. Is it because my phone is US? I don't know... but we got to the station, and I was able to use the machine to get tickets. There's a shopping area that has my fave Flying Tiger. I picked up a couple of little things, and after a wc stop (€1, please) we headed back to the bus. I decided to stock up on groceries .

    The stop near Santa Croce is skipped because of construction, so I got off at our stop. Some ladies from a Celebrity Cruise wanted to get lunch, so I aimed them up the street. I headed on to my little store, glad that we chose time to enjoy rather than the tour hordes everywhere. I picked up some Coke Zeros, milk, and juice for Himself, yogurt for me, olive oil and bread.

    I will say right now, that the Florentine bread makes me long for bread anywhere else. Many centuries ago there was a tax levied on salt by whoever ruled the area back then, so they stopped putting salt in their bread. They still haven't gotten over it.

    Walking back from the store at Santa Croce was a bit tough on the arms. But crossing the bridge, I met Cindy & Steve, who are staying in an apartment near the San Niccolo tower. We chatted about San Miniato, Piazzalle Michaelangelo, and the like. They offered to help carry the groceries, since they were going my way. Nice people. They're leaving in a few days, but hope to come back for 2 months.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Thurs May 7-HoHo and Fiesole

    May 7 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had- wait for it- a beautiful, sunny day after days of rain and thunderstorms. So we walked to the HoHo stop near the PonteDella Grazie. I got 48 hour tickets , so we don't have to feel rushed. We met a group of German women waiting for the same bus. Interesting conversation ensued, and we boarded the bus. Out route took us around the East side of the city, then up into the mountains to Fiesole.

    Fiesole is an ancient city, with Etruscan and Roman roots, and is home to three US University overseas centers- most notably St Mary's of Minnesota, Georgetown, and, oh yeah - Harvard. Two (that I attended ) out of three ain't bad. Now if Providence joined in... We walked a short bit, and had some lunch. Tagliatelle con funghi for him, and Pappardelle alle cinghiale for me. After filling the bellies, we walked to the ancient archaeology center, where we saw Roman ruins, including the amphitheatre, Lombardi tombs, Roman temple, and Roman baths. Well worth the €7 entry fee.
    Then back to the bus stop, with a stop off in the Duomo di San Romolo for some candle-lighting. The bus ride down was as breathtaking as the trip up.

    The bus route continued through the West side of Florence, and over to Oltrarno. We saw Piazzalle Michaelangelo again, and went down the mountain to get off at our stop.

    With thoughts of gelato in our heads, we headed toward Sbrino where we enjoyed our treats yesterday. On the way, we saw our German lady friends from the morning. We chatted a bit, grabbed a picture, and on to Sbrino. There was the longest queue of school kids... No way. So we headed across the street to the Joshua Pub- not exactly Florentine, but an amusing, fun pub to enjoy an Aperol spritz and Guinness. Good decision. When we passed the gelateria, the line was still crazy long

    Back to the house for a pre-dinner nap, followed by a dinner of croquettes and cappelini with a dried tomato topping that I conjured.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 6- Walking and Groceries

    May 6 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We headed to the grocery store near Santa Croce, and encountered far fewer crowds than on Saturday. On our way we came upon an apparent Ambulance vs auto encounter. Lots of cops, another ambulance and many ticked-off motorists and their horns.

    We saw a wine window, got to the store and picked up some things to keep body and soul together, without over-stressing our stomachs or credit cards at the restaurants- some more meats and cheese, biscuits, colas, etc. We stopped in Piazza Santa Croce for a rest and met a couple from South Carolina on a land tour. We found an ATM for Wayne, and headed home.

    Walking back, we got great views of Piazzalle Michaelangelo, San Miniato, and the San Niccolo neighborhood which is our home for May. After a rest, we decided to explore further down the neighborhood. We saw the Porta San Niccolo, with terraced walkways up to Piazzale Michaelangelo and the rose gardens. We walked down to the bridge then headed back. Since it is a food shopping kind of day, we stopped into a little shop and got some sun-dried tomatoes, chicken cutlets, croquettes, and an artichoke. There was also a nice selection of wine and sauces for pasta.

    Last stop was for gelato at Sbrino. A definite winner. Quiet evening.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    Cinque di Maggio - Fa Piove

    May 5 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Rai, rain, rain.
    We were scheduled to go to Cinque-Terre today, but didn't go- and not because of the rain. We got up at 5:45, and headed out. I had ordered a taxi for 6:30 am to take us to the Santa Maria Novella station, and- NO TAXI. I tried ordering another but couldn't connect. Then used the Uber app to order a taxi, and no takers. I ended up calling the tour guide, and explained. She said they could wait another 10 minutes, but I further explained that we were in Oltrarno and couldn't make it in time. I just didn't want them to have to wait for us.

    I emailed GetYourGuide, and said I knew we couldn't cancel, but asking if we could get a discount if we re-booked. They kindly indicated they'll work with us

    We took naps, and started to do some more planning, then headed out to get some lunch. W had some minestrone and we shared a meat and cheese plate, and got glasses of a nice Montepulciano.

    Back to our place in a downpour. Some more researching, and dinner- cappelini that we bought at the store the other day, and some of the wine from Francesca for me, hot chocolate and cookies from the French market for Wayne.    Read more

  • Laura FolktransAtlantic and ItalyTraveler

    May 4-Piazalle Michaelangelo

    May 4 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I didn't blow up the coffee this morning, thanks to the nifty machine that Meg & Greg gave me. We had our breakfast and then planned the day. Our original plan was to do HoHo Bus today. Thunderstorms were predicted, so we held back. But when it became apparent that we were having a beautiful day instead, we decided to "head to the hills" and visit Piazzalle Michaelangelo. It's apparently THE place to be to watch the light change in the evening. We left before then, but I'm sure we'll do sunset up there sometime.

    It's a climb! Up and up, roads, stairs, steep flat stairs... And up some more. We got to the area below the Piazalle, and stopped for Coke Zero and water, and some beautiful views. Then up again. There were some food kiosks, and a bunch of market tents with souvenirs, towels, clothes, and the like. And right in the middle, ol' David himself.

    We admired the views, W took a seat, and I headed up to the Monastery of San Miniato. The views are even more beautiful from there. The Zeferelli family is in the cemetery. I visited the Farmacia, where they sell beeswax candles, pastries, and other items made by the monks. I hope to go back and spend time looking at the healing oils they mix.

    The church is simple and beautiful, with the main altar behind the one in the center. I lit a couple of candles.

    The way down is so much easier. I caught up with Wayne and we headed down and back to the apartment. I'm getting much better at unlocking the gate. We had our leftovers from the other night.    Read more

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