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  • Day 124

    Eagle hunters in Western Mongolia

    July 12, 2019 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Originally, we wanted to drive to a glacier lake today (Tolbo Nuur). 10kms in front of our destination, we drive through such a beautiful mountainous area that we can't resist. We change plans despite the freezing temperatures, take a turn and drive down to a little stream in a lush green valley.
    We turn Hans into our living room and just when we start cooking dinner, two locals come by on their motorbike. Super friendly and enthusiastic, they start a conversation with us in broken English. We quickly learn that they're not so much interested in our story, but instead want to show us their eagle.
    I had read about the eagle hunters in Western Mongolia, but apparently you usually only get to see them in winter. Hence I had dismissed this opportunity of getting to know this tradition but our two new friends are about to prove me wrong.
    They quickly understand that we can't go anywhere at the moment as the car is set up and dinner is cooking. So they simply confirm that we stay where we are and tell us that they will go and get the eagle, come back and then we'll take pictures. Transporting an eagle on the motorbike? That surely can't be possible. However, we nod our heads and tell them we'll wait.
    20minutes of wondering if they'll actually come back and pondering about the reason for this generosity (We know that Mongolians are super welcoming and friendly, but this seems like a lot of effort), we've got visitors again.
    The two boys have returned, having an eagle and a traditional costume with them.
    Tom is quickly wrapped in the blue and golden traditional gown, the eagle is unwrapped and the photoshoot begins. Both Tom and I are allowed to hold the eagle with the special glove to protect our arms from the eagle's claws. We take pictures in turns, with and without the boys and in the end they even lift the bird on our bullbar, making Hans look just a bit more majestic than he already does.
    Wow! The eagle is really impressive. Such a beautiful bird.
    We had been contemplating what we could offer the boys while they were gone and hence ask them if they'd like tea or coffee or anything else. We'll, surprise surprise. The older one asks for a phone and explains a photo is 30000 MNT (about 10€). Seems like they're used to tourists in that area... Unfortunately, this hadn't been communicated to us beforehand and we don't have that much money with us. So we give them what we have. To make up for the difference, the eagle hunter asks for candy, chocolate or clothes but apart from a chocolate bar we have to disappoint again. We simply don't carry excess that we could readily give away. An overlanding journey is well planned. They seem to be ok with what they got, we exchange fb details and then they prepare to leave.
    I'm curiously watching how the eagle is wrapped in an old jacket, secured with a leash, wrapped around its body in a special way and in the end carried like a baby on the back of the bike. These guys definitely know what they're doing.
    We wave them good-bye and return to Hans.
    Dinner is hopelessly overcooked by now and we're still a bit stunned about what just happened.
    Happy to have had the opportunity but a bit disappointed that is was a paid service, which we hadn't been aware of. Anyhow, I think these boys deserved the money for all their efforts and I hope they're not too disappointed by the amount.
    After all, it's not every day you're visited by an eagle on your car in a valley by a stream.
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