Going home

maaliskuuta - joulukuuta 2019
An epic journey from Australia to Germany by car Lue lisää

Luettelo maista

  • Turkki
  • Georgia
  • Azerbaijan
  • Uzbekistan
  • Tadžikistan
  • Kirgisia
  • Kazakstan
  • Näytä kaikki (12)
Luokat
Ei mitään
  • 46,3tajetut kilometrit
Kuljetusvälineet
  • Lento11,6tkilometriä
  • Kävely-kilometriä
  • Patikointi-kilometriä
  • Polkupyörä-kilometriä
  • Moottoripyörä-kilometriä
  • Tuk tuk-kilometriä
  • Auto-kilometriä
  • Juna-kilometriä
  • Bussi-kilometriä
  • Matkailuauto-kilometriä
  • Karavaani-kilometriä
  • Neliveto-kilometriä
  • Uima-kilometriä
  • Melonta/Soutu-kilometriä
  • Moottorivene-kilometriä
  • Purjehdus-kilometriä
  • Asuntolaiva-kilometriä
  • Lautta-kilometriä
  • Risteilyalus-kilometriä
  • Hevonen-kilometriä
  • Hiihtäminen-kilometriä
  • Liftaus-kilometriä
  • Cable car-kilometriä
  • Helikopteri-kilometriä
  • Paljain jaloin-kilometriä
  • 116jalanjäljet
  • 283päivää
  • 694valokuvat
  • 185tykkäykset
  • Fabrika Hostel

    8. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We didn't stay here, but it's well worth a visit! An old sewing factory turned into a social hub, with co-working space, a hostel, several bars and restaurants and a few shops. Really hip

  • Meeting friends along the way

    8. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    You might complain about social media and the time it takes away from every day Life as much as you want, but it is good for one thing: keeping people connected.
    I hadn't even realized that I had posted our location in Georgia, when I got a message from Kilian, a good friend from Munich, mentioning he is traveling in Georgia as well.
    What a coincidence! As we had no other plans, we decided to meet up at the club Oasis in Udabno, a super fun and quirky place in the middle of nowhere! Dogs and cats around everywhere, the opportunity to camp in their backyard, nice cottages and good beer, wine and food. You really don't need anything else. And the company made last night simply perfect! So thank you Social Media for your power to connect in real life. Cause nothing beats a meeting of friends!
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  • Mountainbiking in Truso valley

    11. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I don't think there is any landscape that's as intriguing to Tom and me as mountains in combination with water. When several people recommended to drive into a gorge close to Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi) it was a done deal. Instead of heading to the semidesert down southeast, we take the Georgian Military Highway (an ancient passage through the Caucasus, first properly engineered as a road by the Russians in the 19th century) and make our way up through spectacular mountain scenery. The road is dotted with old churches and fortress ruins and watchtowers are a prominent sign of its conflict heavy history. The road through the gorge leading to the Truso valley ends with a military checkpoint as well. Civilians can't go further up as the Russian border is close.
    However, you can still enjoy wonderful views from the parts you can reach without getting in trouble. The Kudliks and we reach the furthest drivable spot next to the mineral heavy river quite late, having enjoyed the beautiful light of an early disappearing sun along the way. Autumn is beautiful here!
    After a cold night, Tom and I get up early and get ready to take our mountain bikes for a spin. We can still get about 4kms further down into the valley, just not with the car. It's not a technical Mountainbike ride but exploratory enough to be lots of fun. We drive through sparcely populated villages, visit an active monastery and finally climb some old ruins next to the checkpoint.
    On the way back we take a different route. We had spotted a mineral lake and follow animal trails on the other side of the river. This certainly feels a bit more like real mountain biking and the lake itself is a highlight as well. Due to its high level of carbon dioxide it actually bubbles. Unfortunately you're not allowed to swim in it but it tastes exactly like mineral water.
    The last bit of the track is the most fun. It leads along a steep ridge (causing me to push my bike a few times), down to the bridge close to our car. What a fun adventure.
    The Kudliks are yet to explore the area so Tom and I relax and take our time to pack up, every now and then having a chat to curious tourists. The valley became quite busy with hikers just before lunch and we can only imagine how many people must enjoy this area in summer. You probably guessed, we're happy to be here during the shoulder season and intend to make the most of the surrounding areas before it gets too cold.
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  • Kazbegi region

    13. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The prospect of rain drove us out of the Truso valley and towards Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi). It sits beautifully nestled between the high Caucasus mountains and is home to one of the most photographed icons of Georgia: the Gergeti Trinity Church.
    We spend the rainy day getting information about hikes and Mountainbiking in the area and having an extended lunch at the Rooms Hotel (a top notch address in the area, famous for its views of Mt Kazbek and the church). The Kudlik family is still with us and afterwards we make our way to the grassy meadow just underneath the church. The new road makes driving up there super easy and we're happy with the spot. The cold and humid climate drives us into the caravan for the rest of the day. Playing Uno and drinking wine, we have a great time and are thankful for the Kudliks' hospitality in these conditions.
    Thankfully, the weather clears up the next day and Tom and I head for a hike towards the glacier and Mt Kazbek. About half way up we're joined by a cute dog who decides to accompany us all the way up to the hut and almost back down. Unfortunately her stamina crumbled halfway down the mountain and we have to make do with the other strays that decided to call our campspot home for the few days we're there. Not too bad either.
    It's Sunday, and the church draws a constant line of visitors. Three of them decided to have a picnic close to us. Turns out two of them (plus their baby) are from Munich, too, and we have a nice chat for some time.
    Further chats at held with fellow overlanders parking close by: a Belgian couple travelling with two dogs, a couple from Berlin travelling with two dogs as well, and a German family travelling with one dog in a T3. So lovely to meet same-spirited humans all around!
    The next day, after a lazy morning, Martin, Lenny, Tom and I go Mountainbiking in the beautiful Sno valley. A lot of swearing on my part later (I hate riding uphill) Tom and I reach Juta, another beautiful mountain village. Unfortunately, I'm in no condition to hike up to get even better views after the ride, but the Kudlik family did it the next day (by car) and reported the best mountain feeling ever. Oh well, next time. While the Kudliks spend another night up in the mountains, we slowly make our way down the Georgian Military Highway to start heading West.
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  • Heading West in Georgia

    15. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Georgia has so much to offer that we decide to leave the Kazbegi region after a few days, even though we loved it.
    You can't go West through the mountains as South Ossetia has been claimed by the Russians, hence we drive on the Georgian Military Highway almost all the way down South first, before we can finally turn West.
    We spend a couple of days looking at cultural highlights, like the cave city in Uplistsikhe, the Ateni Sioni church (which currently is under restoration), the Mzvoreti monastery (that we hike up to) and then join the Kudlik family again to make our ways up to the mountains once more. This time Svaneti. But before we tackle the pass to go up, we spend one more day around Kutaisi, exploring the Prometheus Cave and the Okatse Canyon and testing some more natural wine.
    Oh, life is beautiful!
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  • Goerdzi pass

    19. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Well, taking the direct route to Mestia is easy. So why not try and go up further East, via Lentheki and the Goerdzi pass?
    Thankfully friends of ours had done it just a week before and reported good conditions apart from muddy parts and a construction site at the end. The Kudliks and we are intrigued. We don't have our 4WDs for nothing, right?
    And the drive is beautiful! Slowly making our way up past tiny villages, the views are simply spectacular. You got to love autumn colors.
    But then, just a few kms before we reach the top, there is a huge construction site and mud everywhere. It looks like a landslide had come down not long ago. Water is still flowing down the road through 30cm deep mud over a stretch of about 200m uphill. Martin and Tom inspect the road and decide to go for it. After all, there is no turning back now and also plenty of construction workers around to help, right? Excavators are doing their best to flatten down fallen rocks from the landslide. 4WD, low range and diff lock activated Hans works his magic, guided by Tom's capable hand and feet and of course we make it through. Enough excitement for today though. Just after the site, we decide to camp on a grassy spot overlooking two valleys and shadowed by huge mountains. If it wasn't for the noise of the construction site and the prospect of even better camping in the Svaneti region, we could have staid for longer I dare to say.
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  • Bear

    21. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Time to spill the beans.
    We adopted a dog. "Bear" decided to become a travelling dog in Ushguli. We had just returned from lunch in one of the guesthouses, when he showed up with two more adult dogs at our car. As rain and a thunderstorm were approaching, the Kudliks and we had actually planned to leave and find a nice campspot straight away, but Bear made Tom and me stay a little longer. What a cutie!
    When Tom finally convinced me to leave, he ran after the car. And that was it. I persuaded Tom to take him along to see how he would cope with vanlife. We would return to the same spot the next day anyways, so if worst came to worst, the dog would be returned and no harm was done. And Tom said yes!
    Poor Bear went through a bumpy 20min car ride (probably the first in his life) until we reached the Kudliks' campspot in the nice valley behind Ushguli. However, Martin got me so scared, mentioning Bear probably would have a home already, that Tom, Bear and I turned around again to go to the village and find his owner.
    But no one there knew him. Instead, the guesthouse owners encouraged us to take him along, one less stray on the road. Just in case, I left my number behind so that I could be contacted if someone missed him. 3hrs later, we returned to the campspot with the dog. Bear took the drive much better this time and simply snuggled up on my lap.
    From then onwards, he is simply the best puppy ever! He tells us if he has to go out at night, he walks on a lead, he doesn't mind driving, he hasn't chewed on anything he wasn't supposed to yet, he behaved awesomely at the vet and in the city and and and.
    Long story short, I think he chose us to be his family and I couldn't be happier! Thank you Bear for being part of our life now!
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  • Camping in a castle - a princess tale?

    24. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This must be one of the most extraordinary campspots on our trip.
    After saying goodbye to the mountains and a relaxed drive down, the Kudliks had found this spot for us. Originally heading for a closeby river (we're all drawn to water), they had been stopped by a border post who couldn't let them go further. The border post was right next to Rukhi Castle and we find the family parked next to a smaller river between the post and the ruins.
    Upon arrival, Martin quickly suggests to park inside the castle. A kind of narrow entrance gate leads into what might have been the marketplace, surrounded by the walls, just underneath the remnants of the old fortress. The pigs and cows grazing inside seem inviting and so we drive in.
    How beautiful this place is! Surprisingly, it stays quiet for the whole duration of our stay, no one minds us being inside and the cows, wild dogs and pigs remain pleasant company.
    Is this how the former inhabitants experienced their life here as well? It might have been utterly different, but we certainly feel like Kings and Queens for one night.
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  • Random observations in Georgia

    24. lokakuuta 2019, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We staid in Georgia for 30days! The longest time we've spent in one country during this journey so far. Quite interesting, considering the country's size. But there is simply so much to do and see. If it didn't get cold, we could easily have staid longer, too, I think.
    Anyhow, spending this many days in one country, allowed us to dig a little deeper than usual. Here is a few observations we've made:

    There are thousands of stray dogs around. In touristy areas, they usually rely on the visitors for food and they're super used to humans and being loved. We've learned of several dogs that accompany hikers for the day, making their excursion even more fun (we had one of them, too). Big, small, bred dogs or mixes, they come in every color, shape and temperament. All of them had a big heart!
    In not so touristy areas the dogs were usually curious, but super shy as well. At one hostel we were told that the strays find it hard to survive the winter as all summer they were fed by tourists and in winter, there is simply not enough food to keep on sharing with them. Heartbreaking! Hence, it's great that there are several organizations and government initiatives working to control the population. Dogs that roam around freely, but are chipped in their ear, have been vaccinated and neutered, in order to prevent further reproduction. In general, the human population likes their strays, too, and mostly the dogs are well looked after. If only they had a home, too.

    The other omnipresent animal around are pigs. They mostly roam around freely, some have a wooden triangle around their neck, probably to keep them from entering fenced areas. Super cute!

    But not only animals can be seen. We've noticed a lot of properties have benches in front of their yards, and every so often neighbours meet here to sit together and have a chat. A tradition that should be practiced everywhere in my opinion. People connecting.

    When looking at those properties, I also noticed that very often there is a big house and a small house right next to it, featuring the same style. Is this modern multi generation families having found a way to live together? Or is it remnants of a wealthy family in the big house and their servants in the smaller one? I really can't tell and unfortunately we didn't get a chance to ask anyone, so this will remain a mystery.

    Georgians love to drink wine. Supposedly their winemaking goes back 8000years. Qvevri, the natural wine, would be a huge hit back in Australia! And not only big scale wine is sold on the market. As you don't need a special license to sell alcohol, homemade wine is sold on every corner. Almost every house has its own grapes growing in the yard. Fascinating!

    Georgia also features many many churches (most of them dedicated to their patron St. George or the female saint Nino). The churches or monasteries are usually picturesquely built on clifftops or next to water sources and are super beautiful to look at. Same applies to the castle/fortress ruins that are dotted along the countryside.

    But not only are there castle ruins. The Soviet era created massive buildings that are now unused and slowly decaying. Family houses have been left to rot as well. Was it too expensive to maintain? Or did the owners move to the city and simply couldn't sell it? Hard to tell, but I'd happily renovate some of these houses and move there in a heartbeat.

    In terms of traffic, many Georgians drive like maniacs. Seeing that many cars without a front bumper really wasn't surprising anymore after a few days of driving.

    Last but not least, here is an interesting fact concerning the Tusheti area only: as many sacred sites are built following either a male or female principle and it shouldn't be unbalanced, please don't be offended by "no women" signs. It's age-old tradition and not meant to annoy anyone. We didn't see the same anywhere else in Georgia, but being considerate when visiting any religious site is highly recommended anywhere in the world.
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