Nairobi to Mombasa

Another early start today and we're wondering if we'll ever get a lie in on this trip. This morning we are taking the train from Nairobi to Mombasa, a 5 hour journey. We decide to sit in the standard class with our new Australian friends, Sof and Clay, as we all didn't want to dish out 3x the price for a first class ticket. The receptionist at the hostel who kindly books the tickets for us lets us know there is a mandatory booking fee we have to pay extra for. We're happy to pay as we're booking the tickets incredibly last minute. It's only later we find out when booking our return ticket that there is no extra booking fee. Oh well.

Before getting on the train, we have to pass through airport-style security. Chris is taken to the side and asked about the swiss-army knife that he has inside. The security guard suggests that he can hold it here for us, on the condition that we bring him back something nice from Mombasa. He then changes his mind and says that Chris can keep it now. "How much is it worth?", he asks. Chris tells him that it's worth about $20. "Well if you put 2000 KSh in your bag, you might find your swiss knife has been returned." Chris grabs the money, and plunges it to the bottom of his bag. The security then rifles through the contents, and returns the luggage. Sure enough, the penknife is where Chris left the money.

The train ride is fairly hot and goes by pretty slowly. But we pass time along the way spotting big game in Tsavo National Park which the train tracks somehow go through. We spot red elephants which are native to the park and think we see some camels as well. We try to double check but the train is going by too fast. We decide that we definitely saw some camels.

Stepping out of the train terminal we are confronted by the heat wave of Mombasa. Hot and sticky we say our goodbyes to the Aussies who are headed towards Diani Beach and we board our first matatu (shared bus-taxi) to the centre. We are awarded the last two seats on the bus and struggle to not hit any of the other passengers with our luggage. It's safe to say we definitely said sorry to far too many people on the bus that day.

We've heard good things about Mombasa. But to be honest, those people are wrong. Our hostel, as recommended by Lonely Planet, consisted of a large room with spartan beds not covered by mosquito nets - a problem that is highlighted to us as large swarms of mosquitoes fly through the broken windows and prison style iron barred door. The bathroom was additionally shared with staff who took suspiciously long showers. At least it's only for one night.

We decide to leave our charming hostel and venture into the streets to see what the hype was about Mombasa. After walking less than 100 metres we're approached by a man who asks us for money for medicine. We politely say no and try to part ways but not before he attempts to show Chris what he needs medicine for by unzipping his fly. Back to the hostel it is!

We spend the evening watching the sunset over the roof. Overhead are millions of bats flying around the harbour which is quite mesmerising. Still, we can't wait to get on the road again tomorrow.Read more