Wandering the Guna Village

After a destination lecture that made it sound like we were on assignment for National Geographic, the reality of visiting Garti Island came as a pleasant surprise.

The villagers were friendly and relaxed. Sure, they live much differently than we do, but the vibe here was festive rather than desperate.

The Guna have their own language and most do not speak English. Many speak Spanish, however, so this gave Larry and me a chance to practice.

We soon learned that ships visit Garti Island roughly once a week. They are quite used to tourists, so our arrival was probably not exposing them to new microbes. In fact, everyone seemed well dressed, well fed, and cell phones abounded.

I saw a handwritten sign for an English speaking guide who was available to explain Guna culture. Sadly, he was nowhere to be found. Guess someone else nabbed him first! We also managed to miss the museum, despite a thorough wander through the labyrinth of shacks.

We did come across a makeshift cafe, however, where beer, water, and cokes went for $2 each. (Interesting that the preferred currency is US dollars.)

I never drink Coca Cola at home, but it’s become a game for Larry and I to imbibe this sugary soda in exotic locales. So far, we’ve had cokes in Buenos Aires, Komodo Island, Bangkok, and now Garti Island.

By then, we were dripping with sweat, so the ice cold fizz really hit the spot. There’s no air conditioning on Garti, although the way the alleys are arranged creates a nice airflow. I’m sure it was no mistake that people gathered at the breeziest corners.

At one point it rained, but the downpour was light and only lasted about ten minutes. No one bothered to take their wares inside, although a few people covered their heads.

I was surprised to see that the Guna people’s flag features a swastika. Swastikas are an ancient symbol, used by Hindis, Buddhists, and Native Americans long before Hitler came along.

In the Guna’s case, the swastika represents the octopus who created the world, with its tentacles pointing to the four points of the compass. Another interpretation leaves out the octopus and has the swastika symbolizing the four directions of the world from which humans originated.

The Guna are a healthy group, as well, with remarkably low blood pressure, even as they age. As a result, they have low rates of heart disease, and also low rates of cancer.

For some unknown reason, albinism is common among the Guna, which earned them the nickname of “White Indians.”

In centuries past, these albinos had a holy status. Only they were allowed to venture out during lunar eclipses. Only they could defend the tribe by shooting arrows at the dragon devouring the moon!

When I was little, my big sister told me of a faraway tribe in a distant land where warriors shot arrows at the moon during lunar eclipses. Never did I expect to travel to that faraway land and actually meet those tribal people, and yet today I’ve done exactly that!Read more