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apr. 2024 – aug. 2025

April 2024

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    I dag

    Mindelo - Cape Verde Islands

    26. april 2024, Kap Verde ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Cesária Évora is the most famous singer from Mindelo and we saw her image all over town. Nicknamed the “Barefoot Diva” she sometimes performed without shoes and had a penchant for swigging alcohol onstage.

    Cesária Évora often sang in the local Cape Verdean Creole, and her style is sometimes compared to Edith Piaf and Billie Holiday.

    Cape Verde is known for its unique music, (which is a story I’ll share elsewhere) but we weren’t in port late enough to catch the local scene.

    That said, I’m not sure how safe it would be to hang out in Mindelo at night as a foreigner. Poverty is rampant, beggars plentiful, and every store has staff on watch for shoplifters. As for living off the land, locals can catch fish, but the island is so rocky that little grows.

    As you can see, we ran into our choir teacher, Thiago, while out and about. We let him know that the Portuguese phrases he taught us came in handy today. Although they speak their own Creole, it varies from island to island and Portuguese is the official national language.
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  • Bright City - Dark Past

    18. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Ironically, the most brightly colored part of Salvador de Bahia has its darkest past. The Pelourinho neighborhood takes its name from the whipping post which once stood here.

    Until slavery was outlawed in 1888, this is where African slaves were bought, sold, and punished.

    Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, full of tourist shops.

    In 1996, Michael Jackson was filmed here for his song “They Don’t Really Care About Us.”

    Today, a cut out of “the King of Pop” still stands in the same balcony as he did in his music video.

    We didn’t go into the building, but it’s a popular photo stop for MJ fans. When I get back home, I plan to watch the video. It will be fun to see if we recognize any of the settings, since parts of the video were also filmed in Rio.
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  • Salvador Streets

    18. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    The city of Salvador in Brazil’s state of Bahia is a port town with steep hills. As a result there are two main sections to the city, the lower and the upper.

    An easy way to get from the bay level to the upper level is to take a special elevator called Lacerda. Unfortunately, it was broken when we visited, so we took a cab. (I wasn’t too sad, however, since I’m claustrophobic!)

    While it’s possible to walk between levels, it is not advised because, sadly, the crime rate is quite high in Salvador.

    In fact, several cruise ship passengers were mugged during our visit. One woman had her cell phone swiped while using a selfie stick. Another had a necklace snatched off her neck. Yet another had her arm cut when a mugger sliced her purse strap. Scary stuff! (Reminds me of South Africa, crime wise.)

    See the statues in the lake? They represent “Orishas” which are gods/saints in the Candomble religion.

    At first glance, they look like a group of women wearing dresses, but they are actually male and female figures wearing holy robes.

    Many Bahian’s ancestors were originally slaves brought over from Africa. A unique blend between their African traditions and Catholicism created a new religion called Candomble.

    I don’t know much about it, but syncretic religions intrigue me and I plan to learn more.
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  • Church of Colored Ribbons

    18. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Our cabbie, JCDS, took us to Salvador’s most beloved church: Basilica Santuario Senhor do Bonfim,

    The church is surrounded by a wrought iron fence that is completely covered in brightly covered cloth. These fluttering ribbons are called “fitas.”

    According to a tradition dating back to at least the early 1800s, these ribbons have the power to grant three wishes. You can wear the ribbon on your wrist, ankle, or tie it to the gate.

    In order to get the three wishes, you must tie three knots. After that, you must wait for the ribbon to fall off of its own accord. Only then, will your wishes be granted.

    As for the ribbons tied to the church gates; three or four times a year, they are burned in a special Catholic ceremony. Not only does this grant the wishes, but it makes way for more ribbons!

    A replica of Senhor Bonfim inside the church is believed to bestow special curative powers upon the faithful. Those seeking divine intervention leave wax replicas of ailing body parts and/or photograph as of themselves inside the “salsa do milagre” (room of miracles.)

    There’s also a fountain made of Carrara marble featuring a figure of Jesus pointing to Heaven with his right hand. His left arm is draped around a cross, while that hand holds a broken chain. To top it all off, Jesus is stands on a serpent.

    I love all the symbolism, of course, but I’ll save the details for a Patreon post rather than ramble on here!

    According to a nearby plaque, the sculptor’s name has been lost to history.
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  • A Local Saint

    18. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Although our taxi driver didn’t speak much English, and our Portuguese is minimal and tinged with Spanish, Larry and I communicated quite well with our cabbie in Salvador.

    I’m embarrassed to admit, however, that I never quite caught his name. When we first asked, he rattled off a lengthy moniker, something like, “Juan Jose Carlo da Silva.”

    “Can we call you Juan?” Larry asked.

    “No, I’m Juan Jose Carlo da Silva,” he replied. So we left it at that.

    The first place JCDS took us was a shrine to a local saint, “St. Irma Dulce of the Poor.”

    Not only was St Irma Dulce born in Salvador, but she is the first saint to be born in Brazil. She was beatified in 2011.

    From what our cabbie told us, St Irma Dulce dedicated her life to caring for poor people.

    While the body of St. Dulce is in a box tomb, an effigy of her lies inside a display case on top of it.

    I barely had time to snap a few photos before JCDS whisked us of to the “room of miracles” which was full of ex votos and other testaments to miracles attested to the workings of St. Irma Dulce.

    Afterwards, we took a quick peek into the gift shop. There is a cafe, too, but we weren’t ready for a coffee break yet.

    As we continued our tour through Salvador, I saw numerous street murals depicting St. Irma Dulce along the way.
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  • K-Rioca Samba Show

    15. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    The K-Rioca Samba show put on an “ass-tounding” performance for our ship while we were in Rio de Janeiro. Sorry! I couldn’t resist making that pun because the women’s costumes were cheeky in the most literal sense.

    I was amazed how well those ladies could maneuver in high heels and massive headdresses. The buns were bouncing, I tell ya!

    The name “K-Rioca” is a play on words since denizens of Rio call themselves “cariocas.”

    I’e never experienced carnival in Rio, but the intense percussion rhythms and energetic dancing of this samba troop gave us a little taste.
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  • Rio Street Scenes

    15. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    After our jaunt through the rain forest, we took the scenic route home. It was late afternoon on a weekday, so both of Rio’s famed beaches (Ipanema and Copacabana) were fairly empty.

    Our guide explained that downtown Rio is crime ridden because no one lives there. At night, it’s especially dangerous to wander around.

    I included a photo of motorbikes because of the antenna. Do you know what that’s for? It’s not for any sort of reception. The reason people have antennae’s on their scooters and motorbikes is to protect themselves from errant kite strings.

    In Rio, competitive kite flying is a thing, and people sometimes add broken glass to their kite strings. Bikers can be severely injured or even killed if they stumble into these kite strings. Isn’t that crazy?

    The “use mascara” sign made us laugh!

    And I never did find out why the logo on the police station features a snake smoking a pipe, but that’s yet another item for this trip’s “to be researched.”

    Even though it looks nicer when covered in ivy, the amount of barbed wire in Rio reminds me a bit of South Africa.
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  • Tijuca Rainforest

    15. april 2024, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    On other visits to Rio de Janeiro, we’ve toured the city. This time, we decided to visit the Tijuca Rain Forest, a lush green space that runs through the outskirts of town.

    Homes that existed before the land was set aside as a refuge are grandfathered in. People still live there.

    Another oddity are all the elegant Carrara marble bathtubs scattered throughout the pathways.

    We didn’t see any sloths, alas, but we bumped into a family of coatimundis. Are they ever cute!

    We also encountered a couple black capuchin monkeys. I’m always very cautious around monkeys, but these guys merely seemed curious about us.
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  • Rainbows & Barfbags

    10. april 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    When the seas are rough, cruise ships often hang little pouches with barf bags in them on railings throughout the ship.

    Larry and I are lucky, however. He never gets seasick, and I almost never do.

    Today, however, I made the mistake of looking at some videos on our friend’s phone during dinner and it made me so queasy that I had to leave early.
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  • Cape Town Dancers

    10. april 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    A local marimba band and dance troop performed for us in Cape Town.

    The dancers are wearing traditional Zulu outfits, which in the old days, would not have included those black leotards.

  • World’s Most Isolated Island

    10. april 2024, Sankt Helena ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Tristan da Cunha bills itself as, “the most remote island in the world.”

    As you can see from the maps I’ve shared, it really is remote. Not a good place for a heart attack.

    Just saying…

    The island has a population of 238 people. And yes, they do have a cemetery!

    Despite emailing Tristan da Cunha’s tourism coordinator and making arrangements to visit the local cemetery and learn about their funeral customs from a local elder, it was not to be.

    Unfortunately, a big challenge when visiting small islands in the middle of the ocean is that they do not have docking facilities. This means the ship must anchor and ferry passengers ashore using its life boats.

    All too often, the waves are so rough that this isn’t possible, and that’s exactly what happened to us today.

    Last year, for example, we attempted to visit St Helena but the ocean swell was too big for us to go ashore. (Napoleon’s tomb is there, so you can imagine how disappointed I was!)

    So instead of going ashore, our ship circled the island while we wistfully gazed ashore.

    I had also been looking forward to seeing the island’s textiles. Citizens of Tristan da Cunha have their own brand of hand knitted garments called “37 Degrees South.”

    They also have a unique tradition of knitting “Love socks.” When a young man fancies a young lady, he visits her house. She, in turn, knits a pair of socks for him. The colored bands on the socks reveal a hidden message, letting him know if she wants to date him, or if she would rather be “friends forever.”

    While I’m disappointed that we were unable to go ashore, at least we got close. Next time!
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  • Barbed Wire & Baboons

    5. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    This first photo visually sums up South Africa: beautiful scenery and high crime rates.

    Check out the pretty lamp in the next picture: it’s surrounded by cctv cameras. Nearly every home has cctv monitoring as well as electric fencing, concertina wire, and signs proclaiming that an “armed response team” will come if the alarm goes off.

    According to our guide, the number of homeless has grown exponentially since the Covid pandemic.

    I’m not sure what the deal is with the hookah place. Is pot legal here? I dunno. It did crack me up to see all the UberEats motorbikes parked beside it, as if ready to deliver when folks get the munchies.

    As our tour bus left Cape Town, the countryside was beautiful. But look closely, every time you see a cluster of homes, there is an electrified fence around it, with cctv monitored perimeters.

    At the outskirts of Simon’s Cove, we saw a street sign warning of baboons. Our guide explained that residents cannot leave their windows open.

    “If they do, the baboons will enter and trash the place.”

    As if to illustrate her point, we saw a few baboons shortly after she told us this. One sat on a wall eating from a bag of cookies. Another drank from a puddle, while a couple more hopped from rooftop to rooftop, trying to find a way inside.
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  • Cruise Ship Collision

    5. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Cape Town’s nickname is “the Windy City” and it certainly lived up to that moniker today!

    Despite two tugboats, the breeze got the best of our ship as we were docking this morning. The stern smacked into the dock and the bow slid up against a cargo ship called the Grey Fox.

    Luckily, the damage is slight and our cruise will continue.
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  • African Penguins

    4. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    To further compensate for missing out on the cable car ride, our tour bus took a detour to Simon’s Cove, where we visited a colony of African penguins.

    It’s our second visit here, but I’m not complaining! To keep humans from disturbing the nesting sites, there’s a wooden boardwalk. It’s a good arrangement.

    This time around, not only did we see the adorable birds, but we also saw a rock hyrax shyly nibbling some grass in the shadows.

    Fun fact about the rock hyrax: they are related to elephants!

    As our bus pulled away, I noticed a pair of penguins wandering around the parking lot. I sure hope they found their way back to the beach and stayed out of traffic!
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  • Cape Town Views

    4. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    In Cape Town, it was too breezy to take cable cars up to Table Top Mountain so our bus took us up to an overlook, instead.

    While enjoying the views, we noticed a sign warning people to stay in groups of at least four for safety’s sake. That’s South Africa for ya!Læs mere

  • Ushaka Sealand Aquarium

    2. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Larry and I have visited aquariums all over the world, but Durban’s may well be my favorite!

    The tanks at UShaka Sealife Aquarium are located in a rusty old ship, and the decor inside makes you feel like you’re at sea. There’s even a spot where you can peek in and see all the machinery required to keep the tanks working.

    The screens offer info appropriate for all ages, so everyone can learn here. The “Local is Lekker” sign made me laugh. “Lekker” is Dutch for tasty. I was able to understand much of the Afrikaans signage due to its Dutch foundations.

    My favorite aquarium exhibit was “The Parlor” which featured a chandelier over a table set for a tea party. Gorgeous lionfish waft through the tank. At times, it looked as though they were part of the chandelier.

    I have mixed feelings about captive cetaceans, but we watched the dolphin show anyway. All in all, we enjoyed our time at Ushaka Sealife Aquarium, and we felt safe there, as well, which is a prime concern in South Africa.

    You can even go snorkeling here, which came as a surprise when we suddenly saw swimmers inside the display tanks! If we’re ever in Durban again, I’d like to try that.
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  • We ate Bunny Chow

    2. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    During Apartheid, Indian immigrants who worked on plantations were often forbidden from eating in Durban’s cafes.

    As a result, they carried curry lunches to the fields by putting the meals inside of hollowed out bread loaves.

    Although I came across several different theories, it’s not quite clear how this concoction gained the name Bunny Chow.

    In any case, the name stuck, and these days, “Bunny Chow” is served in restaurants and eaten by Durbans from all walks of life.

    Larry and I enjoyed a 1/4 portion of Bunny Chow along with a Pepsi for the equivalent of $6 US. (And while Coca Cola reins supreme in most places we visit, Pepsi is the main cola in South Africa.)

    Since our server told us that mutton bunny was her favorite, we gave it a try. I love curry, and this was quite tasty, with just enough spice to make our noses run.

    Afterwards, we enjoyed iced coffee at a cute little joint called Only Coffee that was right around the corner from Durban Curry Cafe.
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  • Walking Around Durban

    1. april 2024, Sydafrika ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    Of all the ports Larry and I have ever visited, Durban has the dubious distinction of being the most dangerous.

    When we visited last year, more guests were mugged here than any other place we’ve been. And I do mean mugged, not just pickpocketed. Many of these crimes happened in broad daylight and within sight of the ship.

    So it was with some trepidation that we decided to hoof it to the local aquarium. In any other city, a ten-minute walk would be no big deal, but in Durban we were on high alert.

    According to my map, the quickest path was a left onto Mahatma Gandhi Boulevard, but we’d only taken a few steps before a security guard stepped out of the shadows and said, “No.”

    “We can’t walk down this street?” I said, incredulous. It looked like the safest option to me. After all, it was a busy street immediately in front of the port and it was named after Gandhi, of all people.

    “No, no. Go there,” said the guard, gesturing us down a two lane street. Only then did we notice guards at every corner along the way.

    I guess that’s how Durban is dealing with its crime wave, using tourist police to shepherd us from the port to the beach and the aquarium.

    Along the way, we passed a canal with an inviting pathway beside it. We stuck to the street, however, because a sign warned that the canal was unguarded and therefore pedestrians strolled there at their own risk.

    We later heard from a guide that unemployment in South Africa reached 65% during the Covid lockdown. To put things in perspective, the unemployment rate was 24% in the USA during the Great Depression. This same guide went on to say that SA’s unemployment rate had dropped to 30%, but that’s still so much higher than other places in the world.

    I don’t claim to know how to cure South Africa’s economic woes, but it’s certainly interesting to visit and observe.
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