April 2024

April - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Tui Snider Read more
Currently traveling
  • 19footprints
  • 4countries
  • 32days
  • 208photos
  • 0videos
  • 9.9kmiles
  • 8.6ksea miles
  • Day 1

    Walking Around Durban

    April 1 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    Of all the ports Larry and I have ever visited, Durban has the dubious distinction of being the most dangerous.

    When we visited last year, more guests were mugged here than any other place we’ve been. And I do mean mugged, not just pickpocketed. Many of these crimes happened in broad daylight and within sight of the ship.

    So it was with some trepidation that we decided to hoof it to the local aquarium. In any other city, a ten-minute walk would be no big deal, but in Durban we were on high alert.

    According to my map, the quickest path was a left onto Mahatma Gandhi Boulevard, but we’d only taken a few steps before a security guard stepped out of the shadows and said, “No.”

    “We can’t walk down this street?” I said, incredulous. It looked like the safest option to me. After all, it was a busy street immediately in front of the port and it was named after Gandhi, of all people.

    “No, no. Go there,” said the guard, gesturing us down a two lane street. Only then did we notice guards at every corner along the way.

    I guess that’s how Durban is dealing with its crime wave, using tourist police to shepherd us from the port to the beach and the aquarium.

    Along the way, we passed a canal with an inviting pathway beside it. We stuck to the street, however, because a sign warned that the canal was unguarded and therefore pedestrians strolled there at their own risk.

    We later heard from a guide that unemployment in South Africa reached 65% during the Covid lockdown. To put things in perspective, the unemployment rate was 24% in the USA during the Great Depression. This same guide went on to say that SA’s unemployment rate had dropped to 30%, but that’s still so much higher than other places in the world.

    I don’t claim to know how to cure South Africa’s economic woes, but it’s certainly interesting to visit and observe.
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  • Day 2

    We ate Bunny Chow

    April 2 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    During Apartheid, Indian immigrants who worked on plantations were often forbidden from eating in Durban’s cafes.

    As a result, they carried curry lunches to the fields by putting the meals inside of hollowed out bread loaves.

    Although I came across several different theories, it’s not quite clear how this concoction gained the name Bunny Chow.

    In any case, the name stuck, and these days, “Bunny Chow” is served in restaurants and eaten by Durbans from all walks of life.

    Larry and I enjoyed a 1/4 portion of Bunny Chow along with a Pepsi for the equivalent of $6 US. (And while Coca Cola reins supreme in most places we visit, Pepsi is the main cola in South Africa.)

    Since our server told us that mutton bunny was her favorite, we gave it a try. I love curry, and this was quite tasty, with just enough spice to make our noses run.

    Afterwards, we enjoyed iced coffee at a cute little joint called Only Coffee that was right around the corner from Durban Curry Cafe.
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  • Day 2

    Ushaka Sealand Aquarium

    April 2 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Larry and I have visited aquariums all over the world, but Durban’s may well be my favorite!

    The tanks at UShaka Sealife Aquarium are located in a rusty old ship, and the decor inside makes you feel like you’re at sea. There’s even a spot where you can peek in and see all the machinery required to keep the tanks working.

    The screens offer info appropriate for all ages, so everyone can learn here. The “Local is Lekker” sign made me laugh. “Lekker” is Dutch for tasty. I was able to understand much of the Afrikaans signage due to its Dutch foundations.

    My favorite aquarium exhibit was “The Parlor” which featured a chandelier over a table set for a tea party. Gorgeous lionfish waft through the tank. At times, it looked as though they were part of the chandelier.

    I have mixed feelings about captive cetaceans, but we watched the dolphin show anyway. All in all, we enjoyed our time at Ushaka Sealife Aquarium, and we felt safe there, as well, which is a prime concern in South Africa.

    You can even go snorkeling here, which came as a surprise when we suddenly saw swimmers inside the display tanks! If we’re ever in Durban again, I’d like to try that.
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  • Day 4

    Cape Town Views

    April 4 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    In Cape Town, it was too breezy to take cable cars up to Table Top Mountain so our bus took us up to an overlook, instead.

    While enjoying the views, we noticed a sign warning people to stay in groups of at least four for safety’s sake. That’s South Africa for ya!Read more

  • Day 4

    African Penguins

    April 4 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    To further compensate for missing out on the cable car ride, our tour bus took a detour to Simon’s Cove, where we visited a colony of African penguins.

    It’s our second visit here, but I’m not complaining! To keep humans from disturbing the nesting sites, there’s a wooden boardwalk. It’s a good arrangement.

    This time around, not only did we see the adorable birds, but we also saw a rock hyrax shyly nibbling some grass in the shadows.

    Fun fact about the rock hyrax: they are related to elephants!

    As our bus pulled away, I noticed a pair of penguins wandering around the parking lot. I sure hope they found their way back to the beach and stayed out of traffic!
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  • Day 5

    Cruise Ship Collision

    April 5 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Cape Town’s nickname is “the Windy City” and it certainly lived up to that moniker today!

    Despite two tugboats, the breeze got the best of our ship as we were docking this morning. The stern smacked into the dock and the bow slid up against a cargo ship called the Grey Fox.

    Luckily, the damage is slight and our cruise will continue.
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  • Day 5

    Barbed Wire & Baboons

    April 5 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    This first photo visually sums up South Africa: beautiful scenery and high crime rates.

    Check out the pretty lamp in the next picture: it’s surrounded by cctv cameras. Nearly every home has cctv monitoring as well as electric fencing, concertina wire, and signs proclaiming that an “armed response team” will come if the alarm goes off.

    According to our guide, the number of homeless has grown exponentially since the Covid pandemic.

    I’m not sure what the deal is with the hookah place. Is pot legal here? I dunno. It did crack me up to see all the UberEats motorbikes parked beside it, as if ready to deliver when folks get the munchies.

    As our tour bus left Cape Town, the countryside was beautiful. But look closely, every time you see a cluster of homes, there is an electrified fence around it, with cctv monitored perimeters.

    At the outskirts of Simon’s Cove, we saw a street sign warning of baboons. Our guide explained that residents cannot leave their windows open.

    “If they do, the baboons will enter and trash the place.”

    As if to illustrate her point, we saw a few baboons shortly after she told us this. One sat on a wall eating from a bag of cookies. Another drank from a puddle, while a couple more hopped from rooftop to rooftop, trying to find a way inside.
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  • Day 10

    World’s Most Isolated Island

    April 10 in Saint Helena ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Tristan da Cunha bills itself as, “the most remote island in the world.”

    As you can see from the maps I’ve shared, it really is remote. Not a good place for a heart attack.

    Just saying…

    The island has a population of 238 people. And yes, they do have a cemetery!

    Despite emailing Tristan da Cunha’s tourism coordinator and making arrangements to visit the local cemetery and learn about their funeral customs from a local elder, it was not to be.

    Unfortunately, a big challenge when visiting small islands in the middle of the ocean is that they do not have docking facilities. This means the ship must anchor and ferry passengers ashore using its life boats.

    All too often, the waves are so rough that this isn’t possible, and that’s exactly what happened to us today.

    Last year, for example, we attempted to visit St Helena but the ocean swell was too big for us to go ashore. (Napoleon’s tomb is there, so you can imagine how disappointed I was!)

    So instead of going ashore, our ship circled the island while we wistfully gazed ashore.

    I had also been looking forward to seeing the island’s textiles. Citizens of Tristan da Cunha have their own brand of hand knitted garments called “37 Degrees South.”

    They also have a unique tradition of knitting “Love socks.” When a young man fancies a young lady, he visits her house. She, in turn, knits a pair of socks for him. The colored bands on the socks reveal a hidden message, letting him know if she wants to date him, or if she would rather be “friends forever.”

    While I’m disappointed that we were unable to go ashore, at least we got close. Next time!
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  • Day 10

    Cape Town Dancers

    April 10, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    A local marimba band and dance troop performed for us in Cape Town.

    The dancers are wearing traditional Zulu outfits, which in the old days, would not have included those black leotards.

  • Day 10

    Rainbows & Barfbags

    April 10, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    When the seas are rough, cruise ships often hang little pouches with barf bags in them on railings throughout the ship.

    Larry and I are lucky, however. He never gets seasick, and I almost never do.

    Today, however, I made the mistake of looking at some videos on our friend’s phone during dinner and it made me so queasy that I had to leave early.
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