March 2023

Circumnavigating South America! Les mer

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March 2023 Reisende
Tierra del Fuego Park
19. mars 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 39 °F
After our catamaran trip, we hopped a bus to Tierra del Fuego Park. Autumn is around the corner as you can tell by the colorful forest.

I enjoyed seeing many different birds, but only managed to get a photo of some geese.Les mer
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Two to TravelBeautiful fall colors. We’ve never been to Ushuaia this late in the season, perhaps we’ll add a few days there when we return to Ushuaia after our next Antarctic Expedition to see these colors for ourselves.
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ReisendeYes! I’d recommend it. Very pretty.
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March 2023 Reisende
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Blown away!
20. mars 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 46 °F
Ushuaia blew me away, literally and figuratively! The gusts along the dock were so strong that Larry and I linked arms for safety.

Patagonia is known for strong winds and in some towns there are railings for pedestrians to hold onto if a big one kicks up while they are walking. (I’ll share a photo later.)

Our ship was supposed to leave at 4 pm, but we had to wait until midnight, when the winds finally died down enough. Even then, the ship rocked and rolled all night.

Oh, did you hear about that ship that was struck by a rogue wave near Ushuaia in December 2022? The wave smashed several windows of the Viking Jupiter and one woman died.

We saw that ship yesterday. Larry was quick to spot the patch on the broken windows. I was reassured to see that the damaged ship is only 1/3 the size of ours, but still… Scary!Les mer
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Reisende Yikes…
27.03.2023SvarOversette
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March 2023 Reisende
Quest in Ushuaia
20. mars 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 46 °F
Our big quest in Ushuaia was to buy some toothpaste. We had fun wandering around the bustling town.

The population here has boomed ever since the Argentinian government began offering tax incentives and good wages to live here. In 1980, the population was 8,000. Today, it’s 80,000.

Although many shops had tourists bait, the town definitely caters to locals, as well.

The thermos you see on the windowsill is hot water for the mug of mate beside it. Mate is definitely the drink of choice in Argentina. I even saw street vendors selling thermoses of it.

I like the sign suggesting that people should walk like penguins when it’s snowy. Good advice!

As for the bumblebee, my good deed for the day was moving him from the sidewalk to a grassy spot.

And yes, we scored some toothpaste along the way.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Mega Meat Eaters!
20. mars 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 46 °F
One thing we’ve noticed about people in Argentina and Chile is that they like their meat!

See that pile of meat on the table? That’s all just for that guy. Sure hope they offer doggie bags…
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March 2023 Reisende
Tip of South America
22. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌧 45 °F
Today we passed by Cabo Froward, which is the southernmost point of the South American mainland. Cabo Froward is located on the Strait of Magellan a little bit south of Punta Arenas. (Ushuaia is farther south, but it is on the Island of Tierra del Fuego.)

At the top of the cape stands the Cruz de los Mares, which is a large metal cross. The first cross was erected here in 1913, but every now and then it needs to be replaced due to the stormy weather.

The one we saw today was placed here in 1987 in honor of Pope John Paul’s visit that year to Chile.

I was excited to see Cabo Froward. So glad we passed by during the day and that visibility was good.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
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Wind & Rainbows
23. mars 2023, South Pacific Ocean
It was a day of wind and rainbows here at the end of the world!

We weren’t able to visit Punta Arenas today because it was so windy. The local authorities closed the port.

Some of our friends feel a little quest from the rough seas, but luckily Larry and I feel fine.Les mer
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ReisendeGlad to hear
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Reisende 🤩what an amazing shot!
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Reisende Oy!!!
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March 2023 Reisende
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Pink Seas
23. mars 2023, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 41 °F
I sure appreciate our window seat at dinner. Tonight’s view was spectacular! Every few minutes the lighting would change. And then, just in time for dessert, the sea turned pink. What a feast for the eyes!Les mer
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Reisende WOW....
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Reisende What Beauty !!
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Reisende Gorgeous
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March 2023 Reisende
Amalia Glacier
24. mars 2023, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F
After a couple rough days and nights, we had a smooth sail up the fjord leading to the Amalia Glacier.

So pretty! We saw so many seals and seabirds along the way. As we neared the glacier, the water changed color to a milky green.

The captain anchored near the glacier, so everyone enjoyed the sight. He had the best view of all, however, since he and a video crew took a tender quite close to the mass of ice.

The weather for this outing was marvelous. One of those days where you feel like the fresh air nourishes you with every breath.Les mer
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Two to TravelWasn’t it an amazing glacier. I’ve seen a lot of rivers of ice and they continue to impress me each time I see a new one. Your weather was better than ours.
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March 2023 Reisende
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Puerto Chacabuco
25. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F
We had a pleasant time roaming around the seaside village of Chacabuco, petting great big dogs, happy cats, and chatting with friendly locals.

The flora here reminds me a lot of the Seattle area. I knew the name of nearly every plant we saw: clover, dock, calendula, columbines, etc. Most of the roses were old world, roses that still smell like roses. (I’m sure Shakespeare would approve!)

There was a small crafts market near the ship. I bought a loose-knit cardigan from the woman who made it. It’s lightweight enough that I’ll be able to wear it in Texas and have pleasant memories of this beautiful day.Les mer
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Reisende That cat looks like Rocky!
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March 2023 Reisende
Puerto Montt
26. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F
We had a nice time roaming around Puerto Montt on this bright, sunny day. Even though it’s Sunday, the local crafts market was open.

Beyond that, the little town was a good place for bird watching as I mentioned in another post.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Chilean Mystery Bird
26. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F
I saw some beautiful birds today: grebes, cormorants, and even a pair of black necked swans.

The species in these photos, however, is a real puzzler. At first I thought it was a solitary raptor, but as we walked along the seaside park, I saw several of them.

What makes it strange is that they look like raptors, but they hang out in flower beds. At one point, I saw one run out and eat a beetle.

I searched lists of birds for this area, but no luck. There were a few pigeons and doves in the flowerbeds, too, and they did not seem worried by these raptors.

Very strange!

UPDATE: Thanks to my friend, Heidi, on Facebook, I figured out that this bird is a Chimanga Caracara. They are a type of falcon that behaves just as I described here.Les mer
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Two to TravelCheck out Tiuque … Chimango Caracara. Seems like it might be that bird.
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ReisendeI think that’s it! Thank you! Such a cool bird.
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ReisendeI can ask my sis in law(from San Bernardo, Chile) if you would like. Just shoot me a text
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ReisendeSeems like a Chimango Caracara. Really cool bird! Thank you.
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March 2023 Reisende
So many dolphins!!!
28. mars 2023, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F
Larry often jokes that I should be on a search and rescue team because I’m able to spot sea life so easily. What’s frustrating, though, is when I can’t point them out to others. Not so today…

Today was a treat! We’ve witnessed so much sea life: Dolphins, whales, seabirds, seals…

It started with whale spouts right after breakfast. The Shortly after, we traveled beside the largest pod of dolphins I’ve ever seen. It lasted for 20 minutes, judging by the time stamps on my photos.

It was fun to hear people’s joyful exclamations in other languages. I heard a lot of “mamma mias,” from the Italians and I noticed that they called the dolphins, “delfini panda,” aka “panda dolphins” since they were black and white.

Sadly, none of my photos are good enough to share. (I finally gave up and simply enjoyed the spectacle.)

However, the buffet serendipitously featured a dolphin ice sculpture today, so I’ll use that as the featured photo for this post, instead.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Windy Punta Arenas
28. mars 2023, South Pacific Ocean
There’s wind, and then there’s WIND!

In Patagonia, one of the strongest winds is called El Pampero, and it’s a big deal.

In 2019, we learned a lot about El Pampero when visiting Punta Arenas. I’m sharing some photos from that visit here, because this time around, it was too windy for us to stop there.

In 2019, we noticed handrails all over Punta Arenas. Our guide explained that these are for safety. He said people sometimes get stuck while walking in high winds. They hang onto the rails until they can be rescued!

As we exited the ship, there was a tunnel to shield us from wind followed by a handrail for support.

As for the photo of the shoeshine man, I simply thought it was cute that the local newspaper is called “El Pinguino.”Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Valparaiso
28. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
The ship’s included tour took us to the neighboring cities of Valparaiso and Vina Del Mar.

Our guide was nice, but a bit of a dud. We’ve had some wonderful guides on this voyage; the ones in Cyprus, Jordan, and Jerusalem are standouts in my mind. Why? Because they painted a picture of daily life in their countries. I came away with a deeper understanding.

This guy, alas, was armed with a few important historic dates, and he knew the names of several tree species, but that was it. We spent 90% of the ride in silence. Oh, well!
Win some, lose some.

My impressions of Valparaiso:
Steep streets with colorful houses stacked on top of each other. Graffiti and murals galore.

An abundance of gingerbread houses speaks of a Victorian Era heyday. Many neighborhoods seemed fire swept.

A condor-topped colonnade caught my eye. Wonder what the story is there? I also got a kick out of an energetic one-man band who played in the intersection for tips.

Our guide told us that Chileans revere copper, so it’s a popular material for buildings and artwork.

He also mentioned that Chile, which is shaped long and thin like a chile pepper, has 16 ethnic groups. I think the black and white figure in my photos is related to one of those ethnic groups, but I’ll have to look it up later.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Flower Clock
28. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
The cities of Valparaiso and Vina Del Mar are connected. Even so, it’s easy to tell when you’ve passed from one city into the next because the graffiti is suddenly replaced with an abundance of plants.

A green thumb seems just as mandatory here as a can of spray paint is in Valparaiso.

The centerpiece for Vina del Mar is a colorful clock made of flowers. Not only is the time accurate, but it has a functional second hand.

And, of course, a sleeping street dog finished up the scene.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Moai Museum
28. mars 2023, Chile
Included in Chile’s 16 ethnic groups are the people of Easter Island aka the Rapa Nui.

Sadly, when Larry and I visited Easter Island in 2019, the seas were too rough for us to disembark. For two days we circled the island, staring wistfully at the iconic stone statues lining the shore, wishing for calm seas that never came.

So we were happy to see this moai in Vina Del Mar. The Fonck Museum features items from Chile’s diverse ethnic groups.

We even saw a trio of shrunken heads. Yikes!
The second floor was dedicated to Chilean wildlife. I was especially taken aback by this giant armadillo.

We would have enjoyed more time there.Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
Fish Market & Seals
29. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
Our ship docked in San Antonio, so it was a 2 hour bus ride to Santiago. After spending so much time in transit yesterday, we decided to simply wander around the port town. Even though the WhatsInPort website said there was very little to do, simply taking a walk sounded better than sitting on a bus for hours.

Much to our surprise, there is a lovely seaside promenade leading to a charming fish market and a dock where sea lions enjoyed scraps tossed over by locals fishing on the pier.

Along the way, I bought some pan pipes and a recorder to add to my musical instrument collection.

The weather was in the 70s with a nice breeze. Wonderful walking weather and such a lovely day!Les mer
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March 2023 Reisende
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Seaside Memorial
29. mars 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
Another pleasant surprise for me in San Antonio was the collection of memorials along the promenade.

Ports sometimes feature a plaque with the names of those lost at sea, but I’d never seen anything like these. They remind me of roadside memorials for car accident victims that are a common feature around the world.

Fresh flowers and colorful pinwheels adorn many of these memorials, but my favorite sight was sea lions and seagulls lounging among the commemorative plaques.Les mer
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Reisende I love the sentiment inscribed on Bernardino’s memorial 💕
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March 2023 Reisende
Chile vs Texas Flag
29. mars 2023, Chile
Today we are in San Antonio. San Antonio, Chile. Not Texas. I say that because the Chilean flag looks so much like the Texan flag, that I keep doing double takes. I wonder why they look so similar, and which flag came first. Where’s Sheldon Cooper when you need him?Les mer
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