Emcelli

Sometimes it takes a really crummy day to realise that a change is needed. Our planned and advised route, chosen because of a lack of sane alternative, turns out to be a much busier and faster road than we had expected. By 11, a has-not-slept-enough Alice rebels. We decide, hesitantly, to try the unknown, despite impending rain. Five km later, as we pause, a passing farmer signals for us to follow him - he has grapes he wants to give us. He also advises (with some help from google translate) that the road ahead is “broken in the rain” and is adamant that we should go back. So that was a 10km detour for a large bag of freshly picked delicious grapes and an uplifting exchange with a kind farmer.

Back to the horrible main road. We climb in and out of rain, eventually reaching a bridge where our safe but noisy hard shoulder disappears. Alice just can’t bring herself to brave the traffic. Eventually Alain figures out that we may be able to cross below on rough tracks. There we find a muslim cemetery complete with washing area which has water, shelter and benches. The rain sets in and we pitch the tent in the field next door as the light drops. We snuggle down quickly, too tired to even cook.Read more